Nowadays, a lot of newly built houses do not come with proper paths, due to the steep rise in building costs, but it's worth considering that nicely constructed ones can add value to the property. This applies to older houses as well—in this case, it might be a good idea to have a look around builders' merchants for slabs that match your walls—they usually have a varied selection. Even if you aren't thinking of selling in the near future, a well-constructed path will greatly improve the overall appearance.
It's best to do something like this in dry weather. You will need a spade, pickaxe, pegs, string, spirit level, 2m (6ft) length of wood (straightedge) for checking your levels, rake, brush, wheelbarrow, club hammer or rubber mallet, bolster, and a brickie's trowel. You might want to use an angle-grinder and a slab-splitter, both of which can be hired cheaply. Square slabs can be obtained in sizes ranging from 200mm (8in) to 600mm (24in), and you can also get other shapes, such as oblong or hexagonal. For lightweight paths, sharp sand is the best kind to use—your builders' merchant should be able to advise you.
Possibly, if you're anything like me, you'll want to see the results of your handiwork as soon as possible, but I'd advise a bit of patience. The secret to good paving is to make sure that you have a good, even, firm foundation. If not, the finished job will not just look untidy, but will also be a danger to anyone walking on it.
Mark out the area that you're going to pave with the pegs and string, and dig out at least 150mm (6in) of the soil. Remove the string, and check with your level and straightedge that what you have excavated slopes slightly away from the house—maybe a gradient of about 1:50. This of course is for any water to flow away from the house. In a situation where the path has to slope towards the house, leave a strip of gravel or chips 150mm (6in) alongside the wall so that the water can drain away. If a path is right up against a wall, remember that it must be at least 150mm (6in) below the damp-proofing course.
Lay a good base of hardcore (broken bricks, quarry chips, or concrete) in the trench, and press it down well, trying to keep it fairly even. Cover it with sharp sand, using the rake; use a straight length of wood to keep it even, not forgetting to use the spirit level to make sure that you keep the slight slope in it. When you begin laying the slabs, it's a good idea to use ply spacers between them, in order to have the same size gap for filling. Tamp the slabs down with the rubber mallet or what I use, my club hammer and a block of wood. Make sure there's no movement in the slab—if there is, lift it, identify the problem, fix it, and lay the slab again. Brush sand over your completed path, and work it well into the joints. You will probably have to do this a few times to make sure that the gaps are completely filled.
If you have to cut slabs you can do it using any of the following methods. If it's a good, compressed stone chip slab, a hammer and bolster is good enough for the task. Mark a line where you need to cut it. Chip lightly along the line with the bolster a few times, not being too heavy with the hammer! You will eventually find that it splits, hopefully exactly where you wanted it to. A slab-splitter can be hired if you have a few to cut. An angle grinder is the best option if you have to shape slabs around any obstacles. You have to be careful with this tool, as it can be very dangerous. Whenever you are cutting slabs, be sure to wear goggles, gloves, and a dust mask.
If you're going to cover a large area, such as a patio, make sure that you think and plan well ahead. You could look up garden landscaping sites on the internet, print some of them, compare, and develop a plan of your own from there. There's a huge choice of paving materials nowadays, so it's a wise move to consider what would work best for you. If you're new to the game, it's best to stick to a simple pattern, such as a regular grid—square slabs with the corners of 4 slabs meeting each other, a running bond—the joints are staggered halfway to look something like brickwork, and a herringbone design—made with rectangular pavers or slabs. If you feel more confident, you could attempt a random pattern, which is constructed using broken stones, slabs, or slates. This will take more time, and patience! If you have awkward shapes between slabs, you could use gravel or small quarry chips to fill in those areas, although they have a tendency to get scattered after a while. With large paved areas, it's probably best to hire a plate vibrator for a few hours, as it makes a better job of levelling the pavers, and gets the sand to settle much more tightly between the joints.
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