Buying A Used Skid Steer

Writen by Rey Dizon

Skid steers are incredibly useful machines. They are very useful both in their ability to perform a variety of different tasks and their adaptability by being able to maneuver in very small spaces. But they can be a very expansive investment for the smaller business. If you are unsure of the level of work that you will have for it, or are not able to invest the money to buy a new machine, then it might be worth looking at whether you could buy a used skid steer at a good price.

Buying a used skid steer could give you a great saving on the cost of a new one and it might be easier to find one than you think. A lot of the dealers that sell new skid steers also sell used ones. If you are looking for a used skid steer that is cheaper, but you do not have to have the technical skills to know if it a good machine, then this could be the best option for you. Buying a used skid steer from a dealer means that if it goes wrong then you can return it to the dealer for repair. Most dealers will give you a guarantee on your machine and although it will not be as comprehensive as on a new one, it should still give you the cover that you need if your new machine breaks down.

But a used skid steer that is bought from a dealer will usually cost quite a lot more than one that is bought from a private seller. There dealer has a lot of extra costs to cover and this will mean that you will not get it as cheaply as you would from someone who is just selling their surplus machinery.

There are a lot of places that you could try to find a quality used skid steer for sale. There ads in trade magazines that very often useful. You can find a lot of different types in these magazines, but you need to make sure that they are local to you, or you could be losing out on the savings that you make by buying a used skid steer when you have to pay the cost of transporting it. Purchasing a used skid steer can save you a lot of money, but you need to be careful when you are buying to make sure that you get the best deal on the best machine

Skid Steers Sale - Your online resource for skidsteers including Thomas Skid Steer Loaders, and tips on buying used skid steers.

Preformed Ponds Manufactured From New Rubberplastic Composite More Durable And Resistant To Wear

Writen by Gerry Fung

Traditionally, liner kits have presented many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond, ensure that it is level, and ensure that it does not have excessive wrinkling. A flexible preformed pond, on the other hand, is easy to install. The flexible preformed shell already has a pre-defined shape, yet it is easily transportable, since a typical folding kit comes in a box that can fit into your car truck (I.e. it is one-sixth the size of a regular preformed kit). Thus, installation involves merely removing the pond from the kit, unfolding it, digging a hole, and inserting the pond shell into the hole.

One common complaint of customers in the past has been that flexible pond shells have been difficult to unfold. To address this problem, as of January 2006, Algreen Products has introduced a new line of flexible preformed pond kits which are manufactured from a novel blend of rubber, nylon, and plastic. Using the new rubber-based composite, Algreen's ponds are now extremely easy to unfold. Because of the flexibility offered by the rubber component, which is supplemented by the stiffness offered by the plastic component, the ponds are also many times more resistant to breakage and wear.

According to Melissa Mulligan, sales and marketing director at Algreen Products, "This new innovation makes our flexible ponds easier to unfold, more durable, and more resistant to wear and breakage this composite will revolutionize the preformed pond business."

Algreen is currently incorporating the proprietary composite material into their line of folding pond shells and streamlets. The new pond shells and streamlets are being introduced in a black colour, and are currently available from www.buypond.com. The composite has also been introduced in their 144 gallon granite pond kits.

Each Algreen pond kit comes complete with:

• A rubber/plastic composite pond shell and streamlet (sizes detailed above).
• A SuperFlo submersible pump with a built-in pre-filter, telescopic riser, and a diverter.
• Fountain heads that allow you to set up a fountain in the middle of your pond.
• Tubing and clamps.
• 2 silk pond lilies.
• A 20-year manufacturer's warranty on the pond/streamlet, and a 2-year manufacturer's warranty on the pump.
• A free SuperGlo underwater light!

For more information about preformed ponds, please go to http://www.gardenSM.com.

Backyard Butterfly Gardening Made Easy

Writen by Faisal Diab

What are the implications of Butterfly Gardening? It is basically the method of cultivating plants and flowers in a garden, so that the delicate and bright butterflies are invited to it. Please your relatives and comrades with these lovely insects. However, ascertain that you have a secure home for them. If one has cats, one should reconsider his decisions, for cats may be the cause of the end of butterflies.

Plan a Butterfly Garden according to your private choice. While planning, the common issues to ponder upon are the dimensions of the garden and the kind of flora and vegetation one would like to cultivate. While choosing a garden of your choice, remember that the garden should have the flora and vegetation that invite butterflies.

It is necessary to discover the types of vegetation and flora, which invite the variety butterflies dwelling in one's locality. The library of the area will provide with this data. Any sort of water is necessary for the formation of the surroundings that will invite butterflies. Birdbaths appear striking. They also help to protect the insects from wandering cats and naughty dogs, by making them remain above the earth. A low, not very deep saucer, hanging from a tree or kept on a stick, will also serve the purpose.

While seeding a butterfly garden, one has to remember how he harmonizes the hues he has selected for his bed of flowers. Even though butterflies are least bothered by the selection of hues, one would hate his garden if it was a jumble of mismatched hues and surfaces. Lavender, Day Lilies, Yellow Sage, Purple Coneflower, Valerian, Daisies, Milkweed, Honeysuckle, Summer Lilac are some of the flowers which invite butterflies, for they are fascinated by flowers with nectar and not pollen.

It is convenient for a few people to sketch and paint a design of their butterfly garden diagram, to discover how their garden would look once completed. It has to be remembered that temperate hues such as red and orange are ostentatious and gaudy. Such hues leave a powerful impression when set in a dominant green backdrop. Hues having a calming and subdued effect, like calm blue and purple, look good against a white background, and generate an appearance of newness and brilliance.

Faisal Diab is involved with an online gardening project that informs and educates the gardening enthusiast through well-written articles. Discover how to get better at Organic Gardening, Indoor, and Vegetable Gardening. http://www.gardening-advice.org

Grow Herbs In Your Garden For Pleasure And Profit

Writen by Hugh Harris-Evans

Herbs can add a touch of magic to your garden with their supernatural associations and practical uses.

Records show that herbs were in use in ancient Greece where they were valued as flavorings and for their fragrance. Certain herbs were also credited with mystical properties. Herbs were introduced into Britain by the Romans who also valued the reputedly supernatural powers of the plants, as well as their culinary and medicinal uses. In Britain, too, herbs became a focus of superstition, reaching their peak of importance in the Middle Ages when every village had its witch, and every witch her herbs and potions. Herbs were also used to combat the witches' powers; garlic, hyssop and wormwood all combated witchcraft and evil spirits.

The medicinal qualities of herbs were even more important. In 1597 John Gerard, the London herbalist and apothecary, published his "Herball", a volume containing 1000 pages with woodcut illustrations of some 3000 plants. A rather smaller collection of some 400 plants was included in Nicholas Culpeper's Complete Herbal first published in c1640 and still available from bookshops today.

For most of us today the main use for herbs will be as flavorings in cooking. A few plants within easy reach of your backdoor so that they are handy for the cook will be well worth the effort. You can even grow a small selection in a container on a sunny windowsill.

Generally herbs thrive on a light and well drained soil. Although herbs can be planted in borders throughout your garden, it is more usual to group them in one place. Many formal planting schemes have been devised ranging from a chequerboard design of alternating square slabs and plants to using an old wagon wheel with plants in between the spokes.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Choosing Garden Furniture

Writen by Matthew Anthony

No matter how pleasant a garden is, it is not being enjoyed to its full extent if there is no where for visitors to sit and admire the beauty of the garden. Luckily, few gardeners are willing to sacrifice design for comfort and with the wide choice of garden furniture available today, it is rare to find gardens bereft of furniture. Garden furniture will if anything look great with just about any style of garden.

Indeed, many gardens will provide several different items of furniture so that people have the flexibility to enjoy the garden from a variety of positions. So how does the gardener decide which of these many types of furniture you should be added and to which parts of the garden ? Firstly, they should decide how the garden will be used - formally or informally. Some people entertain a great deal and would use their patios or decks as an extra room for entertaining, while others just want to enjoy the peace and quiet of their gardens. Alternatively the garden may double up as an play area for excitable children.

In order to entertain properly, guest should not be crowded and so plenty of seating is required. If you entertain frequently, you should consider garden benches and deck chairs for more flexibility. Also should you be lucky enough with the climate to serve meals to your guests without leaving your beautiful gardens, then consider a large garden table and chairs so that you have plenty of room. Additionally you will probably need a decent parasol to your garden table so that you can entertain with protection from the sun (or rain).

Protection from the sun is something the gardener should be conscious of and what better way to relax in your garden, than to add a hammock to a shady area in the garden. Remember, that you do not necessarily need to obliging trees as you can fasten the hammock to two four by four posts that are cemented into the ground or you could purchase a hammock stand.

Some people prefer to just soak up the sun and for those people the ideal items of furniture are sun loungers on your patio or deck.

Indeed, a patio or deck doesn't look finished if it is bare of furniture. A patio is complemented well by either wooden, plastic or metal patio furniture. There should have no problems locating the right pieces for your garden patio and be sure to consider a patio heater. A heater can extend your use of the garden both daily and seasonly.

Finally, as you wander through the garden beds, you will find that there are certain places that are ideal to linger in and ponder. These places are ideal spots for benches or a couple of chairs and a side table. You also may want to add a decorative garden bench to any area in your garden that is a bit bland or in need of a focal point.

Matthew Anthony has contributed to several garden related sites including garden furniture and hammocks.

Bonsai Care The Hawaiian Umbrella Tree

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Bonsai trees are dwarf trees that can be a fun and creative hobby. These miniature trees are grown in containers and training and nurturing them is an artistic endeavor that can be enjoyed by most anyone.

One favorite type of bonsai is the Hawaiian umbrella tree. This tree has thick leaves that form a lush canopy. In spring it blooms with red flowers in a wonderful show of color. This bonsai is very hardy and adaptable, and therefore quite easy to maintain.

You can propogate the Hawaiian umbrella tree through both cuttings and seeds. When starting out a plant, you should provide it with full sun so that it can grow a thick dense foliage. Once this is accomplished, you can bring it inside and put it in a sunny window or brightly lit spot. You may find that the tree tends to drop leaves after you move it indoors - don't be alarmed as this is just it's way of getting used to the new environment. Once it is acclimated, it will grow it's lush canopy of leaves again.

While the umbrella tree does not need pinching or training like some other bonsai, it does need regular pruning as the shoots do sprout rapidly. While rather easy to maintain, you must keep a constant vigil against pests and disease.

As with any bonsai, the soil quality for the Hawaiian umbrella tree is key to key to it's successful growth. Plant in a mix of acidic and mildly alkaline soil for best results.

Water is also important and your umbrella tree should be misted and watered about every other day. Don't let the soil dry out as this can have adverse affects on the health of your plant. On the other hand, you don't want to water it too much either! You should soak the soil and allow the water to drain - no standing water and do not let the soil become overly dry. If you see the leaves turning black, this is in indication that you are watering too much, if they tips turn up then you are not watering enough.

Bonsai trees can last a very long time if properly cared for. Many people don't stop at one tree and you can collect and grow several different varieties for your own miniature garden. There are many groups devoted to this hobby where you can share your experience and learn from others.

Although it is fun to share your hobby with others, always keep your umbrella tree away from children and pets because it can be poisonous!

Lee Dobbins write for bonsai.garden-corner.com where you can learn more about the different types of bonsai trees and their care.

Harry Lauders Walking Stick

Writen by Alan Summers

Have you ever wanted to add a completely unique plant to your garden? This week we are featuring a plant that is one of the most unique plants that we have seen - Corylus avellena Contorta, commonly called Harry Lauder's Walking Stick or Contorted Filbert. What makes this shrub so unusual is that the stems grow into contorted, twisted shapes. The branches, twigs and even the leaves are corkscrew twisted.

Every Harry Lauder's Walking Stick was propagated from a single plant that was discovered in an English hedgerow in the 19th century. The branches will add outstanding winter and early spring interest to your garden. They are particularly ornamental in early spring when they are covered with pendulous catkins. Contorted Filbert works well planted as a specimen or as a contrast to more traditional shrubs. The branches can be cut and forced in water indoors. When the catkins dry they can be removed and the naked branches can remain handsome without water for years.

Planting and Care

Harry Lauder's Walking Stick performs well in average, well-drained soil in full sun to light shade. Occasional thinning of the branches will help accentuate the contorted form. Expect it to reach ten feet high and wide.

For best results, plant in early spring or fall.

Does best in full sun with some protection from the hottest afternoon sun. Also performs well in full sun and light shade.

Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal in early spring and late fall.

Hardy in Zones 5-8

Click here to view Harry Lauder's Walking Stick on the Carroll Gardens website

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions.

Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more about Carroll Gardens, the weekly newsletter and the radio show.

About Window Ledge Gardening

Writen by Balaji B

The growing of flowering or foliage plants on window ledges is a form of gardening in which most people can indulge. Those who live in flats, and others who have no gardens, and especially invalids who are confined to their rooms, derive an enormous amount of pleasure from this form of gardening.

Window ledge plants would be more popular if it were not for the fact that a considerable amount of work is involved in filling and emptying the boxes. In addition there is the watering problem, drainage water dripping on to the heads of people in the streets is liable to cause some annoyance. By taking proper precautions in constructing the containers and setting them in position, most of these difficulties can be overcome.

Suitable Window Ledge Plants for a Spring Display

Some of the most popular plants for spring are as follows:

Arabis albida (double variety)

The procumbent stems of this plant are clothed with grey hairy leaves and bear spikes of double, white flowers.

Aubrietia

It is more compact in growth than Arabis and forms a close carpet of blue, pink or purple flowers.

Bellis perennis flore pleno (Dwarf Double Daisies)

These dainty, free-flowering plants are ideal for window-boxes. There are red, pink and white varieties.

Myosotis (Forget-me-not)

This popular spring-flowering plant is obtainable in several shades of blue and forms an ideal carpeting plant for many types of bulbs.

Primula (Polyanthus)

The Polyanthus does not do well in a hot position and should therefore be used for window boxes which are set in a shady spot. These plants make a bright display, and many variously coloured forms are obtainable.

Suitable Window Ledge Plants for a Summer Display

Here again much information can be gained by visiting the public parks in summer, and making notes of the plants used for filling the flower beds... from florists shops many of the plants given in the following list will be readily obtainable. For example :

Ageratum houstonianum (mexicanum)

This is easily recognised by its compact, upright stems which bear small tufts of blue, fluffy flowers. There are numerous varieties in different shades of blue. The plants are compact and the bedding varieties range in height from 4-9 inches.

Lobularia maritima (Alyssutn maritimum)

Commonly called the white or sweet alyssum, this plant is used extensively for edging and carpeting flower beds. The variety Little Dorrit is the most popular. It grows 2-4 inches in height and forms a compact mass of white, sweetly-scented flowers. Lilac Queen and Violet Queen are two excellent varieties of recent introduction.

For edging, the variety Magic Carpet, which has a creeping habit, and forms a profusion of small blooms in many shades of colours, is most attractive.

Begonia semperflorens

For freedom of flowering and for providing a continuous display in summer the varieties of this species of Begonia are unexcelled. The plants grow about 6 inches tall and produce masses of flowers of various shades of red or pink.

Visit http://www.realniches.com/archives/category/gardening/page/2/ to know more about modern indoor gardening.

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Great Use For Straw Bale

Writen by Morgan Hamilton

A straw bale is usually sane as something that has little or no use. But if you were to take a closer look you would see that a straw bale is durable it can be sold for the bedding for animals, landscape supply, and used in construction. They are also on and burned to either get rid of them or provide warmth.

The straw is the plant material that is dry caused by it being left in the fields after a plant has fully matured. Upon the maturation of the plant is harvested and anything that is not used is tossed aside. That is usually the genesis of a straw bale.

One of the main uses for this type of material is construction. A straw bale can actually provide excellent material for constructing low-cost walls that are quite durable and are excellent insulators. The use of bales for construction purposes was used by the states of the plains in the late part of the 19th century and early part of the 20th century. These structures are sturdy and many of which have stood the test of time and are still standing. Straw bale construction can and is used to build just about anything you can imagine including homes, schools and businesses.

Of course the attractive aspect here is the affordability of the material. The cost of a straw bale varies though as it depends on what time of year it is. During harvest time is when they are the least expensive as the added cost of storing the bales is factored out. A straw bale must be kept dry otherwise it's rigid integrity will be compromised. One of the main advantages of constructing buildings this way is that it's resistant to fire. The straw is packed very tightly which constrict the movement of oxygen and therefore is very difficult to set on fire.

It is also highly pest resistant. Once again the straw is packed so tightly that pests are unable to pour into it. The plaster that is put on the outside layer makes it so that pests can not penetrate it. The outside layer of plaster also helps to keep out small animals and rodents. Also, that straw has little if any nutritional value so it isn't all that appetizing to the little critters.

You may not have considered it but this type of material can make a very strong and well-built home. The pioneers and settlers on the plains used straw bale or construction of homes and barns for many years with great success.

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning gardening. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting Straw Bale

How To Plant Spring Flower Bulbs

Writen by Seth Miller

Spring is the favorite season of many. It is a time of rebirth, renewal, and rejuvenation. One of the greatest joys of spring is the beautiful assortment of flowers. You can get this joy at home by planting spring flower bulbs. These are bulbs that bloom in early spring while other plants are still developing.

There are many spring flowering bulbs, but some of the most popular are crocus, tulip, narcissus, and hyacinth. These bulbs should be planted before the ground freezes, preferably in late September or early October. This enables them to develop a strong root system before the first frost.

Spring flower bulbs should be planted in an area that drains well. Bulbs will rot in standing water. They must also receive adequate sunshine—at least six hours daily. The soil doesn't need any special treatment, but it should be loose and workable. If you are working a new area, you might want to add some compost or peat moss.

When it comes time to dig the hole, follow the package directions. Most bulbs will require a depth of six to eight inches, but loosen the soil for an additional four inches. Place the bulb in the ground with the pointy end facing up. Pack the dirt firmly and water thoroughly.

Spring flower bulbs require very little care. Simply water them occasionally, and add a mulch cover when cold weather comes. With a little water, sunshine, and luck, you will be blessed with beautiful, fragrant blooms in early spring.

Flower Bulbs Info provides detailed information on wholesale, discount, spring, summer, and fall flower bulbs for sale, flower bulb catalog and company information, and advice on planting flower bulbs. Flower Bulbs Info is the sister site of Flower Delivery Web.

How To Ensure Early Bulbs Bloom Year After Year

Writen by James Kilkelly

I often notice when visiting gardens the great quantities of Daffodils and other early bulbs that we plant to herald in the spring. But how do we ensure we have a great display each year?

The early flowering bulbs

Quite a few seasoned gardeners have had their first horticultural "experience" by the planting of a few Daffodil or Tulip bulbs, thus spurring them onto more adventurous plantings. At the end of April the very early flowering bulbs will come to the end of their blooming season. This group of early bloomers includes Daffodils, Hyacinths, Bluebells, Crocus, Snowdrops and early Tulips. All these bulbs will flower well for any gardener the first growing season but for them to bloom well the following seasons we must give them some care.

Dieback not tieback

All bulbs leaves must be allowed a minimum of six weeks after flowering to die down, so if these bulbs are planted in a lawn that area of lawn must remain uncut for six weeks. Refrain from tying your Daffodil leaves in knots to neaten their appearance, also avoid folding them over and securing with rubber bands. If the bulbs leaves are naturally allowed to die back then they will take in the energy for next years flowering. I would also recommend nipping off the spent flower heads on bulbs once flowering is finished, this will prevent the bulb using vital energy for seed production instead using all that energy to bulk up its food store for next season.

Don't forget to feed

The final tip for blooming bulbs next spring is to feed your bulbs, this is especially important if you have a hungry soil. Apply a foliar feed to the fully emerged leaves before the blooms start to form. Choose a general purpose purpose liquid feed.I would also advise you to feed your bulbs just as the blooms have faded with a granular bulb fertiliser applied around the bulbs base. This is the most important feed they will receive. Ensure this feed has a higher potassium or potash content than nitrogen content. Apply according to the manufacturers instructions and heed safety warnings.

James Kilkelly runs a professional garden design service in Galway, Ireland. He has a regular gardening column in an Irish regional newspaper. Visit his website at http://www.gardenplansireland.com/ He also regularly posts his expert advice to a gardening community at http://www.gardenstew.com/

Article location: How to Ensure Early Bulbs Bloom, Year after Year

Growing Vegetables And Fruit By Organic Gardening

Writen by Bill McRea

Organic gardening is the way of growing vegetables and fruits with the use of things only found in nature.

Why would one want to indulge in organic gardening?

1. One can easily make compost from garden and kitchen waste. Though this is a bit more time-consuming than buying prepared chemical pesticides and fertilizers, it certainly helps to put garbage to good use and so saves the environment.

2. Organic farming does not use chemicals that may have an adverse affect on your health. This is especially important when growing vegetables. Chemical companies tell us that the chemicals we use are safe if used according to direction, but research shows that even tiny amounts of poisons absorbed through the skin can cause such things as cancer, especially in children.

On the average, a child ingests four to five times more cancer-causing pesticides from foods than an adult. This can lead to various diseases later on in the child's life. With organic gardening, these incidents are lessened.

Remember, pesticides contain toxins that have only one purpose - to kill living things.

3. Less harm to the environment. Poisons are often washed into our waterways, causing death to the native fish and polluting their habitat.

4. Organic farming practices help prevent the loss of topsoil through erosion. The Soil Conservation Service says that an estimated 30 - 32 billion tons of soil erodes from United States farmlands every year.

5. Cost savings. One does not need to buy costly chemical fertilizers and pesticides with organic gardening. Many organic recipes for the control of pest and disease come straight from the kitchen cupboard. Sometimes other plants can be grown as companions to the main crop. An example of this is the marigold, which helps to repel aphids from vegetables.

Mixing 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap and 1 cup of cooking oil can make a cheap garden pest spray. Put 3 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 quart of water and spray on plants.

6.A simple mulch of pine needles will help to suppress the growth of weeds as well as keeping the moisture in.

7. Organic gardening practices help to keep the environment safe for future generations.

Bill McRea is the publisher of Garden Facts also Garden Decor and Landscape Trees Landscaping and Gardening with information and products.

How Do I Go About Selecting The Right Lights To Enhance The Landscape Of My Garden

Writen by Allison Thompson

Over the years many home owners will finalizing many projects that they started around their gardens and one of this projects may involve them using lights to help not just provide ample lighting where required but also to provide an enhancement to their landscape as well. It may be that they just need some lights to brighten up a sidewalk or any other walkway or it might be that they require illumination for that beautiful gazebo that they had built.

But by visiting a local DIY store near to your home you will soon be amazed at the choice of lighting available for your gardens landscape. One of the most popular choices of landscape lighting is the solar powered version. It is quick to install as you do not need to run any electrical wires to them or hook them up to anything in fact if you want you can move them around your garden into the locations where they will most be needed and once winter sets in they can be removed from the garden altogether and stored away until next spring. What an ideal way of keeping your lights as pristine and as new as the day that you brought them by not exposing them to bad weather too often.

Solar powered lights are certainly a real innovative product for the garden as although they contain batteries to give the light at night the batteries themselves are powered by sunlight and because they are sat outside all day they soon become fully charged and ready for use. Often as soon as dusk begins to set in a sensor on them will trigger them to come on and the battery contained inside will certainly have enough power to last the entire night. All you need do is plan where you want them to be and stick them in the ground and enjoy them lighting up the landscape of your garden each night. Another benefit that many people have found with having solar powered lights in their gardens is that they don't have to remember to turn them as they do that themselves automatically.

But as previously stated landscaping lights do not only serve to provide light to your garden, but they can also be a decorative feature as well. There is such a large assortment of lights now available for the garden to choose from and it all depends on what you have in your garden as to where the lights will be in order to draw people's attention towards certain features (such as a pond or statute) that you may have in your garden. For example if say you had an majestic old tree in your garden what a wonderful way of showing all its glory off to those who see at night by directing a light towards it and illuminate it in all its glory.

However, whenever placing lighting within your garden you should always take some time to decide where you want to place them as it really depends on what type of look you are trying to create in your own garden. It is better to go for more subtle lighting within your garden as you don't want to upset the neighbours by going overboard and too much lighting will make a garden look harsh, whilst just enough will provide you with the lighting you require, but still allowing corners and areas of the garden to remain a mystery to your visitors. It is also advisable if you can to visit either a local garden centre or garden show as the professionals there will be able to provide you with essential tips for making the best of the space you have.

Allison Thompson a work from home mum living in Spain with over 15 years experience in the property management field. She has set up a number of site relating to property matters as well as being the partner in a small real estate company. The sites she has set up deal with all aspects of property and how to make the most of what you have both inside and outdoors. The latest site she has added relates to Landscape Gardening and if you would like to know more please visit www.landscaping.oneohtwo.info.

Basic Gardening Transplanting Potted Plants Into The Garden

Writen by Jonathan Johnson

When you bring new plants home from the nursery or receive them via mail-order, it is very important to unpack them immediately. Damaged leaves or branches should be clipped off. Place the plant in a protected, shady location and water thoroughly. Water should seep from the drain holes in the pot and the plant should feel "heavier" after watering. It is a good idea to wait 24 hours before planting to allow the plants to fully hydrate and adjust to their new environment.

Once you have decided where a plant belongs in your garden, dig a hole at least twice as big as the size of the pot. For larger planting, it may be more efficient to till or turn a portion of the bed. You may want to mix compost or potting soil with your native soil to improve root growth. Place enough of the mixture back in the bottom of the hole and tamp it lightly so the new plant will not be potted too deeply.

Gently remove the plant from its pot. It may help to tap down lightly on the top rim of the pot or squeeze its sides.

Place the plant in the prepared hole. Add or remove soil mixture under the root ball to insure that the top of the root ball soil is at the same level as the surrounding soil. Planting too deep can kill the plant!

Once you have determined the plant's original soil level is level with its surrounding ground level you can begin back filling around the plant. Work your soil mixture in firmly with your fingers between the root ball and the surrounding hole until you have reached existing ground level.

Finish the planting by applying a 2"- 4" inch layer of mulch extending the mulch a foot or more in all directions. Good mulch choices include shredded bark, pine straw, or even stones. Mulch will shield the roots from the hot sun, help retain moisture, and discourage weed growth.

After planting immediately water thoroughly and at least weekly until the plants become established. If leaves show signs of wilting, but the soil is moist, you can mist the foliage lightly. Fertilize 2-4 weeks after planting.

Cottage Farms Direct Check us out at http://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com Click here to determine your hardiness zone: http://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com/hardiness.asp

Outdoor Lighting

Writen by Marcus Peterson

Appropriate placement of outdoor lighting increases the aesthetic and architectural beauty of an establishment. Imagine going around in circles looking for a house in a darkened street or searching for your child's toy in the backyard or patio. Without proper outdoor lighting, you will have lost your way.

There is a difference between outdoor lighting and illumination. Outdoor lighting should be acceptable with proper placement and usage. Decorative and commercial outdoor lighting works in landscaping and highlighting certain areas differing for homes, commercial areas, decks and sports arenas. One cannot have low voltage outdoor lighting for tennis courts or exteriors of shopping malls, hotels or restaurants. Strategically-placed outdoor lightings complement the design of the establishment and provide an aesthetic ambience.

Finance is a major consideration, and before going in for outdoor lighting on a limited or large scale, we need to assess our requirements. The basic function of outdoor lighting fixtures is to provide safety and accessibility and designs and size of lighting fixtures should complement the function. One can select fixtures such as accent lights, spotlights, floodlights, backlights or decorative outdoor lights on basis of outlay of building. Certain outdoor lights are automatically triggered by motion and are moderately effective in safeguarding property. These motion-detecting lights can be connected to a camera, alarm, or other security devices.

Whatever form or type of outdoor lighting we use there is no need to splurge as over lighted places are health hazards and an unnecessary waste of resources. A commercially viable alternate to traditional outdoor lighting is solar lights for home or public use. The fixtures, mode or design of outdoor lighting is similar to gift wrapping enhancing the value of object inside.

Outdoor Lighting provides detailed information about outdoor lighting, decorative outdoor lighting, low voltage outdoor lighting and more. Outdoor Lighting is affiliated with Gazebos.

Greenhouse Watering Tips

Writen by Mike Conley

Watering is likely the most time consuming, but yet important task of maintaining a greenhouse. Watering too much or too little could cause you to lose the very thing you have worked so hard to grow, your crops.

What's The Best Time to Water?

Like your grass, it is always best to water in the evening or early morning. Watering during the hot daytime hours will cause burning.

Over watering your plants is also dangerous and will eventually kill your them. You must find the proper balance between too much and not enough water. As you become more experienced, you will learn the best watering cycles for your plants.

When growing plants in soil-less composites, they will dry more quickly and require more water than other plants. The larger and older a plant is, the more water it will require when compared to a younger, immature plant. When plants begin to droop, that is a tell tale sign they are thirsty. During the dormant seasons of January and February, your plants will require less watering.

Watering By hand

Determining how much moisture is in a plant pot can be difficult, particularly if the compost is peat based. A common way to determine the moisture content is to gently press you fingers into the soil mixture. Another common method is to use a moisture indicator. Placing these devices in just a few plants will serve as a general indicator as to the over all moisture content.

Hand watering is beneficial to larger, more mature plants. It is recommended to further break the force of water from a can by wrapping a cloth around the end. Smaller plants and seedlings must be watered with a very gentle spray. You may want to try a spray bottle for watering these types of plants.

In a personal or a small commercial greenhouse, watering by hand is still the most prevalent method used to water plants. However, more and more crops losses due to improper watering methods may force growers to change their methods.

Overhead Spraying

Watering by hand is time consuming so many growers prefer to use an automated overhead spraying system. There are many tubing designs available that make perfect overhead systems when suspended from the roof. There are one and two sided sprayers, you will need to determine which best fits your needs.

Watering Alternatives

If you can not or do not want to spend money on specially designed watering systems with reservoirs, there is an alternative. Go to your local hardware or garden supply store and buy a lengthy piece of plastic guttering. You will also need a capillary mat. Capillary mats allow the plants to be watered from the base of the pot. Using the gutter as a reservoir, insert one end of a capillary mat. Just place you plants on the mat and make sure the gutter is always filled with water.

If you prefer, low cost drip system kits can be purchased. These kits typically come with six to eight drip valves which can be easily synchronized. A few even have adjustment capabilities.

If you can afford to, it is best to have an automated watering system. If you are a part time hobbyist, or an owner that is often pulled away for short periods of time, these systems are invaluable. Timers and sensors can be adjusted to meet your individual needs to keep your plants healthy.

Mike Conley is an accomplished Webmaster and publisher of http://www.Free-Greenhouse-Plans.com/ where he provides information on greenhouse plans and maintenance.

An Introduction To Insects

Writen by Damian Sofsian

It has been said that insects are the most successful life form on the planet. We have gone through many evolutionary changes but one thing remains the same - the insect.

As much as you try to avoid these creatures, there isn't a place on earth where they do not exist. On the sea, you can find seashore collembolan and marine flies on the surface. While beneath the surface, small larvae of beetles and true flies live and swim. Even in the cold depth of Antarctica and the Arctic, you will find some insects living and very much active during the 'warmer' months. You could even find larvae of the psilopa petrolei, a kind of fly, alive in pools of crude oil.

Some insects are also a little bit scary because of their size and features. The Acteon beetle from South America measures 9 centimeters long, 5 centimeters wide and is 4 centimeters thick. Also found in South America is the South American Longhorn Beetle, which measures over 16 centimeters (the antennae are not even included in this measurement!) can look very intimidating. While a stick insect called Pharnacia kirbyi has a reputation of being the world?s longest insect.

Even though some insects are big and scary, a number of insects are so small that they measures less than one millimeter in length. A feather wing beetle from North America, called Nanosella fungi, measures .025 millimeters while another Alaptus Magnanimus, a fairy fly, is .21 millimeters long.

Several insects also travel in big numbers. A swarm of locust is known to destroy field crops in just few hours. The swarm may contain up to 28,000,000,000 locusts. That?s over 70,000 tons of locusts!

Insects provides detailed information on Insects, Insect Repellants, Insect Bites, Dangerous Insects and more. Insects is affiliated with Ring Worm.

Tips For A Long Lasting Amaryllis

Writen by Briscoe White

An amaryllis grows from large bulbs. In fact, the bigger the bulb, the larger the flower. Always buy a names variety.

The Growers Exchange carries the following:

- Appleblossom – Light pink and white striped

- Christmas Gift - White

- Oscar – Red

- Byon – Salmon

- Dwarf Amaryllis

o Picotee – White with fine red edge

o Pamela – Brilliant Red

- Extra Large Bulbs

o Christmas Gift – White

o Liberty

POTTING : An amaryllis bulb should fit snugly into its pot, therefore choose which pot will allow a 1" margin around the bulb. Layer the bottom of the pot with ½ " of gravel, and the bulb should be ½ way out of the soil. Use a good commercial potting soil, and make sure to firm the soil around the roots of the bulb. Water the soil well, and allow it to drain. Do not water the bulb again until you see the first signs of growth. This will vary from within a few days to a few months. The first sign will be a flower bud, and once this is evident, begin a routine of:

- constantly moist soil

- mild temperatures (nights in the 60's)

- sunshine

The blooms should last for about one month.

AFTER-CARE: If you want to ensure a healthy, blooming plant next ear, it is important to take care of your amaryllis after the show. Keep the plant in the sun and feed and water while the foliage grows. As the leaves turn yellow, cut them close to the top of the bulb. Stop water and food and give them a month or so of rest. To promote growth, wash away 1" of the old soil and give your bulb a new batch of top soil with ½ tsp. of bone meal.

In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of gardening experience. For further information on flower gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com

Need Landscape Design Help This Is The Time To Plan For Spring

Writen by Yvonne Cunnington

The great thing about landscape designers is that they help expand your horizons and present you with exciting possibilities. Professional designers spend every working day solving problems most of us only face once or twice a lifetime - no wonder they have better landscape design ideas than we do!

A landscape or garden designer has knowledge and training on plants and landscape construction and can provide you with drawings, construction details and lists of suppliers and plants. Landscape architects have a degree and belong to a licensed professional association; they generally do higher-end residential or larger commercial projects. Be sure to check credentials, references and ask to see a portfolio.

Designers and landscape architects can help the process of finding a contractor, getting permits and overseeing your project to completion.

Landscape design costs

It's difficult to generalize about fees, as they vary quite a bit, depending on where you live, the experience and training of the person you hire, and the scope of your project. A full landscape design (drawings showing landscape features and planting plan) can range from a couple of hundred dollars to over $1,000 or more, depending on the complexity of the design and the overall budget of the project.

Landscape designs for free? Too good to be true?

Be careful when garden centers or contractors offer "free" design services. They may be more interested in selling their plant inventory than creating a design that meets your needs. And the people hired to do these designs are generally not as experienced as someone who has invested time and training to become a professional landscape designer. Nothing is really free: design costs are built into the mark-up on plants and materials.

You say formal, I say casual

Be as clear as you can about what you want – a good reason to have pictures on hand. Garden magazines are full of inspiring ideas. Be upfront too about how much you have to spend. Professional landscaping usually costs a little more than you think it will.

Think ahead, way ahead

Every spring, landscape madness grips every neighborhood in the country. "Let's do that project we've been thinking about," everybody says, all at the same time.

Spring fever means that landscape designers and contractors are run off their feet. If you want your work done early in the season, contact landscape pros the previous fall or in early winter – they'll love you for it – and you'll have their full attention.

Fall can be a much less hectic time to have a landscape project done – and it's still warm enough for construction and planting in many parts of the country. Of course, if you're lucky enough to live where winters are warm, landscape projects can be spread over more months of the year, but even so, spring is still a busy time.

Garden writer, photographer and lecturer Yvonne Cunnington gardens on a country acreage, where she has plenty of space to try out the new plants and garden design ideas that she writes about. She is the author of a book for beginner gardeners, Clueless in the Garden: A Guide for the Horticulturally Helpless. For more gardening tips, visit her website, http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com | For more garden planning ideas, click on http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/landscape-design.html

Waterfall Ponds

Writen by Elizabeth Morgan

When a waterfall is built outdoors, the best thing to increase its appeal is to have a pond at its base. The pond may be large or small, depending on the space the landscape provides, and may house plants, fish or both. Such waterfalls are ideally built of stone, so that they seem in harmony with the naturalness of the pond. They may have two or three steps in their cascade so that the water bounces repeatedly before finally falling into the pond.

Constructing the pond requires much care. Its size must be taken into consideration. Pond waterfalls are placed away from trees to prevent their leaves from falling into the pond and cluttering it. Also, they are sloped in such a way to prevent rain runoff from emptying into them. Their depth depends on how many fishes and plants are to be housed there.

The pond is dug in a step-like formation. The coastal area is shallower; the middle is deeper. The pond must be lined with a polyvinyl material, or concrete, to prevent the water from seeping into the surrounding soil. This lining must be further camouflaged with a layer of bed soil. Then water is filled into the pond. The pond itself also has a pumping unit to keep the water circulating.

Waterfall ponds are housed with plants such as water hyacinths, water lilies, cattails, arrowhead and others. Plants generally occupy two-thirds of the surface of the pond to provide shade to the fishes. Local fishes may be ideally selected as they are better suited to the habitat. Alternatively, there may be goldfish. Ponds also contain snails and tadpoles to eat away the algae.

Ponds are usually constructed simultaneously with the waterfall. The whole thing will require a lot of space in the garden or the backyard, so proper planning is required. However, a completed pond waterfall adds immense aesthetic value to the landscape.

People may construct their pond waterfalls themselves if they have the time and the inclination to do so. If not, there are several landscape designers who can be hired for such a job. It is necessary to seek permission of the authorities before digging in the ground, and also ask utility companies if they have any underground cables running through the landscape. The costs of pond waterfalls may run into several hundreds or even thousands of dollars, depending on their size and the organisms they contain.

Waterfalls provides detailed information about waterfalls, indoor waterfalls, waterfall gardens, waterfall ponds and more. Waterfalls is the sister site of Preformed Pond Liners.

About Hummingbirds And How To Attract Them To Your Garden

Writen by Lesley Dietschy

Visualize watching a bright green hummingbird in your garden moving from flower to flower in search of the tasty nectar within. These beautiful and tiny birds weigh about 2 to 20 grams and are found in a wide variety of environments from the high Andes to lowlands, and from dry desert areas to rainforests. They have slender beaks, extensible tongues, ten primary feathers, and tiny feet suitable for perching but not walking.

Hummingbirds can fly straight up, straight down, backwards, left, right, and even upside down. While most birds obtain their flight strength only from the down stroke, hummingbirds have power on the up stroke as well.

Most hummingbirds flap their wings about fifty times a second and have a very fast heartbeat and high body temperature. They feed every ten minutes or so throughout the day and typically consume two-thirds of their body weight in a single day. Their source of nutrition is primarily nectar from flowers, as well as sources of protein from insects and tiny spiders.

The key to attracting hummingbirds to your garden mainly consists of the right type of flowers and places where they can perch and rest during the day, such as trees or large plants. Hummingbirds are guided by visual means and are particularly attracted to certain shades of red. According to The Hummingbird Society, there are several possible explanations for their preference of red blossoms. Given that insects also see nectar, they can be regarded as competitors. Nearly all insects see well in the visible and near-ultraviolet light but poorly in the red end of the spectrum. Also, a red blossom may appear nearly black and unattractive to a number of insects, but not to the hummingbird, which can see the full visible spectrum but also some in the ultraviolet. This makes it less likely that an insect has taken nectar from a red flower. Another likely explanation is that during migration, red blossoms effectively contrast with a green environment more than other colored flowers do.

Hummingbirds are welcomed guests to nearly all gardens. By planting flowering shrubs and plants that are their favored food source, we can easily attract them to become regular visitors to our gardens. Below is a short list of their preferred flowering plants by common name, separated by region:

Southeastern United States:

• Butterfly Bush

• Cardinal Flower

• Coral or Trumpet Honeysuckle

• Cypress Vine

• Native Trumpet Creeper

• Texas Sage

Southwest United States:

• Indian Paintbrush

• Lantana

• Lily of the Nile

• Mexican Honeysuckle

• Texas Sage

• Western Coral Bean

West Coast United States:

• Beebalm

• Bottle Brush

• Cape Fuchsia

• Colombine

• Salmonberry

• Woodland Orchard

Northeastern United States:

• Blue Lobelia

• Cardinal Flower

• Hollyhock

• Red Morning Glory

• Salvia

• Scarlet Sage

Midwest United States:

• Coral Bells

• Coral Honeysuckle

• Foxglove

• Hosta

• Impatients

• Lilac

Even though flowers are the natural means to attract hummingbirds to your garden, man-made feeders filled with a mixture of water and sugar (sucrose) are an essential alternative. Sugar, whether from a flower or a feeder, is a necessary nutrient in a hummingbird's diet. Tests have shown that hummingbirds favor sucrose in flower nectar more than other sugars such as fructose and glucose. Therefore, with the proper ratio of ingredients, your feeder becomes a good substitute to the flowers that hummingbirds like best.

The formula for the mixture used in hummingbird feeders is 4 parts water (not distilled) to 1 part table sugar. Boil the mixture for one to two minutes, then cool and store in refrigerator. The mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week. Do not use red food coloring, honey, or artificial sweeteners in your mixture, as this could be harmful to the hummingbirds.

If one of your goals is to attract hummingbirds to your garden, a visit to your local nursery is a great starting point. Find an experienced employee who can tell you which species of plants grow well in your area and have a history of successfully attracting hummingbirds. Most importantly, be imaginative and have fun planting and growing your garden to attract beautiful hummingbirds.

Lesley Dietschy is a freelance writer and the creator/editor of The Home Decor Exchange and the Home & Garden Exchange. The Home Decor Exchange is a popular home and garden website featuring resources, articles, decorating pictures, free projects, and a shopping marketplace. The Home & Garden Exchange website is a link exchange program and directory dedicated to the home and garden industry, as well as offering free website content and promotional ideas. Please visit both websites for all of your home, garden, and website needs.

http://www.HomeDecorExchange.com

http://www.HomeGardenExchange.com

Solar Lights For Your Garden

Writen by Richard Chapo

We all care how our homes appear to others and lighting is a big part of that. Solar lights are a popular and cost effective option for adding a little zing to your landscaping efforts.

Many people enjoy the look of lights in their landscaping. Whether you want to light a path to your door or the area around your pool, proper lighting can heighten your night time enjoyment of your yard. You can choose from several options for lighting outdoors, but by far your best choice in this area are solar lights.

While you can choose from other different powering options for your outdoor lights, such as electric and battery powered, a choice of solar landscaping lights will definitely be the right one. Electric powered landscaping lights may seem economical and easy at first, but then you have to realize that they will add to your homes electric bill, as well as needing many dangerous extension cables and cords in order to obtain their power. Battery powered lights can be safer, but even more expensive, once you figure in the cost of batteries and the time and effort it takes to change them.

Solar lights work by recharging during the sunlight hours, and shining bright with that power at night. Solar panels are located on the lights, and these panels collect solar energy and charge a battery with that energy. The battery, in turn, powers the lights at night, eliminating the need for another power source. This is a very economical and eco-friendly way to light your yard area, and solar lights require little maintenance from you, the home owner.

You also have different options in styles of solar garden lights. Whether you would like to have a hanging solar lamp, a solar flood light above your garage, or even a solar security light that detects motion, there are options that can meet your needs. Solar post lights can be used to line a driveway or garden path to make your yard safer for nighttime use. Solar garden lights are available in a number of different wattages and sizes, so you can choose just what you need for your project. Most solar lights use LEDs, which are tiny but emit a strong light. They also take little energy to power, so your solar powered battery will last longer at night.

Choosing solar lighting for your garden is a great way to help the environment, while you are also helping to beautify your home. These lights can add value to your property, while also making your yard more useful at night – all in the most economical way possible.

Rick Chapo is with SolarCompanies.com, a directory of solar energy companies. Visit us to read more articles on solar power.

Greenhouse Kits

Writen by Jason Gluckman

The age-old experience of farmers is that once you have decided the structure, layout and position of your greenhouse, you can then buy a greenhouse kit to help you through the construction. A greenhouse kit is probably your best option, as it is most cost effective and probably the easiest way to construct a greenhouse.

There are many types of kits, and your choice will depend on the kind of greenhouse you want. The parameters for your choice are the size of the greenhouse, its shape and design, and what you want to plant in it. A greenhouse kit is probably your best option as if you try to build it on your own, the project will be time consuming and expensive.

A greenhouse kit will normally consist of a frame, panels, joineries, vents, windows and doors and most importantly, your bible for the construction, the installation guide. The construction itself will take only a few hours, and all you need to have is a basic home tool kit. The sight of all these pieces in various shapes and forms can be overwhelming, but if you follow the instructions carefully and go about the construction in an orderly fashion, you will be able to finish the greenhouse without major catastrophes. The installation manual will clearly explain what each piece is supposed to do, how to assemble them and how to go about the construction.

If you get stuck, do not worry; the kit dealer will have a customer service division that will be able to guide you. All the pieces of the greenhouse kit should fit together perfectly. If they don't, you should check with the manual to see what went wrong.

Greenhouses provides detailed information on Commercial Greenhouses, Greenhouse Gardening, Greenhouse Kits, Greenhouse Windows and more. Greenhouses is affiliated with Bonsai Pots.

Ornamental Fountain

Writen by Tamil Selvi

The word 'Fountain' is derived from the Latin word 'fontis' which means spring. Fountains add life to your home and joy to your life. Fountains may be wall fountains or free standing. These are available in variety of designs and materials.

The most common fountains are made of copper, bronze, concrete, stone, resin and fiberglass. Let us discuss about each fountain and pick your fountain. Bronze fountains are high end fountains, somewhat costly but they are long lasting and durable enough to be moved from house to house. Copper Fountains have elegant look made of copper with glass and slate. These fountains are bit too expensive. Concrete fountains are inexpensive and long lasting fountains, but it's not portable. Resin and fiber glass fountains are easy to handle than concrete fountain.

The fountains are placed both indoor and outdoor; it gives beauty and seizes attention of all. Many fountains are normally seen in small, artificial decorative ponds, basins and formal garden pools. Wall fountain are trendy with homeowners across all cost-effective segments. These fountains are easily available, easy to install and require less maintenance. Among the wall fountains, steel wall fountains are lightweight and do not stress the walls too much. Wall fountains made of copper are exceptionally stunning and hardy.

Fountains will create calm atmosphere and also soothes the mind of listener. The pleasant flow of water will enhance the serenity and peacefulness of your outdoor areas. Choose the right ornamental fountains for your landscape depending on some features. Consider the size of the fountain you crave, since it has to fit well in the available space. Other than size, materials used, color and price also taken into account.

Keeping most general features in mind we have to choose our fountains. The chosen Fountain should be durable, long lasting, easy to clean and install and it should be decorative.

Tamil Selvi is a SEO copywriter for smdblue.com, She has written many articles in various topics. For more information visit http://www.smdblue.com She can be reached at tamil@searchenginegenie.com

Caring For Your Wroughtiron Furniture

Writen by S. Johnson

Wrought-iron furniture is very versatile and beautiful. The smooth curves and designs can really catch a person's eye.

Surprisingly enough, wrought-iron furniture is very easy to care for.

Check with your supplier to find out if the furniture piece is primarily for use indoors, outdoors, or both and as to the type of finish, if any, that is on your furniture.

For most indoor and powder-finished furniture:

1) Use a regular rag and wash with a mild dish detergent soap and warm water.
2) Always make sure to rinse and dry your furniture thoroughly.
3) On wrought iron with smooth finished, non-matte frames, use of a paste car wax to finish is recommended.

For most outdoors wrought iron furniture:

1) The frames should be washed with a soft-bristled brush and using an automobile type soap. Make sure that you rinse thoroughly.
2) While washing, you should inspect for rust spots or chipping in the finish. If found, simply sand or brush away the finish in that area and repaint. A simple can of touch-up paint will suffice.
3) After cleaning, use of an automobile type wax as a finish. To save time, you could use a wash that has soap and wax mixed together and then just rinse and dry thoroughly. It's recommended to wax you furniture twice a year.

Of course, it never hurts to cover your outdoor wrought iron furniture prior to harsh winter weather.

S. Johnson is the owner of Azeche Co. and creator of http://www.shopazeche.com and http://www.letmeoutdoors.com which are popular shopping sites for all your home and garden needs.

Using The Propagation Technique Known As Budding To Grow Beautiful Ornamental Trees

Writen by Michael McGroarty

Flowering Dogwood trees can be easily grown from seed. However 99.9999% of the seedlings that sprout will be Cornus Florida, which is White Flowering Dogwood. It doesn't matter if you collect the seeds from a White Dogwood or a Pink Dogwood, the seedlings are likely to be white.

The only predictable way to grow a Pink Dogwood, Red Dogwood, or one of the beautiful Dogwoods with variegated leaves, is to bud or graft the desired variety onto a White Dogwood seedling. That's why the botanical name for Pink Dogwood is Cornus Florida Rubra. Cornus means Dogwood, Florida indicates White, Rubra indicates Red or Pink. Cornus Florida Rubra indicates Pink Dogwood grown on White Dogwood rootstock.

Between budding and grafting, budding is the most common technique used in the nursery industry. Grafting is usually done in the late winter months when the plants are dormant. When you graft a plant you remove a small branch (4 to 6 inches) from the desired variety, trim the end of the branch to expose the tissue under the bark and then trim a taper on the end. You then trim the seedling in such a way to match and receive the branch you are grafting on to it. Timing, temperature, and humidity are all critical to the success of the procedure, which is usually done in a greenhouse.

Budding is much easier, and does not have to be done in a controlled environment. Most budding is done later in the summer when the bark on the seedling slips easily. That means that when a cut is made in the bark of the seedling it can be easily pulled away from the tissue layer under the bark. This tissue is known as the cambium layer. Here in the north Crabapples and other fruits are usually ready to bud around mid to late July, while Dogwoods are not ready until late August.

Unlike grafting where you use a small branch to attach to the seedling, when you bud you insert a single bud under the bark. Budding is usually done down low on the seedling, very close to the soil. You can bud up higher, but any new growth that appears below that bud must be removed because it will be identical to the rootstock and not the desired variety.

The budding process is quite simple. Just clip a branch from the tree of the desired variety, this is known as a bud stick because it has many buds that can be used for budding. The buds can be found at the base of each leaf. Look closely where the leaf emerges from the branch and you will see a very small bud. In the fall when the tree goes dormant the leaf will fall off, and bud will remain. The following spring the bud will grow into a new branch.

When you slip that bud under the bark of a compatible seedling, it will grow the following spring just as if it were still on the parent plant, with all of the qualities of the desired variety. Almost all fruit bearing and ornamental trees are grown this way.

Just make a "T" shaped cut in the bark of the seedling. A horizontal cut about ¼" long, with a vertical downward cut about ½" long. The two cuts should intersect at the top of the "T". Don't cut into the cambium tissue, just slice the bark and open it up slightly with your knife or razor blade. Now you are ready to remove the bud from the bud stick.

First clip off and discard the leaf from the bud that you are about to remove. When you remove the leaf, leave the stem attached to the bud stick, just remove the leaf itself. The stem makes a nice little handle to hold on to. To remove the bud from the bud stick just cut into the bark and under the bud, it should pop off easily. Again, don't cut into the cambium tissue, but make sure you are under the bark so you don't damage the bud. Along with the bud you will have a small piece of bark shaped like a tiny banana peel, and the stem from the leaf.

Visit this page for photos of this complete process: www.freeplants.com/budding_fruit_trees_ and_ornamental_plants.htm

Holding the bud by its handle (the stem) slide it into the "T" shaped cut you made on the seedling. Make sure you put it in right side up. The stem and the leaf should protrude through the slit, and the stem should be pointing toward the sky at an angle. Push the bud all the way down into the slit by catching the bark, (not the bud) with the tip of your knife.

Now cut a rubber band so that it is no longer a loop and wrap it around the seedling to close the opening so dirt, water, air, and insects can't get in. Make a wrap below the bud, and a few wraps above the bud. Use a rubber band approx. ¼" wide, and be careful not to wrap too close to the bud, nor too tight.

You don't want to strangle the seedling, it needs to be healthy and happy so the new bud will bond to the cambium layer. Leave the rubber band on until early spring, at which time you should remove it, and clip off the top of the seedling just above the bud. As the plant comes out of dormancy the bud will begin to grow into a new branch just as if it is still attached to the parent plant, except that now it is going to grow upright and form the stem of a tree.

When this new growth reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet, clip the tip off, this will force it to start putting on lateral branches. Once these lateral branches are 18" long or so, you can remove all the growth from the stem below where the lateral branches start. Now the plant should look like a beautiful little tree. And that makes you the proud parent!

With all of that said, today it is possible to grow Pink Dogwoods by rooting cuttings under intermittent mist, however, it is tricky, and my few attempts have failed. ??? Most nurseryman still bud them.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

Porch Swing Places Where To Put A Porch Swing

Writen by Kevin Snook

So you've purchased a Porch Swing (or are about to) and you plan to hang it on the Porch? Not so fast!

Where you install your Porch Swing is as much a function of the need you are trying to satisfy as tradition and practicality. If nostalgia is your motivator, then the porch may well be the best place for your Patio Swing. But if you want a "Swing with a View", you might want to consider other options. And what about privacy and solitude? If these are your deciding factors, then you might consider a more secluded area. Finally, if romance is your #1 concern, then the immediate surroundings will factor into the decision of where to put your Porch Swing.

If you bought your Porch Swing because you long for the good old days, then the porch is probably the best place for your swing. It is after all where your memories probably happened. Perhaps you have cherished memories of swinging with Grandma on hot summer days trying to catch a breeze. Or maybe you fell in love as a teenager on your parent's swing. Whatever your memories, to capture the right "feeling", you'll probably want to hang your swing on the porch.

But if your primary concern is have a great view to enjoy, then you may want to consider some less traditional places to hang your Porch Swing. If, for example, you live on the seaside with a great view of the ocean and the passing ships, you may want to build a support to position your swing to face all the action. Or if you love a gorgeous sunset, then being able to see it from your swing may be important to you and this will help you decide on the perfect spot.

If privacy and solitude is more your ouvre, then a secluded area of your garden could be the perfect place for your Porch Swing. You could hang the swing in the shade of an old tree or backed onto thick and tall hedges. You could even build the swing support and then landscape around it to create the perfect place to sit quietly or read.

Finally, if romance is your primary motivation, then a place of beauty will be perfect for your swing. You'll want to consider a spot that is private and surrounded by fragrant flowers and blossoming trees.

Whatever your primary need, you'll be able to satisfy it with a little imagination and creativity. Of course, a good contractor can take care of the more technical aspects of designing and building a support for your Porch Swing.

Kevin Snook is the owner and operator of Cedar Patio Furniture Retailer; http://www.GoCedar.com. GoCedar.com ships Porch Swings free to Homes and cottages throughout the Continental USA and Canada.

Extending Your Growing Season Both Spring Amp Fall

Writen by Jim Kennard

Today I want to assist many of you who are wondering how to extend your growing season for a few more weeks. For some it may be too late, as in high elevations like Randolph, Utah, where it was below freezing more than one night in August, but most of the lower elevations in Utah and around the country are still frost-free as I'm writing this article.

How can you deal with the special challenges of living in colder climates? Several difficult weather conditions make successful vegetable gardening an "iffy" proposition, unless you learn how to protect your plants against them. The Mittleider gardening books are excellent sources of information on this topic. Let's discuss briefly what these challenges are, and how you can successfully mitigate their negative effects.

First off, many places have late spring frosts, which keep us from getting started in our gardens – often until mid or late May. Second, many of us have strong winds throughout the growing season that buffet our plants and dry everything out. Third, others of us face the scarcity and cost of water. And finally, we often have early crop-killing frosts, usually followed by several weeks of mild weather that could support continued growth and harvesting.

So how do you handle the shorter growing season with unseasonable frosts, the constant drying winds, and the lack of water? Let's deal with the wind first, since the solution to that also helps reduce the other problems. To protect your garden's tender plants, build solid fences or plant trees and shrubs between your garden and the prevailing winds - but put them far enough away that you do not shade your garden! Always remember that growing vegetables need direct sunshine all day long. This means that you also want to place your shade trees so as to leave the garden in full sun.

Some of you do container gardening, or raised boxes. When these are subjected to hot winds they are difficult to keep cool and moist. Consider either larger Grow-Boxes - we recommend 18" or 4' wide and up to 30' in length - or growing in the regular soil. Remember that Dr. Jacob Mittleider promises "a great garden in any soil, in almost any climate."

Next is watering. You will save ½ or more on your water usage by following these procedures. And it's amazing how much heat and wind plants can handle if they are properly fed and watered. First, make certain your Grow-Boxes or raised Soil-Beds are accurately leveled, and that Soil-Beds have a 4" ridge around them. Then apply 1" of water right at the soil surface (not by sprinkling!) before your soil becomes the least bit dry – even every day in the heat of summer if needed. This will place the precious water right at the plant roots, and waste none. Finally, automating your watering using ¾" PVC pipes, with 3 tiny #57 holes every 4", will make watering fast, easy, and efficient.

Extending your growing season is accomplished in two ways. Next February and March we'll discuss the first, which is how to grow healthy seedlings in a protected environment and transplant them into the garden after the danger of frost is past. The second thing you can do, even right now if frost hasn't already killed your garden, is to make "Mini-Greenhouses" for covering your plants. By themselves they are good, but with a small heat source they can extend your growing season in both Spring and Fall even more, often by 4-6 weeks.

Use PVC pipe, bent in a capital "A" shape, but with a 6" flat top, to fit your bed or box, and covered with 4 or 6 mil greenhouse plastic. This provides some protection against frost at night, and will warm the plants on cold days. Cover the edges with dirt all around when frost threatens, and open up when it gets warm. More details are at www.foodforeveryone.org in the Gardening Techniques and FAQ sections. © 2006 - James B. Kennard

Jim Kennard, President of Food For Everyone Foundation, has a wealth of teaching and gardening training and experience upon which to draw in helping the Foundation "Teach the world to grow food one family at a time." Jim has been a Mittleider gardener for the past twenty nine years; he is a Master Mittleider Gardening Instructor, and has taught classes and worked one-on-one with Dr. Jacob Mittleider on several humanitarian gardening training projects in the USA and abroad. He has conducted projects in Armenia, America, Madagascar, and Turkey by himself. He assists gardeners all over the world from the http://www.foodforeveryone.org website FAQ pages and free Gardening Group, and grows a large demonstration garden at Utah's Hogle Zoo in his spare time. Gardening Books, CDs and Software are available at http://www.foodforeveryone.org

Tips For Preparing A Planting Bed

Writen by Michael McGroarty

If you are preparing beds for landscaping around your house this article should simplify the process for you. I say that because of everything that is written about this subject, some of it is accurate, some of it is just plain wrong, and much of it is much more complicated than it needs to be. I like to think of myself as Simple Simon. I find the easiest, yet most effective way to do things, and they work.

Let's assume that the area where you are planning your bed is now planted in grass. How do you get rid of the grass? Chemicals or no chemicals? Chemicals are easy, so we'll look at the chemical method first.

My favorite chemical for killing grass and weeds is RoundUp, and used properly it is effective. Rule number one: Read the label on the package, and mix the chemical exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Rule number two: Assume that every plant that the RoundUp touches is going to die. It is a non-selective herbicide.

The first thing you need to do is mark out where your planting bed is going to be. Spend some time on this step. If you are landscaping around your house, give careful consideration to what is going to be planted in the bed, and then decide how large each plant is going to be when fully mature.

You can keep plants trimmed to a certain size, but be realistic when you make these estimates. Trust me when I tell you, this is the number one mistake made by Do-it-Yourself landscapers. People are just afraid to make those beds large enough.

Typically, a bed should never be narrower than 42", and corner beds should be 12' in diameter. Islands. If you make those little tiny island beds that I see everywhere I am going to come over to your house and snap you with a wet towel! The island bed in your front yard should be 20' to 40' long, and a minimum of 12' in diameter on at least one end.

The easiest way to mark out your planting beds is to buy a can of marking paint at the hardware store. Unlike most spray paint, this only works when the can is inverted, and it is designed specifically for painting lines on the ground. They even have cans that spray chalk instead of paint. I've always used the paint, it holds up better if it gets wet.

Once you have the outline of the bed established and marked, mix up some RoundUp and spray all the grass and weeds inside the bed area. Do not put RoundUp in a sprayer that you intend to use for other purposes. You need a sprayer that is dedicated for the use of herbicides. When applying the spray, be very careful not to let the spray drift onto the grass and other plants that you do not want to kill.

To minimize spray drift, adjust the spray nozzle so the spray pattern is narrow and the droplets are larger. A wide, fine spray pattern is sure to drift outside of the intended area. Also keep the pressure in the sprayer quite low. Pump it just enough to deliver the spray. High pressure causes the spray to atomize and drift. Apply just enough spray to wet the foliage. If you have liquid dripping off the blades of grass, you are applying too much. More is not better.

Once sprayed, be careful not to step in the area that has been sprayed. Many a people have had golden footprints across their lawn because they forgot and walked through what had been sprayed.

This is the difficult part, and the part that many people do not get, so pay close attention. The only way that the RoundUp can possibly work is if you leave it alone. Did you get that? Once you apply the RoundUp, don't do another thing with that bed for 72 hours. That's three very long days. I know you're anxious, but this is the price you pay for not planning ahead.

RoundUp is a systemic herbicide, which means that it has to be absorbed by the plant, then translocated throughout the plant. It takes three days for that to happen. If you go digging and chopping, you might just as well skip the spraying step. Go build a compost bin while you're waiting.

After three days the weeds and grass are going to look as healthy and happy as ever. Don't let 'em fool ya. They're as dead as dead can be. Providing the RoundUp didn't get washed off by rain within the first 24 hours of the waiting period. Now you can dig and chop to your heart's content.

However, the only digging that I do is to go around the edge of the bed and strip the sod back about 15". Just peel off about 1" and flip it into the center of the bed. This makes it easier to edge and mulch the bed if you get the sod out of the way. Now for the non- chemical method.

Mark out the outline of the bed as described above. Strip the sod back 15", just like above. Since you aren't using any herbicides I would dig down about 1-1/2" when removing the sod from the edges. Take the sod you stripped back and lay it in the center of the bed upside down and pack it down firmly. Now take newspaper or brown paper grocery bags and cover the entire bed area. Use 9 layers of newspaper. No matter what method you used, chemical or non chemical, you are now ready to fill the planting bed with topsoil.

Put 8 to 12" of good rich topsoil in the bed. Make sure the soil is higher in the back, closest to the wall, so the water drains away from the building. If you are creating an island planting make the center of the bed the highest point. Make sure the topsoil you buy is well drained and rich in organic matter. Buying topsoil is a tricky game, you've got to be careful and shop around. Topsoil is one item that you do not want to order over the phone, sight unseen.

This is what you are looking for when buying topsoil:

Topsoil that is rich in organic matter will be very dark in color. If the soil is light in color it is probably just fill sand. The other thing you've got to watch for is how well drained the soil is. Topsoil that has a clay base is poorly drained and sticky, and your plants will not be happy at all. They might even die if they are too wet. Once a clay based topsoil dries out it gets very hard.

Today most topsoil is run through a screener to remove the clumps, rocks, roots, and sticks. There is nothing wrong with buying unscreened topsoil, especially if you've visually inspected it and have found it to be of good quality. Actually, really good topsoil shouldn't have to be screened, but there is little of that quality topsoil to be had.

When you visit the yard where the soil is stockpiled, scoop up a handful of the topsoil and run it through your fingers. If it seems to be grainy, it is probably good soil. But if it appears to be tiny round balls that can be smashed between your fingers, it is probably a clay based soil that will trap water during rainy seasons, and get as hard as a rock when it's hot and dry.

Pay attention to how the soil is screened. Some machines just shake the soil over a set of screens to separate the debris, and others actually shred the soil. If the soil needs to be shredded, you don't want it. Look closely at the pile that the raw soil is coming from. If the soil in the raw pile is as hard as a rock, that's what the screened soil is going be once you get it in your beds. If it appears to be fairly loose, it's probably good soil.

Put 6-8" of topsoil in your beds. You are now ready to plant. Did you notice that I didn't get into rototilling and all kinds of extra work? Nor did I suggest that you add bone meal or any of those other goodies that the garden centers sell. I skipped the part about checking the pH too. pH is important, but I've found that good topsoil almost always has a suitable pH.

I've got a confession to make. In almost 30 years of growing, planting, landscaping and the like, I've never tested the pH of the soil on any project that I was working on. Is that smart? I don't know, but I've been successful in my efforts, and I have landscaped several hundred homes and grown tens of thousands of plants.

It's something to think about. What I'm really trying to say is don't get caught up in too many details, and be careful who you take advice from at those garden stores. Many of those sales people were flipping burgers last week.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

Hydroponics Gardening An Introduction To Hydroponics Gardening For Beginners Part 7 Hard Water

Writen by John R. Haughton

The Basics of Hydroponics

Your Water Hardness is a Critical Factor for Success.

What Is Water Hardness And Why Does It Matter?

Water Hardness refers to the alkaline mineral ion count, usually from Calcium Carbonate and bicarbonate. Water with a high count is called Hard Water. You can usually tell if you are in one of the many hard water areas of Europe because your kettle will get a build up of 'Lime scale' on the inside.

Hardness of water can be measured in parts per million by using a total alkalinity test kit. These cheap simple test kits are available from your local hydroponics retailer and are quite accurate enough for the purpose. If your water tests at anything over 150ppm it should be considered to be hard. Do not be alarmed if your water is hard, it does not mean you cannot grow things using hydroponic methods.

Why Does It Matter If My Water Is Hard?

For many years growers in some areas have had unacceptable results, with low yields and poor plant performance. The reasons for this have been unclear until it was realised that the plants were suffering from a chemical imbalance. Hydroponics growers were particularly badly affected in these areas.

Growing hydroponically using normal nutrients means adding a balanced solution of chemicals to the hard water. The hard water already contains an excess of some of the essential minerals that the plant needs and so the solution quickly becomes imbalanced in the nutrient tank.

In order to reduce the pH of the standard nutrient solution the bicarbonate ions have to be neutralised. Because these alkaline ions buffer the solution it is necessary to add large amounts of Phosphoric acid to the nutrient in order to reduce the pH. This in turn increases the Phosphate ion content of the solution causing an imbalance. This imbalance can have serious consequences for your plants in a very short period of time.

What can I do abut it?

The simplest way around the problem is to use a nutrient formulated specifically for hard water areas. A Hard Water nutrient has been produced with the correct balance of nutrients to compensate for the excess alkaline mineral ions in the water. These nutrients are also much more acidic to combat the buffering action of the bicarbonates.

The benefit of using this formulation is that you will not have to add large amounts of adjusting chemicals to your nutrient in order to achieve the correct pH. Also your plants will have a balanced nutrient solution containing all the ingredients they require to thrive. This means that your crop will grow up healthy with better growth and a superior yield.

Copyright (C) 2004, 2005, 2006.
J R Haughton.
--- All Rights Reserved ---

A partner in a thriving retail hydroponics supply business, Rickie Haughton is the owner of hydroponics-gardening-information.com which aims to cater for all levels of expertise in the field of hydroponics gardening. The website is packed with good content about all aspects off hydroponics gardening and offers a free hydroponics Club membership to all subscribers.

Lawn Mowers Guide Cut A Fine Figure Of Your Lawn

Writen by Sardool Sikandar

Lawn maintenance is a quite wide term, which encapsulates the activities like landscaping, lawn care, growing grass, cutting or mowing grass.

A layman may reckon that the lawn maintenance is a simple activity of just growing and mowing grass, but it isn't so. Lawn maintenance means meticulously grooming a lawn. It's not just growing or mowing grass, rather keeping a professional savvy about growing & cutting grass.

The two adverbs 'when' and 'how' are very important in lawn maintenance. They raise scores of questions like 'When should the grass be mowed? How frequently the grass be mowed? How high should the grass be cut? How low should grass be cut? How should the grass be mowed?'

These are not simple questions to answer. One needs to have professional knowledge on the subject and an unprofessional approach may prove insalubrious for a lawn.

When should the grass be mowed?

There are few important things that should be kept in mind before getting ready to mow the grass.

First, it should be made sure that the lawn is not damp or wet. One shouldn't try mowing even dewy grass. A damp or wet lawn may lead to lousy mowing by mower getting clogged with grass or bogging down. The mower may pull out the clumps of grass from the wet land. The simple solution in such cases is to wait and let the lawn fully dry.

Secondly, it's high time to mow when the grass has grown to at least a third past its mowing height.

How frequently the grass be mowed?

The frequency of mowing grass depends on the type of grass and season. The different grasses have different growing patterns and different peak growing seasons. They grow quickly in their respective peak growing seasons.

The warm season grasses flourish when temperatures exceed 80 degrees F. They grow very fast during summer and thus may need mowing every 3-4 days. The growth rate of these grasses may decline in the fall season and thus may only need mowing every other week. These grasses usually become brown and dormant depending on the drop in temperature in winter.

The cool season grasses, on other hand flourish in 60-75 degrees F. They are active in spring and fall months and thus may require mowing frequently. The growth rate of these grasses declines during hot and dry summers and they require less cutting. These grasses cannot bear hot summer and may also turn brown and dormant in extreme hot conditions, but the damp climate and higher elevations are very conducive for them. The bluegrass or fescue lawn grasses grow actively in spring. They should be mowed every three to four days during the spring and only once every seven to 10 days when their growth is stumbled by heat, drought or cold.

The grass grows fast in rainy season and thus requires to be mowed quite frequently.

About Author : The Author owns a website about Golf Vacations. The website offers quick and easy tips to find Cheap Golf Vacations.

How To Raise The Strongest Most Beautiful Bulbs

Writen by Louanne Baelde

Bulbs are your best bet for success. It's almost impossible to make a mistake because all the nutrients that the flower needs, are in the bulb. What you may find difficult, is actually choosing which bulbs you want.

This article will help you select healthy bulbs and will give you tips on how to get them ready, from preparing the soil, fertilizing, and planting.

Selecting Healthy Bulbs

The secret to a fantastic flower garden is choosing high-quality bulbs. Make sure that you always buy your bulbs from a reliable source, whether you are shopping from a catalog, outlet or local store. Even if the bulbs are a little more costly, you will save money on the long run, if the source is a good one, than simply searching for the best bargain.

Because the bulb stores the energy in the bulb (in the form of starch,) larger bulbs may produce larger flowers. This does not mean however, that you should buy only large bulbs. Don't hesitate to buy smaller ones as well from a reliable source. These smaller bulbs may just need a season or two to catch up to the larger ones. If you want to have spectacular blooms this year, then buy the larger bulbs.

If you're buying your bulbs from a local store, inspect them carefully. They should be firm and not have any cuts, blemishes or spots on them. They should not feel dry or light, but more on the heavy side for their size. The basal plate (where the roots emerge) should be solid and firm. It's okay for the bulbs to have loose skin or little nicks. This would not affect their development in any way.

Getting Ready

It's always important to choose the right spot for your bulbs, whether it be inside or outside. You probably know about the differences in planting in the garden; how certain plants will thrive better under certain conditions than others.

When you select your location for your new bulbs, try to think about its needs and where it may do best. Don't forget that even a few feet can make a huge difference with levels of light. What may be suitable lighting at the edge of your shrubs may not be suitable over by the corner of your house, even if it's only a small jog away.

Preparing the Soil

Except for Siberian irises, most bulbs prefer loose, porous soil because they need to have good drainage. If your soil does not drain well, improve it by adding nutrients, raising the beds, or installing drain lines.

Almost any soil can benefit from organic materials, especially sandy and heavy clay soils.

Fertilizing

Mix bone meal or superphosphate into the soil at the bottom of each planting hole. Because phosphorus does not move easily; it must be planted deep enough to allow the roots to reach it.

Planting

Try to plant your bulbs as soon as you can when the weather permits and is suitable for planting. If you can't plant them right away, store them in a cool place such as your refrigerator. Never store them in closed bags as they might rot. Bulbs need to breathe! Open the bags or place them instead in paper ones.

Most bulbs are planted at a depth three times their diameter. It's easier if you dig up a larger area at the proper depth, set them inside the hole, and then cover them.

For more great gardening tips: http://www.ez-gardening-tips.com