Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Landscaping With Railway Ties

Writen by Bill Prudehome

Using wood railway ties that have been impregnated with creosote in your landscaping project may give you the appearance that you are looking for, but it is important to understand the problems that you may encounter.

Wood railway ties are manufactured by saturating raw lumber with a product generally referred to as creosote. Creosote is the generic name used for a variety of wood preservatives: wood creosote, coal tar creosote, coal tar, coal tar pitch, and coal tar pitch volatiles all fall under the general category of creosote. These products are created by mixing numerous chemicals that are created by the high-temperature treatment of beech and other woods, coal, or from the resin of the creosote bush.

Creosote does not dry, as with most tar like substances it remains in a semi-liquid state. Hence, if you touch a creosote impregnated railway tie, you will transfer some of the creosote to your hands and the hotter it is, the more the creosote will liquefy. If there are children who will be in contact with the railway ties their clothes and any exposed areas will be covered in creosote. Because creosote is a tar product, it does not wash out of clothing easily. Coupled with the problem associated with transfer is that creosote can and does produce a tar odor, which most individuals find distasteful.

Creosote will also leach into garden soil and ground water. Vegetables should not be grown in areas where creosote may have or may be contaminating the soil as vegetables grown in that soil will absorb the creosote chemicals.

Creosote impregnated lumber cannot be sealed, stained or painted.

Is creosote harmful? Diagnosticians have determined that irritation of the respiratory tract has been caused by breathing the vapors of any of the creosotes listed above. Skin damage, such as blistering and peeling, can be caused by long-term (year) exposure to creosote by contact with the skin or inhaling the vapors. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and the EPA have has determined that creosote is most likely a carcinogenic to humans.

You now have the information necessary to determine if wood railway ties are the best product for your next landscaping project.

For additional information on landacaping your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Commercial Greenhouses

Writen by Jason Gluckman

From a business point of view, a greenhouse can be very profitable, as you can grow spring vegetables all year long. This is true even in the winter months when you have to normally depend on exports. Commercial greenhouses are much bigger than the standard greenhouse, sometimes extending to several hundred feet. Like the standard greenhouse, they can be designed to fit any building and zoning codes.

The first and most important step in commercial greenhouse construction is to pick the right location. Although you can build a standard greenhouse almost anywhere, a commercial greenhouse has many things that need to be taken into consideration. From a legal point of view, you will need to check on the zoning rules (greenhouses can be built only in certain zones), building codes and environmental feasibility. From a monetary point of view and for higher profits, you will have to check land rates, highway accessibility, and availability of water and the heat and electricity tariffs of the region.

A freestanding greenhouse is best suited for a total structure area of under 10,000 sq. feet. It is also good for regions that receive heavy snowfall and for land with an uneven surface. A gutter-connected greenhouse is best suited for an area between 10,000 and 20,000 sq feet. This structure will greatly reduce your heating bills, as the heat can be centralized. Your local greenhouse manufacturer will supply you with all that is needed.

For a commercial greenhouse, you will need a good climate control system to heat or cool the greenhouse depending on the season. You will need to lay a gravel, concrete or plastic flooring to prevent insect and diseases from affecting your plants. You also need to put benches inside, so that your plants will receive even air circulation and drainage.

Greenhouses provides detailed information on Commercial Greenhouses, Greenhouse Gardening, Greenhouse Kits, Greenhouse Windows and more. Greenhouses is affiliated with Bonsai Pots.

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Tips On How To Care For Fresh Cut Tropicals

Writen by Willie Jones

You can do your own tropical flower arrangements and add life to your office or home. Tropical flowers are generally much hardier than their softer cousins. They are brilliantly colored and have a longer shelf life especially if you care for them properly.

Here are some things you can do to maximize their life:

1) Every type of fresh cut flower will produce a certain amount of ethylene gas during shipping but this can be taken care of by immediately unwrapping them and submersing them completely in a room temperature bath or large tub of water for 10 to 20 minutes. This applies to almost all the tropicals except for the fuzzy protease and most orchids.

2) Cut the stem of your tropicals about an inch from the bottom at about a 45-degree angle. The slant ensures that the stem will draw the maximum amount of water. Do this several times during the week and you will extend their life.

3) Tropicals grow in warm rainy climates and they enjoy being wet. For this reason keep your tropicals away from drafts and cool places and direct sunlight. Spray mist them daily to keep the moisture content up. In nature tropical blooms have pods facing upward, as they like to pool water in them. You can also do this with your fresh cuts.

4) If you find that the water gets cloudy then put a few drops of bleach in the water. This helps to prevent bacteria from growing and this will not hurt the flowers.

5) Make sure that when you design your flowers in a vase that you do not have any greens below the water line. This will rapidly decay the rest of the arrangement.

6) If you have purchased bird of paradise for your arrangement and they are not open, you can gently ease them apart by taking your index finger or thumb and slowly push your way at the base of the flower and force the blooms up.

Most tropicals will last between 7 to 14 days if properly taken care of. I have seen cymbidium orchids last as long as 3 weeks. So enjoy these vibrant exotic flowers in your home or office.

Willie Jones is a freelance writer, researcher, floral designer, and artist, for Art Inspires, Inc. Make sure you enroll in the free motivational poster drawing at http://www.artinspires.com

Comparing Fresh Amp Silk Flowers

Writen by Chad Harris

The journey of life is full of special moments, celebrations and jubilations. Sending fresh and silk flowers at such times make these moments more beautiful and special. Often buying fresh lilies or buying silk flowers involves great emotions, as it is for a special person. Not every time you need to buy flowers to celebrate a moment, but at times just by sending or giving flowers to your loved ones, can be the icing on the cake, that makes it more memorable. Sending flowers is an internationally popular way of expressing love and care. In fact every flower and every color has a special significance and connotes a special emotion. Giving flowers is an old trend that will never loose its charm.

Flowers for events

Flowers of different types and colors are used for different events. Fresh flowers produce terrific fragrance, that can fill a room. Where as, artificial flowers can be kept as mementos and preserved as memories. Orchids, fresh cut lilies, tulips and roses of pink shades, if combined together, make the most stunning bouquet of wedding flowers. Lighter shades of pink flowers, which stand for happiness and joy, are most used for as wedding flowers. Similarly there are special fresh and artificial flowers, which are arranged together as birthday flowers and anniversary flowers. Flowers do not only make beautiful gifts, but can be customized almost any way you want. In some cases artificial flowers are more preferred, as they can be stored. They also come in many varieties and colors. In fact artificial flowers, such as the ones made from silks and latex look amazingly beautiful, almost exactly like the natural ones and are also very cheap. Latex flowers have extra soft petals giving the flower a natural feel. As these flowers come with a long stem they can also be used in vases. Moreover when it comes to sending flowers you basically have two options. Fresh cut flowers, or artificial ones. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Fresh Flowers vs. Silk Flowers

Fresh flowers have their own beauty and fragrance, which, cannot be copied. The diversity that fresh flowers offer is really amazing. In fact no two red roses, or any other flowers for that matter, can ever look the same. The natural beauty can never be duplicated. Every flower is a masterpiece and a combination of such masterpieces surely makes up an enchanting arrangement or bouquet. However natural flowers are often seasonal and not all varieties are available through out the year. Further more fresh flowers don't remain fresh for a long time and perish easily. On the other hand Silk flowers last for years. Silks come in a wide variety of quality. The better ones are hard to distinguish from the natural ones. Silk flowers of all varieties are available through- out the year and are definitely cheaper than the natural ones. These flowers just need to be dusted off and washed from time to time.

Where to buy

To buy silk flowers there are various online sellers who offer these flowers at discount rates. Higher discounts can be available if flowers are purchased in bulk. Silk flowers can also be purchased from crafts shops. Similarly there are florists who can deliver these flowers on demand. Florists today along with the fresh ones have also started keeping silk flowers. Buying fresh flowers is more recommended from local florists. In fact go personally to shop for them. When you need large quantities of fresh flowers, go to flower markets, where you can get fresh flowers at wholesale rates.

Chad Harris is the founder of Flower-Guide.net. At www.flower-guide.net we have information about growing orchids, caring for tulips, buying silk flowers, and much more.

Monday, December 29, 2008

Glider Rocker Cushions Fanastic Replacement Cushions For Your Favorite Adirondack Furniture

Writen by Jennifer Akre

Where to find?

If you are considering the replacement of cushions of your Adirondack furniture, then the most appropriate choice for you is a glider rocker cushion, which can be found for country style oak finish wood. These cushions can be used for the comfort of a number of activities such as cross stitching, gun cleaning, rocking babies, etc. These cushions can easily enhance the looks of your rocker, chair, love seat or chaise lounge. A cushion for Adirondack furniture can still feel comfortable even on a sunny, hot afternoon during summer.

Advantages

With the help of a Glider Rocker Cushion, the chances of your furniture being damaged with the sun tan oil or a spilled drink is greatly reduced. The Glider Rocker Cushion can be easily washed in the washing machine. So, in this way you can take full advantage of Adirondack furniture.

There is a wide variety of Glider Adirondack furniture cushions in terms of different styles, colors and fabrics. If you are looking for furniture cushions that are perfect in terms of durability and comfort level, there is no competition for Glider Adirondack furniture cushions. Outdoor Adirondack furniture cushions are quite endurable ones that can be used even for dining tables, chairs, benches, rockers, etc. Glider Rocker Adirondack furniture made of oak wood with matching seat and nice cushions will surely make any room more beautiful.

You can decorate Adirondack furniture with different colors depending on the purpose and furnishing of your backyard, pool area, etc. You can use navy, forest green, blue,and khaki colors so as to suit your needs and requirements. You can even choose colors such as hunter green and white.

More and more Adirondack furniture with these cushions are being used in public places such as airports and downtown hotels. In such places, these cushions can be used in various forms such as toss pillows, bench pads, iron furniture cushions, glider rocker cushions, and dog bed cushions.

Replacement Rocker Cushion

If you want to replace your existing cushions with new ones, you need to do certain things such as getting the measurements for your new cushion, and selecting your style preference.

Once, you have chosen the rocker cushion for your Adirondack furniture, all you need to do is to just order the same. You will find your home quite fascinating and charming with the help of fabulous cushions.

Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous home and patio decor websites, makes it easy to find quality wonderful Adirondack Furniture and beautiful Adirondack Chairs . Learn how to decorate your patio and garden in style - click the following link: http://www.eAdirondackStyle.com.

The Not So Common Day Lily

Writen by Kenneth C. Hoffman

For many people, when asked to name their favorite flower, it will be the rose. Roses bloom for about a month in June, then in September they will re-bloom at about half strength. Roses are beautiful and last a long time when picked but require a lot of TLC. The special attention they require include frequent fertilization, spraying for insects, pruning back in fall, the removal of half dead blooms, and don't forget the thorns. On the other hand, there are hemerocallis, better known as day lilies.

These are not the common roadside variety usually called tiger lilies, but the hemerocallis hybrids from the mountains of China and other places around the world. Tiger lilies grow on 40 inch stems that tower above most garden plants. The individual four inch blossoms are open only for two thirds of the daylight hours. Often a good rain will lay them down on the ground and their roots have a nasty habit of growing sideways into other parts of your garden. Originally, they were planted by the American settlers to hold back the banks of soil along the roads. Hybrid hemerocallis are available in many different plant habits and colors. The delicate pastels and exotic combinations are especially beautiful.

Initially, day lilies are planted in groups of three to five root clumps since every year they will double in size. Twelve years will go by before they have to be separated for more breathing room. Dawn will find most varieties starting to open, the sun making diamond reflections on their wide spread petals. Some blooms measure eight inches across and stay open until midnight. Every well grown stem will carry up to forty blooms, each one with its own day of glory. While not strictly necessary, I liked to snap off the previous day's blossoms, just to make the plants look neater.

No special care is needed for day lilies, just a single annual feeding and a raking up in December. Perennial day lilies love the heat and are hardy all the way into Canada. They are not on any bug's menu, either. When planting, loosen the soil twelve inches below the roots. Plant them in late fall or early spring six inches below the ground. Twelve inch height miniatures go well in the borders, sixteen inch clumps make a beautiful midaccent grouping and taller varieties fill in the background nicely. Hybrid varieties come in pink and yellow bicolor, deep velvet red, pale banana yellow, bright orange, and many striped and delicate pastels. Day lilies bloom from July first until mid September. Some even rebloom in October. An arrangement of day lily buds is a breath taking sight when they open on your dining room table with the first rays of the sun. Think of the joy you would bring to a convalescent in the hospital or an elderly friend on her birthday with these diamonds of the garden.

Retired portrait photographer. I sometimes like to hybrid new colors of hybrid day lilies.

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Lawn Care Tips

Writen by Jennifer Bailey

A well-maintained lawn, pleasing to the eyes, is a great asset. Many people try to keep their lawn in perfect condition, and take extra trouble to make their lawn the talk of the neighborhood. However, developing an ideal lawn is an elaborate affair, and the right knowledge is of vital importance. Lawn care guidelines can be of immense help for those aspiring to have a dream lawn of their own.

If one wants a lawn that will be the pride of the locality and remain verdant all summer, then one should give due importance to the suitable kind of grass required for the yard, and watering it in the proper manner. It is also vital to note that in order to develop grass fruitfully one must concentrate on fertilizers, check weeds regularly and follow a scything routine.

The key to possessing a verdant lawn entails the use of lawn fertilizers and successful weed management. It also entails the possession of the right lawn mower. Initial issues in developing the perfect lawn relate to choosing the grass types and irrigating the lawns.

While developing new lawns, many people find it hard to decide whether to lay sod or seed lawns. Laying sod consumes less time and gives rise to premium new lawns, while seeding lawns costs less and makes available a diverse range of grass types. Using seed for starting new lawns is cheaper than using sod.

It should be borne in mind that laying sod is a grand choice for persons who want an immediate lawn. Laying sod to develop new lawns commences with preparing the soil, and the procedure ends with effective watering.

Lawn Care provides detailed information on Lawn Care, Lawn Care Tips, Lawn Care Products, Organic Lawn Care and more. Lawn Care is affiliated with Grass Seeds.

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Industrial Blowers

Writen by Ken Marlborough

Industrial blowers are mainly used to circulate the movement of air and gas in ventilation applications. Their main function is to replace impure or contaminated air with fresh air by swirling it around. Almost every industry, including agricultural, chemical, medical, oil and gas, automotive, food processing, mining and construction use blowers for different purposes such as drying, reducing heat levels, reducing smoke and odors, processing and controlling gaseous fumes.

Industrial blowers are manufactured using a range of durable plastics and metals, or a combination of both materials. For example, industrial blowers operating in corrosive environments are usually made of polypropylene because it provides greater structural integrity and corrosion resistance, and will never de-laminate. Typical recommendations in the construction of industrial blowers are - fiberglass for temperatures above 220 degrees, and metal if pressure is above 10 w.g. (water gage).

The size of the blower may be regulated by the size of the environment in which it is to be operated. For instance, some units are big enough to house both the fan and its power supply. Smaller, portable blowers are mainly used for cleanups and in spaces that require temporary circulation or air transfer.

The air movement and control association recognizes three classes of industrial blowers, classified with numerical designation that is based on how the fan is constructed. The United States' specifications for industrial blowers depend on the airflow in CFM (cubic feet per minute), static pressure in inches, water gage, altitude and approximate air temperature. Here's an example:

An industrial blower application with 20,000 CFM at 6" wg of pressure needs 12 industrial fans ranging from 30 to 60hp. While the recommended or optimal is a 36 wheel, with a 30 hp (horsepower) motor, this is achievable with a 24" diameter wheel, or up to a 6" wheel. The outlet velocity for the 36"" is 2611 ft. per minute. So, if it's a 6" diameter wheel, the velocity outlet will be 653"" per minute.

Blowers provides detailed information about blowers, backpack blowers, blower fans, blower motors and more. Blowers is the sister site of Electric Pressure Washers.

Friday, December 26, 2008

Cyclamen

Writen by Geoff Bryant

Think of cyclamen and the chances are that Mothers Day immediately comes to mind, which is something of a pity. Now don't misinterpret me, there's nothing wrong with mothers or with having a day for them, but it does seem a little unfortunate when such beautiful, adaptable and useful plants become so commercialised that there's difficulty escaping that association.

But no plant as beautiful as the wild cyclamen can remain so neatly packaged and presented as its cultivated forms may have it. Gardeners are always willing to experiment, to use outdoors what might be considered house plants and to seek out less widely grown but hardier species for their gardens.

Once thought to consist of many species, the genus Cyclamen is now considered to include just 19 species, some of which encompass subspecies and forms previously considered distinct. Related to the primroses, they form a few large tubers or numerous small ones, soon spreading to cover a considerable area, if happy. They occur naturally in southern Europe, neighbouring western Asia and the moister parts of North Africa with one species from Somalia, and as with many of the western Asian bulbs, corms and tubers, some species are now rare in the wild because they have been over-collected by commercial bulb gatherers and enthusiasts.

Cyclamen are generally most at home in fairly dry, partly shaded, well-drained conditions such as might be found in a rockery. Although hardiness varies with the species, if planted in well-chosen sites, all can be grown in coastal New Zealand gardens and many can be cultivated inland too. While the exact flowering time varies with the species, none bloom to any great extent in summer, the cooler months from March to October being the main season.

Common species

The best-known cyclamen is Cyclamen persicum, which is so widely cultivated as an indoor or gift plant that it usually known as the florist's cyclamen. This species, or rather the countless cultivars or probably hybrids derived from it, is a native of the eastern Mediterranean, Libya and the islands of Rhodes and Crete. The true species, sometimes seen but often hard to differentiate from the cultivated forms, has dark green leaves heavily marbled with silver-grey and its fragrant flowers, which have reflexed petals up to 3 cm long, may be white, mauve or any shade of pink from pale to cerise. This natural variability and the ease with which it adapts to pot culture has made the plant what it is today - a universal favourite.

Cyclamen persicum is so well known that it's fashionable to dismiss it as being too common and to look instead for less widely grown species. However, anything that is popular becomes so for a reason and you don't have to search for the secrets to the success of the florist's cyclamen. It has lush foliage, masses of beautiful flowers in a huge range of colours and styles, it blooms from autumn to spring and can be grown indoors or outdoors in mild climates. What else could you possibly want?

Well, perhaps you might want greater frost hardiness, more flowers with less foliage, greater sun tolerance and the kind of diminutive stature that makes the finest rockery and alpine plants so appealing. And that's where the three species that come next in the list of the most widely grown cyclamen really shine, features not lost on the gardeners to which we often look for guidance, the British.

Cyclamen have always been popular in Britain but Cyclamen persicum rarely succeeds outdoors in the British climate. Consequently other species have been sought out and developed as garden plants. The first of these was the local Cyclamen purpurascens, from central and eastern Europe, which in its common form was formerly known as Cyclamen europaeum. This small species has marbled, rounded to ivy-like leaves and deep pink flowers that open from late summer. While still popular in British and European gardens, Cyclamen purpurascens is not commonly met with here, though its style of growth paved the way into cultivation for three species that are: Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen hederifolium and Cyclamen repandum.

Cyclamen coum

Undoubtedly my favourite, this tough little plant is found from Bulgaria and the Caucasus to the northern parts of Syria and Iran and may extend southwards into Israel. It dark leaves are small, usually 25 to 50mm wide, and are heavily marbled, with reddish undersides. The flowers are tiny too and may be white, pale pink or tending towards magenta. They open from early winter and continue unabated into spring. The flowers are remarkably resistant to frost and although they can look very downhearted when frozen, they immediately perk-up on thawing out. This is a terrific plant for rockeries or alpine troughs and is at home in sun or partial shade.

Cyclamen hederifolium

Formerly known as Cyclamen neapolitanum and still widely sold under that name, the attractively marbled, ivy-like foliage of this native of southern Europe and Turkey dies away in spring and does not reappear until well after the plant has started to flower in late summer. The small flowers occur in a wide range of shades and when spent, their stems start to coil like springs and turn downwards to the ground as the seed capsules develop.

Cyclamen repandum

This species is found from southern France to Greece and has large, lobed leaves that are dark green with conspicuous silver-grey mottling and marbling. Considering its lush foliage, spring blooming habit and Mediterranean homeland, it is surprisingly frost hardy. Its flowers are pleasantly scented, have petals up to 20mm long and occur in white and all shades of pink to light red.

These three species are so common that if you see a garden cyclamen that is obviously not Cyclamen persicum then the chances are that it's Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen hederifolium, Cyclamen repandum or one of the subspecies or forms of those species. However, collectors and enthusiasts, being what they are, have imported other species that you may occasionally have the pleasure of seeing.

Rarities

With so few species in the genus I'm reluctant to say that any of them aren't cultivated. Indeed, it's very likely that they're all in gardens - somewhere - in one form or another. But while I've learnt to never say never when it comes to stating what's to be found in our gardens, I'm yet to see the Somalian species, Cyclamen somalense.

Another exclusively African species, Cyclamen africanum, from Algeria is also very rare. It has rather glossy, toothed edged leaves up to 10 cm wide and its 25mm flowers, which are deep pink and open in autumn, have the scent of violets. It is somewhat similar to Cyclamen hederifolium and along with the white- to deep pink-flowered Cyclamen ciliatum from Turkey is usually the first cyclamen to start blooming in late summer or early autumn.

Also from Africa, the Libyan Cyclamen rohlfsianum has silvery marbled bright green leaves with a covering of fine pinkish hairs when young. Its bright pink flowers open in autumn and are often scented. It dislikes winter wet and is best grown in pots with the addition of some limestone chips.

The eastern Mediterranean species: Cyclamen creticum, from Crete; Cyclamen cyprium, from Cyprus; Cyclamen graecum, from Greece, the Aegean islands and southern Turkey; and Cyclamen libanoticum, from Syria and Lebanon, are all to be seen locally, though none are common. However, because these species are becoming increasingly rare in the wild and live in areas that are threatened by that most pernicious of predators, the tourist, we should be doing our bit to ensure their survival by making them more widely available.

They are, in the main, dainty plants with small leaves and pink flowers. Cyclamen graecum has some of the most beautiful foliage in the genus. In addition to the usual silver-grey mottling, its leaves have pale to vivid green veins, maroon undersides and reddish teeth.

Cultivation

As mentioned earlier, cyclamen generally prefer partial shade, very well drained, somewhat dry soil and cool conditions. They thrive in lightly shaded rockeries, growing happily in the crevices between rocks and also adapt well to container cultivation, especially in alpine troughs. Most species have a preference for neutral to slightly alkaline conditions. Adding a few limestone chips to the soil aids the drainage and keeps the pH about right.

That said, tough species like Cyclamen hederifolium usually adapt well to being cultivated with acid soil plants such as ericas and dwarf rhododendrons, so don't be afraid to experiment.

While a few species, such as Cyclamen libanoticum, prefer their tubers to be below the surface, in most cases the top of the tuber should be at or above the soil surface. This helps keep the tubers dry in winter and ensures that the crown of flower and foliage stems does not rot off at ground level. The tubers of indoor potted cyclamen should be kept dry - water the soil surface, not the tuber - and even then only when it has dried.

Cyclamen are not heavy feeders. Regular feeding with mild liquid fertilisers will keep house-grown cyclamen flowering well, while a light application of general garden fertiliser during the summer dormant season is enough to ensure that outdoor plants continue to thrive.

Pests and diseases are rare on healthy plants and when present are usually a sign of poor growing conditions. While slugs and snails can attack outdoor cyclamen, they should otherwise be pest-free. If indoor cyclamen show signs of botrytis, mildew of other soft rots, the soil conditions are probably too damp. If mealy bugs and scale insects occur they may indicate low humidity or may have spread from other plants that have been infested.

Propagation

Most cyclamen are bought in nurseries as ready-grown container plants intended, in the case of Cyclamen persicum, for growing indoors, or otherwise for planting out. As they grow and their tubers multiply, they can be lifted and dived when dormant.

This slow and steady method of propagation ensures a continuity of growth, but if you need to speed up your cyclamen reproduction consider propagating the plants from seed. While some of the fancy-foliaged forms must be propagated vegetatively to maintain their characteristics, most cyclamen cultivars reproduce reasonably true to type from seed and the species certainly do.

Growing from seed is quite straightforward, though you may have to wait quite some time before the first flowers appear, typically 18 months to two years. Sow the seed when ripe, usually late spring to early summer, in a fairly light, gritty soil. The temperature should be cool, around 18°C, and the seed should be lightly covered with soil. If viable, most of the seed should have germinated within 28 to 42 days. The seedlings may be pricked out into individual pots as soon as they are large enough to easily handle without damaging their fleshy stems.

I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.

Tillandsia Quotairplantsquot Dont Plant These Plants

Writen by Arthur Comer

Watch out, it's a tillandsia! Have no fear, I said "Tillandsia," not Tarantula. Although several species of this plant genus have taken on the appearance of the ominous eight-legged spider, you can rest-assured that these plants do not bite. As the largest genus of the Bromeliad family of plants, tillandsia boast of a characteristic that few other plants have, they have the ability to grow and prosper without soil. Nature has provided them with another mechanism for deriving the moisture and nutrients they need to survive. Though many Tillandsia species have a developed root system, its primary purpose is to secure these epiphytic plants to a host. Tillandsia leaves have specially developed cells called scales or trichomes that allow water and nutrients to be taken in from rain, the air, and dust. When opened, these cells give the plants their silvery-gray, somewhat ashy appearance.

The trichomes work like trap doors; as the plant dries out, the trichomes open to absorb more moisture and nutrients. Once sufficient hydration is achieved, the trichomes close to retain the moisture. Plants whose leaves have a dense concentration of trichomes are generally from an environment that is sunny and dry, and their leaves tend to be grayer and stiffer than those plants from a humid and shady environment. The dense concentration of trichomes on the leaf's surface allows the plant to absorb more moisture and to reflect the harsh effects of the sun.

Tillandsias have truly exquisite foliage. Although when in bloom they are magnificent in appearance, their foliage is their outstanding feature. Most tillandsia only bloom once in their lifetime. After blooming, pups or offsets form around the base or axil of the plants, and will eventually mature and complete their blooming cycle in one to several years. Propagating tillandsia from seed can require the patience of Job since it can take from four to seven years to do so. It is much easier and quicker to propagate by separating the offsets from the "mother" plant after they have reach about ½ "her" size.

Create some very eye-catching live plant arrangements using only tillandsia or by combining them with other plants. Since soil is not a requirement for growing tillandsia, more display possibilities are available than with traditional plants. Although displaying your plants can be as simple as hanging them by their roots from a piece of non-copper wire or fishing line, you can use waterproof adhesives such as Liquid Nail, Goop or even hot glue to attach your plants to any substrate that can handle frequent watering. Yes, watering is necessary! The common name for tillandsia, Airplant, is somewhat of a misnomer. In their natural habitat, tillandsias are able to derive all the moisture and nutrients they need from their surrounding. Once removed from that habitat, it is necessary to provide water, light, air circulation and an occasional feeding.

A good dripping-wet watering should be given at least once a week, more depending on the growing conditions. Provide bright indirect lighting; natural sunlight or artificial lighting is acceptable. Though not necessary, feeding your plants monthly with a bromeliad fertilizer or with Rapid Grow/Miracle Grow fertilizers at ¼ strength during the months of March – October will greatly enhance growth and blooming. Supply enough air circulation to allow your plants to dry, after watering, in three to four hours. Tillandsias are amazingly resilient plants, able to survive under some of the worst growing conditions. Plant enthusiasts will love the ease of becoming a successful grower of Tillandsia.

Arthur Comer is the author of The Beginner's Guide to Successfully Growing Tillandsias (ISBN 0-9752760-0-X). He is the owner and general manager of the mail order Specialty Plants Company, ALCJR ENTERPRISES. The Virginia Gardener Magazine published a featured article by Arthur in its April 2005 issue. Additional growing tips, images and a wealth of information about these unique plants is available at his web site. http://www.alcjr.com

Thursday, December 25, 2008

How To Buy A Porch Swing

Writen by Kevin Snook

The Porch Swing is enjoying a surge in popularity thanks to the latest Home & Garden trend towards building "Garden Rooms". Patio Furniture Retailers have responded by flooding the market with so many options that making a choice can be a daunting task. Here are some factors that you should consider to help you make the best Porch Swing choice for you:

Porch Swings are now made from a wide range of building materials. The most common are wood and wicker. Popular woods used are cedar, teak, pine, maple, and oak. The materials vary greatly in terms of strenth and durability. While Oak is the strongest, it also tend to be very heavy. Cedar offers the greatest strength to lightest weight ratio. The wood is very light and has 80% the strength of oak. Cedar also has natural properties that enable the wood to resist rot and decay. In addition, it won't bow or sag, crack or chip making it one of Outdoor Furniture's most desired building materials. Pine is lightweight and relatively inexpensive but is soft and dents and cracks easily. The durability of wicker varies depending on the materials used to make the wicker.

Porch Swing physical features like seat depth, angle of the back and space between the slats, length of the seat, and joint construction can vary widely. The depth of the seat is one feature that is very important. Seat depth can range from 18 to 36 Inches. There is no one correct depth. It's a personal choice based on comfort.

For maximal comfort, the back of the Swing should be slightly tilted. And there should be some space between the slats to allow air to circulate.

Swings can generally hold one to three people depending on the length of the seat. But keep in mind that the longer the seat the heavier the supports that will be required. Generally, a Porch Swing that seats two comfortably is recommended.

Finally, the functional nature of Porch Swings requires that the joints be screwed or bolted together. Joints that are nailed together are not recommended as a Porch Swing is a functional peice of and the nails will come loose with use.

Another criterium to consider is whether to buy a finished or unfinished Porch Swing. Porch Swings are now available in a variety of finishes. Some are stained, others painted in colors ranging from white to a rainbow of multiple colors. Many Porch Swings are also unfinished. The unfinished Porch Swings provide the most options later and some can be left to age naturally without finishing. Unfinished Cedar, for example, is "Outdoor reaady". No finishing is required. An unfinshed Patio Furniture Porch Swing also leaves lots of "dress up" options. While it might be difficult to find cushions to match muti-colored Porch Swings, by starting with an unfinished Outdoor Furniture swing, you could pick the stain or paint to match the cushion!

Installion is another important consideration. If you have a covered Porch with exposed joists, your installation job is automatically made easier. However, your options re: length and weight of the Porch Swing may be limited. If you intend on building your own Porch Swing support for the garden or an uncovered porch, more options are open to you as you can build the support according to the weight and length of the Porch Swing.

By considering the building material, physical features, the finish, and your particular installation requirements in advance, your task of choosing the Porch Swing that is best for you will be much easier. And you'll be enjoying your Porch Swing that much faster with fewer hastles!

Kevin Snook is the owner and operator of Patio Furniture retailer http://www.GoCedar.com, Porch Swing that's shipped free to homes and cottages throughout the Continental USA and Canada.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Get Rid Of Wasp Nests

Writen by Emma Drosy

Common problems for those who enjoy going outdoors (and who doesn't), wasps strike when you're looking somewhere else, leaving a stinging pain that you won't soon forget. Wasp nests on your property can be dangerous to visitors, small children, and your pets. Do you know how to get rid of wasp nests?

Wasps will build their nests in tiny holes, living in large groupings and making occasional trips to terrorize people and animals nearby outside the hole. If you suspect you've got a wasp nest on the property, it's best to deal with the problem as soon as possible. You have to get rid of wasp nests when they appear, as soon you notice you might have one.

There is some danger in trying to get rid of wasp nests, because if you anger the wasps in the nest you're very liable to get attacked by the wasps and stung in many different places. So you must exercise caution at all times when trying to get rid of wasp nests. Safety first! Be careful when you antagonize stinging insects of any kind.

Many products are available on the open market to help you get rid of wasp nests. Chemical sprays and wasp nest destroying kits may work to help you rid yourself of your wasp problem, but exercise caution when placing agents that will harm wasps. You don't want to get in the area if those wasps decide to take offense at their treatment!

There are also professional removal services that will help you get rid of wasp nests. These services may be rather costly, but they work exceedingly well and require very little effort from you (all you have to do is make the call and sign the bill). Also, having the professionals take care of your wasp problem means that you will not be harmed or put in danger in any way. For many, this is considered the best way to get rid of wasp nests.

Once you know how to get rid of wasp nests, you can re-claim the area of your property that was previously wasp infested. After all, it's your home – you should have free reign.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Waterwise Xeriscaping For An Extraordinary Spring Garden

Writen by Jeanette Joy Fisher

Now that spring is officially (on the calendar, at least), it's time to think about how to turn your garden from ordinary to extraordinary.

One way to do that is to think in terms of xeriscaping. The term means to use waterwise plants, which is especially useful in dry climates. Xeric species make gardening easier because they're drought resistant, and friendlier to the environment, because they use less water to provide lushness in both flowers and foliage. Most xeric plants are also perennials, so they will continue to flourish for years without having to be replanted every spring.

There are many types of gardens that can also create spectacular effects. For instance, formal gardens are meant to convey a sense of power over the environment through the use of carefully trimmed hedges and symmetrical layouts. This type of garden was especially popular during Elizabethan times. They require considerably more work, but the overall effort can be very dramatic.

A woodland garden can also be beautiful, using a combination of plants that can tolerate shade and partial sunlight. The idea is to mimic the randomness of the forest floor, and augment that with the use of stone and wood to create a warm and inviting feeling. Water elements are often used, as well as stone bridges and walkways. The idea is to work with the space and make it feel as if everything belongs there within a naturalistic setting.

If your space is truly limited, you can still create spectacular effects by creating a container garden. These are particularly effective in an urban setting, especially in a courtyard or on a patio. By using varying sizes and shapes of containers and mixing various textures and colors together, you can create stunning effects without having to have a large amount of space.

Another garden that can create a wonderfully organic effect is the wildflower garden. As the name suggests, the aim is to recreate the randomness you'd find in an open meadow. The overall effect can be quite breathtaking, and sowing the seeds can be as simple as just sprinkling handfuls of wildflower seeds around your garden area. A pleasant bonus to this type of garden is that it will attract lots of birds and butterflies, as well, which will provide even more enjoyment for nature lovers.

You don't have to spend huge amounts of money to create extraordinary garden spaces. It just requires thought and imagination.

Copyright © 2006 Jeanette J. Fisher

Jeanette Fisher, author of interior design and real estate books helps home owners makeover their homes with "green design." For more home environmental issue articles, visit Environmental Psychology

Using Snow Roof Rakes

Writen by Andrew Caxton

Removing snow from your roof is not the same as the removing snow from your garden. Where there is a possibility of snow, the roofs are made inclined and this is a major reason why the mechanical tools cannot be used by the house-owner. Either he has to use manual tools or he has to call for an expert in roof raking. Fortunately, the gravity works for the house-owner and if the snowfall is not continuous and long lasting, the nature itself would melt the snow and a minor effort on part of house-owner will ensure that no ice collects on the roof.

Roof Rakes Are Made Of Aluminum Or Hard Plastic

For roof raking aluminum ladder and roof rakes are required. The roof rakes are attached at the end of a tube. They are made of aluminum or hard plastic. Aluminum is preferred over plastic as they are not as tough as the aluminum ones. Aluminum ladder is necessary, as roof is slippery, inclined and thus not safe for access. Whatever portions can be reached with the help of the tube extensions, are cleared of collected snow and the other portions left out in as is condition. Chemical deicers if available in market can be used.

Safety In Roof Raking

Do not do the following when clearing the snow from roof
1. Never ever, climb on the roof to clear the snow. All the ingredients for an accident are present the roof. A slippery surface and slope are sufficient for hurtling you downwards.
2. Do not work on the snow by mechanical means, that means no pounding or chopping
3. Aluminum ladder should have a firm footing, and it should be anchored firmly. It should not topple down.

Roof Raking Alternatives

To reduce the manual effort required in roof raking and removing snow from roof, roof and gutter de-icing cable can be installed on the roof. This has to be installed on the roof in a zigzag pattern and parallel to the gutter. A controller situated in your house will ensure that the temperature of the area under the cable does not get hot.

Andrew Caxton is the webmaster and succesful author of many articles published at http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com . A guide on lawn mowers and garden tractors and how to choose the right type for your garden; including snow removal tools for the winter season, such as snow blowers(throwers), shovels, salt spreaders or roof rakes http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/snow-removal-equipment/roof-rake.html amongst other garden equipment for gardening and lawn care.

Monday, December 22, 2008

History Of The Cherry Tree

Writen by Patrick Malcolm

There are only a few instances in the ancient historical record concerning cherry trees. This absence in the record perhaps resulted in the fragile nature and perishability of the fruit, unlike the fruit from the apple tree. There are strong suggestions that the cherry tree originated in the territories of Asia Minor near the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. Other suggestions that the cherry trees were used in the Greek and Roman cultures come from literary historians, and it appears that cherry wood from the trees of cherry was important in many professional applications for the ancients.

Among the fruit seeds that were sent in 1628 to the settlement at Plymouth, Massachusetts, by the Massachusetts bay Colony were cherry, peach , plum, filbert, apple, quince, and pomegranate and "according to accounts, they sprung up and flourished."

William Bartram found bird cherry, Prunus padus, growing near Augusta, Georgia in 1773 as reported in his book, Travels, when he was taking an inventory of plants growing in the South after the Spaniards abandoned and ceded the land to the English.

Luther Burbank, two centuries later, believed that the bird cherry should be incorporated into the parentage of future cherry hybrids, because it was the most cold hardy cherry known; with its heavy bearing characteristics and its immunity to most insect and disease problems of the cherry trees already in commercial pipelines, it was the hardiest cherry tree yet.

In 1847, Henderson Lewelling brought to Oregon in a covered wagon "cherry trees, apples, pear, plum, and quince."

Luther Burbank, in his extensive book, Fruit Improvement in 1922, combined characteristics from the Sand cherry tree, Prunus besseyi, with the American plum, Prunus chickasaw, and the Japanese plum, Prunus triflora, that ripened in California around mid-August. Burbank described the fruit as deep crimson in color, transparent flesh, rich sweet flavor, juicy and firm with a strong resemblance of the parental form of the American plum, Prunus chickasaw. This cherry-plum hybrid was able to withstand the cold and rigorous climatic conditions, even to the Dakotas.

Professor N.E. Hansen of the South Dakota Experiment Station developed and improved the Sand cherry, Prunus besseyi, that was marketed as the "Improved Dwarf Rocky Mountain Cherry," with fruit growing as large as the Richmond cherry. Luther Burbank argued in his 1922 book, Fruit Improvement page 149, that this Sand cherry tree was more truly a plum tree.

Cherries are usually marketed with the stem still attached to the fruit. When canned or preserved, the stems are customarily removed from the cherry. Hybridizers such as Luther Burbank concentrated on improving several characteristics that were important in marketing the fruit: the size, color, flavor, and sweetness. Burbank produced one cultivar so rich in sugar and it hung on the tree, instead of the rapid decay, after ripening on the tree as experienced with most cherry cultivars.

Cold hardiness was considered to be very important in cherry tree hybridization and Burbank used the bird cherry, Prunus pennsylvanica, that had withstood temperatures of negative 60 degrees Fahrenheit near Hudson Bay as one parent of the cherry hybrid, since it was considered to be the most cold hardy of all cherry trees. In considering the many disease and insect problems that cherries experienced, Burbank suggested that hybridizers concentrate on breeding immunity genes into cherries to bypass "spraying and gassing." Burbank is greatly admired for his strong environmental stand by modern day conservationists.

The common wild black cherry, Prunus serotina, is found growing in most of Eastern North America. The small cherries are grown in great abundance and are reliably produced in large crops, even in the coldest regions of the United States. There are efforts to hybridize the desirable genes of this cherry into existing clones of commercial cherry cultivars. The problem with this native cherry tree is that all parts of the tree and fruit contain the deadly toxin cyanogens, which have caused death and illness to children from cyanide poisoning in the fruit, even though birds don't appear to be affected from eating the fruit.

Cherry trees in orchard situations grow 10 to 15 feet tall to manage the fruit harvesting properly, even though the can grow to 30 feet if not pruned. Cherry trees are very cold hardy down to negative 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and require approximately one thousand or more chill hours for an abundant fruit set. Pollination is not a great problem with cherry tree production. Rootstock selection for cherry trees is "Mazzard," Prunus mahaleb, or "Gisela" or the recent Geissen, German rootstocks.

The principal cherry commercial fruits grown in the United States are the sour cherries, Prunus cerasus L., that make up 99% of all production. These cherries are important in baking cherry pies and cherry tarts, as well as in frozen fruit packs or in canning.

The most famous sour cherry is the "Maraschino" cherry that is used in cherry pies, cakes, juices, jams, jellies, mixed drinks, ice cream, and a host of other ways. This cherry is bright red in color and commonly seen on grocery store shelves in clear glass jars and bottles.

Sweet cherry cultivars, Prunus avium L., are increasingly in demand and sold at U.S. markets. Bing cherries are well known as a fresh fruit item. This cherry is dark purple-red and is firm and has excellent shipping qualities. Other important sweet cherries are 'Napoleon' and 'Ranier,' a USDA release that is bright red with yellow undertones in the background. The Lambert cherry is good to use in canning as is the Stella. The Black Tartarian cherry is a sweet cherry commonly available from mailorder and internet catalogs.

Cherries are rated high in antioxidant levels that offer great health benefits such as treating Gout. Many internet sites promote fresh cherry consumption as being the miracle cure and fast recovery from attacks of Gout. Some internet sites offer concentrated cherry extracts and powders of dried cherries as a cure. Cherries offer other health benefits in their high content of Vitamin A, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin C, Niacin, and the minerals Calcium, Phosphorus, Iron, and Potassium.

Japanese flowering cherry trees are the most widely adapted and popular flowering tree growing in the United States today. The multi-colored flowers of Yoshino cherry, Prunux x yodoensis, and Kwanzan cherry are seen early in the season, and the buds open into clusters of abundant, long lasting flowers that dominate the landscape of our nation's capitol , Washington, D.C. Japanese flowering cherry trees Prunus serrulata 'Kwanzan' were planted in Washington D.C. as a gift of the Japanese people to American citizens, largely through the efforts of President Taft's wife, the first lady. Thousands of these Japanese cherry trees were planted, and many tourists flock to the Capitol in the spring to experience that flowering extravaganza. Cherry blossom festivals, celebrations, and get-togethers are held yearly in cities throughout the country, when cherry trees are in flower to crown "Cherry Queens" and to schedule beauty pageants.

The most popular Japanese flowering cherry trees are Prunus serrulata 'Kwanzan'; Akebono Cherry, Prunus x yedoensis 'Akebono'; Weeping Japenese Cherry, Prunus subhirtella var. pendula; Takesimensis cherry, Prunus takesimensis; Usuzeumi Cherry, Prunus spachiana f. ascendens; Autumn Flowering Cherry, Prunus subhirtella var. autumnalis; Sargent Cherry, Prunus sargentii; Fugenzo Cherry, Prunus serrulata 'Fugenzo' and Okame Cherry, Prunus 'Okame'.

Copyright 2006 Patrick Malcolm

Learn more about various trees by visiting the author's website: http://www.tytyga.com

Gardening Growing Tasty Tomatoes

Writen by Michael Russell

For the gardening enthusiast there can be very little that surpasses the satisfaction obtained from growing and eating vegetables and fruits from your own garden. In this article we will look at the motivation and the method for growing tomatoes.

Let's look first at a brief history of this once much maligned fruit. It is believed to have originated from ancient Peru, where today you can still find several wild species growing. From there it was taken to and cultivated in Mexico and then found it's way to Europe. In Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries, it was believed by many to be poisonous, as it is a member of the deadly nightshade plant family. The actual reason though was found to be the manner of cooking. Rich people at that time used platters made of pewter, which has a very high lead content. The high acidic content of tomatoes would cause the lead to be leeched from the platter into the food, resulting in lead poisoning and many times death. The poorer people, who used wooden boards as platters, had no problem.

Today, with a growing concern and emphasis on healthy living and nutrition, the tomato has become a vital part of a healthy diet. Its main benefit is Lycopene, which is one of nature's most powerful antioxidants. Some other beneficial properties of the tomato are the calcium and vitamin C content. A recent study showed that those living in Northern Italy, who ate a minimum of 7 servings of raw tomato per week, had up to 60% less chance of developing cancers of the colon, prostrate, cervix and stomach, when compared to people who ate 2 servings or less.

The best tomatoes to eat are those that have been home grown, free of pesticides. They should be ripened while still on the vine.

Let's look now at the method for growing tomatoes. It is mainly a summer crop. The soil needs to be well prepared using well-decomposed compost. You can sow the seeds directly into the soil in shallow holes and spaced about 2 - 2 ½ cm apart. Cover the seeds with fine soil. When the seedlings are about 10cm high, they must be transplanted to the final positions. Refrain from watering the seedlings for about 3 days before transplanting. This tends to harden the seedling. They need to now be spaced from 60cm to 1metre apart. This wider spacing allows air to be able to circulate freely and prevent humidity building up. Excessive humidity causes a fungal infection detrimental to the plant.

Once the plants are established, they must be mulched. Add some 6:1:5 fertilizer for flowers and fruit. When the plants start maturing they will need to be staked. The fruit must be kept clear of the ground. Tomatoes need consistent watering, but only at root level, using either flooding or drip type irrigation, or by watering with a fine spray rose directly to the base of the plant. This is to prevent fungal attacks on the leaves and fruit.

The tomato fruit should be ready for harvesting from 6 - 8 weeks after planting. The tastiest tomato is the one which is ripened on the vine. If green tomatoes still remain on the vines at the end of the season, they can be picked and placed next to bananas or apples. These contain certain elements that cause the tomato to ripen more quickly. After the last picking, the entire plant must be removed and if there is any sign of root damage from eelworms, the plant should be burned.

So, there you have it. The how's, why's and wherefores of growing your own crop of healthy, tasty tomatoes.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Gardening

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Build A Simple Planter Box

Writen by Donald Rohde

Love flowers, but don't have the space -- or the desire -- to plant a garden? You may want to try making your own flower box, which can be just about any size you wish.

This planter box is built with a top and a bottom exterior frame; then you affix cedar panels to the frame and add bottom panels. After that, just add plants for a touch of spring anywhere you want to put it!

Expert tip: Always draw a diagram before you build anything. Remember: If you can't draw it, you can't build it! You don't have to be Leonardo Divinci, just that YOU can read it!! Your diagram will be useful in helping you determine the size of your project and the amount of lumber you'll need. Simply take the finished diagram with you when you go shopping, and you'll be sure to get everything your project requires.

Materials:

Four Lengths of 26 Inch 1x2 Cedar
Four Lengths of 13 Inch 1x2 Cedar
Twelve Side & End Panels 5 ½ Inches x 12 ¼
Two Base Panels 1 Inch x 6 Inches x 24 Inches
Wood glue
Galvanized nails
Hammer
Stainless-steel or Ceramic Coated Screws
Drill driver and bits
Speed square

Note: All our sections were precut, so they just need assembly. If you can't or don't wish to cut your own lumber, home-supply stores will generally cut it for you for a small fee.

Expert tip: Before you begin hammering, use sandpaper to rough up the striking surface of your hammer. Then it's less likely to slip while you're working.

Building the Frames
Build the top and bottom frames out of the 1x2 cedar strips. You'll be butting the ends together, so no mitering will be necessary.

1.Fasten two 26" strips to two 13" strips to form each rectangular frame. (You'll need to ensure that the length remains 26"; to do this, butt the ends of the shorter strip against the longer strips. The thickness of the two longer strips will add an inch to each end of the shorter strips, increasing their length to 16". Do this at each end of the longer strips to form a rectangular frame 26" long and 16" wide.)
2. Apply a bead of wood glue to the junctions of the strips; then nail together with a single nail in each junction in preparation for inserting screws to hold them more securely.
3. Predrill the ends prior to screwing them together; this helps keep the ends from splitting. Then insert a screw in each corner.

Attaching the Side Panels

1. Stand the two frames on their sides and apply a bead of wood glue to the inside face of the bottom side frames (the long sides).
2. Attach four side panels to each long side, smooth sides out, and nail from the inside to hold them in place. Make sure the frames are flush with the panel ends on at least one side, or the bottom panels won't fit properly. If the panels are jagged on the other side, you can always smooth them with a trim saw later.

Tip: Because you're nailing from the inside, you may have to drive the nails at a slight angle. The advantage of this is that it conceals the nailheads from the exterior face of the window box.
3. Repeat step 2 on the other side of the box.

Attaching the End Panels

1. Stand the half-completed box on its end and apply a bead of wood glue to the inside face of the bottom end frames.
2. Attach two panels to each end in the same manner that you used to attach the side panels, once again ensuring that the ends are flush on the bottom.
3. Repeat the process on the opposite end.

Attaching the Bottom Panels

1. Check and if necessary adjust your box for square.
2. Attach three bottom panels to form the base of the planter box, using wood glue and screws. The base will reinforce and brace the box.
3. Drill several holes in the panels so that water can escape, or simply leave a gap between the panels.

Finishing

Lightly sand any rough edges and corners to smooth out splinters. Now it's time to feel, smell, kiss and hug your new planter box, because it looks so good – and you did it yourself!

Homework!

If you wish, you can stain, seal or prime and paint your planter to suit your home's decor. Because you used cedar, however, it can stay unfinished: cedar is one of the best lumbers you can use for exterior applications.
This planter is a good size for potted plants, but you may wish to add a plastic liner and fill it with soil (add a layer of gravel first). If you do, don't forget to cut holes in the liner to line up with the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.

Enjoy planting!

Courtesy: Cedar Creek Woodshop http://www.cedarcreekwoodshop.com

Bulbs Planting In Autumn Ensures A Colourful Spring

Writen by James Kilkelly

In the spring, a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love. Whereas in autumn a gardeners fancy turns to spring. No sooner has autumn set in than we gardeners begin to think of spring and spring bulb planting. There is a wide selection of bulbs available for planting now and blooming in spring, the following is just a small selection those available…

Allium (flowering garlic),

Anemone (wind flower),

Crocus,

Cyclamen,

Galanthus (Snowdrop),

Hyacinth,

Iris,

Narcissus (daffodil),

Scillia (bluebell),

Tulip,

Now, choosing the right bulbs involves more than just selecting colours and flowers you like. Bulb size and more importantly, bulb health are equally significant factors in selecting your spring garden bulbs. I suggest you carry out my personal quality test for bulbs before you go ahead and plant.

Healthy bulbs should be firm and heavy for their size. They should not feel overly dry or light. Certain bulbs (daffodils etc) will have loose and peeling skin, this is normal and nothing to worry about.

In the case of bulbs, "bigger is better", big bulbs usually mean a large amount of stored food to produce brilliant blooms the following season. Smaller, bargain bulbs may take two years to produce blooms good enough for your garden.

The colour of the bulbs skin should be uniform with no dark or light patches. Any bulbs with weak or spongy areas should not be planted, this is often a tell tale sign of rot. If the bulbs you select appear to tick all the above boxes then you are well on your way to a colourful return from this season's bulb planting.

Weather permitting; you should try to plant your bulbs quite soon upon arriving home from the garden centre. Bulbs continually deteriorate the longer they are out of the soil. If you cannot plant them right away, store them in a cool place such as your garden shed or garage. Never store them in closed bags as they might rot. Bulbs need to breathe; this is why you will see garden centre displaying bulbs in perforated or net bags.

James Kilkelly is a freelance horticulturalist and garden writer for four Irish regional newspapers. His forum, http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/ offers you free access to an incredible wealth of horticultural information specific to Ireland. He also regularly posts his expert advice to a gardening community at http://www.gardenstew.com/

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Tough Perennials For Dry Shade

Writen by Yvonne Cunnington

Most shade plants prefer moist soil, so dry shade is a special challenge for gardeners. Many shade trees have root systems that spread beyond the crown, and their roots are strong competitors for soil nutrients and moisture.

You're most likely to find dry shade under trees with wide-spreading, shallow roots, such as Norway maple, beech, and willow, and, of course, evergreen trees. So what can you plant in dry shade?

The following plants will perk up a dry, shady spot in your garden - which is not to say that they prefer dryness, just that they'll do better in dryer conditions than other shade plants. I find that small-sized plants sold in four-inch pots are easier to tuck in between tree roots than larger ones. The smaller the planting holes, the less you have to chop away at roots.

Be sure to water your new plants well in the first couple of months while they're getting established. After that, to give your plants the best possible chance in dry shade conditions, continue to water deeply and fertilize them once a month throughout the growing season.

Survivor perennials for dry shade

If these plants don't work, or you want to do the least amount of work possible, you can just take the path of least resistance and put a layer of mulch under your trees.

  • Barren strawberry (Waldsteinia): A low-growing, dense mat of leaves that slightly resemble those of strawberries.

  • Big-root geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum): Attractive and aromatic leaves, flowers in late spring in colors ranging from white to pink and magenta, depending on cultivar. Not to be confused with the common annual geraniums of the genus Pelargonium.

  • Bishop's hat, or barrenwort (Epimedium x versicolor ): Attractive heart-shaped leaves. With its delicate yellow flowers, 'Sulphureum' is the most popular cultivar.

  • Dead nettle (Lamium maculatum): Look for cultivars such as 'Beacon Silver' with rosy pink flowers and silver leaves edged in green or the white-blooming 'White Nancy'.

  • Heart-leaved bergenia (Bergenia cordifolia): Large, leathery leaves and rose-pink flowers in early spring-looks great in a big grouping.

  • Sweet woodruff (Gallium odoratum): Finely textured leaves and white flowers in spring-top-flight ground cover in dry shade.

  • Ground cover plants: To make it really easy, consider the big three ground covers - English ivy, pachysandra, and periwinkle - which are all tough evergreen perennial plants. However, be cautious with the ivy, as it has become invasive in some regions.

Garden writer Yvonne Cunnington is the author of a book for beginner gardeners called Clueless in the Garden: A Guide for the Horticulturally Helpless. For more information about shade gardening, see http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/Shade-gardening.html | For more expert gardening tips, visit her website at http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com

Thatch And How To Manage It

Writen by Terry Blackburn

Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.

Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.

The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)

Environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are commonly met.

As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.

Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.

Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.

Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifying is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

Friday, December 19, 2008

Using An Outdoor Canopy To Create New Living Space

Writen by John Bri

Creating "backyard living spaces" is one of the hot trends in garden landscaping and home décor. Whether your desire is for a place to host parties, or simply to sit back and enjoy a quiet place, the idea is simply to get away from it all right in your own yard. Adding the right outdoor canopy provides has a special role in creating that perfect environment.

As more people view their backyards as prime living spaces, the boundaries between indoor and outdoor living areas become blurred. Even remote corners of the backyard have become places of refuge and entertainment as we look for ways to make our yard a place to "be", instead of simply another pretty landscape to look at.

Of course, the backyard has always been one of our favorite places to gather with family and friends for entertaining, cooking, or just plain relaxing. It's also the easiest way to get everyone away from the television, and outside to enjoy the nice weather.

Another motivator for increasing the usability of the backyard is the increasing costs of housing and land. Although not as expensive as a room addition, even patios and wooden decks are plenty pricey. This moves people to create more with what they already have, especially if budgets are limited.

Creating A Room Without Walls

If you are willing to do a little planning, even a small yard can become a prime living space, without the exorbitant expense of a home add-on or renovation. The great advantage of your 'backyard room' is flexibility, and there are many ways to create a backyard 'room'that is both beautiful and functional.

You can select functional 'furnishings' such as the lovers' swing, a hammock, grill, chaise lounge, or a patio dining table. Then create the atmosphere and decorative style you want by integrating such elements as a fountain, trellis, or special flower plantings.

There is no need to fill every space – let the wide-open outdoors give a sense of roominess to even the smallest garden spot or corner.

However, you'll still need to define the edges of your 'room without walls' in order to give it a feeling of completeness. Creating a sense of enclosure ties everything together in the style and purpose that you want – all without obscuring the best views of your garden. This enclosure can be achieved with a patio border, a bed of flowers, or decorative benches. Then consider one of the many styles of outdoor shade canopies.

An outdoor canopy unifies the furniture and other items in your 'room' by creating a ceiling and a sense of defined space. It should blend into the theme and style of your landscape. And from a distance, an attractive shade canopy is also a focal point that invites anyone who sees it to approach and enjoy its' shade.

Choosing The Right Outdoor Canopy

The many colors, styles and sizes in garden canopies makes it easy to find the right choice for a specific event, or to fit naturally into the landscape design. Most are made from weather-resistant polyester, or a sturdy polyethylene material. Both types are easily cleaned and will last several years.

Whether your backyard is large or small, formal or informal, there is a canopy size and style to fit. For the large yard, shade canopies up to 20x30 are excellent as a poolside shelter, party tent, outdoor dining area, or the centerpiece for a family or social gathering.

For the small yard or a tiny corner of a larger area, one of the popular 10x10 pop-up canopies works perfectly. It has plenty of room for a patio table and seating for 6-8 people, and can be setup and taken down in minutes when the mood or weather dictates. And without canopy sidewalls, even the smallest area will maintain that all-important open and airy look and feel.

Outdoor canopies don't have to be costly. You can get a cheap version at your local discount store. But this is a bit like a $2 umbrella in a rain storm – you take your chances. Like any piece of furniture, pay for quality, and you'll get much more enjoyment and longevity for your money.

There are many ways to create an outdoor space that is both beautiful and functional. And your "room" can easily evolve over the years as your needs and landscape changes.

By selecting the right outdoor canopy, and doing a little planning, you'll find yourself enjoying the great outdoors more than ever – right in your own backyard.

John Bri is a regular contributor to That Covers It!, a collection of helpful information on outdoor canopies for cars, parties, and the garden.

You can get more information about outdoor canopies at http://www.that-covers-it.com

Incorporate A Water Feature In Your Landscaping

Writen by Bill Prudehome

A water feature placed strategically in a landscape or garden provides a dynamic element to what is usually a static design. Water elements provide tranquility and a sense of calm. The sound and visual effects provided by flowing water are known for their soothing and stress relieving qualities. As a side benefit water features have been known to increase property values by as much as 10%.

Water features can be as simplistic as a statue acting as a fountain to highly complex designs that mimic natural features with multiple terraces and water cascading over a rock bed. Water flow can be slow or swift, with the feature used as a background or as the predominant design element. Only your imagination and budget control the final appearance.

Attract wildlife, from an abundance of birds to squirrels and chipmunks and depending on the location of your property larger animals such as deer. Depending on your climate adding fish to ponds and streams enhances the overall water feature.

The addition of a water feature allows you to dramatically expand the types of plants and flora that can be incorporated into your landscaping.

Many individuals hesitate when considering adding a water feature because of they feel that they are complex to install and require a great deal of maintenance. The complexity of the installation is relative to how dramatic the water feature is and the level of maintenance is relative to the initial investment in the quality of the pumping, aeration and filtration equipment installed.

In the past it was necessary to buy numerous components for your water feature and hope that all the different pieces of equipment were compatible with one another. Now many manufactures are supplying complete kits that contain all of the necessary pumps, filters, aerators, piping and connectors to ensure that all of the pieces of hardware work in conjunction with one another.

Once you have determined that you are going to install a water feature within your landscaping check with your municipal building department for any special requirements and if a permit is required. Remember that water features are difficult to relocate and usually expensive to modify. Planning is the key to success.

For additional information on landscaping your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Growing And Caring For Rhododendrons And Azaleas

Writen by Michael McGroarty

Azaleas can be either evergreen or deciduous. Deciduous Azaleas are known as Mollis or Exbury Azaleas. They bloom in the early spring with vivid orange and yellow colors. They can be grown from seed if the seeds are collected in the fall and sown on top of moist peat at about 70 degrees F.

Evergreen Azaleas are known as broad leaf evergreens because they do not have needles. They bloom later in the spring, and are usually propagated in the fall over bottom heat discussed in detail at http://www.freeplants.com Rhododendrons are also broad leaf evergreens and are also propagated over bottom heat in early winter.

The best time to prune Rhododendrons and Azaleas is in the spring right after they bloom. These plants start setting next year's flower buds over the summer, and late pruning will cost you some blooms next year, so get them pruned as soon as they finish blooming. It's also a good idea to pick off the spent blooms so the plants don't expel a lot of energy making seeds, unless of course you'd like to grow them from seed. But keep in mind that they don't come true from seed.

Seeds from a red Rhododendron are likely to flower pale lavender. Cuttings ensure a duplicate of the parent plant. How do you prune Rhododendrons and what does pinching a Rhododendron mean? These are frequently asked questions.

Pinching is a low impact form of pruning that is very effective for creating nice, tight full plants when you are growing small plants from seeds or cuttings. Typically a Rhododendron forms a single new bud at the tip of each branch. This new bud will develop into another new branch, another bud will form and the process will continue. If left alone this will produce a very lanky plant with a lot of space between the branches, forming a very unattractive plant.

So if you are starting with a plant that is nothing more than a rooted cutting all you have to do is pinch off this new growth bud as soon as it is about 3/8" long. Just grab it between your fingers and snap it completely off. When you do this the plant usually responds by replacing that single bud with two, three, or even four new buds in a cluster around the bud that you pinched off. Each one of these buds will develop into branches and eventually a single bud will appear at the tip of each of these branches, and of course you should come along and pinch each one of those off, forcing the plant to produce multiple buds at the end of each of these branches.

The more often you pinch off these single buds, the more branches the plant will form, making a nice, tight, full plant. This is especially helpful with young plants such as rooted cuttings or young seedlings.

But what about larger plants, how do I prune them? I prune mine with hedge shears!!! I just have at it and trim them like I would a Taxus or a Juniper, and guess what? The result is a very tight compact plant loaded with beautiful flowers. My Rhododendrons are so tightly branched that you cannot see through them, and that is the result of vigorous pruning with hedge shears. Sure you can use hand shears, and you'll have a nicer plant because of it, but I just use the hedge shears because that's the tool that I happen to have in my hand as I am going by.

Keeping Rhododendrons and Azaleas healthy and happy is as simple as understanding what they like. First of all, they like to grow in a climate that suits their tastes. Many varieties of both don't like it in the north, and to prove the point they will up and die as soon as extreme cold weather hits. Buy plants that are known to be hardy in your area.

Here in zone 5 (northern Ohio) the following Azaleas seem to do well: Hino Crimson (red), Stewartstonia (red), Herbert (lavender), Cascade (white), Delaware Valley (white), and Rosebud (pink). Hardy Rhododendrons include Roseum Elegans (pinkish lavender), English Roseum (pinkish lavender), Nova Zembla (red), Lee's Dark Purple, Chinoides (white), and Cunningham's (white).

How should you fertilize Rhododendrons and Azaleas? These broadleaf evergreens are laid back and like to take it slow and easy. Do not fertilize them with quick release nitrogen fertilizers, it could kill them. Instead give them an organic snack, like Millorganite or well rotted cow manure or compost. Millorganite is an organic fertilizer made of granulated sewage sludge.

No, it doesn't smell any worse than other fertilizers, and plants like it because it is plant and soil friendly. It won't burn the plants, and it actually reactivates the micro-organisms in the soil. That's a good thing. Most full service garden centers carry Millorganite.

A long time ago somebody let the word out that Rhododendrons are acid loving plants, and people are always asking me if I think their struggling Rhododendron needs more acid. The answer is no. Your struggling Rhododendron probably needs a great big gulp of oxygen around its root system.

Rhododendrons do not like wet feet. They don't even like high humidity let alone wet soil around their roots. They like to be high and dry, and like an unobstructed flow of oxygen to their roots. You can accomplish this by planting them in a bed raised at least 10" with good rich topsoil. They will be smiling from branch to branch.

A few years back my friend Larry and I had several hundred small Rhododendrons that we were going to grow on to larger plants. We planted most of them in Larry's backyard which is fairly good soil, but a little sticky. We didn't have room for all of them so we planted the last 105 down the road from my house in a field we were renting. (Never heard of anybody renting a field? You should get out more.)

This location had absolutely no water for irrigating and the soil was very dry and rocky. Other plants at that location often struggled during the dog days of summer due to the lack of water, but those Rhododendrons were as happy as pigs in mud. They outgrew the ones at Larry's house by twice the rate and we sold them years earlier than the others.

My point? Rhododendrons don't like wet feet. They do well in the shade, but contrary to popular belief they do even better in full sunlight.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Homemade Weed Killer

Writen by Andrew Bicknell

Many people struggle to kill the weeds in their lawns and gardens for the reason that they do not want to use a commercially made chemical herbicide. The safety of using these commercially available weed killers is not entirely known. While the manufacturers and even government agencies say they are safe the long term affects of the continued use of these toxic chemicals and their affects on people and other living creatures is not entirely known.

For those of us who do not want our children and pets exposed to these toxic chemicals trying to find a way to kill the weeds overgrowing our yards and gardens can be tough. What many people do not realize is that there are many non-toxic ways to kill weeds right around their home.

While there are many different recipes out there for a homemade weed killer most of them are based off of the following:

• 1 gallon of white vinegar.

• 1 cup of table salt.

• 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.

Mix everything together making sure the salt is completely dissolved. You can then pour this into a spray bottle or one of those weed sprayers you can get at any garden center. You spray this solution directly on the weeds you want to get rid of preferably on a hot day. One thing to remember with this solution is to not get it on anything you don't want to kill and don't spray it on the soil. It is non-selective in what it kills meaning it will kill any plant life it comes in contact with and it will sterilize the soil for up to two years depending on how much you get on the soil.

If you are concerned about getting the vinegar solution on your desirable plants you can use a cloth to wipe the solution on the leafy parts of the weeds. This will keep any of the solution from coming in contact with the plants you want to keep. If you use this method it is advisable to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands from the acidic affects of the vinegar.

If you don't want to use this formula for a homemade weed killer then you can always rely on the tried and true method of hand-pulling any weeds you find in your landscape. Eventually the weeds lose the ability to create enough food for their roots to continue to grow and their roots will die off. This actually works best if you don't have a lot of weeds in your yard or garden.

The nice thing about using a bio-degradable homemade weed killer is that you are not harming the micro-organisms that live in the soil. These micro-organisms create the fertile environment that helps your lawn, flowers and vegetables grow to their maximum potential. You are also protecting your family and pets from the harmful affects of the commercially available weed killers on the market today.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Flowers Guide

Writen by Joel S. Taylor

Flowers tend to be the gift of choice for many special occasions, including Mother's Day, Easter, and Valentine's Day. But did you know that flowers speak a language all their own? Every flower has a unique meaning based on its color and other distinguishing characteristics, so the next time you decide to buy a beautiful bouquet for someone you love, make sure the flowers you choose convey the right message.

Roses: Roses are the popular choice when it comes to flower selection. Modern cultivators of the rose tend to emphasize color and size more than any other aspect of the flower, whereas wild roses are often characterized by a strong, sweet scent.

For thousands of years, the rose has stood as a symbol for love and beauty. But the different rose colors also represent specific sentiments. For instance, red roses symbolize love, pink signify grace, and white convey innocence, purity, and secrecy. Yellow roses represent platonic love, and orange are symbolic of passion.

Lilies: Lilies are large-flowering and showy. They are often fragrant and come in a variety of colors including white, yellow, and red. Depending on the color, lilies can signify youthful innocence, purity, modesty, virginity, majesty, beauty, wealth, pride, and prosperity.

Tulips: Tulips are native to southern Europe, North Africa, and Asia. The European use of the word "tulip" was probably taken from the Persian word for turban, as flowers were often worn in the folds of a turban. Tulip meanings include: perfect lover, hopeless love, fame, love, and passion. They can say, "Believe me," "There is sunshine in your smile," and "I love you."

Iris: Deriving its name from the Latin word for rainbow, the iris is a flower that comes in many colors, as you might expect. Irises symbolize faith, wisdom, valor, promise, and hope. The fleur-de-lys also represents the Kings of France and is the official flower for the city of New Orleans.

Orchids: There are many varieties of orchids, more than any other plant family. Orchids were very popular and widely distributed in the 19th century, resulting in about 25, 000 varieties. Orchids represent love, beauty, refinement, and mature charm.

Daisies: Daisies have been admired by people for thousands of years, and used as decoration for just as much time. In ancient Greece and Egypt, this pretty flower inspired the local artists to create hairpins and ceramics decorated with its likeness. The daisy embodies notions of innocence, loyal love, purity, gentleness, and romance. It also sends the message, "I'll never tell" to someone whose secrets you have promised to keep.

Sunflowers: It's no surprise where the sunflower got its name – this flower always faces the sun. Originating in Central and South America, sunflowers were originally cultivated for practical uses, rather than for beauty. The sunflower has different meanings, depending on the culture. In China it is seen as a symbol of longevity, while Native Americans leave a bowl of sunflower seeds on the graves of their deceased loved ones as a sign of grief.

Carnations: Hailing from the Near East, carnations have been a part of human culture for the past 2000 years. The origins of the name are contested, but it is generally thought to derive from the Greek word "carnis"(flesh), perhaps referring to the original color for which this flower was known. Carnations are the perfect emblem of womanly love, devoted love, and admiration. Carnations say, "My heart aches for you," and "I'll never forget you," so if you send someone you love a bouquet of fresh carnations you've made the right choice.

Flower enthusiast, Gardening hobbiest, Plant Lover flowers cheap flowers

Monday, December 15, 2008

Kolkwitzia Amabilis Pink Cloud

Writen by Alan Summers

A Profusion of Blooms from Grandmother's Garden My favorite deciduous shrub for mid-spring color is a plant that was widely grown in grandmother's times - Kolkwitzia amabilis, commonly and aptly named Beauty Bush. This plant was discovered in China around the turn of the last century by the world's preeminent plant explorer E.H. Wilson, who considered it one of his finest introductions. It quickly became very popular first in England and then here. In 1946, the Royal Horticultural Society's Wisley Gardens introduced an improved form with superior flowering. This week we are featuring that selection of Beauty Bush - appropriately named 'Pink Cloud.' 'Pink Cloud' blooms for several weeks in May (in cool seasons up to a month) with a fountain of thousands of bell-shaped, soft pink flowers with yellow throats. The blooms are displayed on arching stems and literally cover the plant, creating a singularly effective display.

With new horticultural techniques of container growing, unfortunately Beauty Bush fell into disfavor. It resents pot culture, looks spindly and weak in the container and is easily passed over. Once planted in the garden, however, it rapidly and reliably grows robustly. I consider Beauty Bush to be a far superior plant to Weigela, yet for every 100 Weigela you see, you may spot one Beauty Bush in someone's garden.

Maturing at eight feet tall and six feet wide, I have used Beauty Bush in my landscape designs as a screen, as a specimen and at the corner of a house in groups of three. It looks particularly striking surrounded by early-flowering red peonies. I have never seen an insect or disease on a Beauty Bush. It asks only for any reasonable soil that is well-drained. It grows best in full sun, but will tolerate very light shade. Kolkwitzia is incredibly drought tolerant. I have a specimen planted strategically as you come up my driveway that has been in place for years and has never seen a drop of water from a hose - even in the worst of droughts. For maximum flower production, after about 5 years we recommend an annual pruning right after the flowers fade. Either remove 1/3 of the stems (the oldest ones) at ground level or give the plant an all-over haircut, removing about 25% of the foliage mass.

Planting and Care

  • Hardy in Zones 4-8
  • Prefers a well-drained soil in full sun.
  • Fertilize with Plant-Tone in late fall and early spring.
  • When necessary, prune right after flowering.
  • Click here to view Pink Cloud on the Carroll Gardens website.

    Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

    Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

    Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

    Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.