Saturday, February 28, 2009

Cannibals On The Porch

Writen by Jim Burnell

No, ghosts of the Donner Party have not started haunting my porch, nor have others of the human type I may have reference to. I am speaking of cannibals in the insect world of which there are many, but two in particuIar that make me stop and wonder. The first is waxy black with a small red hourglass on her abdomen. She dangles on a thin thread late on warm summer nights in doorways or dark corners waiting for the what ever comes her way. I am sure you guessed, it is the female black widow spider, (Latrodectus Mactans) that I am referring to, and she is no stranger to many porches and gardens around the world . Her potent neurotoxic venom is more deadly than a rattle snake, although the actual bite is less noticeable. But she is only one of the many cannibals waiting outside.

If you are lucky, your porch may attract a less deadly, human friendly cannibal, with lightning strike reflexes and human like characteristics. The adult praying mantis, of whom its been said, is the only insect able to swivel its head around 180 degrees. Mantis is the Greek word for prophet, and if you see one of these on your porch you are immediately impressed by its show of awareness and seeming lack of fear as it turns its head and watches you walk by. The praying mantis, also commonly called mantids, like the black widow, have a reputation of sexual cannibalism, in that the females are known for eating the males head after and sometimes during mating, which in truth only happens some of the time, however in the case of the mantids, the young nymphs emerging from their egg cases will begin to eat each other if another food source is not found within one or two days and they are kept caged together with no means of escape. They emerge from their eggs as tiny strings, one attached to the next, through a row of pin-sized holes in the egg. As the string grows longer they individually begin to unfold into tiny little creatures looking just like their parents, only wingless, stringy and weak, but able to walk or run to high ground, or I should say elevated branches and leaves as they seem to have an instinct to climb, like tiny infantry soldiers searching for a safe place to lie in wait for any soft bodied insect they can over-power while avoiding any large ants or meat bees which can easily carry them of at this age.

As a gardener and amateur entomologist I am naturally drawn to these two insects. In the case of the black widow, it is the possibility of a nasty bite, and a trip to the emergency room, which has always concerned me. In the case of the praying mantis, besides its mysterious fascination and pre-historic looks, it is its reputation as a beneficial insect for pest control that got my attention. Then I got a crazy idea about using the talents of the mantis to control the black-widow population by setting them out as sentinels on the porch and in the yard and so I went about gathering mantid egg cases from neighboring areas, "oothecas", as they are called, and began waiting for them to hatch, while I designed several cages which I thought appropriate. The first ootheca hatched in mid-April and I somehow missed it. I turned to look in the glass container as usual and there were over one-hundred little guys about five sixteenths of an inch long, running and jumping from branch to branch exploring the gallon container. They had all come from one egg case! Little did I know at that time what I was getting into as I tried to figure out how to get the other egg cases out of the container without half of the little guys escaping in the process. The first thing I realized was that I was going to need a good pair of glasses, and a lot of time and patience to journey into this insects world.

Since then four months have passed and since this is not the place for a novel, I will only share information, as it would relate to gardening and pest control. As for the black widow, we will just have to wait and see, but for once I would say that the "little prophet", lives up to the hype of its reputation as a good beneficial, provided certain procedures are taken.

Most beneficial insect companies recommend releasing your mantids immediately or just placing the egg cases out in the garden to hatch on their own. I would not recommend this as most of them will fall prey to other predatory insects at this age, as they do not get their wings till the end of their third month and their only defenses are camouflage and stealth during the first few days. If a colony of large ants track them down, the whole population from an egg case can become ant food in a few hours. It is better to wait three to four weeks before releasing them, letting them grow to between five eighths and three quarters of an inch, during this time they have learned a little self-defense from practicing with each other. This can be done very easily with a self-feeding ant proof cage that can be kept outdoors with very little maintenance and reused year after year. If this is done the survival rate will increase dramatically and many more mantids will be found protecting the garden later in the season. At this point you can release them strategically or randomly. If you want to target specific plants with a pest problem, you can release them every four inches apart or so and after they find a spot they like they will most likely stay in or near to that spot ranging no more than twelve inches or so contrary to popular belief. They will usually stay in that general area for several weeks until they can no longer find food, or until they become prey for meat bees, which constantly hover in search of a meal, and crafty spiders that sneak up from underneath and in a surprise attack inject their poison. Many times it may seem that they are gone and then several days later they are back again when all the time they were hiding right in front of you. Some of my outside mantids have stayed in the same place for two months. Do not expect miracles. If a pest infestation has already occurred it is most likely too late for these beneficials to be of much help. At this age they may eat only four or five aphids or small flies a day but they can survive on less and they will not eat if they are not hungry. They will also help control the mosquito population as I found out when I introduced a few mosquitoes into their cages. In fact there is the possibility of them being very effective for mosquito control if released in marshlands or around stagnant water.

As time goes by they will begin eating larger and more difficult prey. At about ninety days, give or take a day or two, after they have shed their last exoskeleton they will show their wings. It usually happens at night and in the morning, there they are, a beautiful set of wings. It seems like a small miracle the first time you see this happen. This is the easiest time to differentiate between the sexes and when the females start their domination although if you have the eyes of a child, or a good magnifying glass, the sexes can be determined by counting body segments at a very early age. This is also the point at which they start traveling about the yard, or flying over to the yard next door to look for a mate and search for larger prey like grasshoppers, crickets, cockroaches, moths, etc. They have now grown to between two and a half to three inches, and can no longer catch the smaller prey. Their hunting skills have developed into a form of art and they have reached their full potential The female now looks like a miniature version from the Jurassic period, with strong hooked arms and columns of sharp, tapered spikes. She can flare up her wings in defiance vibrating delicate webbing which extends to her body causing her to appear large and ferocious to any approaching threat. Most humans would step back upon seeing this display for the first time, kind of like hearing a rattlesnake when you are not expecting it. This is also the time when you might expect me to place them on the porch as sentinels to complete this experiment. Well I said in the beginning it was a crazy idea and I cannot find one black widow on the porch anyway, or in the yard. Besides, raising these wonderful creatures in captivity they have become like family pets some of which I have given names to and praise or scold according to their behavior. To subject one of my pets to a life or death battle with a black widow is no longer an option. I am sure they would not stay on the porch for more than a couple of days anyway, just long enough to say good bye and maybe scare off a few solicitors before flying off in the night to safely deposit their eggs and then face their deadliest of prey, the futile first frost.

Jim Burnell is a carpenter/cabinet maker and small business owner with a lifetime of varied hobbies from boat building to studying Zeno's paradox. Currently he is studying the effects of catnip on mosquitoes and other insects, the testing and raising of certain beneficial insects in the garden and in captivity, and simplifying certain gardening procedures in transplanting and cloning. For links to his other articles, journals and ideas he can be reached at his website: http://www.spreadtheworld.blogspot.com or e-mail jimbkayak@yahoo.com

Friday, February 27, 2009

Six Rose Diseases And How To Treat Them

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Roses are beautiful but can be a bit challenging to grow. There are many insects and diseases that can chip away at the health of your roses. He are six symptoms of disease in your roses and how to treat them.

1. Malformed young canes or canes that are stunted

this is a fungal disease which is called powdery mildew. It covers stems bods and leaves with a white powder that spreads in the breeze. The leaves will turn purple and curl. To treat this, spray with Benomyl or Funginex.

2. Black spots on leaves

Aptly named, this disease is usually referred to as black spot. These spots are circular and have fringed edges causing the leaves to yellow. To treat this you want to remove infected leaves and pick up any that have fallen around the plant. You can also buy artificial sprays to treat and prevent black spot.

3. Stunted or malformed flowers and leaves

Malformed leaves and flowers can be caused by spider mites. These little tiny mites can be green red or yellow and usually hang around on the underside of the leaves where they have a good old time sucking the juices. You can try applying Isotox or Orthene to help treat these little pests.

4. Blistered leaves

If you notice the underside of your roses leaves are blistered you may have the disease known as rust. Blisters are an orange red color in turn black in the fall. This disease can live throughout the winter and in spring when new sprouts formidable attack them. To treat this get rid of any leaves that are infected both on the plants and on the ground. Spray Funginex or Benomyl every seven to 10 days for treatment.

5. Flowers which are malformed or do not open

this is another problem with roses that can be caused by bugs called Thrips. These are fain brownish yellow bugs that have fringed wings and damage your plant by sucking the juices from the flower buds. To get rid of them you'll have to cut off the infested flowers. Malathion and Orthene may also be used to treat this problem.

6. Leaves that are weak and mottled or show tiny white webs underneath

here you may have a problem with aphids. These tiny blogs can be green and brown or red and often hang around in clusters under the leaves and flower buds where they suck juices. Try spraying with diazinon or malathion in on to get rid of them.

If you're roses to not have any of these pests or diseases but are still unhealthy looking you might want to look at the way you are fertilizing them. Roses are very hungry and do require fertilization. Talk to your local gardening store to find out what's best for your area.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://gardening.subjectmonster.com where you can learn more about all types of gardening including indoor gardening, container gardening and organic gardening. Get gardening tips to help improve your gardens today!

All About Gardening

Writen by Lisa Marx

Gardening is perhaps one of the best hobbies that a more laborious nature lover can take up. The reason why I choose to call this hobby laborious is because it surely does involve a good deal of physical activity. This hobby is not meant for those nature lovers who simply want to bask in the natural beauty that already exists. Rather it is an ideal pass time for those who want to make their own contribution to the nature.

In order to be successful in gardening one must have the following qualities: -

1.) Besides having a love for gardening you should also have the will and determination to pursue your hobby.

2.) You must be physically fit and agile. Laziness and gardening are anonymous to each other.

3.) Learn to exchange your ideas and information with like-minded people who can show an equal passion for gardening.

4.) Try laying your hands on almost any books, magazines or articles that can enhance your knowledge on gardening.

5.) Be prepared to invest a small amount of your earnings in purchasing the "Can't do without", gardening tools.

The world of gardening is wide and it has immense possibilities for those who want to explore it with the right zeal and enthusiasm. You can choose from indoor gardening, outdoor gardening, landscaping, cultivating exotic herbs, growing bonsais and thus the list is endless. However it is important to do a fair amount of research work before delving into any of the above fields. You should master up the art of choosing the right plants and also learn the techniques favorable for their productivity and growth.

Growing plants is not enough. Deciding where the plants should grow is also an important aspect of gardening. Nothing can be more distasteful than a garden which has color clashing flowers growing all around in a haphazardly manner. So be careful about allocating the plants their respective locations. Arrange the assortments of flowers in accordance with their heights, textures and colors so that they complement each other without diminishing the beauty of your garden.

Keep aside one day from the entire week to be your gardening day. Generally week -ends would be a good choice. On this day, equip your self with all the essential gardening tools and accessories and get down to your work. If you have children or friends who are equally interested in gardening call for their assistance. The more the merrier!

Once you are done for the day clean your tools well and store them in their right place. Be sure to maintain your gardening tools because well maintained tools can give you years of good performance. After all tools aren't something that you can afford to buy every week.

Whether you are an efficient gardener or not can be best proved by your garden itself. So stop twiddling your thumbs and put your green fingers to use. As far as gardening is concerned, if you have really put in hard work your efforts will never go futile.

Lisa Marx for http://www.gardening-information-online.com.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Planning Your Herb Garden The Right Way

Writen by Mary Hanna

This article is dedicated to planning a successful herb garden. If you have planted herb gardens in previous years this will help to revamp and refresh one already have.

Go to your Garden Center and see what herbs are available and suitable for your area. This is important if you are planning an outside herb garden. If you are planning an inside herb garden, since you control the atmosphere, you can choose whatever you like.

My suggestion here would be to select a theme for your herb garden. You can plant them for culinary, cosmetic, medicinal or fragrance use. Be realistic about your plants. Check your whole property to find the right spot. Look for sun or shade, type of soil, and how well the spot drains. These are all very import for picking the best place for your herb garden.

Once you have accomplished the above, pick your sunniest spot because herbs need a lot of sun (a good four top six hours daily). Be sure that the herb garden site is level and sheltered from wind. If your soil is a bit heavy ad lots of compost when preparing your site which will make the soil looser and help with drainage and texture.

Try to keep the herb garden close to the house to facilitate in picking the harvest and checking for troubles. If you can't find a suitable sunny spot plant them in a garden container that you can move around to follow the sun. (This movement is a bit time consuming but it pay off in the end).

Look at the rest of your gardens. Are they formal or informal? You will want your herb garden to complement your house and garden. Look in books or magazine to get some inspiration. If you are creating a formal herb garden you will need to plant in straight lines and geometric shapes framing them with low hedges and paths. A fountain, bench or topiary shrubs are almost always used as the main focal point. Arrange the layout around a central axis. Then plant one kind of herb in each block, go for bold color and texture. Be warned a formal garden is labor intensive and will be expensive.

In an informal herb garden you can plant more flowing, curved beds and walkways. Add flowers and shrubs for a really exciting look. This type of herb garden requires less initial work and will be easier and cheaper to maintain.

Now it's time to decide on which herbs to plant. The easy way is to make a list of the ones that follow your theme. Make up your wish list in three columns. Column one is the absolutely must have plants, Column two will be the ones that would be nice to have and Column three is oh well, not necessary. If you're just starting out do between 5-10 herbs, (depending on your space). This makes the herb gardening more manageable.

Know which herb plants or annual or perennial, and make a note of them so you won't forget. A small spiral notebook is a good place to make comments on the care of each of your herbs. Situate each plant according to height for maximum enjoyment of your herb garden.

Lastly keep them well feed and give them lots of love and you will a beautiful herb garden that is multi-purpose. You get to plant the herb garden, watch it flourish, and then you get to harvest it for whatever your purpose was: Culinary, Medicinal, Fragrance or Cosmetic.

Happy Planting!

Copyright © 2005 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and this resource box are unchanged.

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About the Author

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.GardeningLandscapingTips.com, http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com, and http://www.GourmetChefAtHome.com

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Drying Herbs

Writen by Doug Green

Now is the perfect time to harvest most herbs for fresh use as well as drying for winter use. This is extremely easy to do and quite a simple task. Select plants that are just ready to bloom as this is when the leaves contain the highest amounts of flavour. It is a really good idea to forcefully spray the plants daily with water to knock off any insects and clean the leaves of garden dirt or insect detritus. Never spray with chemicals before harvest.

Cut off the stems early in the morning before the leaves start growing (and releasing their oils naturally) to obtain the best flavours. Each plant can have up to one half of their leaves removed (cut the stems down by half). This pruning will give you ample herb leaves as well as stimulate the plant to produce more leaves. Naturally, this means you'll be able to get a second harvest later in the season.

I generally put all my stalks together and tie them with a shoelace or bit of string. Mine are all hung upside down from the ceiling in a warm spot (not over the air conditioning) so the leaves will dry without mildewing. Good air circulation is essential.

It may take several weeks and each herb's drying time will vary but the leaves will eventually become dry and crumbly to the touch. I generally put the herbs in a bag and knock them about to separate the leaves from the stems. Then I put the leaves in old glass sealer jars and store them in cool, dry spots while discarding the stems. You can get even more information about drying herbs right here.

Next winter, let me suggest you consider adding mint leaves to hot apple juice to get a pleasant reminder of summer flavours and fragrances.

Doug Green, award winning garden author of 7 published books answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.beginner-gardening.com/gardeningflowertips.html

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

A Few Iron Fencing Maintenance Tips

Writen by Gabriel J. Adams

Although iron fencing is some of the strongest fencing available (especially when compared to wood fencing), it can always use a little helping hand from its owner. In fact, a properly maintained wrought iron fence can last a hundred years or more!

Fight Rust With Finish

What attracts us to iron in the first place? Iron is known for its strength and ability to withstand the elements better than fencing made with other materials. But without sufficient coating, it can become vulnerable to rust from constant moisture. Morning dew, rain, and snow are the usual culprits of rust, but you can fight them off by coating your iron fence with a nice coat of rust-resistant finish.

Stick With the Solids

In addition to rust, iron fencing is vulnerable deep scratches, dents and chips. Rust-resistant finish does an excellent job of warding off surface scratches and chips, but offers little protection against deep scratches or chipping. And it certainly does nothing to protect against dents or bending. Your best defense against fence dents and bending is to resist using hollow iron.

Wash and Wax

To keep your iron fence looking new, give it a good washing with warm soapy water between seasons. Follow up with a wax and then oil the fence's joint, springs, latches, etc. with mineral oil. Steel wool can be used to sand away light scratches, while specially formulated paint will cover small holes. While painting, let each layer dry between one another. Otherwise you'll risk dripping (while wet) and flaking (while dry).

If you're not careful to quickly nip those little scratches or spots of rust in the bud, they'll increase in size and form noticeable holes before you know it - holes that will require even more maintenance than what's described above!

A Look At Garden Gazebos

Writen by Alison Cole

A garden gazebo is the perfect way to accent your garden. Imagine being able to walk along the path between the koi pond and the flowers, the hedges and the willow tree, pausing to rest on a bench inside a gazebo. Its shade will comfort you, and its architecture will add that special geometric touch to your garden, striking the balance between nature and humanity. No matter what the environment of your garden, there is a garden gazebo out there just waiting to be bought.

In creating a garden gazebo, first choose your material from wood, metal, or vinyl options. Wood is the most common choice, and for good reason: it goes with any natural environment. Wood is available in pine, cedar, and redwood. Pine is the softest wood, ages to a rich yellow, and complements surrounding evergreens. Cedar is higher in overall sturdiness, is less prone to rot, and ages to a gray-brown. American redwood is the darkest, longest-lasting wood. Other woods can be used, but those are the most common.

Metal gazebos come in cast aluminum or steel and wrought iron. Go with steel and wrought iron if you want your garden gazebo to add a lovely dark and long lasting effect. These gazebos are often open-roofed, and so are great for stocking with plants, climbers, and other materials, making for a lush shade that changes with the seasons. Vinyl comes in white or black. Just as with wood and metal gazebos, they come in a variety of shapes and styles. Get trellis walls for a cottage feeling.

For enhanced usability in harsher weather conditions, get an enclosed garden gazebo. These can be partially enclosed, with partitions and movable screens, or totally enclosed, with solid walls and tinted windows.

Whether looking to expand a large corporate garden, or just to complement a small neighborhood plot, a garden gazebo is an inviting structure for rest, meditation, or meeting up with other people to enjoy the weather.

Gazebos Info provides detailed information about spa, garden, patio, canopy, screened, metal, and vinyl gazebos, as well as gazebo plans and kits. Gazebos Info is the sister site of Awnings Web.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Birch Leaf Miner

Writen by Paul Burke

Appearance:

Generally speaking the first most obvious sign of this pest is browning and wilting of the foliage on your birch tree. The larvae cause this discolouration and distortion by feeding that create tunnels within the individual leaves. These tunnels first appear as a greenish colour but quickly turn to a grey, then eventually a brown. These tunnels contain the waste of the larvae and are blackish in colour. This waste is known as frass. The larvae are flat to aid them in their tunneling habits and are a greenish yellow in colouration. They also have four black spots on their underside at the front. By holding the leaves up to a light the eggs and larvae will appear as transparent spots.

Life Cycle:

Birch leaf miner will create 3-4 generations per year. The adult will emerge from the soil in May and June and will deposit their eggs in slits created in the surface of a newly developed leaf. The larvae consume the tissue situated between the upper and lower leaf surface. They will eventually eat their way through to the surface of the leaf and fall to the ground to pupate. The adults emerge again and continue the cycle. They will over-winter below the tree and emerge again in the spring.

Controlling the problem:

An infestation of birch leaf miner generally speaking will not kill a healthy mature tree. By defoliating the host tree they can however weaken it, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases. If you are using insecticides to control this pest, please be sure to follow all directions on the label before and while applying. By controlling the initial generation of birch leaf miner you can go a long way to minimize the damage caused by additional generations. Use a systemic insecticide before the buds open to prevent this pest from egg laying. You can also apply insecticides as the new leaves emerge.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca

Pond Liners

Writen by Eric Morris

Ponds are small water spaces that provide beauty and calm to their surroundings, whether large concrete constructions or small private gardens. Even the Romans, Egyptians and Chinese of the ancient world loved to decorate their gardens with attractive ponds.

The most important task while building a pond is to lay a Pond Liner, just like laying a foundation for a building. A natural lake or pond has dirt, rock and silt at its bottom. A Pond Liner helps prevent the pond water from penetrating the soil, making the soil silty.

Pond Liners come in different options. The first choice is between preformed and custom-made or flexible. Preformed liners are suitable for small garden ponds. Preformed Pond Liners are quick and easy to install. Flexible liners are suitable for medium-sized ponds. Flexible liners are made of natural materials like rubber and clay, as well as synthetics such as PVC liners.

Installing a preformed Pond Liner requires creating a hole suited to the space of the pond. But installing flexible liners requires checking whether any sharp objects will penetrate the liner.

Preformed Pond Liners made of plastic are strong and not likely to leak. They are difficult to fit, due to their varying shapes and depth sizes, and are suited to small ponds. Such ponds are usually expensive, with high delivery charges. Flexible liners include rubber products like butyl rubber, EPDM (ethylene propylene dyiene monomer) rubber, and clay like sodium bentonyte clay. Synthetic plastics include P.V.C. (polyvinyl chloride), polyethylene (a thermo plastic) and Ultra Guard (polymeric alloy).

The primary advantage of flexible Pond Liners is that they are easy to transport. They are not affected by limits of size or shape. The materials can be molded into the pond shape of your choice. It is easy to make adjustments. There is a variety of material to suit every need. The pond will look natural as it blends with the landscape.

Synthetic rubber is most versatile. Called EPDM, it is economical, durable and easy to install. And really flexible. Flexible plastic liners such as PVC and HDPE are available, but not as effective as rubber liners.

With the advent of garden pools and preformed pool liners, all the hassles of concrete and other raw material are saved. Heavy-duty Pond Liners are available with long-term guarantees, and sell for less than $1 per square foot. Large ponds require a large Pond Liner that is safe for fish and plant life, inexpensive, easy to install, and durable to last over 20 years. Polyethylene is suitable for such ponds.

Pond Liners are available in black, and U.V. protected. Many people install pre-liners to provide an insulating layer between the soil and Pond Liner. Ultimately, to select a Pond Liner, a number of criteria must be considered such as size, quality goals, budget, property value, and wildlife.

Pond Liners provides detailed information about pond liners, garden pond liners, preformed pond liners, rubber pond liners and more. Pond Liners is the sister site of Natural Waterfalls.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Flowers How To Buy Them When They Are Fresh

Writen by John Gibb

Flowers form the best gifts and it takes some time and consideration for selecting the right Flower for the right occasion. Buying Flowers is an Art like presenting them for that particular occasion. Due to the advancement of transport facilities and Cold Storage facilities it has become possible to get flowers from around the World to any other place in the World.

The Flowers that grow in one part of the World go to the other part of the World still looking fresh and fragrant. But there are occasions when the Flowers we buy get spoiled and shrunken sooner than expected completely spoiling the occasion for which they have been bought. So what went wrong? Was the flowers that seemed perfectly fresh at the Florist have lost their freshness before we reach our home.

In reality it is not always as easy to tell if the flowers you buy are as fresh as they look. Your problem becomes more as the Flowers don't come with a "best consumed before" date stamped on them. This makes you more confused so there really isn't a way to know how fresh they really are. It is equally not possible to say how long they will remain fresh.

You must be aware that the flowers that you find at the Florist shop have already been through quite a bit by the time they reach you. Usually Flower growers spend their day selling many of their beautiful Blooms directly to Consumers. At the end of the day when they have quite a bit of stock left over. These Flowers are bundled up and shipped off to auctions and wholesalers throughout the Country and often to other Countries.

They are sold at a discount, because they are no longer fresh. They are passed on from wholesalers to the local Florists who stock them in their coolers in hopes of selling them to their Customers in various arrangements. All these take time and when the time they are stocked in the Cooling Box are also added the Bouquet Flowers delivered to you from your local Florist, might already be anywhere from 3 to 5 days old and the chances of it lasting very long are slim.

The best and most exquisite bouquets come from using only the freshest of Flowers. If you want to purchase Flowers that are fresh, you have to eliminate the middlemen and try to buy from sources that are as close as possible to the Growers of the Flowers. When you buy blossoms direct from the Growers, they won't bloom into their full glory prematurely, giving you many more days of pleasure.

John Gibb is the owner of flower sources , For more information on flowers check out http://www.Flowers-resources2k.info

What You Should Know About Solar Greenhouses

Writen by Ken Wilssens

Although every greenhouse is a solar greenhouse to some extent, there are differences in the type of solar heating and lighting that you can use. The covering you use, whether it is fibreglass, glass or heavy plastic, traps the heat from the sun inside each day. The trick in having a successful greenhouse is learning how to store this solar heat to keep the temperature the same during the night. A traditional greenhouse captures the solar heat during the day, but it loses significant amounts of this heat at night.

One way of maintaining the heat during the night is to use what is called passive solar heating. This consists of collecting water in barrels. The water retains the heat and allows it to escape during the night and heat the greenhouse. Another way, which involves more expense, is to have a concrete wall or rocks that can supply the needed heat.

You can also revert to using electricity to power a heater during the night. If you use a heat pump, it will pump the stored heat from the water into the greenhouse, thus maintaining the humidity that the plants need. Without having humidity of some kind in addition to the heat, the plants may become dehydrated.

If you have your greenhouse attached to a building, you can consider having that wall covered with bricks. Those that use this system paint the bricks black so that they absorb the maximum heat from the sun during the day. Although this method does work well, it takes a lot of extra time getting the greenhouse set up.

Recent research has looked at using cheap chemical compounds called eutectics to maintain the solar heat in a greenhouse. These are salts that store the heat from the sun at a constant temperature for use during the nights and for cloudy days.

You do need to have a backup system for heating in greenhouse because you can't rely on receiving heat from the sun on a continuous basis.

For lots of helpful information on greenhouse humidification and related topics, visit The Greenhouses Guide at http://www.thegreenhousesguide.com.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Can Your Sundial Really Tell The Time

Writen by Hugh Harris-Evans

"I am a sundial, and I make a botch
Of what is done far better by a watch"

So wrote Hilaire Belloc, but is this really fair? Sundials are the earliest known form of time-keeping having been used for some five thousand years. The Greek historian Herodotus stated that sundials were first used by the Chaldeans and Sumerians in Babylonia which was part of the modern Iraq. They used vertical rods on their buildings and noted the position of the shadow to record the passing of the hours. The concept was developed by the Greeks and Romans who constructed various different shapes of dial to enable them to tell the time and the season of the year. Usually these were bowl-shaped dials with vertical or horizontal gnomons (shadow-casters) and hour lines marked in the hollow of the bowl. Over the years more elaborate designs were produced until the advent of accurate clocks when the function of the sundial became more decorative than as a reliable means of telling the time.

The question is often asked "Can a sundial really tell the correct time?" to which you will receive the Alice in Wonderland reply that it depends upon what you mean by "the correct time". Our clocks and watches work on the basis of there being exactly twenty-four hours between one day and the next but, because of the eliptical nature of the earth's orbit around the sun, the time shown on the sundial will vary according to the seasons. In February by the clock the sun is almost fifteen minutes slow, whereas during the spring and summer months it gains and loses between four and six minutes in two cycles. At the other extreme in November the sundial appears to be some seventeen minutes fast. In fact the sundial is accurate on only four days of the year, about April 15, June 14, September 2 and December 25. Some sundials include a table showing the deviation from "clock time" according to the date.

The time indicated by the sun will also vary with the location of the dial. The sun travels across the sky at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour so every degree of longditude represents a difference of four minutes from the standard meridian for the region. The angle of the gnomon also depends on the situation, so to set up your sundial correctly you need to know both the latitude and longditude of its location. For the United States and the United Kingdom this site can provide the information. The gnomon should be set at the angle in degrees which is equal to the latitude of your location. The sundial can then be fixed with the gnomon pointing to the Pole Star. There are various ways of achieving this, the easiest of which, is to use a compass adjusted for the magnetic variation. Further details are beyond the scope of this article, but for those interested look at this site.

If you have read this far you will have discovered that there is a great deal more to the sundial than a mere item of garden decoration. If this has piqued your interest in the subject, then you are not alone. There are Sundial Societies in countries around the world. The North American Sundial Society has details of its objects and activities on its website.

A number of sundial trails have been established. A good example is the Thames Sundial Trail in London, England. This site lists a number of other trails in countries all over the world but only two in the United States. However the North American Sundial Society has a complete list on its website.

Two rather different designs are shown here. The first, which is commonly referred to as a Human Sundial, uses the person's shadow to indicate the time. By standing in the appropriate box for the date the shadow will show the correct time. The second is a Digital Sundial which sounds like a contradiction in terms but in reality is just a rather clever design.

Many sundials have a motto inscribed on the face. Often these are rather serious in tone and of the "Tempus fugit" variety but you also find some written in a lighter vein. Here are a few of my favourites:

The shadow of my finger cast
Divides the future from the past

The clock the time may wrongly tell,
I never if the sun shines well

I stand amid the summer flowers
To tell the passage of the hours

And finally again from Hilaire Belloc:

I am a sundial, turned the wrong way round.
I cost my foolish mistress fifty pounds!

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Gardening To Stay Fit

Writen by Mary Hanna

Love to garden? Well here's good news. Gardening can get you in shape; call it backyard fitness.

You remember when you joined the gym and vowed to go three times a week. Or when you bought the treadmill knowing you would use it everyday. Well, that didn't happen, did it?

Work in the garden and on the lawn works the heart and other muscles just as effectively as other forms of exercise. Little did we know that pushing a hand mower burns more calories then an hour on the treadmill at 4 miles per hour. Digging and raking burn even more calories. Any amount of aerobic exercise will decrease your risk of heart disease. The risk of heart disease declines for each day of 30 minute yard work you perform.

Before you go out to your yard with you gardening gloves and hat, do some stretching to warm up your muscles for the job ahead. After stretching take a brisk 5 minute walk around your garden to spot where you will be working that day Check out exercise routines on websites and libraries or go to the bookstore.

You don't need fancy equipment to get warmed up. You can use a broom held behind you back and rotate your body left and right. Grasp a couple of soup cans and do some arm curls. If things were perfect, you should start conditioning about six weeks before the planting season. But if you didn't plan it that way, it's alright. Just do some stretching and do the yard work in small sections until you feel stronger.

To avoid overuse injuries, switch chores often. Start with weeding and then switch to digging in the dirt. Takes some breaks, the 30 minutes does not have to be continuous.

It is important to change positions frequently so you don't freeze up. When you're weeding kneel on a pad and then switch to a seated position. Don't bend over to work.

Make sure you have the right gear. Always wear sturdy shoes and garden gloves. I never work in the garden without a hat and good sunglasses. If you have a back problem wear a brace to avoid further injury. Spend a little extra time warming up an area that may be venerable.

Lift and carry correctly. When lifting, bend from your knees not your waist. This will keep you from a back injury. When carrying heavy loads like bags of soil, hold them close to your body and centered rather than out in front. If something is really heavy, rather than risk injury, use a wheel barrel.

It is most important is to stay hydrated. Don't wait until you feel thirsty, drink water constantly.

And lastly: don't overdo it. Pace yourself when you first begin yard work. Spread the yard work over a couple of days and your muscles will thank you.

Happy Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Cruising, Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.GardeningHerb.com http://www.CruiseTravelDirectory.com and http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com or contact her at mary@webmarketingreviews.com

Friday, February 20, 2009

The Benefits Of Organic Gardening

Writen by Laura Fox

Organic Gardening refers to the system in which plants are grown in an organic environment. According to the USDA regulations, those who are involved in the process of organic gardening are prohibited from using irradiation, sewage sludge or genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in organic production. This type of food production would be certified as organic farming or gardening.

Accordingly, the important aspects of organic gardening will include the following:

  • Those who engage in organic gardening or farming can't use synthetic or chemical fertilizers and pesticides.
  • There should be a systematic approach in organic gardening. This means that a system needs to be implemented. This system will describe the methodologies about sowing, production and reaping of plants.
  • Records must be also kept which will keep a track of the products till they are sold.
  • Buffer zones should be maintained so that there are no inadvertent contaminations from the gardens and the farms, which use the conventional method of farming or gardening.
Those involved in organic gardening understand the importance of crops, the soil, the pests and the insects as well as the interdependency of all these factors. Organic gardening helps to care and the nurture the very soil of the crops. Thus the benefits that we get are naturally grown flowers, trees and plants.

Organic gardening can also be certified by state organizations and private organizations, which have been accredited by the USDA. The farms and gardens, which are looking to certify themselves, have to submit their organic systems on an annual basis.

Based upon these systems inspectors will come and inspect their establishments and verify with the systems that they have submitted. All facilities are included in the inspection and this includes pest control method, livestock, feedstock for livestock, soil management programs etc.

The organically grown products are minimally processed to retain their natural freshness and nutritious value. However irradiation, synthetic and genetically engineered foods and products can't be used in organic farming or gardening.

The biggest advantage is that there are no chemicals and pesticides used. Hence there are no residues when we eat the fruits. There is nothing to wash off or fear like normal produce.

This means that we live a healthy life and we beget a healthy life for our children and the generations to come. As humans we want to lead a healthy life and this gives us a right to choose what foods we eat as well as how we get the foods.

Laura Fox makes it easy to learn organic gardening. To get started organic gardening and claim your free guide to organic gardening visit http://www.organicgardeningmagic.com now.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

10 Tips For Successful Rose Planting

Writen by Kathy Burns-Millyard

Planting roses isn't actually complicated, as long as you have some good advice and tips to start with...

1. Check with your local gardening center or florist for the best type of roses to grow in you climate. If you are a novice, you should look fo? disease resistant types of roses because they require a lot less maintenance.

2. When planting roses, you want to pick a spot that is well lit in the morning. You also want an area that is sunlit for at least 6 hours a day. Roses need a great deal of light if they are to grow properly. If you live in a really hot climate though, you'll probably get the best results by not planting your roses in direct sunlight.

3. Pick an area that has plenty of well drained soil. Great soil has a PH level where the amount of acid in the soil is at about 5.5-7.0. You can get a testing kit for your soil at any garden center.

4. Organic matter like manure or lime helps to nourish the roots of your roses. You should soak the roots in water or puddle clay for many minutes, and cut off any root's ends that are broken.

5. The first 3-4 weeks after planting your roses, you should water them often. Usually this is when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. Roses need a lot of hydration and food to remain healthy.

6. Four weeks after planting, you should start soaking the bed every 2 weeks or so. You should do this in the morning for the best results.

7. Begin fertilization approximately 3 months after planting. Use 3-6 inches of mulch to control the moisture, temperature, and to stops weeds from coming up. Mulch also helps to lock in the vital nutrients your roses need in order to remain healthy.

8. Planting in the Spring is the best.

9. You want to plant your roses in an area that is well circulated with air. Your roses will not grow in an enclosed or tight area.

10. Dig a hole that is two times bigger than the amount of space that your roses take up. It makes it easier to plant them and creates a spaced area for them to grow with freedom. Poor circulation for your roses can cause fungal diseases. Using a larger hole also makes it easier for you to pull them up later and pot them if you'd like.

© 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard and Garden-Source.com

This article is provided courtesy of http://www.Garden-Source.com - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.

How To Create A Wildflower Garden

Writen by Lesley Dietschy

In today's gardens often populated by geraniums, roses, and zinnias, wildflowers can provide a simple and graceful flair. Almost any garden or landscape can be beautified by their presence. Not only are wildflowers easy to grow but they possess a natural resistance to pests, disease, and harsh climates. They can survive in clay soil, nutrient poor soil, sandy soil, and practically no soil at all. Once established in their preferred habitat, wildflowers can survive on their own without pruning, weeding, primping, and little or no watering.

The easiest way to create and grow a wildflower garden is to sow the seeds (to plant seeds by scattering) on well-prepped ground where they will not be in competition with weeds and grasses. The basic steps are as follows:

1. Decide when to plant (sow) the seeds. Wildflower seeds like warm soil and they can be planted in either spring or fall, depending on the species and where you live. They typically germinate best with a soil temperature of 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Therefore, if you live in zones 1-6 you should plant in the spring and if you live in zones 7-11 you should plant in the fall. For best results, follow the instructions on the seed packet or ask your local nursery.

2. Choose a sunny, well-drained gardening site. Most wildflowers need at least five to eight hours of sunlight a day and well-drained soil.

3. Prepare the ground by removing any existing vegetation and/or weeds.

4. Plant (sow) the seeds. Before spreading, mix the seeds in a bucket with fine-grade builder's sand. Use four parts sand to one part seed. This will help to ensure even coverage. Spread the seeds in a sweeping motion either by hand or by using a handheld broadcast seeder.

5. Tap in the seeds. A seed that is buried too deep will not germinate. To ensure good contact between the seeds and the ground, walk over the seedbed and tap it down with your foot or use the head of a garden rake.

6. Water seeds. Wildflower seeds need water to germinate. Water frequently until the plants grow 1 to 2 inches tall. After that, only water the wildflowers if they look wilted or stressed.

7. Pull weeds. If weeds grow in the midst of your wildflower garden, pull them by hand before they have a chance to flower and populate. If your wildflowers grow thickly, they will eventually choke out most weeds.

The types of wildflowers or native plants you can grow basically depend on the characteristics of your garden and environment. Typically, it's easier to grow native wildflowers that are already adapted to the climate and growing conditions in their native range. However, there are wildflowers that will survive in virtually any setting and adaptable enough to grow in many regions of the country. A few of the most popular wildflowers that grow in North America are Texas Bluebonnets, Indian Paintbrush, Butterfly Weed, Autumn Sage, Goldenrod, Sunflower, Black-eyed Susan, Winecup, and the California Poppy.

Wildflower seeds or plants can be purchased from a local nursery, mail order, or on the internet. Normally, wildflower seed mixes contain seeds of both annual and perennial plants. This is done so that the annuals grow rapidly and cover the ground, while the perennial plants are taking time to get established.

Growing wildflowers from seeds can be more economical than buying mature plants. However, one disadvantage of growing wildflowers from seeds is that many native plants require a long time to germinate and mature. Also, the seeds of some species require pretreatment before they can be planted. This process involves stratification, which is placing seeds in a refrigerated storage in a non-soil growing medium for one to two months and sometimes longer. So, if you are not proficient at growing plants from seed, it may be best to start your wildflower garden by purchasing a few mature plants from a reputable nursery.

Whether adding wildflowers to your existing garden or creating a little garden unto itself, it can be a lot of fun to experiment with seeds and mature plants and learn which species adapts the best to your garden. To further research wildflowers, visit a few of the wildflower organizations that can be found on the internet.

Lesley Dietschy is a freelance writer and the creator/editor of The Home Decor Exchange and the Home & Garden Exchange. The Home Decor Exchange is a popular home and garden website featuring resources, articles, decorating pictures, free projects, and a shopping marketplace. The Home & Garden Exchange website is a link exchange program and directory dedicated to the home and garden industry, as well as offering free website content and promotional ideas. Please visit both websites for all of your home, garden, and website needs.

http://www.HomeDecorExchange.com

http://www.HomeGardenExchange.com

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

The Basic Principles Of Landscape Design

Writen by Steve Boulden

Whether you plan to "borrow ideas" or plan on creating your own landscaping design, you should have at the very least a basic understanding of the principles of landscape design.

Don't feel that you have to apply every principle to every part of your plan. Just having an understanding of these principles can help you generate ideas and increase your creativity.

Great landscaping lies in the eyes of the its creator. So, while the principles of landscape design are great guidelines to follow, don't feel like they're the "have to rules" of landscaping. Abstract and creativity are allowed.

Unity should be one of your main goals in your design. It may be better understood and applied as consistency and repetition. Repetition creates unity by repeating alike elements like plants, plant groups, or decor throughout the landscape. Consistency creates unity in the sense that some or all of the different elements of the landscape fit together to create a whole.

Unity can be created by the consistency of character of elements in the design. By character, I mean the size, height, texture, color schemes, etc. of different elements.

A good example would be in the use of accent rocks and boulders. If you've ever seen a landscape design that had several different colors and sizes of boulders, then you've seen that unity wasn't created by this particular element.

This is just one example but the principle applies to all other elements such as groups of plants and materials.

A simple way to create unity in your landscape is by creating theme gardens. Creating a theme garden is easier when it's related to something you're interested in or have a passion for.

If you're interested in butterflies for instance, you could create a theme using plants that attract butterflies as well as using statues, ornaments, and other decor that are related to butterflies.

Unity should be expressed through at least one element in your landscape and preferably more. Using elements to express a main idea through consistent style and a specific theme is what creates harmony.

Simplicity is actually one of the principles in design and art. It's one of the best guidelines you can follow as a beginner or do it yourselfer. Just keep things simple to begin with. You can do more later.

Simplicity in planting, for instance, would be to pick two or three colors and repeat them throughout the garden or landscape. Keeping decor to a minimum and within a specific theme as well as keeping hardscapes such as boulders consistent is also practicing simplicity.

Balance in design is just as the word implies. A sense of equality. There are basically two types of balance in landscape design. Symmetrical and Asymmetrical.

Symmetrical balance is where there are more or less equally spaced matching elements, areas, and shapes of the garden design. With a garden equally divided, both sides could share all or part of the same shape, form, plant height, plant groupings, colors, bed shapes, theme, etc.

You may remember creating something like this when you were a kid in art class at school. Where you take a piece of paper, splash paint on it, fold it in half, unfold it, and then it magically creates an interesting symmetrical design. So symmetrical balance or design is somewhat of a mirror image or reflection.

Asymmetrical balance on the other hand is one of the principles of landscape design that's a little more complex. While textures, forms, colors, etc. may remain constant to create some unity, shapes and hardscapes may be more random. This form of balance often has separate or different themes with each having an equal but different type of attraction.

Asymmetrical may be better understood as actually being unbalanced, abstract, or free form while still creating unity and balance through the repetition of some elements.

A good example of this would be where bed shapes or paths differ on both sides of the landscape dividing line while still sharing some of the same elements and plants. One side could be curved with a sense of flow while the other side is straight, direct, hard, and completely opposite. Again, unity and balance will be created through other elements.

Contrast can be very interesting and this type of form can create a neat contrast. Flowing lines are pleasing to the eye but the bold contrast of a curve combined with a straight line can be very interesting.

Asymmetrical balance isn't dependant on the shape of your garden. It can be but generally it's not.

An example might be where one side of the garden is mostly large shade trees while the other side is predominately a lower growing flower garden or even a mix of both examples. Like I stated earlier, the landscaping can be abstract while still maintaining unity through other elements such as rocks, plants, and decor.

Contrast and harmony can also be achieved using plants. Fine foliage verses coarser foliage, round leaves verses spiked leaves as well as color compliments and contrasts.

Plant height, color, and texture may be varied from one area to the next but each area should stay consistent within its own theme.

You'll hear me talk about "themes" a lot. Many successful do it yourself designs follow a basic theme to achieve most of the principles of landscape design described on this page. It's a simple starting point for do it yourselfers that can be added to later.

Color adds the dimension of real life and interest to the landscape. Bright colors like reds, yellows and oranges seem to advance toward you and can actually make an object seem closer to you. Cool colors like greens, blues, and pastels seem to move away from you and can make an object seem farther from you.

Grays, blacks, and whites are considered neutral colors and are best used in the background with bright colors in the foreground. However, to increase depth in a landscape, you can use dark and coarse textured plants in the foreground and use fine textured and light colored plants in the background.

Colors can also be used to direct your attention to a specific area of the garden. A bright display among cooler colors would naturally catch the eye.

Natural transition can be applied to avoid radical or abrupt changes in your landscape design. Transition is basically gradual change. It can best be illustrated in terms of plant height or color but can also be applied to all elements in the landscape including but not limited to textures, foliage shape or size, and the size and shape of different elements.

In other words transition can be achieved by the gradual, ascending or descending, arrangement of different elements with varying textures, forms, colors, or sizes.

An example of a good transition would be a stair step effect from large trees to medium trees to shrubs to bedding plants. This example is where a little knowledge of proper plant selection would come in handy.

Transition is one of the principles of landscape design that can be used to "create illusions" in the landscape. For example a transition from taller to shorter plants can give a sense of depth and distance (like in a painting), making the garden seem larger than it really is. A transition from shorter to taller plants could be used to frame a focal point to make it stand out and seem closer than it really is.

Line is of the more structural principles of landscape design. It can mostly be related to the way beds, walkways, and entryways move and flow.

Straight lines are forceful and direct while curvy lines have a more natural, gentle, flowing effect.

Proportion simply refers to the size of elements in relation to each other. Of all the principles of landscape design, this one is quite obvious but still requires a little thought and planning. Most of the elements in landscape design can be intentionally planned to meet the proper proportions.

For instance if you are creating a small courtyard garden, an enormous seven foot garden statue placed in the center would be way out of proportion and a little tacky to say the least. Or a small four foot waterfall and pond placed in the center of a large open yard would get lost in the expanse.

Don't misunderstand this to mean that if you have a large yard you can't have smaller features or garden decor. Proportion is relative and elements can be scaled to fit by creating different rooms in the garden. The goal is to create a pleasing relationship among the three dimensions of length, breadth, and depth or height.

A small water feature can be proportionate if placed in a corner or on the edge of a large area and becomes a focal point of the larger area while creating its own distinct atmosphere. An entire room, sitting area, or theme can be created around it. Other rooms and themes can be created as well. See small gardens for ideas on creating rooms and creating illusions.

Also, special consideration and study should be given to proper plant selection to avoid using plants that are out of proportion.

Repetition is directly related to unity. Its good to have a variety of elements and forms in the garden but repeating these elements gives variety expression.

Unity is achieved by repeating objects or elements that are alike. Too many unrelated objects can make the garden look cluttered and unplanned.

There's a fine line here. It's possible that too much of one element can make a garden or landscape feel uninteresting, boring and monotonous.

However, unity can still be created by using several different elements repeatedly. This in turn keeps the garden interesting.

Written by Steve Boulden. Steve is the owner and chief designer for S&S Designed Landscaping in Carlsbad, NM. He is also the creator of The Landscape Design Site which offers free professional landscaping advice, tips, plans, and ideas to do it yourselfers and homeowners. For more free landscaping and garden ideas, visit his site at: http://www.the-landscape-design-site.com

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

The Best Types Of Fish For Your Garden Pond

Writen by Anne Clarke

There are many reasons as to why you might want to have fish in your garden pond – they add beauty, color, and interest to your garden and act as a sort of outdoor "pet." But there are other good reasons for putting fish in your pond, as well. For one, fish will eat pesky mosquitoes as well as pond algae. Overall, pond fish are also fairly easy to care for, too.

Now that I have convinced you to get some fish for your garden pond, let us go over a few types of popular outdoor pond fish – most outdoor pond fish are freshwater-coldwater types.

Comet goldfish

This type of goldfish is going to be able to handle varied conditions in your pond – this includes varied conditions due to weather, as well as conditions due to your inexperience with pond fish. Comet fish can endure variations in both temperature and water quality. Comet goldfish are distinguishable by their long single tails – like a comet. They come in a variety of colors, including red and white. Also, comet goldfish tend to be fairly inexpensive. Chances are, your comet gold fish will live for 14 years and grow up to 10 inches long.

Shubunkin goldfish (aka calico goldfish)

This is a very interesting goldfish – like a common goldfish, shubunkin goldfish have long bodies and a single tail, but they are brightly colored in a mix of fantastic colors… red, brown, blue, yellow, and violet. They are also distinguished by black spots on their bodies and tails. This is a very tough goldfish type. Make sure that your pond has plenty of plants and open areas for swimming. If you have shubunkin goldfish, do not put telescope goldfish or bubble eye goldfish (and other slow swimming fish) in with them – they might end up starving because shubunkin goldfish will get to the food first… and they do not share. Rather, you should get your shubunkins a koi or two as buddies.

Koi

Koi range from very inexpensive to very expensive – there is quite a variety as to the type and quality of koi. By quality, I am referring to the color and patterns displayed on the koi's scales. As abovementioned, koi can cohabitate with other goldfish like comets and shubunkins very well. Koi can grow to be several feet long, and they can live from 25-50 years! Some people think that koi are gold fish, but they are only distant cousins to the goldfish – they are actually much more closely related to the common carp. While koi can handle a wide range of temperatures, as sudden change in temperature can affect them adversely. Koi will get along with other tropical fish, as well.

Whichever type of fish that you decide to get for your pond, be sure that you get ones that will cohabitate well and ones that are durable (like the abovementioned types of fish). Also make sure that you do not try to stick too many fish in too small of a pond. Consider having only one inch of fish per gallon of pond water. A 10 foot by 10 foot pond can typically support about 20 five inch fish… This math equation might be a bit too much – a general rule of thumb is to start with just a few, and go from there. Remember that your fish will grow!

Just a note: If you are new to having fish in your pond, you may want to avoid fantail varieties – these are not quite as durable as other types of goldfish.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on fish and ponds, please visit Pond Filters.

Tomatoes History Origin Facts Or Fiction

Writen by Kirk Gordon

A tomato importer, John Nix, decided to challenge the law after scrutinizing the Tariff Act. His case relied on the fact that tomatoes were a fruit and not vegetable, therefore, it should not be subjected to the Tariff Act. Nix's objections brought the case to the Supreme Court in 1893. Although Nix had a solid case, the Supreme Court rejected the botanical facts and continued to refer to tomatoes as a vegetable.

Plant family
Tomatoes belong to the genus Lycopersicon, while potatoes belong to the genus Solanum; Both of which belongs to the same "flowering plant family" solanaceae. The similarities in leaves and flowers justifies this taxonomic grouping.

The UK - Introduction of the tomato
When the tomato plant was first introduced into the UK, some areas were not willing to consume the fruit because they were considered poisonous. Other plants that were poisonous, and in the same family as the tomato, such as the henbane, mandrake and the deadly nightshade were reasons to be concerned.

The deadly nightshade (Atropus belladonna), in particular, resembled the tomato plant the most, and was used as a hallucinogenic drug, as well as for cosmetic purposes in various parts of Europe. In Latin, the name "belladonna"; literally means "beautiful woman." The women in medieval courts would apply drop of deadly nightshade extract to their eyes, dilating their pupils, a fashionable statement at the time.

When the deadly nightshade was taken for it's hallucinogenic properties, the consumer would experience visuals and a feeling of flying or weightlessness. German folklore suggests it was also used in witchcraft to evoke werewolves, a practice know as lycanthropy. The common name for tomatoes in Germany translates to "Wolf peach," which was simply another reason for Europeans to avoid the plant.

North America - Introduction of the tomato
Tomato plants were transported by colonists from Britain to North America. The plants were most valued for removing pustule (Pimples, Blisters - Pus filled, inflamed skin). The inventor of peanut butter, George Washington Carver, strongly urged his poor Alabama neighbors to consume tomatoes because of their unhealthy diet. However, he had little success convincing them that the plants was edible.

Early efforts by merchants to sell tomatoes were not very successful. It is said that the fruit was brought to the liberal hamlet of Salem, Mass. in 1802 by a painter who also found it difficult persuading people to try the fruit. New Orleans cuisine was reported to have used tomatoes by 1812, however, doubts about the fruit lingered in some areas.

It's thought that doubts about the plant's edibility was laid to rest, when Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson announced that he will consume a bushel of tomatoes in front of the Boston courthouse at noon on September 26, 1820. Thousands of spectators turned out to watch the man commit suicide (At least, so they thought) by consuming the poisonous fruit. It is said that spectators were shocked when they realized the Colonel will survive after consuming numerous tomatoes. This story is from an old farm journal and may not be very reliable, however, it's quite entertaining.

Tomato popularity on the rise
Throughout the western world, tomatoes began to grow in popularity. In the 1820s, several cookbooks included recipes which required or called for tomatoes. Tomatoes were sold by the dozens in Boston's Quincy Market in 1835. In Thomas Bridgeman seed catalogue, 4 varieties of tomatoes were listed: Cherry, Pear, Large Yellow and Large Squash.

Bruist, a seed merchant commented on the tomato in 1858 - "In taking retrospect of the last eighteen years, there is no vegetable on the catalogue that has obtained such popularity in so short a period as the one now under consideration. In 1828-29, it was almost detested; in ten years almost every variety of pill and panacea was extract of tomato. It now occupies as great a surface of ground as cabbage, and is cultivated the length and breadth of the country." - www.heirloomseeds.com

That year, Bruits had eight cultivatars listed in his catalogue. A few years later, in 1863, a popular seed catalogue had 23 cultivars listed. One of the listed cultivars was Trophy, the first modern-looking, large, red, smooth-skinned variety which was sold for $5.00 for a packet of 20 seeds.

Large scale breeding for desirable traits became common in the 1870s in both the US and UK. In fact, by the 1880s several hundred cultivars had been named and it was clear that tomato had grown on the western culture. According to a study conducted at Michigan Agricultural College in the late 1880s, 171 of the named cultivars represented only 61 truly unique varieties, many of which were only marginally different.

Heirloom varieties
Although Central American is thought to be the center of domestication, throughout Europe and later in North America, further domestication occurred on a more intense level. Eastern Europe appeared to produce large numbers of high quality varieties. Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants which tend to become genetically homozygous after many generations. Tomatoes will rarely cross breed and usually produce plants will similar characteristics as the parents.

Because of tomatoes natural breeding process, early cultivars did not change much and were kept in a family or community for a long time, hence the name heirlooms. There are cultivars that dates back to over one hundred years that are still produced today. Most heirloom varieties are different in color, size and shape. Some varieties are black, red with black shoulders, dark purple, rainbow and green. In terms of size, some are the size of a cherry to larger varieties weighing over 2 lb.

Heirlooms - a story
Some heirloom varieties have interesting histories as well; at least I think so. Lets talk about the story of a heirloom name Mortgage Lifter. A radiator repair shop owner, Charlie, experienced hard times, as did much of the nation through the Great Depression. Because of financial reasons, most people abandoned their cars and Ol Charlie's business too a hard hit. He decided to use his four largest fruit producing tomato plants to cross breed repeatedly with each other to create a plant that produced two pounds of fruits.

Claming that his plants could feed a family of six, Charlie peddled the crops for a dollar per plant. Within four years, Charlie generated enough money to pay off the $4,000 dollars mortgage on his home, which led to the heirloom name "Mortgage Lifter."

Heirlooms - names & origins
In general, the names of heirloom varieties links directly to their history. For example, the Baptiste family in Remis, Fance cultivated the First Pick variety. Picardy's history also dates back to France (1890). Besser arrived from the Freiburg section of Germany, while Schellenburg's Favorite came from the Schellenburg family near Manheim, Germany.

Elbe was cultivated in 1889 near the Elbe River in Germany. Since the 1870s, the Amish in Pennsylvania cultivated the Amish Paste variety. Brandywine was also cultivated by Amish farmers near Brandywine Creek in Chester County Pennsylvania in 1885. The hills of Virginia is thought to be the origin of the Hillbilly variety. Old Virginia was cultivated in Virginia as well in the early 1900s. In 1953 Campbell Soup Co., introduced the Ace variety which is still popular for canning. On Edgar Allan Poe's estate, a cultivar found growing there bears his mother's maiden name, Hopkins.

Please bear in mind that these heirloom stories may be true or false, in part or whole, and may be inaccurate or exaggerated.

This article is courtest of HydroponicSearch.com - The Agriculture & Gardening Search Engine.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Crape Myrtle Hopi

Writen by Alan Summers

The most winter hardy Crape Myrtle of all.
Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia) are known to be the longest blooming deciduous trees in existence, creating extended periods of striking summer color. This, combined with their alluring fall foliage and drought resistance, has made Crape Myrtles a favorite in both formal and informal landscapes throughout the south.

Crape Myrtles are native to Asia and were introduced to England and the U.S. during the 18th century. Since that time, extensive breeding of Crape Myrtles has resulted in a wide assortment of varieties from ground covers only two feet tall, to shrubs of all heights, to trees almost forty feet tall. The dwarf varieties of Crape Myrtles are allowing gardeners with smaller yards to enjoy these beautiful plants. Winter hardiness and summer mildew resistance have also been improved, allowing gardeners farther north to enjoy Crape Myrtles' fabulous summer display. Finally the exfoliating bark has been much improved. This week we are featuring 'Hopi' - in our experience the hardiest of all the Crape Myrtles.

'Hopi,' is one of several Crape Myrtles developed by the National Arboretum in Washington D.C. - all have been given Native American Indian tribe names. 'Hopi' brings color, texture and interest to the garden in several ways. From mid-summer into the fall, 'Hopi' will bloom with beautiful, medium pink flowers that have the crepe-paper look that Crape Myrtles are known for. The blooms will reach six to seven inches long, beginning relatively early in the season and go on for about 100 days. 'Hopi' has mildew-resistant dark green foliage that will turn to a reddish orange in the fall. It also has grayish-brown bark that will exfoliate with age and looks striking in the winter garden.

Planting and Care
'Hopi' is a compact cultivar, reaching just seven to ten feet tall and six feet wide. It can be grown as a small tree or a large shrub. 'Hopi' can be pruned easily to fit into smaller spaces, if needed. Grow several together to form a hedge, just one as a specimen, or in a container on a patio or porch.

  • Prefers full sun in an area with good air circulation and good soil drainage.
  • Disease and mildew resistant.
  • Water regularly until established.
  • Hardy in Zones 6-9 (protect the first winter in Zone 6).
  • Fertilize with Plant-Tone and Kelp Meal in early spring.
  • When necessary, prune in spring just as the new leaves emerge.
  • To view Crape Myrtle 'Hopi' visit the Carroll Gardens website.

    Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

    Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

    Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

    Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.

    How To Make A Simple Homemade Aeroponics System

    Writen by Jason Willkomm

    The main problem I have always had with building a homemade aeroponics system is the clogging spray nozzles. I was in a hydroponics supply store the other day when it occurred to me the aeroponics system I was looking at did not use any spray heads. As I looked over the new hydroponic gardening system, I marveled at how simple the design really was. With the right pump and correct assembly, the following homemade aeroponics system is relatively problem free.

    There are four main parts to this simple system. There is a 20 gallon (75 liter) reservoir. There are several channels 4 or 6 inches in diameter and several feet long. Every 6 or 8 inches there is a hole drilled into the channel to accomodate a plant. The channels are pitched to allow drainage back to the reservoir. Next is a 1/2 inch line, run down the center of each channel and capped at the end. All the lines are connected at the other end by a manifold. Finally, the manifold attaches to a pump. At any point along the 1/2 line where spray is desired a 1/16 inch drill bit is used to cleanly make a small hole (usually one between each plant site).

    First, 1/2 inch PVC is cut to length and capped at one end. Spray locations are marked and drilled into the 1/2 inch PVC. A 1/2 inch line is run through the length of each channel, which is made from 4 or 6 inch PVC. The line is held in place by drilling two small holes and fastening a zip tie every few feet.

    One end of each channel will have to be sealed with an end cap. The other end may be sealed or left open, depending on how drainage back to the reservoir is to be accomplished. 2 1/2 or 3 inch holes are cut every 6 to 8 inches in the channel to accomodate netted pots (or other planting containers).

    At one end of the homemade aeroponics system, the 1/2 inch lines elbow out of their channels and are joined together by a series of "T" fittings. This is known as the manifold. One end of the manifold is left open to connect to the pump. Your pump may be an external pump or you may use a submersible pump. Either way, the pump needs to be able to deliver a water pressure of 45 to 60 psi to each of the 1/2 inch lines coming from the manifold.

    Finally, any large, cheap, plastic storage tote may be used for the nutrient reservoir. A homemade aeroponics system with 24 to 36 plant sites would require a 20 gallon (75 liter) reservoir. It is always best to choose a dark tote, to keep as much light from the nutrient reservoir as possible. This will prevent algae growth and therefore help prevent fungus gnats. Whenever constructing a homemade hydroponics system you should always use PVC, and not CPVC. CPVC is known to slowly leach harmful chemicals. To prevent leaks, be sure to use PVC cleaner on all parts BEFORE you apply PVC glue and join the parts.

    With systems becoming this simple, it is no surprise many people are interested in the faster growth rates aeroponics has to offer.

    Bonus- learn how to make an aeroponics cloner http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/homemade-aeroponics.html

    Sunday, February 15, 2009

    Online Garden Seed Exchanges

    Writen by Jill Dow

    If you've been gardening for any length of time you have probably realized a couple of things.

    1: Gardening can be quite expensive
    2: Finding the plants you really want can be a daunting task.

    If you're anything like me, you enjoy making changes to your gardens on pretty much a yearly basis. I call this "puttering". I'm always adding, moving, and redesigning. After all, what good is puttering in the garden if there's little to do? While this is good therapy and for many like myself the ultimate form of relaxation mixed with exercise, it can cost a bundle!

    I'll remove a section of garden with a brilliant new garden design in mind and head off to the local garden stores, only to find they have nothing I wanted. In the past I've settled for what was to be had, only to find myself not happy with it next year and the "puttering" begins again.

    Then I discovered……….. ONLINE SEED EXCHANGES!!!!!

    Online seed exchanges are simple online forums where gardeners can post notices of excess seed they have and are willing to exchange for what you have. You can also post requests for seed you'd like. This is a remarkable service! It costs you nothing but a few cents postage to find the garden seed you've been looking for and to share your seed with other gardeners. I'm always thrilled to acquire seed in late fall and propagate them in winter so the plants are ready for next springs puttering season.

    Here are some of the best online seed exchanges.

    The Garden Web Seed Exchange –
    http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/exseed/

    Emily Compost Seed Exchange –
    http://www.emilycompost.com/seed_exchange.htm

    The Garden Helper Seed Exchange –
    http://www.thegardenhelper.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/forum/8.html

    Happy puttering!

    For more information on growing bulbs and seeds see http://www.bulbandseed.com

    Saturday, February 14, 2009

    Shrubs The Way I Like It

    Writen by Khieng Chho

    Of recent times, the popularity of this pint-sized horticultural woody plant has been growing in leaps and bounds. People who wish to be in touch with their inner side and Mother Nature prefer taking care of shrubs rather than other types of plants because generally cuter and easier to transfer to different locations.

    There are a huge variety of plants that can be classified as shrubs or trees, depending on their growing conditions. So don't be confused when a plant shop owner offers you something that you initially thought was a tree. On the other hand, minute-sized plants like lavender and periwinkle are frequently referred to as subshrubs. Shrubs can also be deciduous or evergreen.

    Glossary for Shrub Clubs
    Bush – a plant that is also referred to as shrub in some cases Shrubbery – A part of a garden or park where shrubs are cultivated; if the shrubs are clipped as topiary, these plants would tend to grow dense foliage and small leafy branches that are bunched together Shrubland – used to describe any natural plant community where shubs reign in abundance

    Shrub Pruning
    Pruning is required when taking care of shrubs or plants whenever you plan to transfer them to another area. If you don't prune your shrubs before digging them out, they'll lose their roots and die.

    When you subject shrubs to renewal pruning, results are more often than not favorable and hard cutting them back to their stool-like origins may even lead to longer new stems known as canes.

    Selective pruning however is best for other shrubs if you wish to reveal more of the plants' structure and character.

    Always consult an expert to know the best way to prune your shrubs.

    Shrub Buying Tips
    There are many places that you can buy shrubs – nurseries, malls and even grocery shops. But the truly best place to purchase shrubs are from your local nurseries as they're often the ones with the best stock of shrubs in the best of conditions. Nurseries are also often the ones who'll be able to better assist you if it's your first time to take care of shrubs.

    Ball and Burlap Plants – Evergreen shrubs are often sold wrapped in burlap and their roots contained in a ball of soil; the way they're packaged keeps the plant from drying out.

    Don't life a ball and burlap plant by its trunk or main stem because the weight of the soil ball could either cause some damage to the shrub's roots or worse, cause the two to break apart. Always lift it by its wrapped base when you'll bring it to the cashier counter.

    The best choice of shrubs to buy are younger and well-rooted plants. Older ones tend to have spiral roots and will not grow as well as the younger plants when finally transferred to their permanent setting. For that matter, avoid purchasing any shrub that has spent too long cooped up in room temperature as these plants are already dessicated or damaged from lack of sunlight.

    Choose shrubs that are perfectly suited to your town's weather so that they'll last longer and be easier to take care of.

    If you plan to buy bare root shrubs, always select the completely dormant ones for easier transportation. Furthermore, smaller bare root shrubs are naturally easier to transplant than the larger ones and less expensive as well.

    Khieng 'Ken' Chho - Online Shrub Resources. For more, visit Ken's website: http://shrubs.wicwoc.com/

    The Difference Between Large And Small Ponds

    Writen by Brett Fogle

    If you think that a large pond is simply a small pond that "grew up", you're in for some pond maintenance problems. Let's start off my defining the terms that we'll be using here. A large pond is anything over 1,000 gallons (5,000 liters). A pond that holds over 4,000 gallons (20,000 liters) is a very large pond.

    Large ponds require a whole different level of financial and time committment than small ponds do. You'll need larger and more efficient pumps and filters as well as the additional plumbing that those devices require. You'll probably also spend a lot more for plants and fish as well as higher maintenance costs for those plants and fish.

    Your building and maintenance costs are dependant, to a great extent, on how deep your pond is. A 6' deep pond, for example, calls for a large and highly-specialized biofilter which uses a lot of electricity and requires a pretty hefty chunk of space for installation. You'll need extra UV power and some sophisticated plumbing including bottom drains, skimmers, valves, and the like.

    Of course, you always have the option of letting your pond go "au natural" and develop into a self-maintaining ecosystem just like a real pond. If that's your goal, don't go for a 6' depth. Natural ponds will be more cloudy than a filtered pond and it's likely that you'll never see your fish!

    Even a natural pond will require some help from you before mother nature kicks in. You'll still need to condition the water, and remove chlorine, before fish are introduced. You'll also want to have lots of plants both for natural shelter and temperature regulation as well as for their oxygen-generating characteristics.

    If your pond takes root and begins to develop naturally then you'll actually end up saving quite a bit of money on fish food. A natural pond generates and attracts a lot of natural food sources and it's likely that you will never have to feed your fish at all.

    Don't skimp on testing just because your pond is developing naturally. You still have threats of fertilizer and pesticide runoff entering your pond, and you still need to worry about keeping oxygen levels up and water temperatures down. You'll also want to examine your fish periodically for signs of parasite infestation.

    Keeping a large pond can require an inordinate amount of time and money. My best advice is not to build one unless you are willing to do your part in keeping it.

    **************************************************
    Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
    other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
    and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
    newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
    9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
    'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
    **************************************************

    Friday, February 13, 2009

    Adirondack Chair Cushionscomfort And Style

    Writen by Jennifer Akre

    Once you've chosen the right Adirondack furniture for your outdoor area, you'll want to enhance its comfort and beauty with cushions. Not only will cushions make your seating more comfortable, but the patterns in your Adirondack furniture cushions will be one of the focal points of your décor in your outdoor room.

    There are a wide variety of Adirondack chair cushions available ready made. You can choose from solids, stripes plaids and florals. Most come in standard sizes that will fit many patio furniture styles. Some patio furniture cushions are reversible, as well, allowing you to have two different looks with the same cushions. Choose patterns that complement the style of your furniture and the overall style of the room, as well as ones that complement the colors in your outdoor room.

    Ready made Adirondack chair cushions are typically sewn from weatherproof or weather resistant fabrics, so that they don't have to be brought in when it rains. However, it's critical to check whether or not your fabric is waterproof before you buy. Not all Adirondack chair cushions are designed to be left out in the weather.

    If you want to create custom Adirondack furniture cushions so that they will match with other portions of your décor, you can consider making your cushions or having them made by a seamstress. If your chosen fabric is not weather resistant, consider having the cushions laminated after they're completed. This will allow you to simply wipe off spills with a damp rag, and will keep the patio furniture cushions protected from the weather. Laminating your cushions will cost you a bit more, but it's well worth the money, considering that it makes your fabric choices virtually limitless, and that it protects your cushions for a lifetime.

    Adirondack chair cushions are an important choice in your outdoor décor. Choose wisely so that your outdoor room will be a beautiful reflection of your outdoor style.

    Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous home and patio decor websites, makes it easy to find quality Adirondack Chair Cushions and Adirondack Chairs Learn how to decorate your patio and garden in style - click the following link =>http://www.eAdirondackStyle.com

    Why Patio Benches Are A Great Place To Relax And Enjoy

    Writen by Jennifer Akre

    Having an outdoor patio offers the opportunity and place to sit outdoors where you can relax alone on a lazy Saturday morning or enjoy a barbecue with family and friends. To enhance a patio while providing additional seating, more and more people are turning to patio benches. Although traditional patio furniture is still nice, patio benches do not take up as much room, they can easily be moved from the patio to the lawn, and many designs on the market feature compartments underneath a padded seat for storage.

    With redwood patio benches, you have a nice splash of warm color and a bench that will last for years. Redwood benches come in a number of styles, some with slatted backs and armrests and others simply a bench with a padded seat cushion. Regardless, by choosing a redwood patio bench that has been built with top craftsmanship, you can be sure it will be strong and comfortable.

    Teak patio benches are considered a top choice since this particular wood is the best for facing outdoor elements. With teak, you can choose from several colors that start from a soft golden blonde to a rich caramel. Teak is beautiful and because it is so versatile, you will often find patio benches in elaborate designs. Whether looking for a scrolled back patio bench or a simple love seat with overstuffed cushions, teak is always an excellent choice.

    With wood patio benches, there is a wide selection in both wood type and design. The nice thing about choosing wood is that you can choose a bench regardless of your taste. In other words, if you prefer Edwardian, contemporary, traditional, country, or anything in between, you will find a number of patio benches from which to choose. In addition to the popular choices of redwood and teak, you will also find benches constructed from cedar, beech, birch, jarrah, cypress, mahogany, oak, and pine. The only thing to remember is that some of the softer woods such as pine do not do as well as the hardwoods.

    Now, if you are on a budget but still want a patio bench that will look great and be functional, you might think about wicker. Most of the wicker patio benches on the market are specially treated so they can weather rain, wind, and dirt. However, experts do recommend that wicker furniture be taken in during the cold winter months or covered. However, wicker is actually very strong and durable as long as you purchase quality. Just remember that your best bet for a wicker patio bench is to choose what is known as "all weather" wicker. With this, the patio bench would be designed with an aluminum frame that provides better structure and durability.

    You might also think about metal. For example, you will find patio benches constructed from aluminum, which is actually an excellent outdoor material. With this, you do not have to worry about rust and aluminum is strong, handling outdoor elements quite well. Typically, you would see the legs of the bench made from tubular aluminum, meaning they are hollow with internal reinforcing to give it strength. If you want a patio bench with detailing, then cast aluminum would be a great choice. The result is elegance and a classic look that is perfect for any patio. Finally, wrought iron is often used for patio benches that have scrolling, and a rich style. As you can see, when it comes to patio benches, the options are endless.

    Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous furniture websites, makes it easy to find quality patio benches and indoor benches . Learn how to decorate your patio and home in style by clicking the following link: http://www.SimplyBenches.com.