Saturday, January 10, 2009

Successful Organic Gardening Systems

Writen by Julie Williams

What is it that most organic gardeners want from their amazing food gardens?

* Is it the substantial health benefits:

- knowing that your food is GM and synthetic chemicals and free?

- gathering your food from garden to table in minutes, retaining valuable, health enhancing nutrients?

* Or the pleasure of losing yourself in the delight of time spent in your garden?

* Maybe it's about spending time teaching your children how to garden

* Perhaps it's your creative outlet; designing, creating, maintaining

* Do you view it as your part in helping the environment; reduce, reuse, recycle?

I believe Organic Gardening brings us most (or all) of these things. Some of the practices that are a must for having a healthy, high yielding vegetable garden include strategies or systems that bring about healthy soil, deep watering, balanced insect populations and crop rotation / planning.

Having nutrient rich, well balanced soil, high in microbial activity can be achieved by continually adding organic matter to the soil. You can do this with compost (making your own compost has many benefits), green manures, crop rotation and a "no dig" policy. A high yielding garden is dependant on healthy soil.

Deep watering will encourage your plants to develop deep root systems. This enables them to take in more water and nutrients. You then have strong, healthy plants that do well with regular deep watering. Mulching prevents moisture loss, soil erosion and reduces weeds. Installing drip irrigation – especially when combined with a timer – will benefit you, your garden and the environment.

If you want to be chemical and / or spray free getting the right balance of beneficial and harmful insects throughout your garden is crucial. Yes, I said harmful insects! If there were no harmful insects for the beneficial ones to feed on all your beneficial insects will die or go elsewhere. Nature abounds in symbiotic relationships and this works very efficiently in the garden. Imagine if you had no predatory insects and were then inundated with carrot fly. There would be no stopping them, unless you resorted to chemicals – and you should never allow this in your organic garden.

Arm yourself instead with companion planting practices; practical methods to outwit the enemy (harmful insects) the way nature intended. Plant combinations that will confuse pests by masking the smell and shapes of plants which pests use to locate their favourite foods. In my Companion Planting guide you will also discover which plants benefit each other and those you must never plant together.

With the basics covered you just need to decide what you're going to grow, how much of it and when. You know your family's food needs better than anyone else, so there's no point in growing 15 brussels sprouts plants if your family won't eat them. You also need to know the right time of year to plant different families. For example: Cucurbits (cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, melons) need to grow in warm temperatures. In winter (unless you can artificially provide the right conditions) your crop will fail – so leave it till the ground has warmed, the days are lengthening and the risk of late frost has passed (mid spring in most areas).

Rotating your crops is also a good practice. Otherwise you will deplete the soil of particular nutrients / elements that a crop planted continually in the same place needs. This also means that the crop will perform worse each year as the nutrients it needs decline.

I like to spend winter evenings planning what, where and how much I'm going to plant in my veggie garden next season. Keeping a gardening journal comes in really handy when I'm planning. It reminds me what worked previously, what I'd like to do differently and whether or not I planted enough or too much of a particular plant to meet our needs.

If you think this is all a bit overwhelming, just remember progress, not perfection. Just get started and improve upon it as you go. So you really have no excuse. You have enough information to make a great start and you can build on it as you gain more experience.

Hi, I am an avid organic gardener and am known by my friends as the recycling queen. I live on a small country property in South Australia. It is my mission to encourage as many people as possible to start organic gardening. This will improve both our individual lives and the wellbeing of our personal and global environments. Please visit my website for more great organic gardening tips & information. For Companion Planting info click here.

Happy gardening, healthy living…
Julie Williams
http://www.1stoporganicgardening.com

How To Plant Tulips

Writen by David Chandler

Quality Dutch tulip bulbs are easy to come by and fairly inexpensive to purchase. You can get them through a mail order catalogue or a reputable green house. It is becoming increasingly popular to buy flower bulbs from online nurseries. The downfall to buying bulbs online is that you cannot inspect the bulbs prior to purchase. The highest quality of bulbs, especially tulips, comes from Holland.

Tulip bulbs are best when purchased early in the planting season. Only buy firm, light colored bulbs where the skin peels off easily. This will insure that the bulbs are disease free. Buy by species, not by color. If the bin is simply labeled "yellow bulbs", you do not know what exactly you are getting. If you are not sure when the best time to plant is, ask the greenhouse keeper about the conditions of your zone.

Spring bulbs such as tulips, need to be planted when it is cool enough to keep them from sprouting, but still warm enough for the roots to establish themselves before winter sets in. Plant tulips six inches deep and cover. If you have problems with moles and other little creatures digging up your tulips, you may plant them as deep as eight inches. If your bulbs are still being whisked away in the dead of night, there are bulbs planting cases you can get at the greenhouse. A little known fact about planting tulips, after the initial watering in after planting, do not water your tulips again until their leaves appear.

For more information, visit these sites:

http://www.TulipsInfo.com
http://www.BulbsInfo.com

Friday, January 9, 2009

Avoiding Unsightly Algae

Writen by Brett Fogle

Excessive organic matter in the pond provides nutrients for algae, contributing to its growth. Algae can obscure the view of colorful fish, and more dangerously, it robs the water of valuable oxygen and releases harmful pollutants.

UV clarifiers also are effective tools that use ultraviolet light to destroy the reproductive ability of suspended algae. Dead, microscopic algae will clump together into particles large enough to be removed by filtration.

Increasing the amount of floating and oxygenating plants in your pond is another simple solution to keeping the water clean, and clear. Floating plants such as water lilies, water lettuce, lotus and water hyacinth provide shade, reducing sunlight in the pond, which helps control algae growth.

Submerged plants, also known as oxygenators, affect the carbon dioxide and oxygen levels of the pond by competing directly with algae for light and food. Oxygenators absorb nutrients from fish waste and minerals through their leaves, helping to starve algae, keeping the water clear. Some examples of oxygenators are Hornwart, Anacharis and Parrot's Feather.

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Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
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