Friday, October 31, 2008

A Quick Guide To Fish Pond Bridges

Writen by Charles Truett

For years you have dreamed of a quiet place to rest and meditate. A place that is beautiful and calm, where you hear the soothing sounds of fish gliding to and fro in the water. You have finally built the fish pond of your dreams and now you need a fish pond bridge.

When choosing fish pond bridges you will need to make sure the size is appropriate for the pond. Fish pond bridges need to be long enough to span the pond but they do not need to be much longer than the pond.

If you built the pond yourself and plan to build the fish pond bridge also, make sure you have all the materials you need. There are many places to find fish pond bridges information and kits. A really good place to start is online. Check out the sites that feature landscaping bridges.

You will discover that there are all kinds of choices when it comes to fish pond bridges. There are many styles and fish pond bridges can be made from cedar, pine or redwood. There are also fish pond bridges that are made from galvanized materials.

Many fish pond bridges come in kits that even the beginner will be able to put together. Some of these fish pond bridges do not require footings or foundations. They can be bolted together for easy installation.

You will be able to find fish pond bridges in varied price ranges. If you want to pay less, check out several online sites and compare prices. Take shipping costs into consideration too, because some companies offer free shipping.

Put a fish pond bridge over your untroubled waters!

We have a large number of styles and varieties of fish pond and garden bridges available online. For more information visit: http://small-garden-bridges.partnersinsuccess.net/

Ship Ahoy The Nautical Touch In Your Outdoor Living Space

Writen by Debbie Rodgers

Would you rather be sailing or are you strictly a shore bird? Whether you're land-locked or seaside, you can create a nautical look in your outdoor living space by following a few easy principles. You'll find that even landlubbers can answer the siren song of the sea.

Although any outside space can be adapted to this motif, wooden decks are particularly suitable. And if you can manage to install a water feature so that the deck overhangs it, you'll increase the "on-board" feel. Be sure to include the following elements.

Color

For a real yacht-club feel, think navy, as in uniforms. Not only does navy recall the color of the ocean at night, paired with cream accents and brass "buttons", it looks as classy as a ship's captain. You can also add red accents for additional color.

Fabric

Make cushions of canvas or canvas-like fabric. For a trim nautical look, edge thick square cushions in contrasting rope piping. Blue and white striped mattress ticking also makes great throw cushions.

Use sailcloth or awning fabric for drapes. Trim them with navy stripes and hang with grommets on brass curtain rods.

Rope's nautical texture can be incorporated in a number of ways. Lay a jute mat on the floor, wrap rope around a plant pot, use rope tie-backs on outdoor draperies, display rope-handled baskets or simply pile a coil of rope in a corner.

Furniture

Ship-board fixtures are often made of sleek, highly varnished wood and always make the most of available space. Replicate the look on your deck with built-in benches. As a bonus, build storage units under the seats.

For additional portable seating, use wooden and canvas deck chairs or captain's stools.

Lighting

Brass ship lanterns, of course! Although originals are collectibles, there are many attractive reproductions available. Use a traditional oil-burning unit or opt for a candle-lit look.

Motif

The easiest way to carry a nautical theme is with the use of ship-board motifs such as anchors, barometers, weather vanes, sandglasses and seaman's chests. Other useful motifs for an outdoor space include boat pennants, oars and models or images of sailboats.

Choose one or two and collect them in various materials. Or re-create a ship's deck by acquiring one of each kind and displaying them in realistic positions throughout your space.

Put your deck in ship-shape this summer, listen to snap of the canvas in the wind and dream on of the high seas.

About The Author

Debbie Rodgers, the haven maven, owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Her latest how-to guide "Attracting Butterflies to Your Home and Garden" is now available on her web site. Visit her at www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on "Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space". Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com.

Thursday, October 30, 2008

External Vs Submersible Pumps Which One Should You Use

Writen by Brett Fogle

For many people, it's never been a question of whether to use a submersible pump vs. an external pump because most people have smaller ponds and are used to just using a submersible pump. They're easy to install, and are pretty reliable - so why even consider an external pump?

There are a couple of reasons...

But before we go into that, let's briefly talk about the benefits of submersible pumps first. For obvious reasons, a submersible pump is named as such because it is designed to be placed in the pond, and submerged under the water.

These are the easiest of all pumps to install, just drop them in the water and plug them in - and you're ready to do. Of course, you might have some quick plumbing to do, attaching a hose to the waterfall or to a submersible filter (another article entirely), but other than that - that's pretty much all there is to it.

Submersible pumps range in size or gallons per hour, from 50 GPH all the way up to 50,000 gallons per hour, but for most ponds - pumps anywhere from 350 GPH to 4000 GPH will do just fine...

So why might you also consider an external pump instead?

Here are a couple reasons. First, external pumps can much more energy efficient. Now, a typical swimming pool or spa pump won't usually fall into this category - so be careful not to compare apples to oranges! Pool pumps can also be huge energy hogs, so always check the amps to compare different pumps together. Anything over 10 amps will draw a significant amount of $$ out of your pocket every month in electrical costs.

The external pumps that we are talking about are designed specifically for ponds and water gardens, and are engineered for energy efficiency. I'm not sure why those folks in the swimming pool and spa industry haven't figured out how to this yet, but I'm sure they'll catch on sooner or later.

I'm inclined to think the average pond owner is a bit more intelligent than the average pool owner. Why else would someone choose a pool over a pond? Unless of course you have both, but at any rate - let's just assume that we're talking about external pond pumps here.

For comparison, a typical 4000 GPH (gallons per hour) submersible pond pump will typically draw anywhere from 10 amps all the way up to 15 amps, depending on the brand. This can really burn a hole in your wallet (or pocketbook) on a monthly basis, and in some parts of the country will run you $50 - $70 in energy costs.

In contrast, a comparatively rated external pond pump like the William Lim Wave I External Pump (https://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Pumps/wave_pump_for_ponds.htm) is rated at 4380 GPH at 3.47 feet of head, and only draws 2.3 amps - that's 3/4 less energy consumption than the submersible pumps.

When you start getting into larger ponds, 1000 gallons up to 20,000 and above - it's usually a good idea to look into these more energy efficient pumps. For example, the 3/4 HP Dragon pump (https://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Pumps/dragon_pumps.html) will move 7,770 GPH at almost 5 feet of head (and under pressure) and only burn 6.2 amps.

External pumps are almost always better for using with pressurized external filters as well, as submersible pumps are not designed to handle all the back pressure. Other benefits of using an external pump include:

-> Easy to clean without getting your hands messy

-> Come with a removable leaf trap which clog less often

-> Easy to hook up to bottom drains or surface skimmers

-> Generally last longer, and easier to repair / replace parts

So that's it, more than enough information for you to make an educated choice.

Just to recap:

For smaller ponds, and for simple installation and daily use, submersible pumps are probably your best option. For larger ponds, 1000 gallons and above, it may be worth looking into an external pump for your needs. Although they cost a little more on the front end, the energy savings alone can often more than offset this increase in cost during the first year of use alone.

**************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
**************************************************

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Annuals 5 Easy To Grow Flowers

Writen by Michael Russell

Annuals are a great addition to any garden. There are many varieties to choose from and many are easy to grow. Annuals flower all summer long, many until frost. Here are five of the most popular, long blooming annuals.

1. Geraniums. Technically a Pelargonium, geraniums are hugely popular in gardens. They are very easy to grow, so are great for beginning and expert gardeners alike. In warmer climates, geraniums are perennials, but in much of the country, they are treated as annuals. They bloom from spring to frost. There are three types of geraniums: zonal, ivy and scented. The zonal geraniums are the most familiar. They have flower clusters which rise above soft, velvety leaves. The flowers come in colors of red, white, pink, violet and rose. This variety will generally grow twelve to eighteen inches tall. Ivy geraniums have branches that stretch out and droop, making them perfect for containers. The foliage is glossy and smooth. The ivy variety flowers come in pink, lavender, red and white. The scented geraniums are more grown for the fragrance than the flowers. Gently crush the foliage in your hands to release the scent. The fragrance can range from rose, to chocolate, to mint! These geraniums are best planted in containers where you can reach out and rub the foliage.

2. Petunias. Petunias come in such a wide variety of colors and types that it can be difficult to decide which one to pick! Petunias bloom from summer until frost and come in colors ranging from red, white, yellow, purple, pin and multi colored. The two main classes of petunias are multifloras and grandifloras. Multifloras are compact with smaller flowers. The flowers can be either single or double petaled. The grandifloras are the larger of the two classes, growing up to twenty four inches tall. This class is often used for hanging baskets or containers. The flowers can be single or double petaled. Remove the dead flower blooms in order to keep the petunias producing flowers all season.

3. Marigolds. Marigolds are the work horses of the garden. They are not fussy, very easy to grow right from seed and produce many flowers from spring to frost. The four common types of marigolds to use in your garden include: African, French, Triploid and Signet. African marigolds, which are also referred to as American marigolds are the tallest type. They grow up to 3 feet tall, with large double petaled blooms. Best used in the back of a border. Flower colors range from cream to orange with other yellow shades in the middle. French marigolds are smaller than the African. They grow six to twelve inches tall and have either single or double petaled blooms. Shades range from maroon, to orange to bright yellow and some bi-colored flowers. Triploid hybrids are a cross between the French and African varieties. The plants are a compact twelve inches with large three inch blooms. These are also a seedless variety, so will continue to bloom even without dead heading. Signets are the tiniest of the marigolds. They are bushy plants that grow up to twelve inches and produce masses of tiny colorful flowers.

4. Sunflowers. Sunflowers bloom in a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes. Easily grown from seed, they are perfect to teach children about plants. From giant ten foot tall plants to compact garden varieties, there is sure to be a sunflower that will fit your garden. For the giant size, staking will probably be necessary to keep the flower from toppling over. Often times the flower head itself will grow to over twelve inches across! The garden varieties can have single large blooms on each stem, or be a more bushy plant with many smaller flower heads. If you want sunflowers for cutting, try growing the hybrids with a long single stem.

5. Snapdragons. Snapdragons are available in a wide variety of sizes and colors. They are difficult to grow from seed, so starting out with plants from your local nursery is the easiest way to add them to your garden. There are three typical sizes for snapdragons: dwarf, medium and tall. The dwarf size are twelve inches or shorter. They come in a wide range of colors, but due to their size, are not good for cutting. The intermediate size grows up to eighteen inches. This size is good for cutting flowers for bouquets and for using anywhere in the garden bed. The tall variety of snapdragons grow up to three feet tall. These will require staking to maintain straight stems. These are best to use for the back of the border, or for cutting.

Planting annuals can be a great activity for the whole family. Using any of these annuals can provide months of blooms for cutting, or just enjoying in the garden!

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Gardening

Why You Should Have A Garden Pond

Writen by Anne Clarke

Are you still having some trouble deciding whether or not to add a garden pond to your yard? Well, I am going to try to convince you that you should most definitely have a garden pond.

Here are some of the many benefits and pros to having a garden pond:

· Visual Beauty. There is something about the sight of water that is absolutely mesmerizing. Add a waterfall or water fountain to your garden pond, and you will be hypnotized for days.

· Auditory Beauty. After a stressful day of work, there are few things more soothing than the sound of water gurgling, cascading, or even dripping. Again, a waterfall or water fountain will increase the auditory beauty, just as they will increase the visual beauty.

· Pets. If you add koi to your pond, you are not simply adding a piece of garden decoration, you are adding a pet. It can be very fun and quite intriguing to take care of koi. And if you do get koi for your pond, expect that you will, indeed, have to take care of them as pets. You will need to make sure that they are fed and that the aquatic environment is optimal.

· Gardening. Most garden ponds do not simply consist of a hole filled with water and fish. They also have many aquatic plants and plants surrounding the pond. You can really have fun with gardening and landscaping around the pond.

· Easy installation. You can create a basic garden pond in a day. More complicated ones, with cascading waterfalls, etc. can take much longer. But a basic garden pond is very easy to install. You can just dig a hole and line it with pond liner, or get a set pond hard shell. With a little bit of digging and some water and a few plants… you have got yourself a pond!

· Easy to run. These days, you can get solar pond lights, solar filters, solar pumps, etc., making your pond very easy to run. And since solar power is free, you will have no running costs!

· Interest. There are few things more boring than a backyard that is simply a huge expanse of grass. If you want a grassy field, go to a park! In your own backyard, you have the power to create any sort of environment that you want. Why not make your landscape interesting?

· Getaway. Adding a garden pond to your yard is the first step to creating your own getaway. Once you beautify your yard, you are going to want to spend more and more time in it. It will become the perfect place to go when you want to escape from the rest of the world.

· Guests. Although you should build a garden pond for yourself, it is nice to know that your guests are sure to love it, too. Your garden pond can be the center of many outdoor barbecues and get-togethers. Add a few floating candles to your pond, and you are set to go!

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on garden ponds, please visit Pond Depot.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Seeding Your Lawn Laid Bare

Writen by James Kilkelly

I've never laid carpet, tiles or lino but there is one floor I do know how to lay and that is the carpeting for the outdoor room. I speak of course of the most popular garden ground-cover the lawn.

Prepare before you sow

The best time to sow grass seed is between early April and early September, however you must firstly carry out some preparation. Ideally sometime between March and August you must "burn off" any unwanted growth. Achieve this by spraying all weedy soil areas on a dry day with a herbicide containing the active ingredient Glyphosate. Apply according to the manufacturers instructions and heed safety warnings.

Grading the site

A minimum of 1 month must elapse before you start to grade or level the site, this will allow the spray to reach the roots of weeds such as docks and dandelions. Ensure nothing but light rainfall occurs when you are carrying out soil movement and grading whether it be by hand or machine. This will prevent creating a pan in the soil (a layer of smeared soil or subsoil that water cannot drain through). You must grade the site to an acceptable level without bringing subsoil to the surface; subsoil on the surface has ruined many the new lawns by causing hungry looking brown patches. When grading your soil remove any half buried timber and old tree roots as they will lead to toad stools in the established lawn. Also remove any concrete blocks and large stones; basically remove any debris bigger than your fist.

Fallow before final cultivation

Leave the graded site to settle and regrow any dormant weeds for at least a month then spray the weed growth again with a Glyphosate based herbicide. For the final cultivation give the soil a shallow rotovate or lightly dig it over with a garden fork whilst breaking clods with the back of the fork. Rake to an acceptable level whilst removing all surface debris down to the size of a 1 euro coin including weed stems and roots. The soil should have a nice fine tilth like the texture of cake crumbs; it should not be fine like powder as this will prevent seed germination.

Seed sowing secrets

The ideal situation would be to sow the seed before you get the next heavy shower of rain as at that stage you will begin to loose the soil tilth. You will need approx 40 to 50g of seed per square metre, which can be broadcast by hand or use a wheeled spreader Divide the seed into 2 lots and spread half the seed whilst walking up and down, with the other half being spread whilst walking left and right across the lawn When spreading any seed avoid spreading onto drives, patios and beds. Lightly rake the seed into the soil with a sprung rake, do not drive it in or bury it. Follow this by lightly rolling the area with a half-filled water roller; the idea is to get firm seed and soil contact to ensure germination. Have some extra soil and seed to hand as a hollow or two may show up when rolling, you can then top up the soil and give it a shake of seed. Depending on the weather conditions your seedlings will begin to appear within 2 to 3 weeks.

James Kilkelly runs a professional garden design service in Galway, Ireland. He has a regular gardening column in a Irish regional newspaper. Visit his website at http://www.gardenplansireland.com/

He also regularly posts his expert advice on the gardening forums at http://www.gardenstew.com/

Article's original location: Seeding Your Lawn, Laid Bare

Monday, October 27, 2008

Orchids Care How To Care For Any Kind Of Orchids

Writen by Al Castillo

Most people think that growing orchids are only for people with experience and who have a "green thumbs". They are also under the impression that orchids very delicate, expensive and difficult plant to grow in any environment.

Taken that most common problems surrounding orchids growing is finding the best habitat to raise them in. Light, water, sun and food must readily be available to help your orchids thrive and prosper throughout the bloom.

Some species are born and bred in variety of places including Hawaii and Australia, two predominantly warmer climates.

If you don't have access to these climates there are variations that you can grow that will still provide the beauty and excitement practically exclusive to growing orchids.

Needless to say, growing and maintaining orchids is an art by itself, consider the old Japanese tradition and art of growing bonsai trees, same thing.

Orchids are very easy to care for as long as you take notice of each orchids preferences. These include humidity, light and air, watering and feeding, temperature, and potting. For a recommended website you can go to:

http://www.answerssite.com

What do you do with an orchid once it's done blooming?

When and how often do you repot an orchid?

How much do I water my orchid?

How do you get an orchid to bloom, even if it hasn't bloomed for years?

How long do orchids last?

How often do you fertilize an orchid? And much more!

Orchid Preferences:

Light and Air: Indoor orchids prefer anywhere from no direct light to most of the day - choose an orchid with ...

Humidity: Orchids prefer about 60% humidity...

Watering: Lift your orchid to tell when to water. If it is light, bring it to the ...

Temperature: This is a biggie! Some like it warmer than others. Some like it ...

Potting: Pot or repot every 1-2 years. One good way to tell when to repot is...

Pests: It is possible to go either the natural route for pests or the unnatural route. Getting a bottle of some kind of ...

What is the easiest orchid to grow?

The answer to that question depends on whether you are looking for something to grow indoors or outdoors.

Phalaenopsis are among the easiest and most rewarding orchids to grow. An American Orchid Society demographic survey showed that Phalaenopsis have become America's favorite orchid. The plants adapt well to the environment of the home or office. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 tp 3 months.

Odontoglossum and Oncidium intergeneric hybrids are comprised of a large group of orchids from many different genera. The Odontoglossum/Oncidium alliance is very popular among orchid growers due to their cultural flexibility and striking sprays of long-lasting flowers. The plants may be grown with relative ease in the home or on a sheltered patio.

And much more! you can find out by visiting:

http://www.answerssite.com

Al Castillo
Internet Marketing Researcher.

http://www.answerssite.com

Orchids are very easy to care for as long as you take notice of each orchids preferences.

Garden Success In Southcentral Alaska Part 1 Of 3

Writen by Ann Roberts

Many gardeners, newly transplanted to Alaska, have despaired of ever growing more than greens that bolt to seed before they're worth picking, seedlings that just sit (waiting for warmer weather), or plants killed by frost before they can produce. The lesson? Gardening in Alaska is different from the "lower 49" states. But by learning a few things about those differences, any Southcentral or Kenai Peninsula gardener can find gardening success. And many of the lessons learned here can help others who garden in far northern states, or even Canada.
A few challenges gardeners face in this area of Alaska are naturally cool weather, cold soil, and, paradoxically, too much daylight! Fortunately, solutions are close at hand—a combination of soil warming techniques and careful variety selection.

Cool Weather
Little can be done about weather, though soil warming techniques will help a little, and variety selection (covered later) is very important. The Matanuska Valley may have lush lawns because of more rain, but don't think you can skip watering – Anchorage actually only averages a few inches more water per season than Fairbanks; it is cloud cover that makes the difference. Cloud cover ensures heat accumulation remains low in Southcentral and many plants will need greenhouse protection to mature here. The lower Kenai Peninsula stores up even fewer "heating degree days".

Permafrost and Cold Soil
In Southcentral and Southeastern Alaska permafrost (ground that remains frozen all summer) occurs only sporadically, in isolated and often widely separated masses. A boggy or swampy surface may indicate the ground is too frozen to allow drainage. But if the surface insulation (often peat moss) is removed, the permafrost can then melt down to a level that permits good natural drainage. Unfortunately, soils in Alaska are cold even where there is no permafrost at all!

10 Soil-Warming Tips
The most frequent recommendations for soil warming are:

  • raised beds
  • clear plastic
  • lightening heavy soils
(These three will be discussed in more detail in part 2)
Other home gardening possibilities are planting in the sunniest spot, using greenhouses or hot frames, putting Styrofoam® insulating boards and/or heat tapes below the plants' root zone, and utilizing solar collectors. If possible, water with tempered (warmed) water.
For vegetables not under plastic, sprinkler irrigation is most often recommended for Alaska, as warm air helps warm sprinkler water. Avoid sprinkling beans, which are particularly susceptible to soil-born disease organisms, spread by splattering water drops.

Ann D Roberts is the author of Alaska Gardening Guide Vol 1, covering cold weather gardening in Alaska, with specific growing tips for vegetables. The book, written and published in Alaska, is in its third printing and is already the "definitive and indispensable reference guide to every Alaskan gardener." Readers can check out its table of contents at http://AlaskaGardeningGuide.com. Ann is presently working on Vol 2, covering perennials and lawns. This article may be freely reprinted in its entirety, including this last paragraph.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Planting Your Garden

Writen by Michael Russell

If you read the previous articles on "Planning The Basics" and "Planning The Planting", you will have planned the structural bits of your garden, e.g. the boundary, buildings, climber support and hard landscaping and you will have decided what plants you want to grow. If you have built raised beds, you now have somewhere to put your plants, otherwise, you probably have some earthy bits, with or without weeds so let's make a start.

Prepare the Ground

  • Dig and turn over the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches (30 cm), preferably double that if you propose to plant small trees or shrubs, and remove weeds and grass.
  • Test the soil with a kit which you can buy from any garden centre. If your soil is alkaline (i.e. has lime in it) you will not be able to grow plants of the same family as rhododendrons and heathers without adjusting the pH but in general an average acidity will support most plants. The acidity or alkalinity of the soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). As a rule of thumb, soils in moist climates inclines towards the acid and those in dry climates tend to be alkaline. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline. To raise the pH and make soil more alkaline, add lime and to make it more acid (lower the pH), add sulphur. Proprietary products are available to alter the soil pH. Follow the manufacturers' instructions for dosage and application carefully. If the pH is average and you don't want to grow anything special, don't try to adjust it.
  • No matter what type your soil, it will need nourishment and structure so add some all-purpose fertilizer and some compost and dig it in well. If the soil is very sticky (clay content), add some bark or grit to allow drainage. If the soil is very fine and sandy, add some peat.
  • Level out the ground with a rake.
  • If you made a plan on paper, place your plants on the ground, still in their pots, accordingy to your plan. If you don't have a plan already, now is the time to make one.

Prepare the Planting Holes

It is best for the plants if you don't do this in the heat of the midday sun, so choose evening time or a cloudy day.

The following works for almost any plant which has already been grown on in a pot as well as rhizomes and tubers (e.g. dahlias).

  • Starting at the back of a bed, dig a hole for plant number one, approximately three times the width and twice the depth of the pot.
  • To the soil which you have removed, add lots of compost and peat plus a small handful of granular fertiliser. Mix the whole lot together with a spade and put enough back in the bottom of the hole such that the rim of the pot reaches the top of the hole.
  • Gently remove the plant from its pot. Hold the base of the stem, turn the pot upside down and tap the bottom until you feel the plant loosening. Don't drop it!
  • Tease out the ends of the roots from the root ball very carefully, unless the planting instructions specifically tell you not to disturb the roots, in which case, leave them as they are.
  • Pop the plant into the centre of the hole and making sure it stays upright, shovel in more of the soil, compost, fertilizer mixture.
  • With your foot, very very gently, firm down the soil around the plant until it reaches the point where the rim of the pot was.
  • Water in very well. If you live in a hot climate, insert a watering drip system as you plant each item.
  • Mulch around the plant with compost, bark or gravel to keep weeds down and moisture in.
  • Sit back and enjoy your garden!


    -------------------------------------------------------
    Michael Russell
    Your Independent guide to Gardening
    -------------------------------------------------------

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Teak Outdoor Furniture

Writen by Marcus Peterson

Outdoor furniture, used to beautify the outdoor areas adjoining a house, can be made of iron, steel, bamboo, and teak. Even though teak outdoor furniture is more expensive than other hardwood furniture, most customers prefer teak to any other material. Teak outdoor furniture can sustain its strength and attractiveness for decades. It has the ability to withstand rust and corrosion when in contact with metal.

Benches, tables, chairs, lamps, planters and other ornaments for the garden, poolside, backyard, deck, and park decoration are counted among teak outdoor furniture. Teak garden furniture is best suited for improving garden settings. Teak patio furniture includes benches, dining tables, dining chairs, bar table, bar chair, steamers, and more.

The natural color of teak outdoor furniture may fade if constantly exposed to wind. A periodic application of teak oil helps to maintain the natural color.

Style, price, material, comfort, and size are the factors to consider when purchasing teak outdoor furniture. An extensive collection of fine, attractive, unique teak outdoor furniture is available, and can be found at reasonable prices. Custom designed teak outdoor furniture can also be ordered from various sources. Teak outdoor furniture is ideal for hotels and banks. Teak outdoor chairs, teak tables, teak benches, teak steamer chairs, teak stacking chairs, teak folding chairs, teak outdoor folding tables, teak rectangular tables, teak extendable tables, and other garden accessories impart an elegant and classy look to any place.

Country Casual, Kingsley Bate, Rock Wood, and Wood Classics are some of the leading manufacturers of teak outdoor furniture. Considerable artistic dexterity is needed to make outstanding teak furniture. Well-designed, chic teak furniture is perhaps the best choice in outdoor furnishings.

Teak Furniture provides detailed information on Teak Furniture, Teak Patio Furniture, Teak Outdoor Furniture, Teak Garden Furniture and more. Teak Furniture is affiliated with Wicker Patio Furniture.

Lady Bugs Are Your 1 Natural Pest Control

Writen by James Ellison

First, this bug has many names. Some of it's names are:

lady bugs
ladybugs
lady beetle
asiatic lady beetle
Asian Lady Beetle
Asian Lady Bugs
Multicolored Asian Lady Beetle

The Ladybird Beetle is the correct name for a Lady bug and are not bugs but are beetles. Worldwide there are nearly 5,000 different kinds of ladybugs of which 400 are found in North America. The Convergent Lady Beetle is the most common beneficial species of Ladybird beetle in North America.

The life cycle of all Lady Bugs are mainly the same. The eggs are laid in the spring. When they hatch the larvae will feed for a couple of weeks and then pupate into adults. During the winter they will hibernate or will have died in the fall. Springtime they awake to feed and lay more eggs again.

As a form of biological pest control Lady Bugs are widely used and are the best known. Besides eating their favorite food aphids they also eat mites, scales, whitefly, mealybugs and most other soft insects. They are known to eat cabbage moths, bollworms, tomato hornworms and broccoli worms. These bugs will eat up to 1,000 aphids in it's lifetime in both their larvae and adult stages.

The most common complaint against the Lady Bug is that when they are released they will fly off and let the aphids have their feast with your roses and tomato plants. But really only a part of your release will venture off, the rest will eat all the aphids they can find and then maybe fly off.

-There are a couple of tricks you can do to keep your Ladybugs-

1. Only release the ladybugs in the evening since they are not known to fly at night when it is cooler.

2. Take a can of soda and mix it with equal amounts of water and spray on the Lady Bugs just before you release them. The sugar will make the wings sticky for just a couple days so they will hang around at least for awhile and eat the pests. Since Lady Beetles claim certain areas home they will stay in your yard and make it their home and the females will start laying eggs in and around your garden.

-What about Lady Beetles in the house-

We are glad to have these beetles hang around and control the pests just like mother nature intended.If they stay at your place over winter they will look for a nice cozy place to stay and that is where your home comes into the picture.

These bugs don't seem to have any logic to picking a house they just have found yours and they like it there. In the yard and garden they were welcome guests, in your home not so welcome. What we want to do is ask the lady bugs to leave. They don't speak our language.

-So a few suggestions to try-

1. Get out your vacuum cleaner and find the hose attachment.

2. Get a nylon stocking and place it inside the hose with the top of the stocking overlapping the end of the hose and place the hose attachment end nozzle on this to keep the stocking on.

3. Start the vacuum and get the bugs cleaned up. This will keep the bugs alive and then you can take them outside and release in another area away from your home. Refrigerate for next spring or give them to a friend with a green house.

The ladybugs may be a problem outside the house also, help them relocate by:

1. Spray water at them with the garden hose.

2. Use your leaf blower and blow them away.

3. Upset the lady bugs and eventually they will move on to another location.

Needless to say they are a very beneficial bug, but for some people bugs are not their favorite. They can be helpful and at the same time create a problem. What we need to do is learn to live with our tiny friends and make sure they stay around.

James has been a gardening enthusiast for 40 years and converted to organic gardening for 10 years. To learn more about organic gardening go to: http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com

Friday, October 24, 2008

Herbal Medicine Chest In Your Backyard

Writen by Susun Weed

What could be easier than growing an herb garden with no effort? Of course, you'll have to harvest your weeds, but you would do that anyhow: it's called weeding.

Spring is an especially fertile time for harvesting your weeds - roots and all - and turning them into medicines. Here then are some tips on how to find, harvest, prepare, and use a baker's dozen (13) of common weeds that probably already grow around you.

To make your medicines you'll need glass jars of various sizes with tight-fitting lids. And at least a pint each of apple cider vinegar (pasteurized), vodka (100 proof is best, but 80 proof will do), and pure olive oil (not extra virgin) or good quality animal fat such as lanolin, lard, or belly fat from a lamb or kid. You will also want a knife, a cutting board, and some rags to mop up spills.

In general, you will fill a jar (of any size) with coarsely-chopped fresh, but dry, plant material. (Do not wash any part of the plant except roots, if you are using them, and be sure to dry those well with a towel before putting them in your jar.) Then you will fill the jar with your menstruum, that is the vinegar, the oil, or the alcohol. Label well and allow to stand at room temperature, out of the sunlight for at least six weeks before decanting and using. (See my book Healing Wise for more specific information on making preparations.)

A field guide is helpful for positively identifying your weeds. The one I like best is: A Guide to the Identification of New Zealand Common Weeds in Colour, complied by E. A. Upritchard. (Available from the New Zealand Weed And Pest Control Society, P.O. Box 1654, Palmerston North) This book even shows you how the weeds look when they are emerging.

Ready? OK! Let's go outside and see what we can find.

Shepherd's purse (Capsella bursa pastoris) is an annual in the mustard family. Cut the top half of the plant when it has formed its little heart-shaped "purses" (seed pods) and make a tincture (with alcohol), which you can use to stop bleeding. Midwives and women who bleed heavily during their period praise its prompt effectiveness. Gypsies claim it works on the stomach and lungs as well. A dose is 1 dropperful (1ml); which may be repeated up to four times a day.

Cleavers (Gallium aparine) is a persistent, sticky plant which grows profusely in abandoned lots and the edges of cultivated land. The entire plant is used to strengthen lymphatic activity. I cut the top two-thirds of each plant while it is in flower (or setting seeds) and use alcohol to make a tincture which relieves tender, swollen breasts, PMS symptoms, and allergic reactions. A dose is 15-25 drops (.5 - 1 ml); repeated as needed.

Chickweed (Stellaria media) has many uses, including delicious salad greens. I cut the entire top of the plant and eat it or use alcohol to make a tincture, which dissolves cysts, tonifies the thyroid, and aids in weight loss. A dose is a dropperful (1 ml), up to three times a day.

Daisy (Bellis perennis) is a common perennial weed of lawns and open areas. Quite different from the native daisy (Lagenifera petiolata), the little English daisy is related to feverfew and has similar abilities. I use the leaves and flowers to make a tincture (with alcohol) or a medicinal vinegar which relieves headaches, muscle pain, and allergy symptoms. A dose is a dropperful of the tincture (1 ml), up to twice a day; or a tablespoon of the vinegar in the morning.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinalis) is a persistent perennial of lawns and gardens and one of the best known medicinal herbs in the world. (The native dandelion of New Zealand - Taraxacum magellanicum - is medicinal too.) Those who love a pure green lawn curse the sunny yellow flowers of common dandelion. But those who are willing to see beauty anywhere (such as children and herbalists) treasure this weed. You can use any part of the dandelion - the root, the leaves, the flowers, even the flower stalk - to make a tincture or medicinal vinegar which strengthens the liver. A dose of 10-20 drops of the tincture (.5-1 ml) relieves gas, heartburn, and indigestion, as well as promoting healthy bowel movements. A tablespoon of the vinegar works well, too. More importantly, taken before meals, dandelion increases the production of hydrochloric acid in the stomach, thus increasing bio-availability of many nutrients, especially calcium. The fresh or cooked green leaves are loaded with carotenes, those anti-cancer, anti-heart disease helpers. And the oil of the flowers is an important massage balm for maintaining healthy breasts. (There's lots more information on dandelions in Healing Wise.)

Dock, also called yellow dock, curly dock, and broad dock is a perennial plant, which my Native American grandmothers use for "all women's problems." The Maori call it paewhenua or runa. It is another plant that disagrees with sheep, especially when the land is overgrazed. I dig the yellow roots of Rumex crispus or R. obtusifolius and tincture them in alcohol to use as an ally when the immune system or the liver needs help. A dose is 15-25 drops (.5-1 ml). I also harvest the leaves and/or seeds throughout the growing season and make a medicinal vinegar, taken a tablespoon at a time, which is used to increase blood-levels of iron, reduce menstrual flooding and cramping, and balance hormone levels. If the chopped roots are soaked in oil for six weeks, the resulting ointment is beneficial for keeping the breasts healthy.

Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris) and Ragwort (Senecio jacobea) are hardy perennials that have a reputation for poisoning livestock, like their cousin tansy. Although not good for sheep, these two Senecios are some of the world's most ancient healing plants, having been found in a grave 60,000 years old. You can use the flowering tops and leaves with your alcohol to make a tincture which acts slowly to tonify the reproductive organs, ease PMS, and stop severe menstrual pain. A dose is 5-10 drops (.2-.5 ml) per day, used only once a day, but for at least 3 months. (A larger dose is used to speed up labor.)

Mallows (Malva neglecta, M. parviflora, M. sylvestres) grow well in neglected gardens and are surprisingly deep-rooted. The flowers, leaves, stalks, seeds, and roots are rich in sticky mucilage which is best extracted by soaking the fresh plant in cold water overnight or longer or by making a medicinal vinegar. The starch is extraordinarily soothing internally (easing sore throats, upset tummies, heart burn, irritable bowel, colic, constipation, and food poisoning) and externally (relieving bug bites, burns, sprains, and sore eyes). The leaves, flowers, and bark (especially) of the native Hohere (Hoheria populnea) are used in exactly the same way by Maori herbalists.

Plantain, also called ribwort, pig's ear, and the bandaid plant is a common weed of lawns, driveways, parks, and playgrounds. Identify it by the five parallel veins running the length of each leaf. You may find broad leaf plantain (Plantago major) with wide leaves, or narrow leaf plantain (Plantago lanceolata) with lance-thin leaves. Either can be used to make a healing poultice or a soothing oil widely regarded as one of the best wound healers around. Not only does plantain increase the speed of healing, it also relieves pain, stops bleeding, draws out foreign matter, stops itching, prevents and stops allergic reactions from bee stings, kills bacteria, and reduces swelling.

Try a poultice or a generous application of plantain oil or ointment (made by thickening the oil with beeswax) on sprains, cuts, insect bites, rashes, chafed skin, boils, bruises, chapped and cracked lips, rough or sore hands, baby's diaper area, and burns.

To make a fresh plantain poultice: Pick a leaf, chew it well and put it on the boo-boo. "Like magic" the pain, itching, and swelling disappear, fast! (Yes, you can dry plantain leaves and carry them in your first aid kit. Chew like you would fresh leaves.)

To make plantain ointment: Pick large fresh plantain leaves. Chop coarsely. Fill a clean, dry, glass jar with the chopped leaves. Pour pure olive oil into the leaves, poking about with a chopstick until the jar is completely full of oil and all air bubbles are released. Cap well. Place jar in a small bowl to collect any overflow. Wait six weeks. Then strain oil out of the plant material, squeezing well. Measure the oil. Heat it gently, adding one tablespoon of grated beeswax for every liquid ounce of oil. Pour into jars and allow to cool.

St. Joan's/John's wort (Hypericum perforatum) This beautiful perennial wildflower may be hated by sheep farmers but herbalists adore it. The flowering tops are harvested after they begin to bloom (traditionally on Solstice, June 21) and prepared with alcohol, and with oil, to make two of the most useful remedies in my first aid kit. Tincture of St. Joan's wort not only lends one a sunny disposition, it reliably relieves muscle aches, is a powerful anti-viral, and is my first-choice treatment for those with shingles, sciatica, backpain, neuralgia, and headaches including migraines. The usual dose is 1 dropperful (1 ml) as frequently as needed. In extreme pain from a muscle spasm in my thigh, I used a dropperful every twenty minutes for two hours, or until the pain totally subsided. St. Joan's wort oil stops cold sores in their tracks and can even relieve genital herpes symptoms. I use it as a sunscreen. Contrary to popular belief, St. Joan's wort does not cause sun sensitivity; it prevents it. It even prevents burns from radiation therapy. Eases sore muscles, too.

Self heal (Prunella vulgaris) This scentless perennial mint is one of the great unsung healers of the world. The leaves and flowers contain more antioxidants - which prevent cancer and heart disease, among other healthy traits - than any other plant tested. And as part of the mint family, self heal is imbued with lots of minerals, especially calcium, making it an especially important ally for pregnant, nursing, menopausal, and post-menopausal women. I put self heal leaves in salads in the spring and fall, make a medicinal vinegar with the flowers during the summer, and cook the flowering tops (fresh or dried) in winter soups.

Usnea (Usnea barbata) is that many-stranded grey lichen hanging out of the branches of your apple trees or the Monterey pines planted in the plantation over there or in almost any native tree in areas of the South Island Alps, where it is known as angiangi to the Maori. If in doubt of your identification: Pull a strand gently apart with your hands, looking for a white fiber inside the fuzzy grey-green outer coat. To prepare usnea, harvest at any time of the year, being careful not to take too much. Usnea grows slowly. Put your harvest in a cooking pan and just cover it with cold water. Boil for about 15-25 minutes, or until the water is orange and reduced by at least half. Pour usnea and water into a jar, filling it to the top with plant material. (Water should be no more than half of the jar.) Add the highest proof alcohol you can buy. After 6 weeks this tincture is ready to work for you as a superb antibacterial, countering infection anywhere in the body. A dose is a dropperful (1 ml) as frequently as every two hours in acute situations.

Yarrow (Achellia millefolium) This lovely perennial weed is grown in many herb gardens for it has a multitude of uses. Cut the flowering tops (use only white-flowering yarrow) and use your alcohol to make a strongly-scented tincture that you can take internally to prevent colds and the flu. (A dose is 10-20 drops, or up to 1 ml). I carry a little spray bottle of yarrow tincture with me when I'm outside and wet my skin every hour or so. A United States Army study showed yarrow tincture to be more effective than DEET at repelling ticks, mosquitoes, and sand flies. You can also make a healing ointment with yarrow flower tops and your oil or fat. Yarrow oil is antibacterial, pain-relieving, and incredibly helpful in healing all types of wounds.

For more information on making preparations and on the uses of specific herbs, consult Susun's books: Healing Wise, Wise Woman Herbal for the Childbearing Year, Menopausal Years the Wise Woman Way, and Breast Cancer? Breast Health! The Wise Woman Way.

Susun Weed
PO Box 64
Woodstock, NY 12498
Fax: 1-845-246-8081

Vibrant, passionate, and involved, Susun Weed has garnered an international reputation for her groundbreaking lectures, teachings, and writings on health and nutrition. She challenges conventional medical approaches with humor, insight, and her vast encyclopedic knowledge of herbal medicine. Unabashedly pro-woman, her animated and enthusiastic lectures are engaging and often profoundly provocative.

Susun is one of America's best-known authorities on herbal medicine and natural approaches to women's health. Her four best-selling books are recommended by expert herbalists and well-known physicians and are used and cherished by millions of women around the world. Learn more at http://www.susunweed.com

Thursday, October 23, 2008

How To Grow Cauliflowers

Writen by Terry Blackburn

Growing Cauliflowers

Cauliflowers originated in southern Europe. They are not the easiest vegetable to grow which puts many off the idea of even attempting to try this wonderful tasty crop. The soil must be healthy; it demands that the soil is sweet, with a pH range of 6.5 - 7.5, deeply dug with a very high fertility level. Anything that slows down the growth, such as insects, lack of water, excessive heat or cold, may prevent the development of the head.

Soil Preparation

Sandy loam is preferable with an enrichment of well-rotted manure and compost at a rate of one bucketful to the sq. yd. It is an advantage if cauliflowers follow a well-manured crop like potatoes or peas; doing this the ground will be firmer and in good condition. If the soil is not already chalky or limy after the initial soil preparation, apply carbonate of lime as a top dressing at the rate of 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd.

About ten days before planting, apply a fertilizer such as fish manure, bone meal at the rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. You may also add some wood ash or sulphate of potash at 1 oz. (30g) to the sq. yd.

Sowing

Make the first sowing in January, keeping them on staging in a greenhouse at a temperature of 50 deg. F. (10 deg C.). When the seedlings come through, prick out and replant into pots containing similar soil. At the beginning of March put the pots out into a frame to harden the plants off; let them get acclimatised to the outside atmosphere until the end of March, then transplant them into the bed where they are to mature. Make the second sowing in late April thinly into moist, firm soil, in frames, which should be as similar to John Innes compost as possible. Keep the frame closed until germination takes place then allow a little ventilation on mild days. When the seedlings come through, prick out and replant into pots containing similar soil; these will be ready to plant out in June.

The third sowing is made in May, in the seedbed in a sunny, sheltered position. Make drills about ½ in. (12mm) deep and sow the seeds thinly. After covering the seeds make sure that the soil is firmed over with the head of a rake. It is important to remember that whenever cauliflowers are transplanted they must be planted shallowly, if the base of the leaves are buried it will deform the plant and they will not develop the centres.

Planting

During the growing period many old gardeners would give their cauliflowers a dressing of soot, but in this modern era of gas, electric, and for that matter solar powered heating, it is unlikely that this substance is available to the majority of today's gardeners. Instead, dried blood at a rate of 2 oz. (60g) to the sq. yd. can be given.

Harvesting

Always cut the cauliflowers early in the morning whilst the curds are moist with dew. If a number of curds appear to be ready at the same time and they are not all required at once, break the midribs of two or three of the centre leaves on each plant that is not needed so that they cover the curd like an umbrella and protect it for a few days until they are required. The cauliflower will keep however for about three weeks if it is pulled up, including roots, and hung upside down in a dry shed.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Rosemary The Herb Of Remembrance And Friendship

Writen by Gwen Stewart

Rosmarinus officinalis, commonly called rosemary is an aromatic herb indigenous to the Mediterranean area. Rosemary is traditionally known as the herb of remembrance and friendship. Also known as Mary's mantle and compass weed, rosemary is a lovely, sweet scented, shrubby perennial in Mediterranean countries that can be grown as an annual in Northern climates or as an indoor potted plant. Rosemary has needlelike leaves and delicate light blue flowers. Mature plants can live for over 30 years.

Rosemary grows best in full sun but will tolerate semi-shade. This plant grows best in light, well-drained soil. Let rosemary become moderately dry between waterings, as root rot can be a problem in soggy soils. Mist the leaves every second week. Rosemary grows 3 – 6 feet (1 – 2 m) tall outdoors. Indoors, rosemary benefits by harvesting tip cuttings that will keep the plant fuller and bushier. Rosemary's leaves are dark green on top with silvery undersides.

Rosemary is slow to germinate and grow from seed so it is best to buy plants or propagate rosemary from stem cuttings. If you are growing this herb indoors, rosemary thrives when moved outdoors for the summer. Leave rosemary in pots in the garden as it seems to be able to adjust to moving back in-doors more successfully. Move back indoors before the first frost, check for insects, and if there is an infestation, spray with a soap and water spray.

Rosemary requires at least 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. If you are growing rosemary on a windowsill, turn regularly to ensure every side receives light. If you are growing rosemary under lights, hang fluorescent lights 6 inches (15 cm) above the plants and leave on for 12 hours.

In the garden, rosemary deters cabbage moth, bean beetles, and carrot fly when planted near cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage. In Italy, rosemary is the preferred herb with lamb, veal, and poultry particularly when simmered with olive oil, garlic, and wine. Rosemary should always be used with lamb as it enhances the meat with incomparable flavour. Other uses in the kitchen include tomato dishes, stews, soups, vegetable dishes, pork, rabbit, sausages, fish, shellfish, finely chopped in custards, egg dishes, pickles, jellies, jams, cakes, cookies, salads, and is an essential ingredient in herb breads and biscuits, including focaccia, the classic Italian bread. Rosemary can be added to the cooking water to enliven cauliflower, potatoes, green beans, and peas. Marinades for fish and meats as well as minestrone, chicken, and pea soups benefit from the addition of rosemary. Rosemary has a strong flavour so use sparingly. Leaves, stems, and flowers are all edible. To release the flavour of dried leaves, crush them just before using. Rosemary stems can be used for herb skewers by stripping the leaves and threading vegetables or tender cuts of meat on the stems for broiling.

Rosemary can be kept in the fridge for a few days either in plastic bags or with the stems immersed in water. The leaves can be dried by hanging fresh sprigs in a warm, dry place. Strip off leaves before storing.

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and the booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Products. She owns the website Gwen's Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the books and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca

Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2005. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Tips You Need To Know On Building A Gazebo

Writen by Dion Semeniuk

Do you enjoy working on home improvement projects? Are you thinking about building a gazebo, a place where you can relax or entertain? If so, you can save money while experiencing the gratification of a do-it-yourself project. The thing is when it comes to how to build a gazebo, where do you get started! You will find online resources one of the best places to get started. In addition to finding gazebo kits, you can also find a wide selection of gazebo plans.

In this article, we have pulled together some great tips for how to build a gazebo. Now, if you were to buy a kit, everything needed would be included. For instance, a kit comes with the lumber, plans, hardware, trim, and any other materials needed for a beautiful creation. However, if you want to purchase the materials yourself but you need some help with design, then plans are the way to go. In this case, you can pay for plans or find some free ones online. If you happen to be someone extraordinarily talented, you might come up with your own design, starting completely by scratch.

When it comes to how to build a gazebo, the best ways to a successful finish it to learn from other people's mistakes. After all, nothing is worse than to start building something, only to be halfway done, discovering you missed a very important step. Unfortunately, this happens all too often. Therefore, we recommend you start with plans you understand. If you have questions, make sure the company from which you purchased the plans has a customer support group that can answer questions or walk you through a particular step.

Then, make sure you do not over or under build your gazebo. To accomplish this, you want to determine the location and then determine the appropriate size. The proper way for how to build a gazebo is to know exactly what your property will accommodate.

In addition, you need to consider the purpose of the gazebo. For example, some people might build one simply for an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life whereas another person might entertain weekly with lavish parties.

Of course, the aesthetics of the gazebo are also an important factor. In this case, do you want the gazebo to be the showcase for your property or do you want it to blend in quietly with the background? Another factor is the seasons. Sometimes, people forget about this when they look at how to build a gazebo. To give you idea of what we mean, if you have property with many trees, you can be sure come fall the ground will be covered with leaves – tons of leaves. If your gazebo is placed directly in the middle of that, then you might spend more time cleaning than relaxing.

To understand the exact steps of how to build a gazebo, check out online websites such as www.plansnow.com, www.diynetwork.com, and www.gazeboplans.info, all excellent resources for plans and information. Typically, you can expect that as a part of how to build a gazebo, you will want the best materials you can afford and patience. Be sure to weigh the pros and cons of each step. For example, wood is gorgeous but it can also experience wood rot, termites, and warping. For a little more money, you could go with vinyl, which looks like real wood, can be painted, and best of all, does not have the same challenges you see with wood.

Dion Semeniuk has developed experience into transforming your backyard into your very own resort. To learn how the gazebo can achieve this, visit the Gazebo website.

Outdoor Fireplace Design

Writen by Josh Riverside

The trend of building outdoor fire pits and fireplaces is catching on at a fast pace. Outdoor fireplaces come in many designs and themes and are available in portable and custom models. Outdoor fireplaces are to be built according to local codes, which usually specify the firebricks to be used. Two important factors are safe design and ventilation.

Any outdoor fireplace design is similar to that of an indoor fireplace. One exception is that dampers are not used in outdoor fireplaces. A tall chimney, the major component of any fixed type outdoor fireplace, provides shelter from the smoke. Mexican style chimney pots called chimeneas are a beautiful addition. Outdoor fireplaces may be designed with a bowl-shaped base with a single opening connected to a stack or chimney. It circulates air into the fire and emits smoke out of the top of the stack. Etched cast iron, aluminum, or clay and terracotta are used as raw materials for fireplace construction. Cast-iron and cast aluminum outdoor fireplaces are durable and resist roaring flames and high temperatures.

Lavers and Fire Rings are low cost, decorative portable fireplaces that can be moved with ease from one place to another. Integrated fireplaces are another option and these maybe freestanding or attached. English, Eastern brick, Southwestern adobe, or Old World traditional are among the popular designs and themes.

An outdoor fireplace has a crown, overmantel, mantel shelf, header, filler panel, fire box, leg, plinth base, and hearth. Some models use the combined form of mantel shelf and header.

Masonry construction is more durable than metal or prefabricated fireboxes, which may rust when exposed to rain or snow. Fire Rock's pre-engineered fireplace system is faster and less-expensive than hand-built, brick and mortar structures. In this case, the raw materials are available in a kit, and the homeowner can install the fireplace easily. The newly constructed fireplace is then covered with the finishing material such as brick, stone, stucco or manufactured stone.

Outdoor Fireplaces provides detailed information on Outdoor Fireplaces, Outdoor Gas Fireplace, Outdoor Stone Fireplace, Outdoor Fireplace Plan and more. Outdoor Fireplaces is affiliated with Natural Waterfalls.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Developing The Perfect Landscaping Idea

Writen by David Dunlap

Using landscaping ideas can be an effective way to attract wildlife, such as birds, to your yard and neighborhood. Thoughtfully placing bird feeders or houses around your yard can make it an inviting environment for different types of bird species. There are several advantages to utilizing landscaping ideas to increase wildlife populations around your home.

First, if these birds are spending time nesting in your yard, the less of a chance they will have to be eaten, killed, or harmed in some way. While they are there, your yard serves as a safe haven. The more they come to your yard and the longer they stay, the more protection they will have against predators and hunters.

The second advantage of trying out different landscaping ideas to attract wildlife populations to your yard is that you can enjoy bird watching with your children, grandchildren, or spouse. Bird watching is a wonderful pastime and can also be educational. You and your children can enjoy watching these magnificent creatures and at the same time you can let them in on little facts about each species.

Not only that, but you and your children or grandchildren can also use what you learn to do projects together, like making homemade birdfeeders to go along with the bird houses you put together using your landscaping ideas. Now, that is family time that you can be proud of. It sure beats watching TV, where there is no interaction with one another.

Lastly, another great reason to attract birds to your yard using landscaping ideas is because you can take beautiful photographs of every species and put together a wonderful book to share with your friends. Maybe you will even get enough to enter a few wildlife photography contests!

When looking for landscaping ideas, it is always best to visit a site you can trust to help you out. My personal recommendation is www.thelandscapingpro.com, it will help you with all of your needs.

Remember, a beautiful and inviting yard will draw more wildlife to your neighborhood then you ever could have imagined.

David Dunlap is the founder and owner of The Landscaping Pro, an online resource guide for every landscaping project. For more information, send an email to david@thelandscapingpro.com

Discover The Art Of Topiary

Writen by Hugh Harris-Evans

Topiary is the art of creating ornamental shapes by trimming and training shrubs and trees. A skilled person can reproduce almost any design that you can imagine by careful pruning and training the plant or shrub. Common designs range from globes and pyramids to animals and birds.

The art or craft of topiary has been practised for nearly 2000 years. The first recorded examples come from Ancient Rome as described by Pliny in one of his letters. He tells of clipped box obelisks and animals at his villa in Tuscany. After a long period of neglect the craft was revived at the time of the renaissance when formal shapes were used to complement the clipped hedges of the parterres and knot gardens.

In the intervening years topiary has come and gone in and out of fashion at regular intervals. In the eighteenth century the natural style was all the rage and formal gardens with clipped bushes gave way to informal plantings of groves and shrubberies joined by meandering paths. The nineteenth century saw a revival and Horatio Hollis Hunnewell was one of the first in America to create a garden at Wellesley, Massachusetts with trees trained into cones, globes, pyramids and layered tiers.

Enthusiasm for garden restoration and period gardens has encouraged the taste for topiary which is now as popular as ever. From large plantings in stately homes to small groups in the average sized garden, examples of topiary can be found all over the world.

Many different plants and trees can be used for topiary. Those with small leaves and a compact growth habit will be the easiest with which to work. Buxus, as used for box hedges, is probably one of the best, certainly for small scale designs.

The methods employed to create a topiary design depend both on the complexity of the subject and the skill of the gardener. Geometric shapes such as globes and pyramids can be guaged by eye but it is best to mark out the outlines first.

More complicated designs usually require a wire frame which will remain in place. For instance a spiral design needs a frame so that the shrub can be trained to the correct shape. Wire frames are produced in a large variety of shapes and sizes both for geometric and animal designs. Many are constructed in two halves joined with a hinge so that they can easily be fitted over the shrub which can then be trimmed to shape.

As I have tried to show the art and craft of topiary is thriving today and can be a distinctive feature of any garden or yard. Even if you do not feel confident enough to try and grow your own, there are plenty of established specimens that you can buy from garden centers and nurseries. However the use of a wire frame makes the task so simple that I would encourage everyone to give it a try.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews. http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Friday, October 17, 2008

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Monday, October 13, 2008

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Friday, October 10, 2008

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Landscaping With Rocks

Writen by Ian Henman

Have you ever considered landscaping with rocks? Not only does this add some texture to your garden, but it is also very attractive and doesn't have to cost the earth. The beauty of using rocks is that you don't necessarily have to spend a lot on materials, as you might already find you have a wide variety of rocks on your land to begin with.

My wife and I decided to go for landscaping with rocks because we were constantly turning up stones in our garden. The stones came in all manner of shapes and sizes which made it easy to create deep and meaningful displays in simple arrangements.

The first idea we had was to knock up a circle of stones around the four small trees towards the right hand corner or our back yard. Landscaping with rocks around each of the trees really helped to define the space. Each tree had its own little collection of stones circling it, a bit over two feet in diameter.

After that success, we decided to use the flat rocks we kept finding to make a walkway. We found this to be quite different from the tree design, because of the sheer time and effort that was required to uncover the stones and arrange them suitably, particularly because of the bad weather we were experiencing at the time.

Next, We laid a sheet of plastic over the grass and weeds growing by the trees and used the stones we had already laid to weigh it in place. We then put some red mulch over the plastic which gave us a nice, professional look. This high priced look came at very low cost, with the only expenditure being that on the mulch and the plastic sheet.

My wife came up with the idea of digging a small ditch to hammer a spike into numerous parts of the clay earth. This went some way to help the land absorb more water, which was proving to be a problem. We then filled the ditches with gravel and sand, before arranging some stones over the top.

After a great deal of sweat and perseverance, the walkway was completed. This time-consuming task was well worth it in the end and turned out to be quite cheap, apart from the hours of work we put in!

On the whole, landscaping with rocks already in your garden is a cheap way to spruce up your garden and give it a modern feel. The colors and textures of the stones are beautiful and contrasting, and we frequently receive comments from our guests about how nice the garden is looking. We are so happy with our garden now, and especially satisfied that we achieved our goal cheaply and relatively painlessly with resources already on our land.

So why no give it a go yourself. If you're creative, there are so many things you can achieve when landscaping with rocks. It'll save you money, and you'll by happy in yourself, knowing that you've really accomplished something that looks so professional off your own back.

For further tips and information about landscaping with rocks and other gardening and lanscaping ideas please visit our website at Landscaping and Gardening

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Friday, October 3, 2008

How To Build Your Own Backyard Bat Cave

Writen by Doug Gelbert

Wait a minute. You're going to tell me how to attract bats into my yard? The things that fly in your hair and suck your blood?

Well, bats don't fly into anybody's hair and unless you are a Holstein grazing in South America they won't be sucking your blood either. And a single foraging bat will gobble thousands of mosquitoes in a night.

For decades Europeans have practiced insect control with backyard bat boxes, small wooden shelters similar to birdhouses where bats roost. Once established a bat colony can help cripple a local mosquito population.

Not only are bat colonies an ecologically friendly alternative to pesticides but they complement today's organic gardens. Droppings that fall out of a bat house provide excellent fertilizer, high in nitrogen. Unlike electronic bug zappers, bats don't frighten birds from your yard.

And bats need homes. Natural roosts such as caves and hollow tree trunks are increasingly scarce. The average suburban tree does not yield many good places to roost to the inquisitive bypassing bat. Vigilant park workers sever rotten tree limbs and clear hollow and fallen trees in the interests of public safety.

Where is a shelter-seeking bat to turn? "Many bats favor old buildings because they offer nooks and crannies for roosting," says Paul Gorenzel of the University of California-Davis, "but new construction is tighter and doesn't provide good homes." Colonies containing many thousands of free-tailed bats can be found living in buildings or under bridges.

Backyard bat houses are popular alternative roosts. Today the Bat Conservation International of Austin, Texas reports more requests for bat houses than frantic calls about rabid bats. (Few bats contract rabies and if they do, quickly die when sick. Even when rabid these shy animals rarely become aggressive.)

Homeowners extending an invitation to bats will be most successful if their bat house is located near a permanent source of water. Bat houses can be mounted, ideally 20 feet high, on trees or poles but houses attached to building sides provide greater temperature stability. The entrance should be free of obstructions to enable bats to access their new home easily.

A new bat host must be patient waiting for his guests. A year to 18 months is a typical waiting period for a bat colony to roost. Most species are migratory, seeking suitable caves to hibernate through the winter. Hanging a bat house in the fall or winter can prompt occupancy the following spring when migrating bats return.

The little brown bat is the most likely bat to occupy your bat box. This voracious insectivore will feed on aquatic insects, sometimes catching as many as 600 mosquitoes an hour in their wings as they dart through the night sky. The little brown bat often shares its roost with its close relative, the big brown bat. The big brown bat is extremely hardy and can remain active year. It favors beetles for its evening meal.

For more information on bats and bat houses visit the Bat Conservation International at www.batcon.org. For a small donation of any size you will receive a booklet on bat basics and a set of house-building plans.

copyright 2006

I am the author of over 20 books, including 8 on hiking with your dog, including the widely praised The Canine Hiker's Bible. As publisher of Cruden Bay Books, we produce the innovative A Bark In The Park series of canine hiking books found at http://www.hikewithyourdog.com During the warm months I lead canine hikes as tour leader for hikewithyourdog.com tours, leading packs of dogs and humans on day and overnight trips. My lead dog is Katie, a German Shepherd-Border Collie mix, who has hiked in all of the Lower 48 states and is on a quest to swim in all the great waters of North America - http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Katies%20Blog/Katies%20Quest.html I am currently building a hikewithyourdog.com tours trailer to use on our expeditions and its progress can be viewed at http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Teardrop%20Trailer/Building%20A%20Tour%20Trailer.html

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Thursday, October 2, 2008

Lawn Weeds How You Can Beat Them

Writen by Ellen Smithies

Sometimes it seems as though everything is out to thwart your desire to have that beautiful, healthy, green carpet of lawn. Despite your efforts it is still patchy, brown and attacked by weeds. But don't give up. It may not be too late.

Most gardeners don't mind the odd weed as long as the lawn still looks pretty good. However remember that the odd weed in spring could be a large infestation by midsummer if you don't deal with it. If you mow the lawn once a week you will remove most of the flower stems before they can set seeds. However, many of the lawn weeds grow flat and do not produce flowers on long stems, so these will still flower and set seeds no matter how often you mow. Other methods are needed to treat these weeds. Remember, the earlier you attack the weeds the better as "One year's seeding makes for seven years weeding!"

The best way to keep your lawn looking great is to keep the grass plants healthy, and then they are less likely to let weeds and pests take over. So first of all take care of the basic needs of your lawn.

If a lot of weeds pop up it could mean that your grass is weaker than it should be. If your lawn is too dry, start with a thorough watering – to a depth of 200mm is recommended. Deep watering done less often is better for your lawn grass than if you water a little and often. It helps it to develop a strong, deep root system that makes the plants stronger and less susceptible to drought. Or alternatively, if you have a persistent problem with a waterlogged lawn you may need to consider laying drainage for which you should consult a professional. Feeding your lawn with the appropriate nutrients will also make the grass stronger.

In spite of trying to make your grass plants as healthy as possible, you are still sure to get some weeds growing in it. Weeding is an ongoing process, but shouldn't take much time once you establish a healthy lawn. Grass, and especially the modern mixtures, is very competitive and crowds out most weeds. In a healthy lawn weeds aren't usually much to worry about. Simply pull up any weeds that show up. As you see weeds appearing, dig them up and you'll keep your lawn weedless with a minimum of effort. Practically speaking though, you will only do this if you have only a few weeds to remove. Constant vigilance is the key to success with this type of weed control.

If your weed problem is larger, spray individual weeds with a low-toxicity herbicide. Don't spray the entire lawn unless you have weeds throughout it. You will damage, and could kill dry, dormant or stressed grass if you apply a lawn weeder over the whole lawn. Lawn weedkillers are powerful chemicals and you should always follow the manufacturers instructions for preparation, using, storing and disposing of them. Never use more than directed or 'add a bit more just in case'. You should also identify the sort of grass you have as some types can be damaged by MCPA and dicamba, which are the active ingredients in many weedkillers. Be careful not to allow pets or children near the lawn if you've recently sprayed it.

The best way to minimise the amount of chemicals you use is to spot-treat weeds. Use a pump-action sprayer and walk backwards, up and down the length of the lawn spraying a shot of chemical onto each weed. Hold the nozzle as close as you can to the weed and release with a low pressure to minimise spray drift. It does take longer to do this way but it is more thorough and better for the environment. If you tip a bottle of red food colouring or add some wetting agent into the mix, it is easier to see where you have already sprayed.

After a couple of weeks you'll be seeing results. If there are still a few weeds you've missed, dig them out or do the spot treatment again. Remember if you can kill the weeds before they flower and seed, you're a long way towards having a much smaller problem next spring.

Occasionally you may find a nasty, particularly virulent weed takes over your lawn in which case you need to find out the specific treatment for it from your local garden centre. An example of this is Soliva, also known as lawn burweed, spurweed, bindii, or onehunga weed. It is low growing, has feathery leaves and produces seeds with a short spine on them, which stick into bare feet when you walk on the plants, a particularly unpleasant experience. Although it is only an annual weed it seeds profusely, and its method of spreading by sticking to feet is extremely successful. It requires a targeted weed killer to be applied at a particular time of the year to be effective against it.

'Weed and Feed' products are not generally recommended. For instance, the best time for spraying weeds is not generally the best time for fertilizing your lawn. Also it is unwise to spray unnecessary herbicide over your whole lawn when only a small patch may be infected with weeds. One concern with the hose-on products is spray drifting onto surrounding shrubs. It's hard to apply these products just to the lawn. Applying fertilizer, herbicide and pesticide where and when it is needed is a better lawn care strategy.

So even if your lawn is less than perfect now, don't give up. Follow these tips for getting rid of lawn weeds now, and by this time next year you may have all your neighbours asking you for advice!

Ellen Smithies has 25 years experience with lawn care and has just released a new information packed guide to great lawns "50 Basic Lawn Care Tips". It's absolutely FREE. Claim your copy from this link: http://www.lawnsworld.com/freestuff.html

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Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Adirondack Chairs

Writen by Jason Albright

Adirondack chairs are a popular choice for garden and patio furniture. Thomas Lee who was seeking ways to furnish his summer home invented Adirondack chairs in the early 1900s. He utilized materials that he found around his vacation home, located in Westport, NY. His design impressed a local carpenter, and the Adirondack chair became popular all over the country. The Adirondack chair had eleven slats of wood and wide arm rests. The seat and back were angled to allow better positioning on the Adirondack mountain terrain.

Today, their high angled backs and sloping seats identify Adirondack chairs. They are made with comfort and relaxation in mind, making them perfect chairs for outdoors. The wide arm rests of the Adirondack chairs are perfect to hold drinks or your favorite novel while you relax. The chair wraps around you, making it a comfortable place to unwind.

Adirondack chairs come in several different materials, including plastic and several natural woods. It is not hard to find an Adirondack chair to suit your needs and personal style. Most Adirondack chairs are natural wood colored, but you can also find them painted white. Plastic Adirondack chairs come in a wide variety of custom colors, such as black, white, sand, blue, hunter green and sunny yellow. You can also get dual Adirondack chairs that have seating for two, gliding or rocking Adirondack chairs, and chairs with special features like curved backs or shell designs.

Adirondack chairs are normally very affordable for the quality of craftsmanship that you receive. Custom made wooden Adirondack chairs will fetch a price of $250. With proper care, however, Adirondack chairs will last many years. This makes custom made Adirondack chairs a good investment for your patio furniture.

Plastic Adirondack chairs are also a good choice. This lower cost option is also very durable. It is resistant to moisture, chlorine, salt water and insects. Plastic chairs will also look new for several years.

Whether you choose a natural wood chair, or a plastic version, adding an Adirondack chair to your patio furniture is a great option.

© Cookgroup Marketing LLC - All Rights Reserved. This article brought to you by http://Deck-and-Patio-Furniture.com/ . You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice, author name, and URL remain intact. Jason Albright is a contributing editor at Cookgroup Marketing LLC. His background is with lifestyle topics including: Gardening, Outdoor Living, Home Decor & Travel Destinations.

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