Safe Pest Control Tips

Writen by Bill McRea

Have you ever wondered what exactly is up with Safe Pest Control? This informative report can give you an insight into everything you've ever wanted to know about Safe Pest Control.

Pest control must be done with utmost consideration to safety; safety in terms of the plants, animals and humans. This holds especially true for those with vegetable and organic gardens.

The main purpose of growing vegetables organically will be defeated if they become tainted with pest control chemicals.

Here are a few long-term maintenance tips to make pest control less damaging and more environmentally friendly.

1. Use the physical pest control process.

This may be accomplished through picking grubs off by hand, creating barriers and traps and plugging holes. Snails can be found hiding in damp places under rocks and towrds the base of those plants with straplike foliage.

2. Apply biological pest control.

Encourage predatory insects such as green lacewings and dragonflies to feed on aphids and other pests that attack your plants. You can do this by placing a shallow bowl of water in the garden. Dragonflies especially will hover around water. Bacterial insecticides such as B. thuringiensis could also be used against caterpillars.

Truthfully, the only difference between you and Safe Pest Control Tips experts is time. If you'll invest a little more time in reading, you'll be that much nearer to expert status when it comes to Safe Pest Control Tips.

3. Only as a last resort should we turn to chemical pest control.

Organic pest control methods can be successful and the ingredients for many of the recipes can be found in the kitchen cupboards. If chemical sprays are really necessary, try and find the least-toxic. These include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, dehydrating dusts, etc.

4. Consider the use of safer pest control substitutes.

Recipes for alternative pest control include the following:

Against Green Aphids and Mites - Mix 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and a cup of vegetable oil. Dilute a teaspoon of this solution in a cup of water and spray on aphids and mites.

Against Cockroaches - Dusts of boric acid can be applied to cracks or entry points of these insects. Bay leaves on pantry shelves could also help in warding off these critters.

Make sure that the chemicals you use are made specifically for the insects you are targeting.

Is there really any information about Safe Pest Control that is nonessential? We all see things from different angles, so something relatively insignificant to one may be crucial to another.

Bill McRea is the publisher of Garden Facts also Garden Decor and Landscape Trees Landscaping and Gardening with information and products.

How To Clone With Success

Writen by Jason Willkomm

Every step here has a reason...either to reduce the stress on the new clone or to encourage root growth. Every drop of water you use will be plain water with 10 ml/gallon Thrive Alive B1 added. You will need to start with a sterile medium. If you use rockwool, you need to soak it for at least 24 hours (plain water and B1) before you use it, otherwise the ph is too alkaline.

Clones should be 4 to 6 inches long. You will have much better success taking your clones from a plant growing in the vegatative stage. Prepare your clones before you actually take them. At the top of each clone there should be a circle of leafy vegatation no larger than the bottom of a pop can. Trim any excess. Trim away any other vegetation along the stem. To make the cleanest, least damaging cut on the plant, you want to use a sharp razor. Do not use scissors, they will do damage. Wash your hands with soap and water. Pour a little alcohol onto the razor, than rinse it with a little tap water.

Fill an empty container with water and B1 mix. I find 1/2 gallon milk jugs to be very convenient for this. Open your cloning gel. Hold the branch firm just above the point of your cut. At a 45 degree angle, cut and dip the clone immediately in the gel. Swish it around for a second or two, and place it in the full milk jug. Each milk jug will fit 3 to 4 clones.

Keep the clones under a single fluorescent light, 4 to 6 inches beneath the bulbs. Mist the clones two or three times a day. Do not keep a fan on them, they prefer still, humid air at this point. The very most important thing is to keep them at 72 degrees. Keep them in the jug soaking for no less than 48 hours, and no more than 4 days.

After two days, put each clone into its own rockwool plug or its own container of sterile soilless mix. If using rockwool plugs, keep the end of the clone in the center of the plug, a 1/2 inch up from the bottom of the plug. I use a piece of tape around the center of the plug to keep it closed nicely around the clone.

Place the clones back under the fluorescent light, and continue to mist them 2 to 3 times a day. The first few days, keep them on the wet side. I usually give each one a little squirt with a turkey baster of water and B1 mix. After that, you can start letting them dry out just a little between waterings. Be sure to keep the nice 72 degree temperature.

In 7 to 10 days, you should see roots coming out the sides of your rockwool plugs. Transplant clones into 6 inch containers and begin feeding (mildly) as soon as roots appear. If you follow all these steps, you should have pretty near a 100% success rate....happy cloning!

For more info on cloning success, visit How to Clone with Success

Hi, my name is Jason, from Jason's Indoor Guide. I have ten years experience growing indoors, under lights. No less than two of those years I was using hydroponics methods. It is my goal to improve the results of every organic and hydroponics gardener through accurate, easy to understand information. Jason's Indoor Guide

How To Choose Your Garden Furniture And Make It Last

Writen by Rami Nseir

Garden furniture is now a fashion item as the patio and garden increasingly become an additional functional space to the home.

Before you buy any garden furniture it is strongly recommended that you do some research. Doing so will greatly increase your chances of buying garden furniture that is right for you and will last you a long time. Following are some important tips you need to consider before you buy.

Firstly decide whether you want stackable or foldaway furniture that will be put away in the shed or garage in winter or if you want permanent solid garden furniture that remains in situ all year round. If you want your garden furniture to be a permanent part of your garden for esthetic reasons then it is recommended that you go for heavy furniture made from hardwood, aluminum or wrought iron with rust proofing. It is well worth spending the money on the heavier more durable materials as this will be much more cost effective in the long run.

Choosing the right type of material and construction is paramount. Decide what kind of material for your garden furniture would best compliment your patio or garden. Select a material that will stay in balance with your garden.

Wood is the best all round as it is lightweight, esthetically pleasing and comfortable but requires some maintenance. Choose a tropical hardwood which is high in natural oil content like teak, iroko or courbaril. These woods are weather resistant and can be left outside throughout the year.

Make sure that mortice and tenon joints are used for your teak garden furniture and not bolts which corrode. If any metal fittings are used in the construction make sure they are made from brass, stainless steel or aluminum which are corrosion resistant.

Make sure the construction is only premium grade teak for our garden furniture, so any knots, cracks and other defects are eliminated before the timber is used to build the furniture. Additionally, Make sure your teak garden furniture is kiln dried to optimise moisture content and ensure shape is maintained and cracks are eliminated.

Teak garden furniture that is assembled using epoxy based glues tend to have the best performance and durability of all the types of joints as the epoxy resin used will not be affected by rain or frost.

If your teak garden furniture becomes dirty it is easy to clean with warm soapy water and a scrubbing brush which will enable you to restore the beautiful silver grey weathered look. If required a pressure hose can be used at 60-80 bar [900-1200psi] at a distance of no less than 30cm.

Once your teak garden furniture has weathered the colour will be enhanced by an annual scrub. A small amount of bleach added to the water will suppress any algae growth.

Any stains and grease spots can be immediately removed by washing down using a light detergent then rinsing off with clean water as soon as they occur. However, this is not essential as nature will take its course over time.

In dry weather small cracks will appear in the end of the grain timbers. This is natural and no action needs to be taken as when the moisture in the atmosphere increases the timber will return to its original condition.

It is not necessary to use teak oil or varnish as these will not extend the life of your garden furniture and are purely cosmetic. However, if you wish to preserve the as new appearance of your teak garden furniture the application of teak oil when the furniture is new will give a more lustre finish than leaving untouched. Please ensure you follow the manufacturer's instructions as usually this is a three stage process. Make sure the timber is completely dry when you apply the teak oil, otherwise the furniture will blacken.

Wrought iron garden furniture generally looks the best as it is usually hand crafted to give a unique look. The disadvantages of wrought iron furniture is that it is not as comfortable as wood and heavier to move around. Additionally, iron rusts so wrought iron garden furniture has to be especially coated to prevent it from rusting so make sure the supplier gives you at least a one year warranty against rust.

Finally, if you can, it is recommended that you invest in a cover for your garden furniture. Covers now come in all shapes and sizes and are well worth the money as they add years to the life of your garden furniture. Simply place the cover on your garden furniture every evening or when it rains, you will see the benefits in the long term.

Angus Charlton is managing director of Arboreta Garden Furniture Store ==>http://www.arboreta.co.uk He is a keen gardener who has developed a garden furniture business that resources from sustainable rainforests and contribute to the art of Feng Shui for gardens.

Planning Your Garden From Scratch The Planting

Writen by Michael Russell

"Planting" is the term professional gardeners use for…..plants. In other words, trees, shrubs, grasses, bedding plants, etc. and there are endless varieties to choose from. The easiest thing to do is to buy a book with a reference list in it showing the soil type, sun/shade and watering requirements. You can't plant something which hates bright sunlight alongside something that won't survive without it, so give it some thought at the outset. Most books also divide their listings into Trees and Shrubs, Climbers, Perennials, Annuals

I'm going to concentrate on flower-beds for the purposes of this article. If you want to grow vegetables and fruit, you will need a separate area which will need different treatment.

• Trees. Be very careful if you have a small garden. Trees have a habit of growing out of control, casting too much shade and their roots may end up digging up your drains. If you must have trees, choose something which doesn't grow too tall, too quickly. Bear in mind that some trees, such as lilac, need dead-heading once the flowers are finished.
• Shrubs. Some shrubs have flowers and some don't, some are evergreen and some aren't. In the main, they need pruning to keep a tidy shape, about once a year but otherwise are fairly forgiving.
• Roses provide lovely colour but they do need a little care. Dead flowers must be removed and spraying against a variety of pests and diseases is almost always needed. Some varieties have been bred to be disease-resistant, so for less effort, choose one of these.
• Perennials. Perennials do nothing for the first year if you grow them from seed so you will need a nursery bed or buy them ready to plant from a garden centre. They will, however, reappear year after year for about 3 or 4 years when they will wear out and need replacing. Some perennials can be split at the end of flowering to increase your stocks. Dead-heading prolongs the flowering period.
• Annuals are lovely for a splash of colour and unless left to seed themselves will need replacing every year. They are great for growing in pots or hanging baskets and they bloom for far longer if dead flowers are removed so are somewhat labour intensive. Don't grow perennials or annuals in other than a raised bed, if you have a bad back!
• Bulbs and corms. These vary tremendously. Some can be left in the ground year after year with little attention and some need to be dug up and stored. When choosing, consider what storage facilities are available. You won't want dahlia tubers living in the cupboard under your stairs.

  The easiest way to start is to draw a plan of your garden and divide the beds into manageable areas. On your plan, mark each bed as to the light it gets and whether there is any shade (full, dappled) and the state of the soil (e.g. dry, boggy, etc.).

  Next, decide whether you want to have formal colour-schemes for the whole garden or individual beds. Do you want a "shrubbery" or a "rose garden" or are you going to mix everything in together?

  If you already have pergolas or trellises in place then you obviously anticipate growing climbing plants, so mark these in on your plan.

  For beds which have a boundary fence or wall, work from the back in terms of plant height. There's no point planting something which will ultimately be four feet tall in front of something which never reaches more than two feet. Bear in mind that plants bush out. When I first started gardening, I was so keen to fill all the spaces that I had to keep moving plants around as they became larger and overcrowded.

  Circular beds (for example in the middle of lawns) look best with plants of similar height but if you want some tall and some short, work from the centre towards the edges.

  Whichever style of bed you have, remember that you're going to have to reach those plants at the back or in the centre, in order to prune or dead-head them so leave a bit of room to manoeuvre. Better still, put down some flat stones which you can stand on while working in the bed.

  When you've decided on the plants you want and have marked them on your plan, make a note of the planting requirements (depth, distance apart), feeding and watering regime and ongoing care (e.g. pruning). You'll be glad of this organisation when you come to actually putting the stuff in the ground.

  Look out for the next article on preparing your beds and actually doing the planting.

  
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  Michael Russell
  Your Independent guide to Gardening
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Benefits Of Landscape Lighting

Writen by Laurence Clunie

Landscape lighting is a home improvement trend sweeping the nation and is one of the most popular features in outdoor home improvement. It is one of the most dramatic improvements you can make to your home…front yard or back. Landscape lighting is breathtaking in its beauty and provides a safe, secure and welcoming environment to come home to. Also, low voltage landscape lighting is affordable, effective and is a primary deterrent to residential crime.

Low-voltage landscape lighting is easy and safe to install, is safe for kids and pets, and it consumes less power than line voltage lighting. Pathways, ponds, statues, trees, and shrubs all produce a serene environment when landscape lighting is applied. Landscape lighting is a great way to line your driveway or sidewalks.

Nothing else enhances your garden or yard at night better than exterior lighting. It provides an ambient effect to trees, shrubs and flowers. Garden lighting also has a practical side. It is a great way to mark pathways or accent garden areas. Get the full use out of your garden, yard and patio areas by adding decorative landscape lighting to your outdoor spaces. With outdoor lights you will also feel safer in your yard as you come home to relax in your garden. A garden with low-voltage landscape lighting can bring a whole new setting to the home and provide the perfect spot for outdoor entertaining.

Landscapes emerge at dark under subtle outdoor landscape lighting to create wonderful shapes in hauntingly beautiful sculptured drama. To brighten up an overall outdoor look, and highlight a home's best features, homeowners can create an effective low-voltage landscape lighting system.

In conclusion, low-voltage landscape lighting is a low-cost system to install and run, that makes a home stand out from its neighbors. It will bring beauty and security to your home and landscape. Fine landscape lighting is like a gift of additional time to enjoy your surroundings.

The low voltage lighting path lights offered at http://www.gardenandpatiodecor.com/site/856859/page/456516 provide unassuming landscape lighting to transform dark areas into safe, showcased landscaped elements.

Get Rid Of Lizards

Writen by Emma Drosy

They may seem cute and friendly when you're watching the Animal Planet or Discovery, but not all lizards want to be your friend. In fact, some lizards can be dangerous pests. Do you know how to get rid of lizards once they're infiltrated your property?

The only way to get rid of lizards is to get rid of them. First, you might try attacking their food supply. In what areas of your property are you noticing the most lizard activity? Work on controlling the insect population with bug sprays and other bug repellents, and this should greatly decrease the lizards you're seeing.

Independent creatures, even taking away their food may not make all the lizards go away. Unfortunately, one of the only way to get rid of lizards is to dispose of them in nature's way. Common house cats are natural predators of lizards (because cats can be vicious and lizards are just the right size). You may want to let a cat prowl the area where lizards have been spotted. These natural feline hunters will do a lot more to get rid of lizards than you ever could.

If cats aren't your thing, however, you don't want to get a cat just to get rid of lizards. Then, you have to worry about getting rid of the cat. You can try using trap to get rid of lizards. Glue traps usually work the best. You want to try to eliminate the food supply before you work to get rid of lizards, however. You may get rid of existing lizards, but food supply will lead more lizards to your land. So deal with the bugs in the area first, and then deal with the lizards themselves.

You may try powders and other repellents to get rid of lizards. Many of these products are non-toxic and will not harm your grass or other plants. These powders and products work to naturally repel lizards without hurting them, so that they'll leave the area. However, you'll need to regularly apply such repellents to make sure the lizards stay away.

Once you know how to get rid of lizards, your backyard is safe again. Now, you can worry about all the other pests you might find in your backyard.

Get Rid of Lizards for Good!

Tricky Seed Sowing Techniques

Writen by Doug Green

Now is an excellent time to sow pansies and begonia seed to have them ready for planting out in May. Start with a flowerpot filled to within a half inch of the rim with good artificial or potting soil. Sterilize the soil by soaking it with boiling water. Allow the boiling water to pour out the bottom of the pot while continuing to pour in the top. This will kill most common problems before they get started.

In the case of pansies, sow the pansy seed on top of the soil and then cover with a thin layer of soil right over top of the seed. The right depth is one that just barely covers the seed. If you plant too deeply, the seed will not germinate. Pansy seed does require darkness to germinate properly so you do have to cover it.

Begonia seed is finer than fairy dust and has to be handled very carefully. I recommend mixing your seed with a package of kitchen gelatin and then spreading the gelatin equally around the flowerpot. Do NOT cover begonia seed. They are so fine that any covering will kill them.

Keep the soil warm (I use a small plant heating pad unit available at garden stores to maintain 72F soil temperature) and damp. Use only warm water to water the seedlings, cold water chills the soil delaying germination. Have patience. Pansy seed takes several weeks to germinate while begonia seed can take upwards of a month (and be tiny green specks for the first month after that). You can see container planting tricks here to see how to use these plants in hanging baskets and deck containers.

The key to success is to keep the soil warm – soil sitting in a pot without supplemental heating will average ten degrees colder than your room temperature. Those heating mats will dramatically improve your success rate with all seeds.

Doug Green is an award winning garden author with 7 books published, a syndicated column and a website for all things gardening at http://www.simplegiftsfarm.com

Lawn Care Tips For Everybody

Writen by Clark Covington

Lawns often vary in size, shape, and form for most homes. Some lawns are beautifully ornate with lush gardens, and pruned to look like art. Other lawns are thick with weeds, grass, and often give off a sense of an old style farm to passers by. There of course are thousands of other types of lawns that typically fall in between the categories of impeccably groomed, and garden of weeds. For all lawn owners, no matter what type, there are several helpful tips to maintain your lawn, because no matter the look of the lawn, it will hopefully be one that's healthy.

The first thing lawn owners should do is create an ideal lawn type they are striving to achieve. It's often said that we can't know where we are going unless we have a destination to begin with. Many lawn owners make the mistake of winging it, or going with whatever inspires them that day. This can lead to unforeseen obstacles, as well as changes of heart in the overall design or landscape of the lawn. To create a visualization of the ideal lawn should take time, and sincere thought. Once you have a vision for your lawn, write it down, review it for plausibility, and start to plan for what you will need. By visualizing your idea lawn a clear set of steps to achieve such a lawn will start to arise.

No matter what type of lawn you are interested in having, be sure to invest in water for your lawn. This could mean investing in sprinkler systems, or hoses, or even just a hand held water pourer. The idea with investing in water for the lawn is that your lawn will only be as healthy as the amount of water you put into it. Lawns need water to grow, and maintain color. Without water your lawn will face struggles in staying vibrant.

As with any enduring task we humans put ourselves up to, we must make it fun. Create incentive for you to get in the lawn and work on it. Make lawn care fun, by getting a workout from it, or getting a suntan, or just spending time with family while tending to the lawn. The more fun the lawn care is, the more likely you will be to continue it over the years.

Get help when your lawn is growing to proportions you can't attend to. Most lawns, when put on the right track will be able to grow consistently, and thus have greater needs for ones time. This is when help can take your average lawn and make it exceptional. Lawn care doesn't have to cost a lot of money. For a more reasonable rate negotiate a long term contract with your gardener, for bi weekly visits. The longer commitment should lower the rate you have to pay per visit.

Clark Covington provides landscaping tips and information on lawns and lawn care for GreenCareLawn.com.

Send A Dozen Roses

Writen by Richard Romando

To send a dozen roses is to express great love and a sense of commitement to that special someone. When sending a dozen roses, all twelve roses can be of the same color, a mix of two contrast colors or multicolored. Together in a bunch, twelve roses form a beautiful bouquet. It has become a standard to send a dozen roses for that distinctive feeling.

Sending a particular number of roses also has some meaning attached to it. A single rose is a symbol of simplicity, while sending two roses joined together indicates engagement. And sending a dozen roses seems to be the ultimate declaration of love. It becomes more significant when they are deep red. A dozen red roses are associated with romance! No wonder so many florists offer exceptional bouquets made of exactly a dozen roses, to send to your sweetheart. And if you wish to stress your point even more, you could send a few of these dozen roses' bouquets.

Sending a dozen roses often comes with special offers as well. Roses by the dozen are cheaper than single roses. They are traditionally bound together with a string and covered with a cellophane sheet. It is quite easy to locate a bouquet of roses at your nearby florist or on the Internet. Whether you are buying one or a dozen, do check that they are fresh, fragrant and appealing so that they can convey your feelings correctly. And adding a loving note to them will enhance the beauty of the roses.

Send Roses provides detailed information on Send Roses, Send Roses Online, Send Roses Cheap, Send A Dozen Roses and more. Send Roses is affiliated with Dutch Tulips.

Garden Feng Shui Adding The Elements Of Wood And Water

Writen by Stephanie Gottschalk

Feng Shui, the ancient Chinese practice of placement and arrangement to create a harmonious feel, can help make your garden a much more serene place to relax. Incorporating Feng Shui into your garden is very easy with Bamboo Feng Shui Fountains.

Water is an incredibly important element in any garden – it represents wealth and heavenly blessings, and using it ensures that you always have the positive 'chi', or energy, associated with it. Fountains are the most convenient and effective way to use the element of water in your garden, because they make certain that it is always clear and flowing – never stagnant.

Bamboo fountains not only bring the peace and harmony of Feng Shui into your outdoor space, they're also beautiful and very easy to set up. They can simply be placed on the side of any bowl with the pump placed in the water, and they're ready to use! Bamboo water spouts can be used with any decorative bowls wide enough to accommodate the base of the fountain. You can also use them in your garden pond. They're small enough to be moved inside when winter arrives, so you can continue enjoying the benefits of flowing water through the cold season.

The sophisticated, minimalist elegance of these fountains complement nearly any style of garden décor. Bamboo water spout fountains typically come in two styles: the traditional kind that sits on the edge of a container, or 'deer chasers', which combine aesthetics, sound, and motion. With deer chasers, the fountain has a bamboo 'arm' that rocks forward when it fills with water, then rocks backward to create a gentle 'clacking' sound. Deer Chasers require a flat space next to your container or pond to be set up. The base is covered with rocks, and the spout should be positioned so that it will re-circulate the water back into the container.

Bamboo fountains will attract birds and other wildlife to your outdoor space, and are also safe to use in ponds containing fish and other marine life. They're simple, elegant, and make inexpensive and very unique gifts.

Stephanie Gottschalk writes the blogs 'Picnic Fun - Tips and Recipes' and 'The Joy of Water Fountains' for Specialty Living Inc., an Asheville, North Carolina-based company that aims to share their love of people, nature and life through high quality water fountains, picnic baskets and outdoor living products.

Tulip Divisions Garden Tulips And Their Identities

Writen by Rob Young

Tulips are classified into 15 tulip groups or tulip divisions. There are an enormous number of large-flowered hybrids and these are classified into 11 of these divisions, according to flowering time, plant shape, flower size and form. Species and species hybrids make up the four remaining groups.

Let's look at each group!

Division 1 - Single early tulips
This tulip division flowers have rounded petals forming small deep cup-shaped single flowers, which sometimes open flat in full sun.
They flower in mid spring.
They grow to 25-60cm (10-24in) high
Their stems are thick so they can handle the wind and rain.
They are excellent used as bedding plants.
Some varieties can be forced indoors.

Popular Single Early tulips are 'Apricot Beauty' (apricot-pink), 'Bestseller' (copper-orange), 'Generaal de Wet' (golden-orange), and 'Ruby Red' (scarlet).

Division 2 - Double early tulips
These have large double flowers resembling peonies.
They flower in mid spring and are long-lasting.
They grow to 25-30cm (10-12in) high.
They are good for mass bedding layouts or containers.
They prefer a sheltered site.

Popular Double Early tulips are 'Electra' (cherry-red), 'Mr Van de Hoef' (golden-yellow), 'Oranje Nassau' (orange-red), 'Peach Blossom' (rose pink) and 'Schoonoord' (white).

Division 3 - Triumph tulips
These are sometimes referred to as Mid Season tulips in bulb catalogs.
They have large, single, angular flowers.
They flower in mid spring and are long-lasting.
They grow to 40-60cm (16-24in) high.
They can handle the wind and rain so can be used as bedding plants in exposed sites.

Popular varieties include 'Attila' (violet-purple), 'Bellona' (golden-yellow), 'Garden Party' (white and carmine-pink), 'Kees Nellis' (pink and yellow), 'White Dream' (white) and 'Orange Bouquet' (red-orange) which has several flowers on each stem.

Division 4- Darwin hybrids
These have large, round brilliantly colored flowers.
They flower in late spring.
They grow to 55-70cm (22-28in) high on strong stems.
Their colorful flowers make them ideal for the main focal point of a display.

Popular hybrids include 'Apeldoorn' (rich red), 'Big Chief' (pink with white), 'Elizabeth Arden' (salmon pink), 'Olympic Flame' (yellow and red) and 'Red Matador' (scarlet).

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Division 5- Single late tulips
These are sometimes referred to as May flowering tulips.
They have squared-off, oval or egg shaped flowers.
They flower in late spring.
They grow to 65-80cm (26-32in) high.
These are usually used in bedding or border layouts.

Popular varieties include 'Avignon' (red), 'Golden Harvest' (lemon yellow), 'Queen of Bartigons' (salmon-pink), 'Queen of Night' (maroon black) and 'Sorbet' (white and red).

Division 6- Lily-flowered tulips
These have long single flowers with pointed petals, often curving out at the tips.
They flower in late spring.
They grow to 50-65cm (20-26in) high.

They prefer a sunny site. Popular varieties include 'Aladdin' (crimson and yellow), 'China Pink' (soft pink), 'Maytime' ((mauve lilac with white edges), 'Red Shine' (deep red), 'West Point' (yellow) and 'White Triumphator' (white).

Division 7- Fringed tulips These have flowers similar to those of the Single late group but with fringed petals.
They flower in late spring.
They grow to 55-80cm (22-32in) high.

Popular varieties include 'Arma' (cardinal-red), 'Burgundy Lace' (wine-red) and 'Fringed Beauty' (red and yellow).

Division 8 - Viridiflora
They are also known as Green tulips.
These are similar to the Single late tulips but the petals are partly green.
The flowers appear in late spring.
They grow to 23-60cm (9-24in) high.

Popular varieties include 'Artist' (apricot-pink and green), 'Golden Artist' (orange-yellow and green), 'Groenland' (green-edged rose) and 'Spring Green' (lemon-yellow and green).

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Division 9 - Rembrandt tulips
These have large single flowers with petals streaked or blotched with a second color which is caused by a harmless virus.
The flowers appear in late spring.
They grow to 45-75cm (18-30in) high.

Among the varieties available are 'lnsulinde' (violet and yellow), 'Lotty van Beuningen' (lilac, purple and white) and 'Jack Laan' (purple, yellow and white).

Division 10 - Parrot tulips
These have large, often bi-colored, flowers with frilled and/or twisted petals.
They flower in mid and late spring.
They grow to 50-65cm (20-26in) high.
Their stems are often too weak to support the large unsheltered flowers and so staking is sometimes necessary.

They prefer a sheltered position Popular varieties include 'Black Parrot' (purple-black), 'Fantasy' (pink), 'Flaming Parrot' (yellow flamed red) and 'White Parrot' (white).

Division 11 - Double late tulips
These are sometimes called Peony-flowered tulips,
They have large showy flowers, resembling peonies.
They flower in late spring.
The plants grow to 40-60cm) (16-24in) high.
They prefer a sheltered position.

Popular hybrids include 'Angelique' (pale pink), 'Gold Medal' (golden-yellow) and 'Mount Tacoma' (white).

Division 12 - Kaufmanniana hybrids
These are also known as Waterlily tulips.
They have long, often bi colored, flowers.
They flower in early spring.
They grow to 10-25cm (4-10in) high,
These tulips are ideal for rock gardens, containers, or along the edges of orders.

Popular hybrids include 'Heart's Delight' (carmine-red, white and yellow), 'Johann Strauss' (red and white) and 'The First' (white tinted carmine-red).

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Division 13- Fosteriana hybrids
These have large, long flowers.
They flower in mid spring.
They grow to 20-40cm (8-16in) high.
Their brilliant eye-catching colors make them good for focal planting.

Popular hybrids include 'Cantata' (deep scarlet), 'Orange Emperor' (pure orange), 'Rockery Beauty' (orange-red) and 'Purissima' (white-yellow).

Division 14- Greigii hybrids
These have lovely colorful flowers with maroon or purple-brown veined or spotted foliage.
They flower in early to mid spring.
They grow to 23-50cm (9-20in) high.
As most are short, they look best in rockeries and containers.

Popular hybrids include 'Cape Cod' (bronze-yellow and apricot), 'Dreamboat' (amber yellow), 'Plaisir' (creamy white with red stripes), 'Red Riding Hood' (carmine red) and 'Toronto' (salmon-orange).

Division 15- Species tulips
The flowers of this final tulip division tend to be smaller and more delicate in form than the garden tulips. They are ranging from 7.5-45cm (3-18in) in height. Those listed below are the most readily available species, though others are sometimes sold by specialist bulb growers.

Tulipa clusiana (known as the lady tulip)
The clusiana 'cynthia' has red pointed petals flushed yellow with grey-green leaves that are upright and very narrow.
They flower in mid spring.
The plants grow to 23-30cm (9-12in) high.

Tulipa praestans
The praestans 'Bloemenlust' has long red flowers with blunt petals.
Each stem has between two and five flowers accompanied by broad grey-green leaves.
They flower in early and mid spring.
The plants grow to 30-45cm (12-18in) high.

Tulipa tarda
The tarda has white narrow petaled flowers with a yellow eye, with up to five flowers on each stem. The narrow mid-green leaves form a rosette at flowering time.
They flower in early spring.
They grow to 10cm (4in) high.

You can find more detailed information about tulip divisions at

http://www.elegant-tulip-bulbs.com/tulip-divisions.html

Rob Young http://www.elegant-tulip-bulbs.com

Keep It Tidy Your Home Outdoors Will Look Its Very Best When You Use Good Storage Methods

Writen by Anne Clarke

If you have a garage, you need to be organized, tools and all. A pool of course, requires a lot of chemical items, as well as the common recreational accessories such as rafts, noodles and lounge chairs to be neatly tucked away. Or, if you have too many tools for your yard or garden and too few places to store them in the garage, you will need outdoor home storage solutions like these:

·Garage

Organizing a garage is simple. You will need more than just a tool bench, but there is usually plenty of space in a normal-sized garage for storage of hand tools, power tools and more if you use some of the suggestions below.

There is usually plenty of space on the walls of your garage from which you can hang certain hand tools etc. So tap a nail in, or install some strong pegs and or hooks, and hang small tools, garden gloves, and even items like shovels, brooms and saws.

Consider as well items such as extra shelving for your tools etc. There is a lot of space on the walls around your garage, and installing shelves is a great way to organize without taking up too much of your car space.

You can also use storage bins to store things in your garage. Bins are a great way to have quick access to items you need and organize them in such a way that they will be simple to find.

·Poolside

The following poolside home storage solutions listed below are practical and very effective.

Often people will store rafts, water wings and other floating water toys in a nice shed along with lounge chairs, skimmers and removable pool-covers.

A storage bin that locks is a good idea, so that small children will not get into dangerous chemicals like chlorine. Another idea for storing chemicals for checking chlorine levels etc is perhaps to keep these items on a high shelf in the shed or garage. Most importantly when you decide where to store your pool chemicals you want to be absolutely certain that they remain out of the reach of children.

·Garden

The most beautiful kind of storage merchandise for your gardening materials is the garden bench. A garden bench is often pleasing to the eye, and serves a dual function as a lovely, relaxing place to sit as well as a place to store various gardening items.

To repeat myself, the storage bin is always a good idea, with compartments for gardening gloves, shears, and other small gardening items—bins work nicely.

However, there are many tools for gardening that cannot be placed in tiny compartments such as storage bins ad will require more space. If you cannot fit these into your garage or anywhere else, a tool shed is one idea for storing many gardening items.

Many of these items for your garage, pool, or garden can be found at great prices, and when necessary, are quite easy to assemble. Good luck finding the home storage supplies you need to keep your home looking tidy and well kept.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on the home and outdoor storage methods please visit Houseware and Accessories.

Hurricane Landscaping Considerations

Writen by Lance Winslow

When landscaping your yard in a region known to have hurricane strikes, which hit the shore-line you need to consider various ways to protect your home. This means you need to think about your landscaping.

For instance a nice white picket fence may be something you have always dreamed of, but if it is not built properly that white picket fence could become 100 white picket missiles flying at your home at over 120 mph. Can you now see why landscaping is a huge consideration during the 2006 Atlantic tropical hurricane season and why you must take into consideration your landscaping needs, desires and the potential eventuality of the major hurricane strike in your region?

This is not to scare anyone, but rather to make you think and consider ways to better protect your home and your largest investment, as well as your family from potential injury or harm ahead of time. Proper planning in landscaping for hurricanes in advance of these wicked and devastating storms makes sense and your neighbors will also thank you because as that hurricane passes some of those white picket missiles will be blowing the other direction across the street into their homes.

We have all seem pictures of cars sitting on top of someone else's roof or in a tree. We have also seeing trees fallen on homes from next door. You need to remove any branches from any trees which look like they will be falling soon and you need to think more about your landscaping and what might fly away and how best to remove flood waters away from your home. Consider all this the 2006

Lance Winslow

How To Choose A Gazebo

Writen by Alison Cole

It's been said, "Be in the world, but not of it." Gazebos can make that possible for all those people who have looked out a window at the rain and the wind and wanted to be there without suffering nature's ravages. Many people want to sit outside and be enveloped by nature's power but still return home dry, unbitten, unburned, and completely safe from harm.

Even if you're not interested in watching storms sweep in, gazebos can still make the outdoors more comfortable, in fact adding another room to your home. A gazebo is any roofed structure offering a 360 degree view of the surroundings. Gazebos take on many different shapes, sizes, and styles but the most common is the 8'-diameter open-sided octagonal cedar wood gazebo with pagoda-style shingled double roof and cupola.

Choosing is not as daunting as it may sound. Spend some time beforehand determining who will be using your gazebo. Is it primarily for just you, maybe a friend or two, and your family – or will you be throwing big parties and accommodating visiting world leaders for the weekend? Most gazebos range from 6 to 22 feet in diameter, and can have sides that are either fully open to the elements or completely enclosed for use as a guesthouse.

Whether the preferred style is simple and rugged or embellished with all the pretty extras, like trellis walls, Victorian gingerbread moldings, and other architectural flourishes, there is a gazebo style for everyone. Choosing to place a gazebo on your property brings up many questions about placement, regulations and permits and other construction details. Call your municipal authority and to find out what you need to know and remember, rules vary from place to place.

Property size and layout determines where to situate the gazebo. A garden border or pond can be highlighted to great effect with a well-placed gazebo. As you plan, make sure you will have enough room for the gazebo and that the style and materials chosen will complement the landscape and physical environment.

Choosing low-maintenance models, furniture options, and spa elements as well as privacy screens can make each gazebo unique. No matter what the specifications, a gazebo can be tailored to your needs, creating another room for your home.

Gazebos Info provides detailed information about spa, garden, patio, canopy, screened, metal, and vinyl gazebos, as well as gazebo plans and kits. Gazebos Info is the sister site of Awnings Web.

8 Steps For Lawn Mower Safety

Writen by Matt Morrison

Even though many lawn mowers come with safety features, it is a powerful cutting machine that is dangerous and should be treated as such. Improper use could result in personal injury or even death. The U.S. Government estimates that 60,000 people are treated in hospitals for lawn mower related injuries. Most accidents occur when people do not know how to operate their machine properly or they don't use common sense and get careless.

Step 1: Get to know your lawn mower. Check the owner's manuals frequently to familiarize yourself with it.

Step 2: Dress properly. Do not wear open toe shoes or shorts. Don't wear loose clothing or hair that could possibly drawn into rotating parts. Use safety glasses and dust masks when the need is required.

Step 3: Prepare your lawn beforehand. Pick up rocks, sticks, wires, toys, tools or any objects that could be thrown by the blade.

Step 4: Prepare your unit. Make sure all parts are tightened and nothing is missing. Check for and correct any leaks. Check your oil levels and the lawn mower blade for proper retention.

Step 5: Handle gasoline with care. If you spill fuel, wipe it up promptly and allow time for vaporization before you start the mower. Store gasoline in a proper container away from children and your home.

Step 6: Warn other people before mowing your lawn. Keep children inside and pets penned up while operating your mower. Always be prepared to stop in case someone or something darts in the area you are mowing.

Step 7: Start your mower according to operators manual. Keep your hands and feet safely away from the mower deck while starting. Always cease starts if your engine becomes flooded to prevent ignition spark.

Step 8: Be mindful. Always be aware of your surroundings and any potential dangers that might occur. Don't let the subconscious just take over while thinking about things other than the job at hand.

If you follow these steps, you can help avoid becoming another statistic.

If you would like to learn more about lawn care, you can visit Blades Lawn Care.

A Primer On Hypertufa

Writen by Delmar Germyn

You have probably seen those big planters and troughs in pictures of old English gardens. They are most likely made of Tufa rock. You can learn all you need to know about this and get an interesting geology lesson at the same time if you click this - http://www.tufa.bc.ca/index.htm

A source I always reccomend for instructions and outstanding ideas is http://www.rlstore.com/ Hyprtufa is fake. You can read the article about mixes to find out how to make it.

It is fun to play with. You can shape it, file it, form it, add to it the next day as long as you do not let it dry out. (just cover with a piece of plastic) It can withstand the coldest winters and loves the rain. The longer you have it the more character it gains.

If you want to make something big, this is the stuff to use.

It is not waterproof so no ponds. You can try to seal it but would be better off to use concrete. It would be cheaper and far less aggravation.

You can use it for fountains that do not have to hold water. What I mean is that the water will not be sitting in, just passing through.

It is relatively light compared to concrete so makes great trough style planters. If you have ever wanted to make a "Giant Head" statue it is great for this because you can take your time molding and add to it as you see your statue taking shape. If you do not like what you see, it is easy to knock off a bit and change it. When you are done it will, unless it is 3 or 4 feet high, be possible to move it without a forklift or crane.

Like the natural Tufa, it supports the growth of Moss and Lichen. This gives it an aged look in one growing season.

Once you get started with this you will be hooked. It is great for use in molds, you mix as usual and press it into the mold. In a couple of days, when it is cured, you can take it out and you will have a light, textured looking casting. These are nice when lightly stained, or given the moss growth formula.

Mix up a batch and try it!

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND....

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

The site will be constantly added to as time passes, so please click for updates.

Popular Adirondack Chairs Everything You Need To Know

Writen by Jennifer Akre

Adirondack chairs were invented during the early 1900's by a vacationer who was looking for ways to furnish his summer home. By utilizing materials found around his Westport, NY, vacation home, Thomas Lee crafted a unique chair that caught the attention of a local carpenter and would eventually gain widespread popularity.

The chair was made out of eleven slats of wood, had wide armrests, and was unique in that both the seat and back angled so that it would sit better on the steep mountain terrain of the Adirondacks.

While looking for a way to increase revenue, a local carpenter and friend to Lee, Harry Brunnel, started crafting the chairs. In 1905, he applied for a patent and the chair that later came to be known as the Adirondack chair was dubbed the "Westport Chair." For the next twenty years, Brunnel lovingly crafted the Adirondack furniture and watched his business grow and flourish.

Today, the furniture is individually handcrafted by skilled craftsmen who have taken the basic design of the Adirondack chair and, while keeping the integrity of the original design, added to it variations that make the chair versatile enough to be used in any outdoor setting. Available in several different styles including rockers, gliders, love seats and styles geared toward children, Adirondack chairs are not only durable and comfortable they can be used outdoors in all seasons.

Although Adirondack chairs are normally made out of treated wood such as teak, cypress, mahogany, alder, eucalyptus and southern yellow pine, they are also available in plastic. They can be finished using a wide pallet of stains, painted over 29 colors, or customized with hand painted details to compliment your décor. You can also choose from a large array of cushions to add unique design elements to your space. As you can see, the possibilities are endless.

Perhaps what makes Adirondack chairs so popular among consumers today is their comfort. Identified by a high, angled back and sloping seat, the chairs are made with comfort in mind. After sitting in one of these Adirondack chairs, it is not hard to imagine a lazy afternoon spent in the garden while napping or reading your favorite novel.

Adirondack chairs are also very durable. Made out of solid, treated wood that is resistant to both rot and insect infestation, Adirondack chairs are virtually indestructible in any climate. They are also affordable. Depending on what you want, the price for Adirondack chairs starts out at approximately $200 for each piece. Of course, different styles and the addition of customized options can raise that price considerably.

In order to keep the cost of your selection in perspective, compare the cost of Adirondack chairs to other outdoor furnishings. Although Adirondack chairs may be priced a little higher than other types of furnishings, you will have to replace other furnishings after a few years. On the other hand, Adirondack chairs will remain beautiful for years to come.

If you are still not convinced that Adirondack chairs are for you, take a few minutes to browse through the huge selection that can be found online. You may be surprised by what you find.

Jennifer Akre is a successful business owner of numerous outdoor furniture websites such as http://www.eAdirondackStyle.com. Her sites provide information and product about Adirondack Chairs & Adirondack Furniture and other various decor such as teak furniture and garden benches.

Make A Good First Impression Landscape Your Driveway

Writen by Ron King

Is your driveway landscaped? It should be.

This includes the driveway itself, as well as the design elements on both sides. All sorts of materials from softscape options to hardscape are available to make your driveway attractive.

Make A Good Entrance

As the entrance to your home, the driveway should not be neglected. It can either be a scar on the other landscaping around the home or it can add depth to the entire look of your home. You don't need to spend a lot of money on it either. You can be creative and choose attractive features, and have a very low cost landscape that is welcoming.

Make sure that you take everything into account before choosing your elements. For example, if you are looking for minimal work, do not plant a flower bush at the end of your driveway where the plants can be ruined by those in your neighborhood. Instead, use an attractive fence or a rock garden.

Another important aspect is the footpath to the home. Do not use any design elements that will be in the way of the normal foot traffic. You don't want to visitors going out of their way, or worse, trampling your plants to reach your door.

Hardscape Choice

You have many options -- common ones include walls and fences, which can add distinction and accent your driveway. A small fence can add character and color to the landscape. Use hanging baskets or lanterns on the fence for more charm.

A large rock can be especially interesting, particularly when it has multiple colors. You can plant grasses and small flowers in the cracks of stones to create even more decorative looks.

Softscape Choices

On a limited budget, just landscaping along the sides of the driveway is an excellent option. It will cost little, yet add lots of beauty to your landscape design.

As for softscape options appropriate to driveway areas, many things will work, such as a flower bed or groundcover along the driveway. This will create a border that is interesting and separates the lawn from the actual driveway.

Ornamental trees and shrubs can do the same thing along the edge of the driveway. Shrubs can be cut to become topiary, which will add even more design elements to the look of the driveway landscape.

Another thing to consider is the curved driveway. If your driveway has a curve in it, a great idea is to add a focal point -- something to make a statement. For example, you can have a beautiful tree, a flower bed, or a rock garden there. Whatever it is it should be beautiful because the curve will focus attention at that point of your driveway. You can use water gardens, a wishing well, as well as many other types of elements to enhance this area and have it look amazing.

Doing these landscaping operations can completely transform the entrance to your home. In a simple, affordable way, you can add character and depth to your landscape design around your driveway.

Visit Home Landscaping to learn more. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer, visit his website at Articles for authors.

Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.

Crape Myrtle Dynamite Pp 10296

Writen by Alan Summers

A Hardy Crape Myrtle Tree with True Red Blooms
Crape Myrtles are a popular choice for gardeners because of their low maintenance, beautiful colors and extremely long bloom season, lasting nearly three and a half months. Crape Myrtles are most popular in the south, gaining the nickname the lilac of the south, but are enjoyed by gardeners across the country. Their scientific term, Lagerstroemia, was coined in 1759 in order to honor Magnus von Lagerstroem, an avid naturalist. The common name in America, Crape Myrtle, is derived from the crape-like appearance of the flower and the resemblance of the foliage to the real myrtle, Myrtus Communis. This week we are featuring a hardy Crape Myrtle tree with incredible huge ruby red blooms without even a hint of pink- 'Dynamite' - - the truest red of any Crape Myrtle tree.

Developed by Oaklahoma's Dr. Carl Whitcomb in 1998, 'Dynamite' produces abundant clusters of absolutely spectacular deep red flowers from crimson buds they will enliven your garden from mid summer until autumn. The blooms can reach 15 inches long and of course have the crape paper look that we love.

The foliage starts as a deep burgundy in the spring and changes into a dark green by the end of summer. The leaves are very large, semi-glossy very thick and mildew resistant. In the fall the foliage turns from orange to red. 'Dynamite' exfoliates it's old gray bark to reveal the new light brown smooth bark underneath. Plant as a specimen tree; prune into a large multi-stemmed shrub, or plant several in a row to create a unique privacy hedge.

Planting and Care
'Dynamite' has a very expansive and upright growth habit and matures to a height of 20 feet. It prefers to be placed in full sun with well-drained soil and good air circulation. Dynamite requires little maintenance and does best when it is not pruned. It is also drought, disease and insect resistant once it is established.

Plant 15 feet apart in well-drained soil.

Prefers full sun in an area with good air circulation and good soil drainage.

Water regularly until established.

Hardy in Zones 6-9 (protect the first winter in Zone 6).

Fertilize with Plant-Tone and Kelp Meal in early spring.

When necessary, prune in spring just as the new leaves emerge

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners. Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter. Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet. Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.

Fascinating Things To Know About The Juniper Bonsai

Writen by Tim Gorman

There are over 50 species of the evergreen juniper. Typically found in dry forests and mountainous regions, the juniper in the wild can live for 200 years, although junipers, when turned into bonsais, only live for two or three years. Junipers are a coniferous shrub with needle-like and scaly leaves. The foliage ranges from a light green and silver to a beautiful blue-green.

There are a few varieties of juniper that make excellent choices for bonsai. One of these is the Juniperus X, a natural hybrid species. It is a popular bonsai in Japan.

The juniper does not thrive in extremes; it grows best in sunshine, but does not do well in very hot midday sunlight. Extreme temperatures, both cold and hot, will kill the juniper bonsai. If the juniper bonsai is kept indoors, dry conditions and poor lighting will kill it, and over watering will cause its root to rot. Misting is an excellent strategy to keep the juniper bonsai moist and keep its leaves dust-free.

A juniper bonsai should be re-potted during the spring once every two years until it is about 10. The soil should be free draining and include grit or stone to avoid harmful alkaline deposits. A juniper bonsai should be given high nitrogen fertilizer every two weeks from spring to mid-summer, but then given low nitrogen fertilizer until winter. Every now and again, for excellent results, an acidic fertilizer like Miracid should be given to a juniper bonsai.

Shaping the juniper bonsai can be done throughout the growing season by careful pinching it with the fingers. Scissors should not be used on the juniper bonsai because the ends may turn brown. It is important to leave a sufficient amount of foliage to avoid branch withering. Pinching should be occasional, gradual and gentle. All shaping should be avoided when the first leaves of the juniper bonsai are sprouting.

As a point of interest, junipers keep an attractive, natural shape even after they have been dead for several weeks. This may make it difficult to know if the juniper bonsai is still alive!

For more interesting information on bonsai gardening to include bonsai pruning, and many different bonsai styles to include the Shakan, Forest, Korabuki, Chokkan, Moyogi and Kengai and Han-Kengai Bonsai Styles please visit Beautiful-Bonsai-Trees.info.

Smart Gardeners Plan First

Writen by Basil Cyndinar

In the end of the winter, people dust off their trowels and take out the gloves, getting ready for another gardening season. This year it will be different. You'll have beautiful flowers, a fantastic display of colors and all your neighbors will pause in your front lawn to admire your garden. Does it have to be a wish? In fact, you could start your garden at any time and have a beautiful garden to enjoy all year long.

The only prerequisite is planning and preparation work and you'll have the garden you are dreaming about. One important step that some people tend to forget is that you have to plan the right garden for you.

Measure out the space you have set up as the garden area and check out the following parameters.

a) What is the soil like, what additional fertilizer you need, will it be organic? Which type? Worm castings, seaweed, pet safe fertilizer?

b) Does your plot get enough light? How is the irrigation system? Do you have to repair any leaks? Check the batteries of the system. It doesn't matter whether your area has the best of all of this. Some plants need tough soil, not a lot of sunlight and little water. You just need to be aware and plan of this, as you will want to pick plants that are suitable to your environment and conditions. One tip I highly recommend is to add worms in your garden. Check out with your local supplier if he has deliver-ready cocoons. Whatever you will grow with earthworm castings will be as it use to be and if you are planning to grow some vegetables the aroma will be magic.

Get some advice at your local greenhouse about setting up a garden you like. They can offer directions as to how to structure your garden and to put out your plants so you get to enjoy. Among your first priorities is to take care of them easily. Some plants are more easy to grow than others.

It only takes a little bit of preparation work and a little of help from the experts and you'll have the garden you always dreamed of.

If you want to read more about Gardening and organic fertilizers, click over to Basil Cyndinar's site at http://fertilizer.info-24hour.com There you may find also usefull information about Pet-safe fertilizer and much much more !!

Myths About Lawns

Writen by Kenneth C. Hoffman

Here's the situation: your lawn looks terrible, you can't afford a professional lawn service and you're thinking of getting a goat. In some places the weeds are taking over, the crab grass won't go away and there are mysterious bare spots you think is due to a dog but you're not sure.

Fist let me dispel the myth that you can get rid of your weeds permanently with weed killer. The weed seeds in your lawn will keep coming up as long as there are seeds and dirt. What you have to do is kill the seeds before they come up. The way you do that is to put down seed killer after the last frost of the winter. You may need two applications for a serious problem. Most weeds are annuals therefore they die every year from the frost. So you get a fresh chance every year to start with a practically weed free lawn. Scotts makes a good seed killer product.

Bare spots not due to dog business can be raked sharply and seeded in the spring. Urine in the earth will not allow seeds to germinate and must be replaced with fresh dirt. Fresh seed of the root runner type is good for filling in bare spots. A garden center should have Windsor or other seed varieties that send out root runners. Another method is to dig up a plug of grass from a hidden area and fix the problem instantly. Try to use the same kind of grass so it doesn't show different colors.

A dry spell in August generally browns off the lawn. By cutting the grass higher than usual, it will stay greener, longer. Fertilize twice a year, once in late spring and once at the beginning of Fall. The organic type fertilizer is best because it lasts much longer, doesn't burn and requires fewer applications. Acid soils need an application of ground lime for good growth. Many evergreens and perennials need an acid soil, so don't get any lime near these plants. Grass likes sun so feel free to cut down some overhanging branches or even whole trees if necessary. Water the lawn after dusk for less evaporation and water long enough for the roots to be penetrated. One heavy watering a week is worth three days of light watering. A drying out period is good for the grass since the roots will seek out the water at a lower depth.

A sharp blade gives a clean cut without the usual ragged tips that brown easily, making your lawn look less green. Clean the mower bag frequently with a power hose in order to keep a good volume of air going through the bag. During heavy growth times like May and September, it is best to collect all the clippings for the compost pile. Alternate the direction and mowing pattern for an even lawn without wheel ruts. Just as you can tell the character of a person by his shoes, a beautiful lawn sets the tone for your whole home.

Retired portrait photographer now writer.

The Flower Guide For The Weekend Gardener

Writen by Robert Mosse

Everyone needs some form of flower guide to get the most out of their gardens, especially those who may not have time to garden every day. Flower gardening is all about stimulating the senses with a display of colors. So what should we plant, and when?

The buzz in gardening seems to be about whether to plant annual or perennial flowers. Some of these flowers give us textures, shapes and heights, while others just go blooming crazy all season long. Here's a basic flower guide for these two kinds of flowers that will help you design a spectacular wash of color for your garden.

Annual Flower Guide:

Annuals do all of their growing in one season. The seeds germinate in the spring, the plants bloom and grow all season, and then they die. You will have to plant them each season, but the result is instant color. Also, if you make an error in your design about color or height, the wrong effect will only last a year.

Annuals produce an endless array of colors and sizes, and most are easy to plant and grow. They can be used for cuttings, in mass plantings, for edging, in rock gardens, in mixed beds, in containers, and in hanging baskets.

Indeed, most annuals are fabulous plants for the weekend gardener because they are so versatile and not too finicky. For all their glorious color, annuals are very inexpensive. You can start them indoors as seedlings, or buy bedding plants from your nursery or garden center. The majority of annuals bloom for most of the growing season.

Here's a list of some great annual flowers that are easy to grow, show off spectacular colors, and are worth every dig of a trowel to plant:

Begonia - Grows 6 to 12 inches tall. Flowers are white, pink, red, rose and scarlet.

Tricolor Chrysanthemum – Grows 2 to 3 feet. Flowers are white, yellow, gold, red, or maroon, with contrasting color bands on the base of the petals. (This chrysanthemum is different from the perennial chrysanthemum called the "garden mum".)

Dahlia – Grows 1 to 6 feet. Flowers are every color except blue and green.

Geranium – Grows up to 2 feet. Flowers are white, pink, scarlet, orangish-red, red, and salmon.

Impatiens – Grows to 1½ feet. Flowers are white, pink, rose, scarlet, violet, salmon, and orange.

Marigold - Grows 6 inches to 4 feet. Flowers are yellow, gold, orange white, near red, and mahogany.

Zinnia - Grows 6 to 36 inches. Flowers are all colors except blue.

Perennial Flower Guide:

Basically speaking, perennial flowers live more than one growing season, returning year after year. When perennials finish blooming, their foliage provides wonderful background texture, form, and color for your garden.

Perennial flowers may only bloom for a short spell and at certain times of the growing season. This makes it more difficult to plant a garden limited only to perennials and still achieve the desired effect of constant color. For this reason, mixing perennials with annual flowers is the key to a fabulous garden of continual color.

Let's look at some favorite perennial flowers that offer magnificent color and depth to any garden, and will grow just about anywhere:

Butterfly Weed – Grows 1½ to 3 feet. Flowers are bright orange (great for attracting butterflies!) with pretty pods covering the plant once the flowering ends. Blooms all summer.

Chrysanthemum or "Garden Mum" - Grows 1 to 4 feet. Flowers are all colors but blue. Blooms in the fall.

Daylily – Grows 1½ to 3½ feet. Flowers are all colors except blue and white. Blooms from late spring to fall.

Felicia – Grows 1 to 2 feet; Flowers are blue-petalled with yellow centers. Blooms from early summer to fall.

Hosta – Grows up to 3 feet. Flowers are white, lavender or pale violet, often with colorful foliage. Blooms from summer to early fall.

Peony – Grows 2 to 4 feet; Flowers are white, pink, maroon or red. Blooms from late spring to early summer.

Shasta Daisy - Grows 1 to 4 feet. Flowers have white petals usually with a yellow center. Blooms all summer.

With a little experience and planning, you can create a flower garden that blooms from one end to the other, from spring through fall. Bring together a few of these annual and perennial flowers for a wonderful mixed garden.

Learn as you go, make your own improvements… but most of all enjoy whatever time you do have in your garden. Soon you'll be writing your own flower guide inspired by your garden creations!

Copyright 2006 Robert Mosse

Robert Mosse is a garden and lawn care specialist and author of the "Easy" Lawn and Gardening Book Series. Find out more about flower gardens ... and get Robert's free Guide for 101 Gardening Tips.

Gardening The Mulberry

Writen by Michael Russell

The mulberry tree belongs to the Morus genus that consists of about 12 species found over Mediterranean and north temperate regions with two being native to North America. The commonly cultivated black mulberry comes from an ancient line which has now been introduced into many countries of the world. It is believed to have been in cultivation for over 5000 years. It has variable leaf forms.

It produces a delicious fruit which is plentiful in summer and that ripens over a period long enough to enjoy the harvest for some weeks as the green berries mature to red or black. It is a notoriously difficult fruit to harvest, as are all the soft berry fruits, so there is ample scope for an enterprising soul to consider a way of developing an easier and efficient harvest and offering a new commercial crop.

In home gardens mulberry picking is enjoyed by children who are capable of exploring to seek to enjoy the sweet rewards as well as picking an amount for common consumption. However, they should be tutored to use the green, inedible fruit to rub away the persistent stains from the ripe fruit.

The White Mulberry, Morus alba is known as Sang Ye in China where it originated. It was introduced into Europe about 1434 from the Levant where it was cultivated mainly for the purpose of providing food for silkworms. It was introduced and is now naturalised in the U.S. providing an important food for wildlife. In Australian gardens it is welcome as a tasty home fruit, sweet and marketable also. The leaves when fed to silkworms produce a light yellow silk.

The tender young leaves are edible in small quantities when fresh or can be cooked as spinach. The leaves are used medicinally for treatment of fever and externally for ringworm. The root skin provides a medicine for bronchitis. The fruits which vary from pink to deep red/black are delicious to eat and in China it is regularly recommended to relieve insomnia, flu, high blood pressure, vertigo and other complaints. Fruit contains vitamins a B1, B2 and C.

Texas Mulberry or Morus microphylla grows as a small tree in the canyons of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona where it was once cultivated by Indians of the area and it is still considered a food source.

White Mulberry is a native of France Morus multicaulis

Black Mulberry, English Mulberry Morus nigra originated in Iran and known in antiquity when it was apparently much appreciated for its large, sweet juicy fruit. This is the species preferred by consumers large succulent fruits are delicious and sweeter, more flavoursome than the white mulberry. The unripe fruit when crushed, removes the stains from the ripe and often messy fruit. The leaves produce a lovely golden silk thread when fed to silkworms.

Red Mulberry, Morus rubra is a native of Nth America found from Vermont to Sth Dakota and south to Florida. Finely toothed leaves are coated with soft down in autumn. Red fruits are of inferior quality.

The Black Mulberry Morus nigra is often known as the English Mulberry for the following reason. In England James I tried to introduce a new silk industry into England. He issued a Royal edict recommending the cultivation of silkworms and urging the Shires to buy and distribute 10,000 mulberry plants of Morus nigra to all who would sow them, only to be advised that it was the wrong species of mulberry and the enterprise was abandoned. That is the reason that there are many ancient Black Mulberry trees still existing in England and very few old White ones. Regrettably, it was later discovered that both species of mulberry were used in the orient for silk.

Shakespeare's mentions a mulberry - a Black Mulberry - and that it was not suitable for rearing silkworms, so reflecting the general disappointment of the times.

There is one surviving Mulberry tree in the private grounds of Buckingham Palace to this day. It still is bearing but in no way remarkable in size or spread.

Mulberry leaf is an old cottage remedy for ringworm. A very important purpose of the fruit is as a food supplement in the diet of heart patients, with some remarkable beneficial results.

For those who wish to introduce the Australian home hobby for children by keeping a few silkworms it can offer a fascinating and interesting experience for both infants and parents. Unfortunately there is little ultimate pleasure to be had from the silk produced, but it is certainly an exercise in nature studies!

It would be best to be sure of adequate supply of leaves by having planted your own trees in the yard, or at least enquire about a reliable and close alternative source. The leaves are best when fresh but keep for a little time in the fridge. It may be interesting for those unfamiliar with silkworm culture to know that if mulberry leaves for any reason are not available, a temporary diet of beetroot leaves will produce pink tinted silk and lettuce leaves will tend to give lemon coloured thread.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Gardening

Aucuba Japonica Gold Dust

Writen by Alan Summers

All gardens have problem spots - those areas where it seems that nothing will grow. Often, this tends to be in the shade - either under a large tree or the eves of a house. This week we are featuring an evergreen that will solve the problem of bare, shaded areas and will add eye catching color and interest to your garden - Aucuba japonica 'Gold Dust.' Unlike most garden plants that only tolerate shade, Aucubas prefer shade and will thrive in the shadiest of spots, even under trees where no grass grows.

Native to Japan, Aucubas are a small group of evergreen shrubs that belong to the same family as dogwoods, but look nothing like them. 'Gold Dust' is one of the most popular of the Aucubas, named for its speckled leaves that look as if someone had sprinkled gold dust on them. These handsome leaves are the reason why most folks add this shrub to their garden. 'Gold Dust' will flower in late March and produce red berries in October, but neither is very noticeable next to the striking foliage.

Planting and Care 'Gold Dust' will mature as a rounded shrub six feet to eight feet tall by six feet wide. It can be kept severely pruned to a compact three foot by three foot shrub. 'Gold Dust' grows almost one foot per year. It is ideal as a dense screen; also in difficult spots in foundation plantings. Very pollution tolerant; excellent for urban sites.

Very easy to grow.

Plant in a shady location. Will tolerate morning sun. In Zones 6 and 7, avoid exposure to cold winter winds.

Prefers well-drained soil. Once established 'Gold Dust' is extremely drought tolerant.

If needed, prune in the spring before new growth begins.

Hardy in Zones 7-10 (6 with protection). 'Gold Dust' is one of the hardiest of the Aucubas.

Fertilize in spring with Plant-Tone or Cottonseed Meal.

Click here to view Aucuba japonica 'Gold Dust' on the Carroll Gardens website.

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners. Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter. Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet. Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.

Gypsum Valuable Input For Agriculture

Writen by Sarvesh Shah

India ranks second on the basis of population in the world. Agricultural land utilised by the burgeoning population, the cultivable land resource is shrinking day by day. To meet the food, fibre, fuel, fodder, and other needs of the growing population, the productivity of agricultural land has to be increased rationally. This requires the use of all resources judiciously. In India, the mineral gypsum is mostly used in the manufacture of cement, fertiliser, plaster of Paris, ceramics and distemper. Smaller quantity is used as soil conditioner, for carving and statuary purposes. India has huge resources of natural gypsum of the order of 1120 million tonnes, of which recoverable reserves are estimated at 237 million tonnes. Over 95 per cent of the natural gypsum come from Rajasthan.

Gypsum is chemically calcium sulfate dihydrate (CaSO4.2H2O). When dissolved in water, it yields calcium ions (Ca2+) and sulfate-sulfur ions (SO42-). Both of these ions are essential major nutrients for growing plants. In addition to this, calcium also plays a vital role in establishing and maintaining good chemical balance in soil, water and plants. Gypsum is one of those rare materials that perform in all three categories of soil treatment: an amendment, conditioner, and fertilizer. The usage of gypsum in agriculture can be grouped into following heads:

Reclaims soil sodicity: The sodic soils have exchangeable sodium percentage (ESP) more than 15, it must be lowered for soil improvement as well as better crop growth. The calcium supplied by gypsum replaces the sodium held at the clay-exchange sites. The replaced sodium can be leached from the soil as sodium sulfate to an appropriate sink.

Decreases the toxic effect of NaCl salinity: Calcium from gypsum has a physiological role in inhibiting the uptake of sodium by plants. Thus plant are mitigate the sodium toxicity, which is more pronounced in the salt affected soils.

Decreases pH of sodic soils: The sodic soils are characterised by the high soil pH (>8.5). Gypsum lowers the high pH of sodic soils or near sodic soils to 7.5 to 7.8. These values are in the range of acceptability for growth of most crop plants. Increased calcium uptake by roots when gypsum is applied can decrease the pH of the rhizosphere.

Creates favorable soil EC: The more EC value of the soil is undesired for the crop growth. The high EC of soil are due to fertilizer application as well as by the weathering of soil minerals. Gypsum, being readily soluble, results in proper buffered solute concentration (EC) in soil to maintain soil in a flocculated state.

Makes excess Magnesium non-toxic: Calcium is essential to the biochemical mechanisms by which most plants nutrients are absorbed by roots. Without adequate calcium, uptake mechanisms would fail. In soils having unfavorable calcium magnesium ratios, such as serpentine soils, gypsum can create a more favorable ratio. Thus render Magnesium non-toxic.

Decreases heavy-metal toxicity: Calcium plays a role of regulator for balance of micro-nutrients, such as iron, zinc, manganese and copper, in plants. Calcium prevents excess uptake of many of them; and once they are in the plant, calcium keeps them from having adverse effects when their levels get high. Calcium in liberal quantities helps to maintain a healthy balance of nutrients and non-nutrients within plants. Gypsum also removes excess of Boron from sodic soil. It also regulates non-essential trace elements.

Improves soil structure: Gypsum provides calcium, which, flocculate clays in acid and alkaline soil. A flocculated clays form friable soil with improved soil structure and tilth. It also allows for deeper, healthier root development and water penetration.

Prevents crusting of soil: Gypsum application can decrease and prevent the crust formation on soil surfaces which result from rain drops or from sprinkler irrigation on unstable soil. It can prevent crusting that result when acid soils are limed and the gypsum is coapplied with the lime. Improves compacted soil: Gypsum can break up compacted soil and decrease penetrometer resistance. Combination with organic amendments also helps, especially in preventing return of the compaction. The soils applied with gypsum have low bulk density.

Makes slightly wet soils easier to till: Soils that have been treated with gypsum have a wider range of soil moisture levels where it is safe to till without danger of compaction or deflocculation. Even a liberal application of gypsum is a good procedure for starting a piece of land into no-till soil management or pasture. Gypsum also improves the ability of soil to drain and not become waterlogged due to a combination of high sodium, swelling clay, and excess water.

Stops water runoff and erosion: Gypsum improves water infiltration rates into soils and also the hydraulic conductivity of the soil. The use of gypsum can decrease wind and water erosion of soil.

Improves swelling clays: Gypsum can decrease the swelling and cracking associated with high levels of exchangeable sodium on the montmorillonite-type clays. As sodium is replaced by calcium on these clays, they swell less and therefore do not easily clog the pore spaces through which air, water and roots move.

Increases water retention in soil: Gypsum when applied to sodic soil reduced the levels of exchangeable sodium resulted in increase in water retention. The improved soil structure help in the more retention of water. Increases the stability of soil organic matter: Gypsum is a source of calcium responsible for the binding of soil organic matter to clay and gives stability to soil aggregates.

Improves low-solute irrigation water: Gypsum is used to increase the solute concentration of low-solute water used for irrigation. Irrigation water from rivers that no longer have sources of leachable salts either penetrates poorly into soil or causes soil particles to degrade which results in low-water penetration. The problem can be corrected with surface-applied gypsum or application to the irrigation water.

Improves water-use efficiency: Gypsum application increases water-use efficiency of crops. Improved water infiltration rates, improved hydraulic conductivity of soil, better water storage in the soil all lead to deeper rooting and better water-use efficiency.

Efficiently use low quality irrigation water: Use of reclaimed municipal wastewater is important for conservation of natural resources. Reclaimed water can be satisfactorily used if amended with gypsum and water-soluble polymers.

Improves fruit quality and prevents some plant diseases: The quality of fruit depends on the amount of calcium. Calcium is nearly always only marginally sufficient and often deficient in developing fruits. Calcium moves very slowly, if at all, from one plant part to another and fruits at the end of the transport system get too little. Calcium must be constantly available to the roots. In very high pH soils, calcium is not available enough; therefore, gypsum helps. Gypsum is used for peanuts, which develop below ground, to keep them disease free. Gypsum helps prevent blossom-end rot of watermelon and tomatoes and bitter pit in apples. Gypsum is preferred over lime for potatoes grown in acid soils so that scab may be controlled.

Decreases loss of fertilizer nitrogen to the air: Calcium from gypsum can help decrease volatilization loss of ammonium nitrogen from applications of ammonia, ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate, or any of the ammonium phosphates.

Keeps clay off tuber and root crops: Gypsum can help keep clay particles from adhering to roots, bulbs and tubers of crops like potato, carrots, garlic and beets.

Helps Earthworms to Flourish: A continuous supply of calcium with organics is necessary for the habitat of earthworms that improve soil aeration, improve soil aggregation and churn the organic matter with inorganic fraction of soil.

Dr Sarvesh Kumar Shah
Department of Agricultural Sciences,
The Fertiliser Association of India, New Delhi

Outdoor Shade Canopies

Writen by Marcus Peterson

The first thing we might think of when we hear the word 'canopy' is the leaves of tall trees which make a heavy cover overhead, not allowing the sun to touch the heavy undergrowth in dense forests. In modern times, 'canopy' has a different meaning. Canopies, or outdoor canopies, are temporary coverings used in open outside space.

In the same way, an outdoor shade canopy is meant for shading you, and your friends and family, from the sun when you plan to spend time outdoors.

However, there are a number of varieties of canopies, and one has the opportunity to choose from hundreds of canopies that are easily available at the retail shops and online. These outdoor shade canopies become a need when the sun is particularly intense.

Most of them are easy to carry and lightweight as they are required to be carried to different places for different events. Sometimes these canopies need to be assembled – the whole process is meant for saving space during the storage of the canopy.

Retractable canopies help one to avoid the fuss regarding assembling. Four important advantages are: they supports up to 60 to 90 pounds of weight, they are rain tight and water proof, they have screen windows at the sides and at the ends, and are available with shock cord poles that helps in setting up the whole thing.

The most popular shade canopy of today is the portable outdoor shade canopy. A portable canopy is the one which can be carried from one place to another without much effort. Usually these canopies are foldable. Usually the portable canopies are tents without sides, just a top supported by poles.

Outdoor Canopy provides detailed information on Outdoor Canopies, Outdoor Canopy Swings, Outdoor Shade Canopies, Outdoor Canopy Tents and more. Outdoor Canopy is affiliated with Solar Outdoor Lighting.

History Of The Filbert Hazelnut

Writen by Patrick Malcolm

The modern name for filberts has evolved from European folklore. The original name was connected with Saint Philbert's Day (Saint Filbert), the day that harvesting the nuts began, August 22nd, the day of observing the Saint's day of celebration. The famous Roman historian, Pliny, recorded that 'hazels' (filberts) were frequently gathered by the Romans as food. Pliny believed that filberts (hazelnuts) had originated in Damascus, Syria, where they grew naturally in forests; however, archeological records have shown some fossilized remains of filberts (hazelnuts) that were 5000 years old in prehistoric excavations from China. Almonds are found growing wild today in many European countries and Asia Minor. There, the climates are mild during winter with cool summers near moist soils and large bodies of water like the Black Sea boundaries around Turkey and near the Mediterranean Sea surrounding Sicily and Italy.

The first commercial nursery in the U.S. was established by Robert Prince in 1737 in Flushing, N.Y. George Washington visited this nursery by river barge in the spring of 1789 just after being elected the nation's first President. During the Revolutionary War, General Washington sent armed guards to surround and protect this valuable nursery that contained American filbert trees and "Barcelona" filbert trees that were imported from Spain. When Lewis and Clark conducted their exploration of the Northwest during the presidency of Thomas Jefferson, they returned with collected specimen plants to be used as nursery stock at Prince Nursery for propagation, research, and sale. Professor of Horticulture and Pomology, Dr. MacDaniels, of Cornell University, did much filbert hazelnut research at a very large nut orchard that he established early during the last century near Ithaca, New York.

Filberts are alleged to conjure up mystical powers by certain cult members and have been thought since ancient times to be used as 'divining rods' to locate underground springheads of water, buried treasure, minerals, ores, and as various remedies for illness and ailments of many kinds.

The European filbert (hazelnut) tree, 'Corylus avellana L.,' is the world's most common and commercially advantageous filbert that is familiar and available to markets of today. This European filbert tree grows to 20 feet in orchards when trained into a tree by removing the lower limbs. Orchardists there expect filbert trees to bear after three years of planting and a mature tree averages 20-25 pounds of nuts per year. Two different trees are necessary to insure nut production through cross pollination.

The developing nuts are green in color, but when mature, the nuts turn a chocolate brown; however, the filberts (hazelnuts) are not released from the hull until 6 weeks later, after drying. The nuts may grow in clusters up to 12 nuts, about the size of acorns, and are usually mature during the last week of August, being collected during the last of September. Although filberts are gathered by hand in Europe for commercial markets, they are gathered mechanically in nut orchards of Washington State and Oregon in the United States.

American filberts, 'Corylus Americana Walt.,' were described in historical literature as growing among native forests in bush form, although commercially the plant can be formed into a small tree up to 12 feet tall by removing the lower limbs. This filbert tree is very cold hardy, surviving cold extremes down to minus 30 degrees F; Zone 3 to 9, from a range that extends from Maine south to Georgia and westward to Missouri and Oklahoma. The American filbert (hazelnut) tree is commonly propagated by dividing clumps. This filbert tree is very aggressive and can emerge from severely burned over forests to become reestablished from the very woody, large rhizomes that grow about six inches beneath the soil; the American filbert is very shade tolerant and grows in light intensity as low as 1% along streams, woodlands, pastures, roadsides, and forest edges. The tree can produce nuts as early as the second year. Filberts are eaten by mammals, quail, deer, and large birds. The kernels of filberts are used in cereals, confections, candies, cakes, and canned as pure hazelnuts or mixed nuts for sale at Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Filbert hazelnuts are also used to flavor soups, to be eaten raw or to be ground into a flour to form a cake like bread.

One report from the University of Georgia farm claims that filberts (hazelnuts) have matured on plants that are located there at the trial orchard.

World production of filbert hazelnuts is dominated by Europe and the Mideast; 75-80% of the world's nuts are harvested from orchards near the Black sea, bordering Turkey. Another 15% of filberts are produced from Italy and Sicily, and a 2% share of the market comes from Washington State and Oregon.

As a health concern, many people need to reduce their risk for heart disease. The FDA claimed "consuming just 1.5 ounces of hazelnuts per day may help reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease" as part of a diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol. Doctors have proven at a Boston, MA hospital health study that states, "men who consumed nuts twice or more in a week had a 47% lower risk of sudden cardiac (heart attack) death, and 30% lower risk of coronary heart disease death."

Learn more about various plants, or purchase ones mentioned in this article by visiting the author's website: http://www.tytyga.com