Protect Your Backyard Pond With A Floating Pond Heater

Writen by Terry Edwards

Make no mistake about it, winter is coming on us quickly. Aside from the usual yard work we all do in preparing for the cold weather, if you have a backyard pond, are you ready for the freezing temperatures? What are you doing to make life easier for your fish?

A floating pond heater can make any backyard pond a paradise no matter what time of year it is. There is something about having a backyard pond. The peace and comfort it brings is often times hard to describe. But, for many folks, they don't feel they can still enjoy a pond if they live in a cold weather climate. Nothing could be further from the truth.

The good news is that a floating pond heater can not only keep your pond looking healthier, but it will make your fish feel great also.

Pond heaters only come in two models, a submerged pond heater, and a floating pond heater. A floating pond heater will use electricity, oil, or natural gas for its power source. In addition, you can even find a solar pond heater. A floating pond heater uses very little energy and is actually designed not to heat the water, but rather to prevent ice from forming.

A floating pond heater can act as a pond deicer and heater in the event your backyard pond already has ice formed over the top. You can place the floating pond heater on top of the ice and it will melt a hole all the way through, eventually melting all the ice on the pond's surface.

Keeping up with your backyard pond can be a bit time consuming, especially in prepping it for the long winter months. You'll need to place wire mesh over the top of your pond to keep leaves out if that is an issue where you live. Later, you can actually lay down 1/4" plywood on your pond to aid in keeping it warm.

When the weather really starts to get cold you can install your floating pond heater. Make sure you shut off the pump during the winter. Leaving it on will actually do more harm than good by lowering the ponds temperature. It may also work against your fish.

The last thing to keep in mind with a floating pond heater is its power source. Depending on the type of floating pond heater you have, you may need to have a generator handy in case of any power outage from a winter storm.

No matter where you live you can enjoy that backyard pond throughout the year with a floating pond heater.

You can find out more about a Floating Pond Heater as well as much more information on all types of heaters at http://www.Heaters.InfoFromA-z.com

The Indoor Garden Plants That Clean The Air

Writen by Gwen Stewart

There are many reasons for creating an indoor garden – significant among them is the need to clean the toxins from our homes and offices. As a consequence of the energy crisis in the 1970's, today's homes and offices are built to conserve energy and the outcome has been a lack of air exchange, with the resulting increase of indoor air pollution. The World Health Organization has stated, "there's probably more damage to human health from indoor pollution than from outdoor pollution." Symptoms associated with indoor pollution include allergies, asthma, eye, nose, and throat irritations, fatigue, headache, nervous system disorders, respiratory and sinus congestion. In today's society more and more people exhibit these symptoms as a result of staying indoors the majority of the time.

One of the ways we can change this predicament is to become knowledgeable about and responsive to the environment that we live and breathe in. Foliage plants give us the opportunity to not only provide the calming influences of nature in our homes and workplaces, but also provide us with the oxygen we need to live. In a study conducted by N.A.S.A., researchers found that plants also clean the air inside our homes, buildings, and offices. The sources of chemical emissions that cause indoor air pollution include: acetone, alcohols; ammonia; benzene; chloroform; formaldehyde; and xylene.

These chemicals are found in cosmetics, nail polish remover, office correction fluid, pre-printed paper forms, adhesives, carpeting, caulking compounds, ceiling tiles, floor coverings, paints, particleboard, stains, varnishes, cleaning products, electrophotographic printers, microfiche developers, photocopiers, photography supplies, plastics, spot removers, solvents, tobacco smoke, wall coverings, carpet glue, draperies, fabrics, facial tissues, furniture made from preserved wood, gas stoves, grocery bags, paper towels, permanent-press clothing, plywood, upholstery, computer VDU screens, and community water supplies that add chloroform to chlorinated tap water.

Researchers have discovered the most effective plants are: Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) – removes chemical vapours; Arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum) – removes chemical vapours; Azalea (Rhododendron simsii hybrids) – removes chemical vapours; Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis') – the best fern for removing air pollutants; Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) – removes chemical vapours; Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera 'Bridgesii') – removes chemical vapours; Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) – removes chemical vapours; Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig') – best of the dracaenas for removing chemical toxins from the indoor environment; Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii') – especially effective for the removal of benzene; Dracaena (Dracaena marginata) – among the best plants for removing xylene; Dracaena (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') – especially effective at removing air toxins such as formaldehyde; English ivy (Hedera helix) – particularly effective at removing formaldehyde; Florist's mum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) – one of the best flowering or seasonal plants for removing formaldehyde, benzene, and ammonia from the atmosphere; Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) – removes chemical vapours; Miniature date palm (Phoenix roebelinii) – one of the best palms for removing indoor air pollutants, especially effective for the removal of xylene; Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) – excels in the removal of alcohol, acetone, benzene, and formaldehyde; Red emerald philodendron (Philodendron erubescens) – one of the best philodendrons for removing indoor air pollutants; Snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) – good for removing chemical vapours; Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum 'Vittatum') – effective for removing indoor air pollutants as well as chemical vapours; and Wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens) – good for removing chemical vapours.

These are some of the plants known to contribute to healthy air quality in our homes, buildings, and offices. Some plants may be better than others are but all plants clean the air as they beautify our surroundings and add oxygen and humidity to the indoor environment. Horticulturist Ken Beattie suggests, "The next plant you buy may save your life."

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and the booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Products. She owns the website Gwen's Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the books and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca

Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2005. All rights reserved.

Basic Gardening Transplanting Trees Shrubs And Plants Within Your Garden

Writen by Jonathan Johnson

Many homeowners often find a tree, shrub or plant that just isn't right for a particular location and decide to transplant it to a different location. Before transplanting trees, shrubs, or plants it is important to understand that transplanting an established tree, shrub or plant will disrupt its root system and "shock" it. When transplanting larger trees and shrubs it is recommended to do some root pruning one season before you transplant. You will need to take a sharp spade and cut the existing roots. Make your cuts around the tree cutting the roots as far down as the spade can go. This should be done at the outer edge of the trees existing drip line. The drip line is the outer most point at which water falls straight down from the leaves. By doing this the tree will develop a more condensed root system within the pruned area.

The best time of year for transplanting is during the cold, wet winter days. This time of year plants are dormant and will suffer less shock from transplanting.

In preparation of the transplant you will need to water the plant thoroughly the day before. You will also need to go ahead and dig a hole 50% wider and deeper than the expected root ball in the new location. Dig up some soil from around the transplants existing location and mix it with mulch, peat moss, or decaying leaves. Place some of this mixture back in the hole so the intended root ball will not fall below existing ground level. Keep the rest of the mixture on hand for filling in around the root ball.

To dig up your transplant use a sharp spade to dig / cut around the drip line as far down as the spade will reach. For smaller plants you should be able to pry out the root ball. During the prying out process it is a good idea to have two people and two shovels prying at the same time. When transplanting larger shrubs or trees you will probably need to dig a trench 6" – 12" deep outside of the drip line. Once you have done this dig / cut again down as far as your spade will reach from the bottom of the trench. Now it is time to pry the plant out. When transplanting these large shrubs and trees you might need all the help you can get from your friends. Once the root ball has been pried out of the hole, place a tarp underneath it and drag the transplant to its new location.

Before placing the transplanted root ball in the new hole, check to see if you have enough soil in the bottom of the hole. This soil is intended to support the root ball above existing ground level. Now it is time to place the root ball into the new hole. If the root ball falls below ground level, lift it out and add more fill dirt. Now you will want to center the transplant in the hole and firmly work in the soil mixture around it. Add the soil mixture all the way up to existing ground level. This should stabilize the transplanted root ball from moving around. If needed you can drive one or more stakes in place to stabilize the transplant.

Plants experience shock from transplanting making it a good idea to go ahead do some substantial pruning. Pruning will compensate for the loss in root area and encourage new growth in the spring. You will want to place a 2" – 4" layer of mulch around the base of the transplant. This will help control weeds and hold in the moisture around the transplant. Before calling it a day you will want to water the plant thoroughly. Continue watering and monitoring the transplanted tree, shrub or plants condition on a weekly basis until the transplant becomes established.

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