Saturday, February 28, 2009

Cannibals On The Porch

Writen by Jim Burnell

No, ghosts of the Donner Party have not started haunting my porch, nor have others of the human type I may have reference to. I am speaking of cannibals in the insect world of which there are many, but two in particuIar that make me stop and wonder. The first is waxy black with a small red hourglass on her abdomen. She dangles on a thin thread late on warm summer nights in doorways or dark corners waiting for the what ever comes her way. I am sure you guessed, it is the female black widow spider, (Latrodectus Mactans) that I am referring to, and she is no stranger to many porches and gardens around the world . Her potent neurotoxic venom is more deadly than a rattle snake, although the actual bite is less noticeable. But she is only one of the many cannibals waiting outside.

If you are lucky, your porch may attract a less deadly, human friendly cannibal, with lightning strike reflexes and human like characteristics. The adult praying mantis, of whom its been said, is the only insect able to swivel its head around 180 degrees. Mantis is the Greek word for prophet, and if you see one of these on your porch you are immediately impressed by its show of awareness and seeming lack of fear as it turns its head and watches you walk by. The praying mantis, also commonly called mantids, like the black widow, have a reputation of sexual cannibalism, in that the females are known for eating the males head after and sometimes during mating, which in truth only happens some of the time, however in the case of the mantids, the young nymphs emerging from their egg cases will begin to eat each other if another food source is not found within one or two days and they are kept caged together with no means of escape. They emerge from their eggs as tiny strings, one attached to the next, through a row of pin-sized holes in the egg. As the string grows longer they individually begin to unfold into tiny little creatures looking just like their parents, only wingless, stringy and weak, but able to walk or run to high ground, or I should say elevated branches and leaves as they seem to have an instinct to climb, like tiny infantry soldiers searching for a safe place to lie in wait for any soft bodied insect they can over-power while avoiding any large ants or meat bees which can easily carry them of at this age.

As a gardener and amateur entomologist I am naturally drawn to these two insects. In the case of the black widow, it is the possibility of a nasty bite, and a trip to the emergency room, which has always concerned me. In the case of the praying mantis, besides its mysterious fascination and pre-historic looks, it is its reputation as a beneficial insect for pest control that got my attention. Then I got a crazy idea about using the talents of the mantis to control the black-widow population by setting them out as sentinels on the porch and in the yard and so I went about gathering mantid egg cases from neighboring areas, "oothecas", as they are called, and began waiting for them to hatch, while I designed several cages which I thought appropriate. The first ootheca hatched in mid-April and I somehow missed it. I turned to look in the glass container as usual and there were over one-hundred little guys about five sixteenths of an inch long, running and jumping from branch to branch exploring the gallon container. They had all come from one egg case! Little did I know at that time what I was getting into as I tried to figure out how to get the other egg cases out of the container without half of the little guys escaping in the process. The first thing I realized was that I was going to need a good pair of glasses, and a lot of time and patience to journey into this insects world.

Since then four months have passed and since this is not the place for a novel, I will only share information, as it would relate to gardening and pest control. As for the black widow, we will just have to wait and see, but for once I would say that the "little prophet", lives up to the hype of its reputation as a good beneficial, provided certain procedures are taken.

Most beneficial insect companies recommend releasing your mantids immediately or just placing the egg cases out in the garden to hatch on their own. I would not recommend this as most of them will fall prey to other predatory insects at this age, as they do not get their wings till the end of their third month and their only defenses are camouflage and stealth during the first few days. If a colony of large ants track them down, the whole population from an egg case can become ant food in a few hours. It is better to wait three to four weeks before releasing them, letting them grow to between five eighths and three quarters of an inch, during this time they have learned a little self-defense from practicing with each other. This can be done very easily with a self-feeding ant proof cage that can be kept outdoors with very little maintenance and reused year after year. If this is done the survival rate will increase dramatically and many more mantids will be found protecting the garden later in the season. At this point you can release them strategically or randomly. If you want to target specific plants with a pest problem, you can release them every four inches apart or so and after they find a spot they like they will most likely stay in or near to that spot ranging no more than twelve inches or so contrary to popular belief. They will usually stay in that general area for several weeks until they can no longer find food, or until they become prey for meat bees, which constantly hover in search of a meal, and crafty spiders that sneak up from underneath and in a surprise attack inject their poison. Many times it may seem that they are gone and then several days later they are back again when all the time they were hiding right in front of you. Some of my outside mantids have stayed in the same place for two months. Do not expect miracles. If a pest infestation has already occurred it is most likely too late for these beneficials to be of much help. At this age they may eat only four or five aphids or small flies a day but they can survive on less and they will not eat if they are not hungry. They will also help control the mosquito population as I found out when I introduced a few mosquitoes into their cages. In fact there is the possibility of them being very effective for mosquito control if released in marshlands or around stagnant water.

As time goes by they will begin eating larger and more difficult prey. At about ninety days, give or take a day or two, after they have shed their last exoskeleton they will show their wings. It usually happens at night and in the morning, there they are, a beautiful set of wings. It seems like a small miracle the first time you see this happen. This is the easiest time to differentiate between the sexes and when the females start their domination although if you have the eyes of a child, or a good magnifying glass, the sexes can be determined by counting body segments at a very early age. This is also the point at which they start traveling about the yard, or flying over to the yard next door to look for a mate and search for larger prey like grasshoppers, crickets, cockroaches, moths, etc. They have now grown to between two and a half to three inches, and can no longer catch the smaller prey. Their hunting skills have developed into a form of art and they have reached their full potential The female now looks like a miniature version from the Jurassic period, with strong hooked arms and columns of sharp, tapered spikes. She can flare up her wings in defiance vibrating delicate webbing which extends to her body causing her to appear large and ferocious to any approaching threat. Most humans would step back upon seeing this display for the first time, kind of like hearing a rattlesnake when you are not expecting it. This is also the time when you might expect me to place them on the porch as sentinels to complete this experiment. Well I said in the beginning it was a crazy idea and I cannot find one black widow on the porch anyway, or in the yard. Besides, raising these wonderful creatures in captivity they have become like family pets some of which I have given names to and praise or scold according to their behavior. To subject one of my pets to a life or death battle with a black widow is no longer an option. I am sure they would not stay on the porch for more than a couple of days anyway, just long enough to say good bye and maybe scare off a few solicitors before flying off in the night to safely deposit their eggs and then face their deadliest of prey, the futile first frost.

Jim Burnell is a carpenter/cabinet maker and small business owner with a lifetime of varied hobbies from boat building to studying Zeno's paradox. Currently he is studying the effects of catnip on mosquitoes and other insects, the testing and raising of certain beneficial insects in the garden and in captivity, and simplifying certain gardening procedures in transplanting and cloning. For links to his other articles, journals and ideas he can be reached at his website: http://www.spreadtheworld.blogspot.com or e-mail jimbkayak@yahoo.com

Friday, February 27, 2009

Six Rose Diseases And How To Treat Them

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Roses are beautiful but can be a bit challenging to grow. There are many insects and diseases that can chip away at the health of your roses. He are six symptoms of disease in your roses and how to treat them.

1. Malformed young canes or canes that are stunted

this is a fungal disease which is called powdery mildew. It covers stems bods and leaves with a white powder that spreads in the breeze. The leaves will turn purple and curl. To treat this, spray with Benomyl or Funginex.

2. Black spots on leaves

Aptly named, this disease is usually referred to as black spot. These spots are circular and have fringed edges causing the leaves to yellow. To treat this you want to remove infected leaves and pick up any that have fallen around the plant. You can also buy artificial sprays to treat and prevent black spot.

3. Stunted or malformed flowers and leaves

Malformed leaves and flowers can be caused by spider mites. These little tiny mites can be green red or yellow and usually hang around on the underside of the leaves where they have a good old time sucking the juices. You can try applying Isotox or Orthene to help treat these little pests.

4. Blistered leaves

If you notice the underside of your roses leaves are blistered you may have the disease known as rust. Blisters are an orange red color in turn black in the fall. This disease can live throughout the winter and in spring when new sprouts formidable attack them. To treat this get rid of any leaves that are infected both on the plants and on the ground. Spray Funginex or Benomyl every seven to 10 days for treatment.

5. Flowers which are malformed or do not open

this is another problem with roses that can be caused by bugs called Thrips. These are fain brownish yellow bugs that have fringed wings and damage your plant by sucking the juices from the flower buds. To get rid of them you'll have to cut off the infested flowers. Malathion and Orthene may also be used to treat this problem.

6. Leaves that are weak and mottled or show tiny white webs underneath

here you may have a problem with aphids. These tiny blogs can be green and brown or red and often hang around in clusters under the leaves and flower buds where they suck juices. Try spraying with diazinon or malathion in on to get rid of them.

If you're roses to not have any of these pests or diseases but are still unhealthy looking you might want to look at the way you are fertilizing them. Roses are very hungry and do require fertilization. Talk to your local gardening store to find out what's best for your area.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://gardening.subjectmonster.com where you can learn more about all types of gardening including indoor gardening, container gardening and organic gardening. Get gardening tips to help improve your gardens today!

All About Gardening

Writen by Lisa Marx

Gardening is perhaps one of the best hobbies that a more laborious nature lover can take up. The reason why I choose to call this hobby laborious is because it surely does involve a good deal of physical activity. This hobby is not meant for those nature lovers who simply want to bask in the natural beauty that already exists. Rather it is an ideal pass time for those who want to make their own contribution to the nature.

In order to be successful in gardening one must have the following qualities: -

1.) Besides having a love for gardening you should also have the will and determination to pursue your hobby.

2.) You must be physically fit and agile. Laziness and gardening are anonymous to each other.

3.) Learn to exchange your ideas and information with like-minded people who can show an equal passion for gardening.

4.) Try laying your hands on almost any books, magazines or articles that can enhance your knowledge on gardening.

5.) Be prepared to invest a small amount of your earnings in purchasing the "Can't do without", gardening tools.

The world of gardening is wide and it has immense possibilities for those who want to explore it with the right zeal and enthusiasm. You can choose from indoor gardening, outdoor gardening, landscaping, cultivating exotic herbs, growing bonsais and thus the list is endless. However it is important to do a fair amount of research work before delving into any of the above fields. You should master up the art of choosing the right plants and also learn the techniques favorable for their productivity and growth.

Growing plants is not enough. Deciding where the plants should grow is also an important aspect of gardening. Nothing can be more distasteful than a garden which has color clashing flowers growing all around in a haphazardly manner. So be careful about allocating the plants their respective locations. Arrange the assortments of flowers in accordance with their heights, textures and colors so that they complement each other without diminishing the beauty of your garden.

Keep aside one day from the entire week to be your gardening day. Generally week -ends would be a good choice. On this day, equip your self with all the essential gardening tools and accessories and get down to your work. If you have children or friends who are equally interested in gardening call for their assistance. The more the merrier!

Once you are done for the day clean your tools well and store them in their right place. Be sure to maintain your gardening tools because well maintained tools can give you years of good performance. After all tools aren't something that you can afford to buy every week.

Whether you are an efficient gardener or not can be best proved by your garden itself. So stop twiddling your thumbs and put your green fingers to use. As far as gardening is concerned, if you have really put in hard work your efforts will never go futile.

Lisa Marx for http://www.gardening-information-online.com.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Planning Your Herb Garden The Right Way

Writen by Mary Hanna

This article is dedicated to planning a successful herb garden. If you have planted herb gardens in previous years this will help to revamp and refresh one already have.

Go to your Garden Center and see what herbs are available and suitable for your area. This is important if you are planning an outside herb garden. If you are planning an inside herb garden, since you control the atmosphere, you can choose whatever you like.

My suggestion here would be to select a theme for your herb garden. You can plant them for culinary, cosmetic, medicinal or fragrance use. Be realistic about your plants. Check your whole property to find the right spot. Look for sun or shade, type of soil, and how well the spot drains. These are all very import for picking the best place for your herb garden.

Once you have accomplished the above, pick your sunniest spot because herbs need a lot of sun (a good four top six hours daily). Be sure that the herb garden site is level and sheltered from wind. If your soil is a bit heavy ad lots of compost when preparing your site which will make the soil looser and help with drainage and texture.

Try to keep the herb garden close to the house to facilitate in picking the harvest and checking for troubles. If you can't find a suitable sunny spot plant them in a garden container that you can move around to follow the sun. (This movement is a bit time consuming but it pay off in the end).

Look at the rest of your gardens. Are they formal or informal? You will want your herb garden to complement your house and garden. Look in books or magazine to get some inspiration. If you are creating a formal herb garden you will need to plant in straight lines and geometric shapes framing them with low hedges and paths. A fountain, bench or topiary shrubs are almost always used as the main focal point. Arrange the layout around a central axis. Then plant one kind of herb in each block, go for bold color and texture. Be warned a formal garden is labor intensive and will be expensive.

In an informal herb garden you can plant more flowing, curved beds and walkways. Add flowers and shrubs for a really exciting look. This type of herb garden requires less initial work and will be easier and cheaper to maintain.

Now it's time to decide on which herbs to plant. The easy way is to make a list of the ones that follow your theme. Make up your wish list in three columns. Column one is the absolutely must have plants, Column two will be the ones that would be nice to have and Column three is oh well, not necessary. If you're just starting out do between 5-10 herbs, (depending on your space). This makes the herb gardening more manageable.

Know which herb plants or annual or perennial, and make a note of them so you won't forget. A small spiral notebook is a good place to make comments on the care of each of your herbs. Situate each plant according to height for maximum enjoyment of your herb garden.

Lastly keep them well feed and give them lots of love and you will a beautiful herb garden that is multi-purpose. You get to plant the herb garden, watch it flourish, and then you get to harvest it for whatever your purpose was: Culinary, Medicinal, Fragrance or Cosmetic.

Happy Planting!

Copyright © 2005 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and this resource box are unchanged.

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About the Author

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.GardeningLandscapingTips.com, http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com, and http://www.GourmetChefAtHome.com

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Drying Herbs

Writen by Doug Green

Now is the perfect time to harvest most herbs for fresh use as well as drying for winter use. This is extremely easy to do and quite a simple task. Select plants that are just ready to bloom as this is when the leaves contain the highest amounts of flavour. It is a really good idea to forcefully spray the plants daily with water to knock off any insects and clean the leaves of garden dirt or insect detritus. Never spray with chemicals before harvest.

Cut off the stems early in the morning before the leaves start growing (and releasing their oils naturally) to obtain the best flavours. Each plant can have up to one half of their leaves removed (cut the stems down by half). This pruning will give you ample herb leaves as well as stimulate the plant to produce more leaves. Naturally, this means you'll be able to get a second harvest later in the season.

I generally put all my stalks together and tie them with a shoelace or bit of string. Mine are all hung upside down from the ceiling in a warm spot (not over the air conditioning) so the leaves will dry without mildewing. Good air circulation is essential.

It may take several weeks and each herb's drying time will vary but the leaves will eventually become dry and crumbly to the touch. I generally put the herbs in a bag and knock them about to separate the leaves from the stems. Then I put the leaves in old glass sealer jars and store them in cool, dry spots while discarding the stems. You can get even more information about drying herbs right here.

Next winter, let me suggest you consider adding mint leaves to hot apple juice to get a pleasant reminder of summer flavours and fragrances.

Doug Green, award winning garden author of 7 published books answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.beginner-gardening.com/gardeningflowertips.html

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

A Few Iron Fencing Maintenance Tips

Writen by Gabriel J. Adams

Although iron fencing is some of the strongest fencing available (especially when compared to wood fencing), it can always use a little helping hand from its owner. In fact, a properly maintained wrought iron fence can last a hundred years or more!

Fight Rust With Finish

What attracts us to iron in the first place? Iron is known for its strength and ability to withstand the elements better than fencing made with other materials. But without sufficient coating, it can become vulnerable to rust from constant moisture. Morning dew, rain, and snow are the usual culprits of rust, but you can fight them off by coating your iron fence with a nice coat of rust-resistant finish.

Stick With the Solids

In addition to rust, iron fencing is vulnerable deep scratches, dents and chips. Rust-resistant finish does an excellent job of warding off surface scratches and chips, but offers little protection against deep scratches or chipping. And it certainly does nothing to protect against dents or bending. Your best defense against fence dents and bending is to resist using hollow iron.

Wash and Wax

To keep your iron fence looking new, give it a good washing with warm soapy water between seasons. Follow up with a wax and then oil the fence's joint, springs, latches, etc. with mineral oil. Steel wool can be used to sand away light scratches, while specially formulated paint will cover small holes. While painting, let each layer dry between one another. Otherwise you'll risk dripping (while wet) and flaking (while dry).

If you're not careful to quickly nip those little scratches or spots of rust in the bud, they'll increase in size and form noticeable holes before you know it - holes that will require even more maintenance than what's described above!

A Look At Garden Gazebos

Writen by Alison Cole

A garden gazebo is the perfect way to accent your garden. Imagine being able to walk along the path between the koi pond and the flowers, the hedges and the willow tree, pausing to rest on a bench inside a gazebo. Its shade will comfort you, and its architecture will add that special geometric touch to your garden, striking the balance between nature and humanity. No matter what the environment of your garden, there is a garden gazebo out there just waiting to be bought.

In creating a garden gazebo, first choose your material from wood, metal, or vinyl options. Wood is the most common choice, and for good reason: it goes with any natural environment. Wood is available in pine, cedar, and redwood. Pine is the softest wood, ages to a rich yellow, and complements surrounding evergreens. Cedar is higher in overall sturdiness, is less prone to rot, and ages to a gray-brown. American redwood is the darkest, longest-lasting wood. Other woods can be used, but those are the most common.

Metal gazebos come in cast aluminum or steel and wrought iron. Go with steel and wrought iron if you want your garden gazebo to add a lovely dark and long lasting effect. These gazebos are often open-roofed, and so are great for stocking with plants, climbers, and other materials, making for a lush shade that changes with the seasons. Vinyl comes in white or black. Just as with wood and metal gazebos, they come in a variety of shapes and styles. Get trellis walls for a cottage feeling.

For enhanced usability in harsher weather conditions, get an enclosed garden gazebo. These can be partially enclosed, with partitions and movable screens, or totally enclosed, with solid walls and tinted windows.

Whether looking to expand a large corporate garden, or just to complement a small neighborhood plot, a garden gazebo is an inviting structure for rest, meditation, or meeting up with other people to enjoy the weather.

Gazebos Info provides detailed information about spa, garden, patio, canopy, screened, metal, and vinyl gazebos, as well as gazebo plans and kits. Gazebos Info is the sister site of Awnings Web.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Birch Leaf Miner

Writen by Paul Burke

Appearance:

Generally speaking the first most obvious sign of this pest is browning and wilting of the foliage on your birch tree. The larvae cause this discolouration and distortion by feeding that create tunnels within the individual leaves. These tunnels first appear as a greenish colour but quickly turn to a grey, then eventually a brown. These tunnels contain the waste of the larvae and are blackish in colour. This waste is known as frass. The larvae are flat to aid them in their tunneling habits and are a greenish yellow in colouration. They also have four black spots on their underside at the front. By holding the leaves up to a light the eggs and larvae will appear as transparent spots.

Life Cycle:

Birch leaf miner will create 3-4 generations per year. The adult will emerge from the soil in May and June and will deposit their eggs in slits created in the surface of a newly developed leaf. The larvae consume the tissue situated between the upper and lower leaf surface. They will eventually eat their way through to the surface of the leaf and fall to the ground to pupate. The adults emerge again and continue the cycle. They will over-winter below the tree and emerge again in the spring.

Controlling the problem:

An infestation of birch leaf miner generally speaking will not kill a healthy mature tree. By defoliating the host tree they can however weaken it, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases. If you are using insecticides to control this pest, please be sure to follow all directions on the label before and while applying. By controlling the initial generation of birch leaf miner you can go a long way to minimize the damage caused by additional generations. Use a systemic insecticide before the buds open to prevent this pest from egg laying. You can also apply insecticides as the new leaves emerge.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca

Pond Liners

Writen by Eric Morris

Ponds are small water spaces that provide beauty and calm to their surroundings, whether large concrete constructions or small private gardens. Even the Romans, Egyptians and Chinese of the ancient world loved to decorate their gardens with attractive ponds.

The most important task while building a pond is to lay a Pond Liner, just like laying a foundation for a building. A natural lake or pond has dirt, rock and silt at its bottom. A Pond Liner helps prevent the pond water from penetrating the soil, making the soil silty.

Pond Liners come in different options. The first choice is between preformed and custom-made or flexible. Preformed liners are suitable for small garden ponds. Preformed Pond Liners are quick and easy to install. Flexible liners are suitable for medium-sized ponds. Flexible liners are made of natural materials like rubber and clay, as well as synthetics such as PVC liners.

Installing a preformed Pond Liner requires creating a hole suited to the space of the pond. But installing flexible liners requires checking whether any sharp objects will penetrate the liner.

Preformed Pond Liners made of plastic are strong and not likely to leak. They are difficult to fit, due to their varying shapes and depth sizes, and are suited to small ponds. Such ponds are usually expensive, with high delivery charges. Flexible liners include rubber products like butyl rubber, EPDM (ethylene propylene dyiene monomer) rubber, and clay like sodium bentonyte clay. Synthetic plastics include P.V.C. (polyvinyl chloride), polyethylene (a thermo plastic) and Ultra Guard (polymeric alloy).

The primary advantage of flexible Pond Liners is that they are easy to transport. They are not affected by limits of size or shape. The materials can be molded into the pond shape of your choice. It is easy to make adjustments. There is a variety of material to suit every need. The pond will look natural as it blends with the landscape.

Synthetic rubber is most versatile. Called EPDM, it is economical, durable and easy to install. And really flexible. Flexible plastic liners such as PVC and HDPE are available, but not as effective as rubber liners.

With the advent of garden pools and preformed pool liners, all the hassles of concrete and other raw material are saved. Heavy-duty Pond Liners are available with long-term guarantees, and sell for less than $1 per square foot. Large ponds require a large Pond Liner that is safe for fish and plant life, inexpensive, easy to install, and durable to last over 20 years. Polyethylene is suitable for such ponds.

Pond Liners are available in black, and U.V. protected. Many people install pre-liners to provide an insulating layer between the soil and Pond Liner. Ultimately, to select a Pond Liner, a number of criteria must be considered such as size, quality goals, budget, property value, and wildlife.

Pond Liners provides detailed information about pond liners, garden pond liners, preformed pond liners, rubber pond liners and more. Pond Liners is the sister site of Natural Waterfalls.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Flowers How To Buy Them When They Are Fresh

Writen by John Gibb

Flowers form the best gifts and it takes some time and consideration for selecting the right Flower for the right occasion. Buying Flowers is an Art like presenting them for that particular occasion. Due to the advancement of transport facilities and Cold Storage facilities it has become possible to get flowers from around the World to any other place in the World.

The Flowers that grow in one part of the World go to the other part of the World still looking fresh and fragrant. But there are occasions when the Flowers we buy get spoiled and shrunken sooner than expected completely spoiling the occasion for which they have been bought. So what went wrong? Was the flowers that seemed perfectly fresh at the Florist have lost their freshness before we reach our home.

In reality it is not always as easy to tell if the flowers you buy are as fresh as they look. Your problem becomes more as the Flowers don't come with a "best consumed before" date stamped on them. This makes you more confused so there really isn't a way to know how fresh they really are. It is equally not possible to say how long they will remain fresh.

You must be aware that the flowers that you find at the Florist shop have already been through quite a bit by the time they reach you. Usually Flower growers spend their day selling many of their beautiful Blooms directly to Consumers. At the end of the day when they have quite a bit of stock left over. These Flowers are bundled up and shipped off to auctions and wholesalers throughout the Country and often to other Countries.

They are sold at a discount, because they are no longer fresh. They are passed on from wholesalers to the local Florists who stock them in their coolers in hopes of selling them to their Customers in various arrangements. All these take time and when the time they are stocked in the Cooling Box are also added the Bouquet Flowers delivered to you from your local Florist, might already be anywhere from 3 to 5 days old and the chances of it lasting very long are slim.

The best and most exquisite bouquets come from using only the freshest of Flowers. If you want to purchase Flowers that are fresh, you have to eliminate the middlemen and try to buy from sources that are as close as possible to the Growers of the Flowers. When you buy blossoms direct from the Growers, they won't bloom into their full glory prematurely, giving you many more days of pleasure.

John Gibb is the owner of flower sources , For more information on flowers check out http://www.Flowers-resources2k.info

What You Should Know About Solar Greenhouses

Writen by Ken Wilssens

Although every greenhouse is a solar greenhouse to some extent, there are differences in the type of solar heating and lighting that you can use. The covering you use, whether it is fibreglass, glass or heavy plastic, traps the heat from the sun inside each day. The trick in having a successful greenhouse is learning how to store this solar heat to keep the temperature the same during the night. A traditional greenhouse captures the solar heat during the day, but it loses significant amounts of this heat at night.

One way of maintaining the heat during the night is to use what is called passive solar heating. This consists of collecting water in barrels. The water retains the heat and allows it to escape during the night and heat the greenhouse. Another way, which involves more expense, is to have a concrete wall or rocks that can supply the needed heat.

You can also revert to using electricity to power a heater during the night. If you use a heat pump, it will pump the stored heat from the water into the greenhouse, thus maintaining the humidity that the plants need. Without having humidity of some kind in addition to the heat, the plants may become dehydrated.

If you have your greenhouse attached to a building, you can consider having that wall covered with bricks. Those that use this system paint the bricks black so that they absorb the maximum heat from the sun during the day. Although this method does work well, it takes a lot of extra time getting the greenhouse set up.

Recent research has looked at using cheap chemical compounds called eutectics to maintain the solar heat in a greenhouse. These are salts that store the heat from the sun at a constant temperature for use during the nights and for cloudy days.

You do need to have a backup system for heating in greenhouse because you can't rely on receiving heat from the sun on a continuous basis.

For lots of helpful information on greenhouse humidification and related topics, visit The Greenhouses Guide at http://www.thegreenhousesguide.com.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Can Your Sundial Really Tell The Time

Writen by Hugh Harris-Evans

"I am a sundial, and I make a botch
Of what is done far better by a watch"

So wrote Hilaire Belloc, but is this really fair? Sundials are the earliest known form of time-keeping having been used for some five thousand years. The Greek historian Herodotus stated that sundials were first used by the Chaldeans and Sumerians in Babylonia which was part of the modern Iraq. They used vertical rods on their buildings and noted the position of the shadow to record the passing of the hours. The concept was developed by the Greeks and Romans who constructed various different shapes of dial to enable them to tell the time and the season of the year. Usually these were bowl-shaped dials with vertical or horizontal gnomons (shadow-casters) and hour lines marked in the hollow of the bowl. Over the years more elaborate designs were produced until the advent of accurate clocks when the function of the sundial became more decorative than as a reliable means of telling the time.

The question is often asked "Can a sundial really tell the correct time?" to which you will receive the Alice in Wonderland reply that it depends upon what you mean by "the correct time". Our clocks and watches work on the basis of there being exactly twenty-four hours between one day and the next but, because of the eliptical nature of the earth's orbit around the sun, the time shown on the sundial will vary according to the seasons. In February by the clock the sun is almost fifteen minutes slow, whereas during the spring and summer months it gains and loses between four and six minutes in two cycles. At the other extreme in November the sundial appears to be some seventeen minutes fast. In fact the sundial is accurate on only four days of the year, about April 15, June 14, September 2 and December 25. Some sundials include a table showing the deviation from "clock time" according to the date.

The time indicated by the sun will also vary with the location of the dial. The sun travels across the sky at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour so every degree of longditude represents a difference of four minutes from the standard meridian for the region. The angle of the gnomon also depends on the situation, so to set up your sundial correctly you need to know both the latitude and longditude of its location. For the United States and the United Kingdom this site can provide the information. The gnomon should be set at the angle in degrees which is equal to the latitude of your location. The sundial can then be fixed with the gnomon pointing to the Pole Star. There are various ways of achieving this, the easiest of which, is to use a compass adjusted for the magnetic variation. Further details are beyond the scope of this article, but for those interested look at this site.

If you have read this far you will have discovered that there is a great deal more to the sundial than a mere item of garden decoration. If this has piqued your interest in the subject, then you are not alone. There are Sundial Societies in countries around the world. The North American Sundial Society has details of its objects and activities on its website.

A number of sundial trails have been established. A good example is the Thames Sundial Trail in London, England. This site lists a number of other trails in countries all over the world but only two in the United States. However the North American Sundial Society has a complete list on its website.

Two rather different designs are shown here. The first, which is commonly referred to as a Human Sundial, uses the person's shadow to indicate the time. By standing in the appropriate box for the date the shadow will show the correct time. The second is a Digital Sundial which sounds like a contradiction in terms but in reality is just a rather clever design.

Many sundials have a motto inscribed on the face. Often these are rather serious in tone and of the "Tempus fugit" variety but you also find some written in a lighter vein. Here are a few of my favourites:

The shadow of my finger cast
Divides the future from the past

The clock the time may wrongly tell,
I never if the sun shines well

I stand amid the summer flowers
To tell the passage of the hours

And finally again from Hilaire Belloc:

I am a sundial, turned the wrong way round.
I cost my foolish mistress fifty pounds!

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Gardening To Stay Fit

Writen by Mary Hanna

Love to garden? Well here's good news. Gardening can get you in shape; call it backyard fitness.

You remember when you joined the gym and vowed to go three times a week. Or when you bought the treadmill knowing you would use it everyday. Well, that didn't happen, did it?

Work in the garden and on the lawn works the heart and other muscles just as effectively as other forms of exercise. Little did we know that pushing a hand mower burns more calories then an hour on the treadmill at 4 miles per hour. Digging and raking burn even more calories. Any amount of aerobic exercise will decrease your risk of heart disease. The risk of heart disease declines for each day of 30 minute yard work you perform.

Before you go out to your yard with you gardening gloves and hat, do some stretching to warm up your muscles for the job ahead. After stretching take a brisk 5 minute walk around your garden to spot where you will be working that day Check out exercise routines on websites and libraries or go to the bookstore.

You don't need fancy equipment to get warmed up. You can use a broom held behind you back and rotate your body left and right. Grasp a couple of soup cans and do some arm curls. If things were perfect, you should start conditioning about six weeks before the planting season. But if you didn't plan it that way, it's alright. Just do some stretching and do the yard work in small sections until you feel stronger.

To avoid overuse injuries, switch chores often. Start with weeding and then switch to digging in the dirt. Takes some breaks, the 30 minutes does not have to be continuous.

It is important to change positions frequently so you don't freeze up. When you're weeding kneel on a pad and then switch to a seated position. Don't bend over to work.

Make sure you have the right gear. Always wear sturdy shoes and garden gloves. I never work in the garden without a hat and good sunglasses. If you have a back problem wear a brace to avoid further injury. Spend a little extra time warming up an area that may be venerable.

Lift and carry correctly. When lifting, bend from your knees not your waist. This will keep you from a back injury. When carrying heavy loads like bags of soil, hold them close to your body and centered rather than out in front. If something is really heavy, rather than risk injury, use a wheel barrel.

It is most important is to stay hydrated. Don't wait until you feel thirsty, drink water constantly.

And lastly: don't overdo it. Pace yourself when you first begin yard work. Spread the yard work over a couple of days and your muscles will thank you.

Happy Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Cruising, Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.GardeningHerb.com http://www.CruiseTravelDirectory.com and http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com or contact her at mary@webmarketingreviews.com

Friday, February 20, 2009

The Benefits Of Organic Gardening

Writen by Laura Fox

Organic Gardening refers to the system in which plants are grown in an organic environment. According to the USDA regulations, those who are involved in the process of organic gardening are prohibited from using irradiation, sewage sludge or genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in organic production. This type of food production would be certified as organic farming or gardening.

Accordingly, the important aspects of organic gardening will include the following:

  • Those who engage in organic gardening or farming can't use synthetic or chemical fertilizers and pesticides.
  • There should be a systematic approach in organic gardening. This means that a system needs to be implemented. This system will describe the methodologies about sowing, production and reaping of plants.
  • Records must be also kept which will keep a track of the products till they are sold.
  • Buffer zones should be maintained so that there are no inadvertent contaminations from the gardens and the farms, which use the conventional method of farming or gardening.
Those involved in organic gardening understand the importance of crops, the soil, the pests and the insects as well as the interdependency of all these factors. Organic gardening helps to care and the nurture the very soil of the crops. Thus the benefits that we get are naturally grown flowers, trees and plants.

Organic gardening can also be certified by state organizations and private organizations, which have been accredited by the USDA. The farms and gardens, which are looking to certify themselves, have to submit their organic systems on an annual basis.

Based upon these systems inspectors will come and inspect their establishments and verify with the systems that they have submitted. All facilities are included in the inspection and this includes pest control method, livestock, feedstock for livestock, soil management programs etc.

The organically grown products are minimally processed to retain their natural freshness and nutritious value. However irradiation, synthetic and genetically engineered foods and products can't be used in organic farming or gardening.

The biggest advantage is that there are no chemicals and pesticides used. Hence there are no residues when we eat the fruits. There is nothing to wash off or fear like normal produce.

This means that we live a healthy life and we beget a healthy life for our children and the generations to come. As humans we want to lead a healthy life and this gives us a right to choose what foods we eat as well as how we get the foods.

Laura Fox makes it easy to learn organic gardening. To get started organic gardening and claim your free guide to organic gardening visit http://www.organicgardeningmagic.com now.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

10 Tips For Successful Rose Planting

Writen by Kathy Burns-Millyard

Planting roses isn't actually complicated, as long as you have some good advice and tips to start with...

1. Check with your local gardening center or florist for the best type of roses to grow in you climate. If you are a novice, you should look fo? disease resistant types of roses because they require a lot less maintenance.

2. When planting roses, you want to pick a spot that is well lit in the morning. You also want an area that is sunlit for at least 6 hours a day. Roses need a great deal of light if they are to grow properly. If you live in a really hot climate though, you'll probably get the best results by not planting your roses in direct sunlight.

3. Pick an area that has plenty of well drained soil. Great soil has a PH level where the amount of acid in the soil is at about 5.5-7.0. You can get a testing kit for your soil at any garden center.

4. Organic matter like manure or lime helps to nourish the roots of your roses. You should soak the roots in water or puddle clay for many minutes, and cut off any root's ends that are broken.

5. The first 3-4 weeks after planting your roses, you should water them often. Usually this is when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. Roses need a lot of hydration and food to remain healthy.

6. Four weeks after planting, you should start soaking the bed every 2 weeks or so. You should do this in the morning for the best results.

7. Begin fertilization approximately 3 months after planting. Use 3-6 inches of mulch to control the moisture, temperature, and to stops weeds from coming up. Mulch also helps to lock in the vital nutrients your roses need in order to remain healthy.

8. Planting in the Spring is the best.

9. You want to plant your roses in an area that is well circulated with air. Your roses will not grow in an enclosed or tight area.

10. Dig a hole that is two times bigger than the amount of space that your roses take up. It makes it easier to plant them and creates a spaced area for them to grow with freedom. Poor circulation for your roses can cause fungal diseases. Using a larger hole also makes it easier for you to pull them up later and pot them if you'd like.

© 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard and Garden-Source.com

This article is provided courtesy of http://www.Garden-Source.com - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.

How To Create A Wildflower Garden

Writen by Lesley Dietschy

In today's gardens often populated by geraniums, roses, and zinnias, wildflowers can provide a simple and graceful flair. Almost any garden or landscape can be beautified by their presence. Not only are wildflowers easy to grow but they possess a natural resistance to pests, disease, and harsh climates. They can survive in clay soil, nutrient poor soil, sandy soil, and practically no soil at all. Once established in their preferred habitat, wildflowers can survive on their own without pruning, weeding, primping, and little or no watering.

The easiest way to create and grow a wildflower garden is to sow the seeds (to plant seeds by scattering) on well-prepped ground where they will not be in competition with weeds and grasses. The basic steps are as follows:

1. Decide when to plant (sow) the seeds. Wildflower seeds like warm soil and they can be planted in either spring or fall, depending on the species and where you live. They typically germinate best with a soil temperature of 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Therefore, if you live in zones 1-6 you should plant in the spring and if you live in zones 7-11 you should plant in the fall. For best results, follow the instructions on the seed packet or ask your local nursery.

2. Choose a sunny, well-drained gardening site. Most wildflowers need at least five to eight hours of sunlight a day and well-drained soil.

3. Prepare the ground by removing any existing vegetation and/or weeds.

4. Plant (sow) the seeds. Before spreading, mix the seeds in a bucket with fine-grade builder's sand. Use four parts sand to one part seed. This will help to ensure even coverage. Spread the seeds in a sweeping motion either by hand or by using a handheld broadcast seeder.

5. Tap in the seeds. A seed that is buried too deep will not germinate. To ensure good contact between the seeds and the ground, walk over the seedbed and tap it down with your foot or use the head of a garden rake.

6. Water seeds. Wildflower seeds need water to germinate. Water frequently until the plants grow 1 to 2 inches tall. After that, only water the wildflowers if they look wilted or stressed.

7. Pull weeds. If weeds grow in the midst of your wildflower garden, pull them by hand before they have a chance to flower and populate. If your wildflowers grow thickly, they will eventually choke out most weeds.

The types of wildflowers or native plants you can grow basically depend on the characteristics of your garden and environment. Typically, it's easier to grow native wildflowers that are already adapted to the climate and growing conditions in their native range. However, there are wildflowers that will survive in virtually any setting and adaptable enough to grow in many regions of the country. A few of the most popular wildflowers that grow in North America are Texas Bluebonnets, Indian Paintbrush, Butterfly Weed, Autumn Sage, Goldenrod, Sunflower, Black-eyed Susan, Winecup, and the California Poppy.

Wildflower seeds or plants can be purchased from a local nursery, mail order, or on the internet. Normally, wildflower seed mixes contain seeds of both annual and perennial plants. This is done so that the annuals grow rapidly and cover the ground, while the perennial plants are taking time to get established.

Growing wildflowers from seeds can be more economical than buying mature plants. However, one disadvantage of growing wildflowers from seeds is that many native plants require a long time to germinate and mature. Also, the seeds of some species require pretreatment before they can be planted. This process involves stratification, which is placing seeds in a refrigerated storage in a non-soil growing medium for one to two months and sometimes longer. So, if you are not proficient at growing plants from seed, it may be best to start your wildflower garden by purchasing a few mature plants from a reputable nursery.

Whether adding wildflowers to your existing garden or creating a little garden unto itself, it can be a lot of fun to experiment with seeds and mature plants and learn which species adapts the best to your garden. To further research wildflowers, visit a few of the wildflower organizations that can be found on the internet.

Lesley Dietschy is a freelance writer and the creator/editor of The Home Decor Exchange and the Home & Garden Exchange. The Home Decor Exchange is a popular home and garden website featuring resources, articles, decorating pictures, free projects, and a shopping marketplace. The Home & Garden Exchange website is a link exchange program and directory dedicated to the home and garden industry, as well as offering free website content and promotional ideas. Please visit both websites for all of your home, garden, and website needs.

http://www.HomeDecorExchange.com

http://www.HomeGardenExchange.com

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

The Basic Principles Of Landscape Design

Writen by Steve Boulden

Whether you plan to "borrow ideas" or plan on creating your own landscaping design, you should have at the very least a basic understanding of the principles of landscape design.

Don't feel that you have to apply every principle to every part of your plan. Just having an understanding of these principles can help you generate ideas and increase your creativity.

Great landscaping lies in the eyes of the its creator. So, while the principles of landscape design are great guidelines to follow, don't feel like they're the "have to rules" of landscaping. Abstract and creativity are allowed.

Unity should be one of your main goals in your design. It may be better understood and applied as consistency and repetition. Repetition creates unity by repeating alike elements like plants, plant groups, or decor throughout the landscape. Consistency creates unity in the sense that some or all of the different elements of the landscape fit together to create a whole.

Unity can be created by the consistency of character of elements in the design. By character, I mean the size, height, texture, color schemes, etc. of different elements.

A good example would be in the use of accent rocks and boulders. If you've ever seen a landscape design that had several different colors and sizes of boulders, then you've seen that unity wasn't created by this particular element.

This is just one example but the principle applies to all other elements such as groups of plants and materials.

A simple way to create unity in your landscape is by creating theme gardens. Creating a theme garden is easier when it's related to something you're interested in or have a passion for.

If you're interested in butterflies for instance, you could create a theme using plants that attract butterflies as well as using statues, ornaments, and other decor that are related to butterflies.

Unity should be expressed through at least one element in your landscape and preferably more. Using elements to express a main idea through consistent style and a specific theme is what creates harmony.

Simplicity is actually one of the principles in design and art. It's one of the best guidelines you can follow as a beginner or do it yourselfer. Just keep things simple to begin with. You can do more later.

Simplicity in planting, for instance, would be to pick two or three colors and repeat them throughout the garden or landscape. Keeping decor to a minimum and within a specific theme as well as keeping hardscapes such as boulders consistent is also practicing simplicity.

Balance in design is just as the word implies. A sense of equality. There are basically two types of balance in landscape design. Symmetrical and Asymmetrical.

Symmetrical balance is where there are more or less equally spaced matching elements, areas, and shapes of the garden design. With a garden equally divided, both sides could share all or part of the same shape, form, plant height, plant groupings, colors, bed shapes, theme, etc.

You may remember creating something like this when you were a kid in art class at school. Where you take a piece of paper, splash paint on it, fold it in half, unfold it, and then it magically creates an interesting symmetrical design. So symmetrical balance or design is somewhat of a mirror image or reflection.

Asymmetrical balance on the other hand is one of the principles of landscape design that's a little more complex. While textures, forms, colors, etc. may remain constant to create some unity, shapes and hardscapes may be more random. This form of balance often has separate or different themes with each having an equal but different type of attraction.

Asymmetrical may be better understood as actually being unbalanced, abstract, or free form while still creating unity and balance through the repetition of some elements.

A good example of this would be where bed shapes or paths differ on both sides of the landscape dividing line while still sharing some of the same elements and plants. One side could be curved with a sense of flow while the other side is straight, direct, hard, and completely opposite. Again, unity and balance will be created through other elements.

Contrast can be very interesting and this type of form can create a neat contrast. Flowing lines are pleasing to the eye but the bold contrast of a curve combined with a straight line can be very interesting.

Asymmetrical balance isn't dependant on the shape of your garden. It can be but generally it's not.

An example might be where one side of the garden is mostly large shade trees while the other side is predominately a lower growing flower garden or even a mix of both examples. Like I stated earlier, the landscaping can be abstract while still maintaining unity through other elements such as rocks, plants, and decor.

Contrast and harmony can also be achieved using plants. Fine foliage verses coarser foliage, round leaves verses spiked leaves as well as color compliments and contrasts.

Plant height, color, and texture may be varied from one area to the next but each area should stay consistent within its own theme.

You'll hear me talk about "themes" a lot. Many successful do it yourself designs follow a basic theme to achieve most of the principles of landscape design described on this page. It's a simple starting point for do it yourselfers that can be added to later.

Color adds the dimension of real life and interest to the landscape. Bright colors like reds, yellows and oranges seem to advance toward you and can actually make an object seem closer to you. Cool colors like greens, blues, and pastels seem to move away from you and can make an object seem farther from you.

Grays, blacks, and whites are considered neutral colors and are best used in the background with bright colors in the foreground. However, to increase depth in a landscape, you can use dark and coarse textured plants in the foreground and use fine textured and light colored plants in the background.

Colors can also be used to direct your attention to a specific area of the garden. A bright display among cooler colors would naturally catch the eye.

Natural transition can be applied to avoid radical or abrupt changes in your landscape design. Transition is basically gradual change. It can best be illustrated in terms of plant height or color but can also be applied to all elements in the landscape including but not limited to textures, foliage shape or size, and the size and shape of different elements.

In other words transition can be achieved by the gradual, ascending or descending, arrangement of different elements with varying textures, forms, colors, or sizes.

An example of a good transition would be a stair step effect from large trees to medium trees to shrubs to bedding plants. This example is where a little knowledge of proper plant selection would come in handy.

Transition is one of the principles of landscape design that can be used to "create illusions" in the landscape. For example a transition from taller to shorter plants can give a sense of depth and distance (like in a painting), making the garden seem larger than it really is. A transition from shorter to taller plants could be used to frame a focal point to make it stand out and seem closer than it really is.

Line is of the more structural principles of landscape design. It can mostly be related to the way beds, walkways, and entryways move and flow.

Straight lines are forceful and direct while curvy lines have a more natural, gentle, flowing effect.

Proportion simply refers to the size of elements in relation to each other. Of all the principles of landscape design, this one is quite obvious but still requires a little thought and planning. Most of the elements in landscape design can be intentionally planned to meet the proper proportions.

For instance if you are creating a small courtyard garden, an enormous seven foot garden statue placed in the center would be way out of proportion and a little tacky to say the least. Or a small four foot waterfall and pond placed in the center of a large open yard would get lost in the expanse.

Don't misunderstand this to mean that if you have a large yard you can't have smaller features or garden decor. Proportion is relative and elements can be scaled to fit by creating different rooms in the garden. The goal is to create a pleasing relationship among the three dimensions of length, breadth, and depth or height.

A small water feature can be proportionate if placed in a corner or on the edge of a large area and becomes a focal point of the larger area while creating its own distinct atmosphere. An entire room, sitting area, or theme can be created around it. Other rooms and themes can be created as well. See small gardens for ideas on creating rooms and creating illusions.

Also, special consideration and study should be given to proper plant selection to avoid using plants that are out of proportion.

Repetition is directly related to unity. Its good to have a variety of elements and forms in the garden but repeating these elements gives variety expression.

Unity is achieved by repeating objects or elements that are alike. Too many unrelated objects can make the garden look cluttered and unplanned.

There's a fine line here. It's possible that too much of one element can make a garden or landscape feel uninteresting, boring and monotonous.

However, unity can still be created by using several different elements repeatedly. This in turn keeps the garden interesting.

Written by Steve Boulden. Steve is the owner and chief designer for S&S Designed Landscaping in Carlsbad, NM. He is also the creator of The Landscape Design Site which offers free professional landscaping advice, tips, plans, and ideas to do it yourselfers and homeowners. For more free landscaping and garden ideas, visit his site at: http://www.the-landscape-design-site.com

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

The Best Types Of Fish For Your Garden Pond

Writen by Anne Clarke

There are many reasons as to why you might want to have fish in your garden pond – they add beauty, color, and interest to your garden and act as a sort of outdoor "pet." But there are other good reasons for putting fish in your pond, as well. For one, fish will eat pesky mosquitoes as well as pond algae. Overall, pond fish are also fairly easy to care for, too.

Now that I have convinced you to get some fish for your garden pond, let us go over a few types of popular outdoor pond fish – most outdoor pond fish are freshwater-coldwater types.

Comet goldfish

This type of goldfish is going to be able to handle varied conditions in your pond – this includes varied conditions due to weather, as well as conditions due to your inexperience with pond fish. Comet fish can endure variations in both temperature and water quality. Comet goldfish are distinguishable by their long single tails – like a comet. They come in a variety of colors, including red and white. Also, comet goldfish tend to be fairly inexpensive. Chances are, your comet gold fish will live for 14 years and grow up to 10 inches long.

Shubunkin goldfish (aka calico goldfish)

This is a very interesting goldfish – like a common goldfish, shubunkin goldfish have long bodies and a single tail, but they are brightly colored in a mix of fantastic colors… red, brown, blue, yellow, and violet. They are also distinguished by black spots on their bodies and tails. This is a very tough goldfish type. Make sure that your pond has plenty of plants and open areas for swimming. If you have shubunkin goldfish, do not put telescope goldfish or bubble eye goldfish (and other slow swimming fish) in with them – they might end up starving because shubunkin goldfish will get to the food first… and they do not share. Rather, you should get your shubunkins a koi or two as buddies.

Koi

Koi range from very inexpensive to very expensive – there is quite a variety as to the type and quality of koi. By quality, I am referring to the color and patterns displayed on the koi's scales. As abovementioned, koi can cohabitate with other goldfish like comets and shubunkins very well. Koi can grow to be several feet long, and they can live from 25-50 years! Some people think that koi are gold fish, but they are only distant cousins to the goldfish – they are actually much more closely related to the common carp. While koi can handle a wide range of temperatures, as sudden change in temperature can affect them adversely. Koi will get along with other tropical fish, as well.

Whichever type of fish that you decide to get for your pond, be sure that you get ones that will cohabitate well and ones that are durable (like the abovementioned types of fish). Also make sure that you do not try to stick too many fish in too small of a pond. Consider having only one inch of fish per gallon of pond water. A 10 foot by 10 foot pond can typically support about 20 five inch fish… This math equation might be a bit too much – a general rule of thumb is to start with just a few, and go from there. Remember that your fish will grow!

Just a note: If you are new to having fish in your pond, you may want to avoid fantail varieties – these are not quite as durable as other types of goldfish.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on fish and ponds, please visit Pond Filters.

Tomatoes History Origin Facts Or Fiction

Writen by Kirk Gordon

A tomato importer, John Nix, decided to challenge the law after scrutinizing the Tariff Act. His case relied on the fact that tomatoes were a fruit and not vegetable, therefore, it should not be subjected to the Tariff Act. Nix's objections brought the case to the Supreme Court in 1893. Although Nix had a solid case, the Supreme Court rejected the botanical facts and continued to refer to tomatoes as a vegetable.

Plant family
Tomatoes belong to the genus Lycopersicon, while potatoes belong to the genus Solanum; Both of which belongs to the same "flowering plant family" solanaceae. The similarities in leaves and flowers justifies this taxonomic grouping.

The UK - Introduction of the tomato
When the tomato plant was first introduced into the UK, some areas were not willing to consume the fruit because they were considered poisonous. Other plants that were poisonous, and in the same family as the tomato, such as the henbane, mandrake and the deadly nightshade were reasons to be concerned.

The deadly nightshade (Atropus belladonna), in particular, resembled the tomato plant the most, and was used as a hallucinogenic drug, as well as for cosmetic purposes in various parts of Europe. In Latin, the name "belladonna"; literally means "beautiful woman." The women in medieval courts would apply drop of deadly nightshade extract to their eyes, dilating their pupils, a fashionable statement at the time.

When the deadly nightshade was taken for it's hallucinogenic properties, the consumer would experience visuals and a feeling of flying or weightlessness. German folklore suggests it was also used in witchcraft to evoke werewolves, a practice know as lycanthropy. The common name for tomatoes in Germany translates to "Wolf peach," which was simply another reason for Europeans to avoid the plant.

North America - Introduction of the tomato
Tomato plants were transported by colonists from Britain to North America. The plants were most valued for removing pustule (Pimples, Blisters - Pus filled, inflamed skin). The inventor of peanut butter, George Washington Carver, strongly urged his poor Alabama neighbors to consume tomatoes because of their unhealthy diet. However, he had little success convincing them that the plants was edible.

Early efforts by merchants to sell tomatoes were not very successful. It is said that the fruit was brought to the liberal hamlet of Salem, Mass. in 1802 by a painter who also found it difficult persuading people to try the fruit. New Orleans cuisine was reported to have used tomatoes by 1812, however, doubts about the fruit lingered in some areas.

It's thought that doubts about the plant's edibility was laid to rest, when Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson announced that he will consume a bushel of tomatoes in front of the Boston courthouse at noon on September 26, 1820. Thousands of spectators turned out to watch the man commit suicide (At least, so they thought) by consuming the poisonous fruit. It is said that spectators were shocked when they realized the Colonel will survive after consuming numerous tomatoes. This story is from an old farm journal and may not be very reliable, however, it's quite entertaining.

Tomato popularity on the rise
Throughout the western world, tomatoes began to grow in popularity. In the 1820s, several cookbooks included recipes which required or called for tomatoes. Tomatoes were sold by the dozens in Boston's Quincy Market in 1835. In Thomas Bridgeman seed catalogue, 4 varieties of tomatoes were listed: Cherry, Pear, Large Yellow and Large Squash.

Bruist, a seed merchant commented on the tomato in 1858 - "In taking retrospect of the last eighteen years, there is no vegetable on the catalogue that has obtained such popularity in so short a period as the one now under consideration. In 1828-29, it was almost detested; in ten years almost every variety of pill and panacea was extract of tomato. It now occupies as great a surface of ground as cabbage, and is cultivated the length and breadth of the country." - www.heirloomseeds.com

That year, Bruits had eight cultivatars listed in his catalogue. A few years later, in 1863, a popular seed catalogue had 23 cultivars listed. One of the listed cultivars was Trophy, the first modern-looking, large, red, smooth-skinned variety which was sold for $5.00 for a packet of 20 seeds.

Large scale breeding for desirable traits became common in the 1870s in both the US and UK. In fact, by the 1880s several hundred cultivars had been named and it was clear that tomato had grown on the western culture. According to a study conducted at Michigan Agricultural College in the late 1880s, 171 of the named cultivars represented only 61 truly unique varieties, many of which were only marginally different.

Heirloom varieties
Although Central American is thought to be the center of domestication, throughout Europe and later in North America, further domestication occurred on a more intense level. Eastern Europe appeared to produce large numbers of high quality varieties. Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants which tend to become genetically homozygous after many generations. Tomatoes will rarely cross breed and usually produce plants will similar characteristics as the parents.

Because of tomatoes natural breeding process, early cultivars did not change much and were kept in a family or community for a long time, hence the name heirlooms. There are cultivars that dates back to over one hundred years that are still produced today. Most heirloom varieties are different in color, size and shape. Some varieties are black, red with black shoulders, dark purple, rainbow and green. In terms of size, some are the size of a cherry to larger varieties weighing over 2 lb.

Heirlooms - a story
Some heirloom varieties have interesting histories as well; at least I think so. Lets talk about the story of a heirloom name Mortgage Lifter. A radiator repair shop owner, Charlie, experienced hard times, as did much of the nation through the Great Depression. Because of financial reasons, most people abandoned their cars and Ol Charlie's business too a hard hit. He decided to use his four largest fruit producing tomato plants to cross breed repeatedly with each other to create a plant that produced two pounds of fruits.

Claming that his plants could feed a family of six, Charlie peddled the crops for a dollar per plant. Within four years, Charlie generated enough money to pay off the $4,000 dollars mortgage on his home, which led to the heirloom name "Mortgage Lifter."

Heirlooms - names & origins
In general, the names of heirloom varieties links directly to their history. For example, the Baptiste family in Remis, Fance cultivated the First Pick variety. Picardy's history also dates back to France (1890). Besser arrived from the Freiburg section of Germany, while Schellenburg's Favorite came from the Schellenburg family near Manheim, Germany.

Elbe was cultivated in 1889 near the Elbe River in Germany. Since the 1870s, the Amish in Pennsylvania cultivated the Amish Paste variety. Brandywine was also cultivated by Amish farmers near Brandywine Creek in Chester County Pennsylvania in 1885. The hills of Virginia is thought to be the origin of the Hillbilly variety. Old Virginia was cultivated in Virginia as well in the early 1900s. In 1953 Campbell Soup Co., introduced the Ace variety which is still popular for canning. On Edgar Allan Poe's estate, a cultivar found growing there bears his mother's maiden name, Hopkins.

Please bear in mind that these heirloom stories may be true or false, in part or whole, and may be inaccurate or exaggerated.

This article is courtest of HydroponicSearch.com - The Agriculture & Gardening Search Engine.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Crape Myrtle Hopi

Writen by Alan Summers

The most winter hardy Crape Myrtle of all.
Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia) are known to be the longest blooming deciduous trees in existence, creating extended periods of striking summer color. This, combined with their alluring fall foliage and drought resistance, has made Crape Myrtles a favorite in both formal and informal landscapes throughout the south.

Crape Myrtles are native to Asia and were introduced to England and the U.S. during the 18th century. Since that time, extensive breeding of Crape Myrtles has resulted in a wide assortment of varieties from ground covers only two feet tall, to shrubs of all heights, to trees almost forty feet tall. The dwarf varieties of Crape Myrtles are allowing gardeners with smaller yards to enjoy these beautiful plants. Winter hardiness and summer mildew resistance have also been improved, allowing gardeners farther north to enjoy Crape Myrtles' fabulous summer display. Finally the exfoliating bark has been much improved. This week we are featuring 'Hopi' - in our experience the hardiest of all the Crape Myrtles.

'Hopi,' is one of several Crape Myrtles developed by the National Arboretum in Washington D.C. - all have been given Native American Indian tribe names. 'Hopi' brings color, texture and interest to the garden in several ways. From mid-summer into the fall, 'Hopi' will bloom with beautiful, medium pink flowers that have the crepe-paper look that Crape Myrtles are known for. The blooms will reach six to seven inches long, beginning relatively early in the season and go on for about 100 days. 'Hopi' has mildew-resistant dark green foliage that will turn to a reddish orange in the fall. It also has grayish-brown bark that will exfoliate with age and looks striking in the winter garden.

Planting and Care
'Hopi' is a compact cultivar, reaching just seven to ten feet tall and six feet wide. It can be grown as a small tree or a large shrub. 'Hopi' can be pruned easily to fit into smaller spaces, if needed. Grow several together to form a hedge, just one as a specimen, or in a container on a patio or porch.

  • Prefers full sun in an area with good air circulation and good soil drainage.
  • Disease and mildew resistant.
  • Water regularly until established.
  • Hardy in Zones 6-9 (protect the first winter in Zone 6).
  • Fertilize with Plant-Tone and Kelp Meal in early spring.
  • When necessary, prune in spring just as the new leaves emerge.
  • To view Crape Myrtle 'Hopi' visit the Carroll Gardens website.

    Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

    Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

    Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

    Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.

    How To Make A Simple Homemade Aeroponics System

    Writen by Jason Willkomm

    The main problem I have always had with building a homemade aeroponics system is the clogging spray nozzles. I was in a hydroponics supply store the other day when it occurred to me the aeroponics system I was looking at did not use any spray heads. As I looked over the new hydroponic gardening system, I marveled at how simple the design really was. With the right pump and correct assembly, the following homemade aeroponics system is relatively problem free.

    There are four main parts to this simple system. There is a 20 gallon (75 liter) reservoir. There are several channels 4 or 6 inches in diameter and several feet long. Every 6 or 8 inches there is a hole drilled into the channel to accomodate a plant. The channels are pitched to allow drainage back to the reservoir. Next is a 1/2 inch line, run down the center of each channel and capped at the end. All the lines are connected at the other end by a manifold. Finally, the manifold attaches to a pump. At any point along the 1/2 line where spray is desired a 1/16 inch drill bit is used to cleanly make a small hole (usually one between each plant site).

    First, 1/2 inch PVC is cut to length and capped at one end. Spray locations are marked and drilled into the 1/2 inch PVC. A 1/2 inch line is run through the length of each channel, which is made from 4 or 6 inch PVC. The line is held in place by drilling two small holes and fastening a zip tie every few feet.

    One end of each channel will have to be sealed with an end cap. The other end may be sealed or left open, depending on how drainage back to the reservoir is to be accomplished. 2 1/2 or 3 inch holes are cut every 6 to 8 inches in the channel to accomodate netted pots (or other planting containers).

    At one end of the homemade aeroponics system, the 1/2 inch lines elbow out of their channels and are joined together by a series of "T" fittings. This is known as the manifold. One end of the manifold is left open to connect to the pump. Your pump may be an external pump or you may use a submersible pump. Either way, the pump needs to be able to deliver a water pressure of 45 to 60 psi to each of the 1/2 inch lines coming from the manifold.

    Finally, any large, cheap, plastic storage tote may be used for the nutrient reservoir. A homemade aeroponics system with 24 to 36 plant sites would require a 20 gallon (75 liter) reservoir. It is always best to choose a dark tote, to keep as much light from the nutrient reservoir as possible. This will prevent algae growth and therefore help prevent fungus gnats. Whenever constructing a homemade hydroponics system you should always use PVC, and not CPVC. CPVC is known to slowly leach harmful chemicals. To prevent leaks, be sure to use PVC cleaner on all parts BEFORE you apply PVC glue and join the parts.

    With systems becoming this simple, it is no surprise many people are interested in the faster growth rates aeroponics has to offer.

    Bonus- learn how to make an aeroponics cloner http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/homemade-aeroponics.html

    Sunday, February 15, 2009

    Online Garden Seed Exchanges

    Writen by Jill Dow

    If you've been gardening for any length of time you have probably realized a couple of things.

    1: Gardening can be quite expensive
    2: Finding the plants you really want can be a daunting task.

    If you're anything like me, you enjoy making changes to your gardens on pretty much a yearly basis. I call this "puttering". I'm always adding, moving, and redesigning. After all, what good is puttering in the garden if there's little to do? While this is good therapy and for many like myself the ultimate form of relaxation mixed with exercise, it can cost a bundle!

    I'll remove a section of garden with a brilliant new garden design in mind and head off to the local garden stores, only to find they have nothing I wanted. In the past I've settled for what was to be had, only to find myself not happy with it next year and the "puttering" begins again.

    Then I discovered……….. ONLINE SEED EXCHANGES!!!!!

    Online seed exchanges are simple online forums where gardeners can post notices of excess seed they have and are willing to exchange for what you have. You can also post requests for seed you'd like. This is a remarkable service! It costs you nothing but a few cents postage to find the garden seed you've been looking for and to share your seed with other gardeners. I'm always thrilled to acquire seed in late fall and propagate them in winter so the plants are ready for next springs puttering season.

    Here are some of the best online seed exchanges.

    The Garden Web Seed Exchange –
    http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/exseed/

    Emily Compost Seed Exchange –
    http://www.emilycompost.com/seed_exchange.htm

    The Garden Helper Seed Exchange –
    http://www.thegardenhelper.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/forum/8.html

    Happy puttering!

    For more information on growing bulbs and seeds see http://www.bulbandseed.com

    Saturday, February 14, 2009

    Shrubs The Way I Like It

    Writen by Khieng Chho

    Of recent times, the popularity of this pint-sized horticultural woody plant has been growing in leaps and bounds. People who wish to be in touch with their inner side and Mother Nature prefer taking care of shrubs rather than other types of plants because generally cuter and easier to transfer to different locations.

    There are a huge variety of plants that can be classified as shrubs or trees, depending on their growing conditions. So don't be confused when a plant shop owner offers you something that you initially thought was a tree. On the other hand, minute-sized plants like lavender and periwinkle are frequently referred to as subshrubs. Shrubs can also be deciduous or evergreen.

    Glossary for Shrub Clubs
    Bush – a plant that is also referred to as shrub in some cases Shrubbery – A part of a garden or park where shrubs are cultivated; if the shrubs are clipped as topiary, these plants would tend to grow dense foliage and small leafy branches that are bunched together Shrubland – used to describe any natural plant community where shubs reign in abundance

    Shrub Pruning
    Pruning is required when taking care of shrubs or plants whenever you plan to transfer them to another area. If you don't prune your shrubs before digging them out, they'll lose their roots and die.

    When you subject shrubs to renewal pruning, results are more often than not favorable and hard cutting them back to their stool-like origins may even lead to longer new stems known as canes.

    Selective pruning however is best for other shrubs if you wish to reveal more of the plants' structure and character.

    Always consult an expert to know the best way to prune your shrubs.

    Shrub Buying Tips
    There are many places that you can buy shrubs – nurseries, malls and even grocery shops. But the truly best place to purchase shrubs are from your local nurseries as they're often the ones with the best stock of shrubs in the best of conditions. Nurseries are also often the ones who'll be able to better assist you if it's your first time to take care of shrubs.

    Ball and Burlap Plants – Evergreen shrubs are often sold wrapped in burlap and their roots contained in a ball of soil; the way they're packaged keeps the plant from drying out.

    Don't life a ball and burlap plant by its trunk or main stem because the weight of the soil ball could either cause some damage to the shrub's roots or worse, cause the two to break apart. Always lift it by its wrapped base when you'll bring it to the cashier counter.

    The best choice of shrubs to buy are younger and well-rooted plants. Older ones tend to have spiral roots and will not grow as well as the younger plants when finally transferred to their permanent setting. For that matter, avoid purchasing any shrub that has spent too long cooped up in room temperature as these plants are already dessicated or damaged from lack of sunlight.

    Choose shrubs that are perfectly suited to your town's weather so that they'll last longer and be easier to take care of.

    If you plan to buy bare root shrubs, always select the completely dormant ones for easier transportation. Furthermore, smaller bare root shrubs are naturally easier to transplant than the larger ones and less expensive as well.

    Khieng 'Ken' Chho - Online Shrub Resources. For more, visit Ken's website: http://shrubs.wicwoc.com/

    The Difference Between Large And Small Ponds

    Writen by Brett Fogle

    If you think that a large pond is simply a small pond that "grew up", you're in for some pond maintenance problems. Let's start off my defining the terms that we'll be using here. A large pond is anything over 1,000 gallons (5,000 liters). A pond that holds over 4,000 gallons (20,000 liters) is a very large pond.

    Large ponds require a whole different level of financial and time committment than small ponds do. You'll need larger and more efficient pumps and filters as well as the additional plumbing that those devices require. You'll probably also spend a lot more for plants and fish as well as higher maintenance costs for those plants and fish.

    Your building and maintenance costs are dependant, to a great extent, on how deep your pond is. A 6' deep pond, for example, calls for a large and highly-specialized biofilter which uses a lot of electricity and requires a pretty hefty chunk of space for installation. You'll need extra UV power and some sophisticated plumbing including bottom drains, skimmers, valves, and the like.

    Of course, you always have the option of letting your pond go "au natural" and develop into a self-maintaining ecosystem just like a real pond. If that's your goal, don't go for a 6' depth. Natural ponds will be more cloudy than a filtered pond and it's likely that you'll never see your fish!

    Even a natural pond will require some help from you before mother nature kicks in. You'll still need to condition the water, and remove chlorine, before fish are introduced. You'll also want to have lots of plants both for natural shelter and temperature regulation as well as for their oxygen-generating characteristics.

    If your pond takes root and begins to develop naturally then you'll actually end up saving quite a bit of money on fish food. A natural pond generates and attracts a lot of natural food sources and it's likely that you will never have to feed your fish at all.

    Don't skimp on testing just because your pond is developing naturally. You still have threats of fertilizer and pesticide runoff entering your pond, and you still need to worry about keeping oxygen levels up and water temperatures down. You'll also want to examine your fish periodically for signs of parasite infestation.

    Keeping a large pond can require an inordinate amount of time and money. My best advice is not to build one unless you are willing to do your part in keeping it.

    **************************************************
    Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
    other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
    and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
    newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
    9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
    'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
    **************************************************

    Friday, February 13, 2009

    Adirondack Chair Cushionscomfort And Style

    Writen by Jennifer Akre

    Once you've chosen the right Adirondack furniture for your outdoor area, you'll want to enhance its comfort and beauty with cushions. Not only will cushions make your seating more comfortable, but the patterns in your Adirondack furniture cushions will be one of the focal points of your décor in your outdoor room.

    There are a wide variety of Adirondack chair cushions available ready made. You can choose from solids, stripes plaids and florals. Most come in standard sizes that will fit many patio furniture styles. Some patio furniture cushions are reversible, as well, allowing you to have two different looks with the same cushions. Choose patterns that complement the style of your furniture and the overall style of the room, as well as ones that complement the colors in your outdoor room.

    Ready made Adirondack chair cushions are typically sewn from weatherproof or weather resistant fabrics, so that they don't have to be brought in when it rains. However, it's critical to check whether or not your fabric is waterproof before you buy. Not all Adirondack chair cushions are designed to be left out in the weather.

    If you want to create custom Adirondack furniture cushions so that they will match with other portions of your décor, you can consider making your cushions or having them made by a seamstress. If your chosen fabric is not weather resistant, consider having the cushions laminated after they're completed. This will allow you to simply wipe off spills with a damp rag, and will keep the patio furniture cushions protected from the weather. Laminating your cushions will cost you a bit more, but it's well worth the money, considering that it makes your fabric choices virtually limitless, and that it protects your cushions for a lifetime.

    Adirondack chair cushions are an important choice in your outdoor décor. Choose wisely so that your outdoor room will be a beautiful reflection of your outdoor style.

    Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous home and patio decor websites, makes it easy to find quality Adirondack Chair Cushions and Adirondack Chairs Learn how to decorate your patio and garden in style - click the following link =>http://www.eAdirondackStyle.com

    Why Patio Benches Are A Great Place To Relax And Enjoy

    Writen by Jennifer Akre

    Having an outdoor patio offers the opportunity and place to sit outdoors where you can relax alone on a lazy Saturday morning or enjoy a barbecue with family and friends. To enhance a patio while providing additional seating, more and more people are turning to patio benches. Although traditional patio furniture is still nice, patio benches do not take up as much room, they can easily be moved from the patio to the lawn, and many designs on the market feature compartments underneath a padded seat for storage.

    With redwood patio benches, you have a nice splash of warm color and a bench that will last for years. Redwood benches come in a number of styles, some with slatted backs and armrests and others simply a bench with a padded seat cushion. Regardless, by choosing a redwood patio bench that has been built with top craftsmanship, you can be sure it will be strong and comfortable.

    Teak patio benches are considered a top choice since this particular wood is the best for facing outdoor elements. With teak, you can choose from several colors that start from a soft golden blonde to a rich caramel. Teak is beautiful and because it is so versatile, you will often find patio benches in elaborate designs. Whether looking for a scrolled back patio bench or a simple love seat with overstuffed cushions, teak is always an excellent choice.

    With wood patio benches, there is a wide selection in both wood type and design. The nice thing about choosing wood is that you can choose a bench regardless of your taste. In other words, if you prefer Edwardian, contemporary, traditional, country, or anything in between, you will find a number of patio benches from which to choose. In addition to the popular choices of redwood and teak, you will also find benches constructed from cedar, beech, birch, jarrah, cypress, mahogany, oak, and pine. The only thing to remember is that some of the softer woods such as pine do not do as well as the hardwoods.

    Now, if you are on a budget but still want a patio bench that will look great and be functional, you might think about wicker. Most of the wicker patio benches on the market are specially treated so they can weather rain, wind, and dirt. However, experts do recommend that wicker furniture be taken in during the cold winter months or covered. However, wicker is actually very strong and durable as long as you purchase quality. Just remember that your best bet for a wicker patio bench is to choose what is known as "all weather" wicker. With this, the patio bench would be designed with an aluminum frame that provides better structure and durability.

    You might also think about metal. For example, you will find patio benches constructed from aluminum, which is actually an excellent outdoor material. With this, you do not have to worry about rust and aluminum is strong, handling outdoor elements quite well. Typically, you would see the legs of the bench made from tubular aluminum, meaning they are hollow with internal reinforcing to give it strength. If you want a patio bench with detailing, then cast aluminum would be a great choice. The result is elegance and a classic look that is perfect for any patio. Finally, wrought iron is often used for patio benches that have scrolling, and a rich style. As you can see, when it comes to patio benches, the options are endless.

    Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous furniture websites, makes it easy to find quality patio benches and indoor benches . Learn how to decorate your patio and home in style by clicking the following link: http://www.SimplyBenches.com.

    Thursday, February 12, 2009

    Garden Makeover On A Budget

    Writen by Thomas Murrell

    There's been a huge increase in the popularity of garden makeovers. Teams of people come in and transform your garden in less than a day. But how can you save money by avoiding the experts and costly plants and perform a garden makeover miracle yourself?

    Planning, research and the quality of plants are integral factors to saving money when buying plants for your garden.

    The quickest way to waste money is needing to replace plants after they wither and die.

    Perth nursery owner Courtney Babb, from Garden Affair in South Perth, says get it right the first time. "It's important to plan what you want first, then go and buy the plants. It cost's more if you're never really satisfied", he said.

    Developing a basic plan and researching the requirements of your garden is essential to saving money. You must determine what plants are suitable to your garden's environment and choose varieties fitting to the climate and soil.

    Buying seeds or seedlings is the most cost effective way of starting your garden and this certainly needs planning. It may take a little longer and command more patience but seeds establish themselves faster and develop stronger root systems. Buy seedlings without flowers and always check the quality of seeds by looking for splits or marks and moisture in the packaging.

    The quality of the plants you buy is vital. Look for healthy foliage and strong root systems, don't buy plants with roots growing out the bottom of the pot or with discoloured, diseased foliage.

    "Buying plants that after twelve months you can lift, divide and then re-plant, can save a lot of money," said Mr Babb.

    Perennials and succulents are ideal to divide and re-plant, including ornamental grasses such as mondo grass. The ultimate saving is to gather cuttings from friends and family members, ensuring the original plant is healthy and disease free.

    "Native plants and groundcovers are extremely cost effective, especially in terms of maintenance," adds Mr Babb. Plants that easily multiply are a great way to save dollars on your landscaping budget in the long run.

    Peta Woods from Southside Garden Centre says to use your local people. "They don't have the overheads of larger chains so they are a lot more competitive on prices. I also find the stock is fresher because they have less to look after," she said.

    It is best to purchase at the beginning of the plants growing season and get them established before extreme weather strikes. Buying plants in bulk is always a cheaper alternative as prices can be negotiated.

    Landscaping can be an expensive task but there are ways of reducing the cost of establishing your garden. Shop around to compare prices and plant quality to get the best deal.

    Transforming the Garden of Desolation to the Garden of Eden need not be budget blowing. Here are ten ideas on how to save money when buying plants for your garden:

    1. Plan and prepare your garden.
    2. Buy seeds or seedlings rather than potted plants.
    3. Buy plants that are suited to their environment.
    4. Look for healthy root systems and foliage.
    5. Shop at small, local nurseries, they have competitive prices and fresher stock.
    6. Purchase at the beginning of the plants growing season.
    7. Native plants and ground covers are cost effective.
    8. Buy plants you can lift, divide and re-plant, such as perennials and succulents.
    9. Avoid having to re-purchase by getting plants established before extreme weather.
    10. Negotiate the price if buying in bulk.

    Thomas Murrell MBA CSP is an international business speaker, consultant and award-winning broadcaster. Media Motivators is his regular electronic magazine read by 7,000 professionals in 15 different countries.

    You can subscribe by visiting http://www.8mmedia.com. Thomas can be contacted directly at +6189388 6888 and is available to speak to your conference, seminar or event. Visit Tom's blog at http://www.8mmedia.blogspot.com.

    Wednesday, February 11, 2009

    Dont Forget The Birds This Winter

    Writen by Briscoe White

    Don't forget the birds this winter. It is cold, and not every species has flown south. In fact, your yard is full of birds foraging constantly to survive the winter months. You can really help by keeping feeders constantly full, and have the benefit of a yard full. I keep a few close to windows, and am constantly entertained. A few things to keep in mind about feeding birds:

    Place a new feeder near an old one. Keep both full unti the birds become used to the new one, and begin to feed from it.

    It is important to keep the feeders clean. In fact, it is vital to the health of the birds. Old seed which has rotted can make the birds sick. Every 3 – 4 weekds, allow the feeder to empy, shake out any excess seed and then rinse with warm water and mild soap.

    Place feeders 6 – 7 feet from any tree or railing to keep the squirrels away. I don't take my own advice, but I have made peace with the squirrels long ago. Gracie, my 11 year old mutt, spends her day working the squirrel population, and that helps!

    Feeders should go up on Labor Day and taken down in June. There should be enough natural food available to sustain the birds during those months.

    Birds do need water all year round, and a bird bath is a welcome treat in the hot months, and water during a freeze is vital.

    In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of flower gardening experience. For further information on gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com.

    Tuesday, February 10, 2009

    Storage Sheds

    Writen by Marcus Peterson

    Storage sheds are buildings that are used primarily to store unused household articles that may be used sometime in future. They may contain various hardware articles, vessels, toys, sports goods, or junk.

    As storage sheds are used chiefly as storehouses, they are devoid of any furniture, expect maybe some wall cupboards and racks or simply shelves attached to their walls. These sheds have small windows and double hinged-doors that are designed to be wide enough to facilitate moving equipment in and out of them. Storage sheds do not contain much of lighting and ventilation. It is very important to have pest control done in storage sheds because they can be a breeding ground for insects and rodents.

    It is also very important to decide the proper material while building a storage shed. Choice of material depends on what the shed will be used to store. Wood must be of good quality like cedar; otherwise it may house cockroaches and other insects. Wood also rots after prolonged exposure to moisture. Despite all of this, wood can provide an added aesthetic appeal to the shed. Poly vinyl carbonate is a good material to construct storage sheds because it resists corrosion, is unaffected by heat and insects, and is also cheap and durable. An industrial storage shed must be ideally made of a metal like steel or aluminum.

    The size of storage sheds depends on the amount of articles that need to be stored in them. A normal sized shed with a floor area of 10 feet by 10 feet can easily house a garden tractor, but if the space within the storage shed is not enough, then there are other add-ons that can provide more space. The three main add-on sheds are corner sheds, horizontal sheds, and vertical sheds. Corner sheds can fit in a corner and are about 3 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet. Vertical and horizontal sheds fit into the main shed and they may be 5 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet. There can be more space-oriented additions to a storage shed like constructing a loft or using the space under the windows.

    Storage sheds usually contain the junk of the house or unneeded articles that one doesn't feel like discarding yet. Sheds should be elegantly designed; otherwise, they may mar the entire appearance of the house.

    Sheds provides detailed information about sheds, how to build a shed, metal sheds and more. Sheds is affiliated with Modular Home Plans.

    The Gardening Tips You Need To Be Able To Have That Dream Garden

    Writen by Kenny Yong

    In gardening, there are some tips that many have found more useful over others. These tips can be applied to the different types of gardens that people have.

    Taking these gardening tips into account is an assurance that you will have the kind of garden that you have always dreamed of having. On the other hand, not following the important advice will not get you anywhere near your dream garden.

    What are some of the best tips in gardening?

    Gardening tip number 1: Choose plants that will suit your garden location.

    In the process of making your own garden, you should already be aware of the location you are in and the kind of plants that will be compatible to your place. If you are located in tropical places, you are better off having plants that grow healthy in these places.

    You should also consider plants that can give you some shade from the scourging heat of the sun. This will ensure that your garden will remain cool and breezy.

    Gardening tip number 2: Different water level needs for different soil kinds.

    There are loose and compact soil. These are the most common soil types that you find in many places. Take note that how you water your plant will depend on the kind of soil they are planted.

    Loose soils need to have small amounts of water that are carefully sprinkled. This way, the soil will not be washed away. It will also prevent the plant from being "suffocated" in water.

    Compact soil need to be watered meticulously to ensure that the water will be absorbed up to the roots. You might need to mulch on the area around the plant before watering so that the water will not just stay in the surface.

    Gardening tip number 3: Sweep or rake up dry leaves.

    Dried leaves can harm your plants in the sense that they can become the breeding ground for worms and insects. Once this happens, they can destroy the much healthier plants instantly.

    Scattered leaves are best off raked and turn into compost that you can use to your plants. Always remember to gather and keep them away from your plants once you see them in abundance.

    Gardening tip number 4: Apply fertilizers to your plants.

    Fertilizers can provide the necessary nutrients that your plants need. It will ensure that your plants will grow healthy and strong. You can ask those who have knowledge on fertilizers on what kind of fertilizer your plant will need.

    Apply fertilizers on a regular basis to maintain the steady growth of your plants. Without fertilizers, your plants will not grow to its full potential.

    Gardening tip number 5: Control the weed growth in your garden.

    Weeds not only take up the available space left in your garden, they also take on the nutrients in the soil that should have been for your plants. That is why it is important that you cut or cultivate them even before they grow much taller.

    Eliminating weeds in you're your garden will give your plants the extra space they need for air intake. It will also prevent them from competing with your plants.

    By following these gardening tips, you can be 100% sure that you can have that dream garden without all the trouble and the problems normally encountered in gardens.

    For more information and tips about gardening. Visit us at http://www.GardeningWebs.net/

    Monday, February 9, 2009

    3 Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree

    Writen by Daniel Delott

    Bonsai trees are a lot of fun, but if you don't know anything on taking care of Bonsai trees, then you're going to have a hard time growing them. So here are a few tips on taking care and growing Bonsai trees.

    Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree #1:

    Shaping. This is a big part of getting your dream Bonsai tree to look how you had thought it would. So if you get some metal wire, you will be able to grow your Bonsai tree in the direction you want much quicker than other methods.

    Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree #2:

    Wires. Aluminum works best because it is gentle and soft on branches. The wire will need to be thick, since thin wire has a tendency to scratch the tree's bark. When you need to, you can use copper wire. (Since it is stronger than aluminum.)

    Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree #3:

    When wiring the Bonsai tree, start with the thicker branches, then work out towards the thinner ones.

    There are just a few tips on taking care of Bonsai trees, there are many aspects to growing and maintaining them, but a lot of this comes from experience.

    Dan has been growing Bonsai trees for over 15 years. He was a botany major. If you want to grow Bonsai trees, and don't know how, this may be the most important guide you read - Bonsai Training Manual

    Sunday, February 8, 2009

    How To Spice Up Your Garden With Decor

    Writen by Khieng Chho

    The art of garden never fails to transform an idle tract of land into a beautiful and lively environment. Gardens feed the spirit's longing for beauty and grace as it provides a venue to witness the wonder of nature and the comforts of home. While plants and trees are enough to make a garden delightful, the landscape can surely be enhanced by installing garden décor.

    There are many types of garden decors each having unique features and purposes for your garden. Here are some garden decors:

    Arbors, Pillars, and Gazebos – these are large structures that can add a good focal point to your garden. Having large structures can create an illusion of having a large space. These structures can also serve as platforms for aerial plants. Climbing foliage such as vines may also cling to these platforms, creating an elegantly classic garden effect.

    Statuaries and Wind Sculptures – these also provide good focal points for the landscape. Such structures add a sense of prominence, strength, and sturdiness.

    Bird feeders and bird baths – these simple additions to a garden attract beautiful creatures the landscape. Since a garden is generally inadequate without the chirp of robins and jays, installing something that would make them feel welcome is a good way of cheering up the garden.

    Other architectural ornamentation – architectural structures create a good balance with and contrast against the natural elements of a garden such as shrubs and trees. Man-made structures enhance the sight of nature, making it appear more familiar and inviting.

    Trellises and obelisks – these are good in blocking obtrusive structure and other unwanted views. It is impossible to have a perfect view all the time as obstructions cannot be completely eliminated. Luckily you can install structures that can block eyesores. Trellises are good for this purpose because they can act as support for clinging vines.

    Fountains and ponds – water dripping and splashing can be great way to relax. Fountains are usually installed to add a natural ambience that can draw positive energy to your garden. Having a fountain in your garden can also make it a suitable place for meditation exercises like yoga and tai chi. If you have the budget, you may choose to have elaborate and grand fountains installed. You my also choose to add simple rock fountain that greatly serves its purpose at such small a cost.

    Landscape lighting – you can enjoy your garden even without the sun, the moon or the stars. By installing simple lights on trees and other plants, you can create a beautiful setting which can even be romantic and enticing. Lighting does not have to be permanent. You can use Christmas lights or even lanterns and candles to illuminate your garden anytime. Lights can also prevent strangers from hiding in your garden.

    Garden furniture – the best way to enjoy the beauty of your garden is to stay in it and in order to do so you might need chairs and tables specifically designed for the outdoors. These could also serve as picnic furniture for those times you would want to have barbecue outdoor dinners.

    The garden experience can greatly be enhanced by garden décor. To know more about garden decors, simply contact your local garden supplier or visit the many websites devoted to landscaping and gardening.

    Khieng 'Ken' Chho - Online Garden Decor Resources. For more, visit Ken's website: http://gardendecoration.wicwoc.com/

    Gardening With Dogs

    Writen by Gentry Ellis

    It is possible to have a garden and have dogs—even large dogs. We have a 5 year old Eskimo dog, Brinkley, who we are happy to call a member of the family. When we got Brinkley, he was a 10 week old out of control untrained puppy. With the help of positive obedience training, he has turned into a wonderful family dog. This didn't happen overnight, but it is the case today. He still has accidents and he isn't perfect, but overall he is great dog. Below, you'll find some of my tips to help you establish your garden and still live in harmony with your dog at the same time.

    • It is ideal if you first see how your dog uses your yard. Dogs may be attached to certain pathways, and may even have a specific area that they choose to eliminate in. If that is the case, work with it. Avoid planting in areas that your dog will want to use regularly. If you dog are "hogging" the whole yard, now is the time to establish your space and his space.
    • Plant in beds. Single trees/plants are more vulnerable to damage when dogs play.
    • Dogs are wired to not eliminate in the same place they sleep or play. This is why crate training is often successful. If possible, get your pets off the grass when they eliminate. Provide a mulched area and encourage them or retrain them to eliminate there. This may be like going back to the days of potty training your dog not to eliminate in your home, but it can be done.
    • Pets can be trained to treat garden walkways, trees and shrubs like they treat furniture and hallways in your home. If you expect them to have the same good manners in your garden, and your obedience training is consistent this can be very successful for you.
    • If you've trained your pet not to eat your couch or coffee table, you can train him not to eat your plants. Use the same approach. This is great not only for maintaining a pretty garden, but some plants can be toxic to dogs. If you make yard obedience training a goal, it will benefit you and your dog.
    • Do leave an area for your dog to play, run, and relax in. If your dog enjoys dog houses, you might put one here. You might also offer good chews or bones in this area.
    • Try to keep an area such as a deck or patio between the yard and the entryway into your house. This can be a place for pets to clean their feet. You can teach a dog the circle command and he will walk around in circles and some of the dirt will come off his feet. You can keep an old towel or rag here to wipe off paws. It will reduce the amount of mud your pet tracks into your home.
    • Digging is a problematic behavior. It's more challenging to get a dog to stop digging than it is to train them to eliminate in a certain area. You will want to establish a command for "no dig". When the dog stops digging, reward them with a treat or petting. If they continue to dig, consider investing in a water squirt bottle or a sqirt gun that has a lot of range. Squirt the water at them--preferably in their face when they are digging. Never hit your dog. Positive reinforcement and gentle, but firm and consistent discipline are the best approaches.

    Gentry is a stay at home mom, with a passion for writing. For more articles on easy living, visit http://www.genstyleliving.com.

    Articles are © genstyleLiving

    Saturday, February 7, 2009

    Caring For Bonsai Plants

    Writen by Briscoe White

    Bonsai, pronounced "bone-sigh" (singular and plural) are dwarfed plants or trees grown in shallow pots or trays. The Japanese developed the art of Bonsai many hundreds of years ago. They tried to capture the beauty of oddly dwarfed trees that managed to grow under the most adverse conditions. Today, the beauty of these trees can be replicated indoors by pruning the roots and top growth, restricting the pot size and shaping the plant by wiring it. Plants used for Bonsai vary from traditional trees such as junipers and cypresses to flowering and fruiting shrubs and trees such as azaleas and camellias to tropical plants such as jade and ficus. With a little special care, The Bonsai can bring a little taste of the Orient into your home.

    The basic care requirements are as follows:

    1) Light – an unobstructed west, east or south window is preferred, south being the best in the winter. Grow lights can also be used successfully with Bonsai.

    2) Water and Fertilizer – the small pots require regular watering, typically once a day. The frequent watering depletes nutrients quickly so fertilizing is recommended (at half strength) monthly.

    3) Temperature – average house temperatures of 68-72 degrees are fine, although plants typically like nights to drop 10-15 degrees below the average daytime temperature. Placing the plant between the window and curtain usually satisfies this requirement. Some trees need a dormant cold period during the winter and can weather outdoors for 2 – 3 months in a protected spot.

    4) Humidity – to increase humidity indoors, group plants together, and mist daily. You can also use a room humidifier or place plants on a tray of moistened pebbles.

    To learn more about growing Bonsai, you may want to read the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's excellent handbook entitled Bonsai for Indoors.

    In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of gardening experience. For further information on indoor and outdoor gardening plants or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com.

    The Perfect Yellow Roses For Your Home Or Garden

    Writen by Ken Austin

    Yellow roses are beauties, aren't they? Don't they look beautiful on a sunny morning? Yellow roses say spring just their look and color. The yellow rose, while somewhat rare in its natural habitat, is becoming a popular item in the floral shop. Yellow roses might be what you are looking for, and if so, there are several ways to find the perfect yellow rose for your home or garden.

    Yellow roses are one of a number of different colored roses that are available in garden centers and even discount department stores. But, there are so many varieties to choose from that you shouldn't limit yourself to whatever those places have on hand. Check out your local garden center for an idea of what they offer, but then explore the yellow rose varieties online as well. It is not a difficult task to find rose distributors who are able to supply yellow roses to the average customer. And, in doing so, you allow yourself to have many choices at your fingertips!

    To find a distributor of yellow roses, simply use any major search engine like Yahoo or Google and type that phrase in. Hit go and you've got at your fingertips a wide selection of choices. Begin your search by comparing color, size, hardiness, and even price. Once you know what you want, try a couple of different places to find just the right characteristics and features available. With the Internet as a tool, it is easy to see how you can accomplish this in just a few minutes.

    Remember to take into consideration the type of soil you will use, the surrounding area where you will plant the yellow rose, the amount of sun it will receive, and the temperatures it can tolerate. With all that said, finding gorgeous yellow roses isn't too bad of a task at all.

    Ken Austin
    Roses and Rose Gardening
    Learn to Grow Perennials

    Friday, February 6, 2009

    Landscaping Tips 6 Basic Steps To Building A Garden Pond

    Writen by Carlo Morelli

    Building a garden pond is not just a matter of digging a hole, lining it with plastic and filling it with water. There are other considerations such as whether it should contain fish or just plants; how big or small it should be; its shape, and so on. Be prepared to dig a decent hole and spend many hours complaining about your aching back … but you'll be very pleased with the results and you can happily stand around, beer in hand, praising your efforts after the fact. For those who have done it, building a garden pond can be a very satisfying project indeed.

    Step 1 - Decide on where to build your pond.

    Naturally, level ground would be best or else you'll spend far more time and effort doing the levelling yourself. Building a garden pond under a tree is unwise as the roots will continue to grow and could encroach upon the pond's territory in the future. The shade of the tree will also mean a lack of sunlight, which is essential to your pond's survival. Since you will need electricity for the pump, proximity to an outlet is important.

    Step 2 – Prefabricated or do-it-yourself liner?

    Prefabs are the more expensive option but you pay for ease of installation, durability and low maintenance. Liners are available in different price ranges and generally speaking, the more you pay, the longer your liner will last.

    Step 3 – Installation

    For a prefab pond, tip it upside down on the area you've reserved, mark it out with 6 to 8 inches extra around the outside and start digging. If using liners, measure your outline keeping in mind the size of the liner you will be using. Building a garden pond that will last for years means that all debris should be removed from the cavity to avoid punctures to the bottom of the pond. Once the hole is the required depth and size, add the prefab or lay the lining. Fill to about one quarter capacity with water so that the weight will keep the pond in place as you refill the gaps with soil.

    Step 4 – Decoration

    You can now add plants, rocks, bark and stone around the 'banks' of the pond for a more natural appearance. If you intend to add fish, plants that overhang into the water will be useful as shade and hiding spots.

    Step 5 – Add aquatic plants

    If you're building a garden pond that doesn't have a pump, you should aim for plenty of plant life to keep algae growth under control.

    Step 6 – Install a pump and filter

    There are dozens of models on the market and your retailer will be able to help you decide which size is best for your pond. Read the instructions and follow carefully, but it's generally a simple task to place the pump in the water and connect the hose to it. The filter needs to be positioned in front of the pump to encourage water through the filter first. Building a garden pond and outfitting it should take little more than a weekend, which is one of the things that makes it so rewarding.

    Visit onlineTips.org, where you can read more about pond aerators and ultraviolet pond filters.

    Thursday, February 5, 2009

    Do It Yourself Landscaping 6 Things You Must Know Before You Start

    Writen by Shrinivas Vaidya

    Designing and growing a beautiful landscape garden around your home is a great experience. Just imagine how it will feel looking around your own beautifully grown and maintained garden, that stays fresh all the day and fills your life with a sense of pride. But before you start let's take a look at some of the key factors that can needs a major decision while executing your garden.

    I have tried to list down some of the common points here that need attention prior to starting out landscaping design.

    1) Information about plants.

    This is quite obvious. You must have a list of plants ready with you. .it is not difficult to create such a list from a catalogue of plants at your local nursery or from the Internet, but the problem is these are the plants that you like, does not mean they are suitable for growth in your garden.

    Why is this so? Simply because there are many factors that are responsible for the growth of a plant in your garden, such as direct sunlight, amount of water required, frequency of watering, which compost to use and not to use, doe the plant grow individually or in groups, and many more. SO don't choose plants that just look good in photographs, find out something more about their basic requirements.

    Also it is important to know the basic structure of plant. For example how tall will it grow after 10 years from now. It should not happen that you have planted a tree and after a few years it is blocking your entire garden entry passage and view from inside of the house.

    It's ok if you don't have each and every detail about all the plants. But if you plan for future, the results will be quite satisfactory.

    2) Gardening Tools

    This is very important aspect of gardening. Growing a landscape garden is not an easy task. I am not discouraging you, but it requires physical hard work and such time gardening tools can save your tremendous energy.

    There are many excellent tools available today and also in quite affordable prices. Depending upon what you want to achieve and the expanse your garden you will require different sets of tools. Start with making of list and then short listing the most important ones my deciding priorities.

    3) Landscaping Design Styles..

    This is not an absolute must, but if you take extra efforts, I bet you can easily compete with the professional designers. Visit your local library or the internet and get an idea of how "design" plays a role in landscaping. When designers talk about "balance", "ambience", "proportions", "vista formation" what exactly are they talking about. All these elements can greatly add value to your garden such that people visiting your garden will always remember it.

    4) Landscaping Material..

    Again a very basic understanding of landscaping materials along with their costing structure is enough for you. Whey costing is necessary? Because this can have a drastic effect in hoe you execute your garden.

    It should not happen that you have personally liked a material, you have seen it at some public garden or at your friend's place and want to use it in your backyard garden but at the last moment the budget doesn't allow you to use it.

    5) Executing Your Garden..

    Do you know what's the single most important aspect in executing a garden? it's schedule. By schedule I mean what comes first and what comes next. There are various questions to ask.

    *When do I start?
    *When should I order the plants from the nursery?
    *Where should I store them before panting?
    *If you are going to use electricity in your garden when should I call the electrician to perform his wiring tasks?
    *what about compost bags?
    *How many do I need them?
    *what about the bags that go unused? and lot more...

    Even if you appoint a "landscaping contractor" for this job, you can always use this list to cross examine what he is up to.

    6) Maintaining Your Garden..

    Maintained is the most important aspect in a garden. Someone has very cleverly said "It is very easy to be first, but it is comparatively harder to keep up the first position". A landscape garden is no different from this.

    look it's simple you are using natures forces to express your creativity, so follow natures rule and you will never fail. there is unlimited potential in nature to easily grow and maintain a beautiful garden on it's own, so shale hands with natures forces and see you dream come true. That's why the first point in this articles is very important. First study what works and what doesn't in your climatic conditions and then safely start to put your dream into reality.

    I hope this article was helpful to everybody.

    Copyright Shrinivas Vaidya

    Shrinivas Vaidya is the webmaster on landscapingdatabse.com If you are interested in making the most out of your landscaping passion, I recommend you visit my website to find an excellent list of books on Do It Yourself Landscaping. You will be glad you visited.

    Barefoot At The Cottage

    Writen by Robin De Groot

    One of the greatest private joys in cottage life is the ability to walk barefoot throughout your property. Whether our happy-feet are skimming across sun-baked stones along the shoreline or across the mossy velvet of our lawns; nothing can compare to the exhilarating and "freeing" feeling that "going barefoot" gives you.

    Going barefoot reacquaints you with a sense of carefree youthfulness and simple joy. To me, the gentle sound of the crunching leaves and the feeling of earth beneath my toes wash away the tensions and hostilities of "city" life.

    "Healthy feet can hear the very heart of Mother Earth"

    proverb of Sitting Bull

    As a friend of mine proudly states each summer as she proudly flutters barefoot at her cottage; "going barefoot is the ultimate relaxation method. What you feel with your feet is as far removed from you brain as possible – making you concentrate on your body – your environment – and all of your senses." My belief is simpler:

    1.	It feels good  2.	It's relaxing  3.	It connects you with nature  4.	It's fun

    However, before you begin to randomly shed your shoes, make sure That you closely inspect your property and avoid the following:

    1. Beware sharp edged Reed grass – they have a tendency to "bite". 2. Inspect your patio, barbeque and dock areas for broken glass, metal objects and litter. 3. Always step straight down. Avoid shuffling, dragging or kicking your feet and legs. 4. Always watch where you step. 5. Place your weight on the balls of your feet and not on your heel.

    Another grace of going barefoot at your cottage is its minimum impact upon nature. Whereas a booted foot on our trails and naturalized areas encourages erosion and "imprinting", a bare foot leaves no mark or effect. Thus, while you are enjoying the sensation of the earth, grass, moss, and pine needles between your toes, you are at the same time preserving your piece of Nature.

    Another offshoot of "going barefoot" at the cottage is its ability to encourage everyone who visits you cottage to be aware of their actions. Going barefoot quickly eliminates any "litter-bug" tendencies in not only yourself but in your guests.

    Come Spring "planting" make sure to consider your feet when selecting your plants. Try planting a foot-friendly ground cover such as Anthemis (Chamomile). This wondrous plant can establish itself in any soil condition, gives off a delicious subtle fragrance, can be walked upon and has a lovely delicate blossom. Try A. nobilis for its white blossoms and silvered foliage or A. nobilis treneague for its strong aroma and durability. Just remember only to walk on it in your bare feet so as not to disturb its root structure.

    Moss is another consideration. Encourage moss to grow across and amongst all of your rocks and woody areas. This can be achieved by simply spreading moss seeds on to the rocks in a mixture of 1-part moss seeds and 2 parts Buttermilk. Remember to continue drizzling buttermilk across the moss until it has become firmly established.

    For your pathways consider using your natural pine needles. This environmentally sound choice not only looks great, it is easy to do and feels great on your feet.

    Some other practicalities of going barefoot at the cottage include:

    1.	Set up "Rinsing Stations" for bare feet.  Simply take an oversized wide mouth galvanized container and fill it with fresh lake water each day.  Place one near your cottage and another near your dock.  2.	Always keep on hand near the cottage "rinsing station" a bar of gardener's soap.  Gardener's soap will not only deeply cleanse, it moisturizes and exfoliates as well.  3.	Make sure to stock a jar of Gardener's Hand Lotion each summer.
    It's mixture of beeswax; glycerin, lanolin, aloe and vitamin E will insure "happy feet".

    Great Design in essence is about the creation of an exquisite stage for the beauty and quality of life we all desire. From ultra urban to ornate opulence, Robin and his team have passionately and successfully designed it all. Robin's interiors have graced the pages of magazines Worldwide. Robin has designed interiors for feature films, major retailers such as Home Depot (Style Ideas Magazine) and the Designer Showhouse. From smaller scale interior projects to full scale restorations and developments, Robin's passionate and creative eye overseas all aspects. While fluent in all design trends and philosophies, Robin is most passionate about historic preservation and the creation of elegant, functional and memorable spaces that convey the best attributes of each owner while respecting and celebrating the architecture that encompasses them. Visit http://www.robindegroot.ca

    Wednesday, February 4, 2009

    Mower Safety Blood On The Blade

    Writen by Fred Davis

    Fall is upon us and the snows and chill of a Northeast winter won't be far behind. Lawnmower safety, however, is a ripe subject for any season. . .especially spring. Spring's a time when a gardener's thoughts turn seriously to mowing the lawns, tilling the garden, finally being able to go jogging without ear muffs and an overcoat...or just plain walking--a walk through spring renewal.

    There are, however, a great many people who find it painful to just walk; many who cannot comfortably jog; and more than a few who wince at the thought of mowing a lawn. Why? Simple: at some point in the past they refused to follow easily understood instructions--refused to apply common sense--and are now paying an unanticipated, not to mention very unpleasant, price for their errors.

    Let me tell you about some of those people who once stood tall, haughtily lifted their chins and clamped their teeth together in rebellion--steadfastly refusing to follow safety rules. Then let me point out a few crucially important steps you can--and must--take to ensure that someone in your family doesn't make the same tragic mistake. These are true and authentic examples.

      * First, a lady gardening in coastal Maine, was pushing her mower on a slope, in wet grass, with the wrong kind of shoes...she slipped, fell, and in a heartbeat her lower leg was severely sliced by the blade that was still running at full throttle.

      * Next, two grown men made the unimaginably unwise mistake of using a rotary mower to trim the top of a shrub-hedge. Suspended on either side by ropes--on a slope, no less--they literally lifted the running machine to about shoulder height and began walking along its considerable length. If their miscalculation had backfired, imagine what might easily and quickly have occurred if a sudden blast of trimmings had hit the one on the downhill side full in the face! Not a pleasant or pretty thought! Certainly would have been a memorable experience for both of them. Certainly could have resulted in enormous catastrophic injuries...or death! Mercifully, they got away with it.

      * And third, a Searsport, Maine, man wasn't so lucky. He had removed a perfectly good safety device from his rotary mower (the rubber flap in the rear that prevents toes from slipping under) a few days after he'd taped the machine's "dead-man" switch in the "run" position. As he pulled his mower backwards over uneven ground without watching where he was going, he tripped over a stone, fell backwards, and his right foot slipped under the blade housing. To make a long and painful story short, he now has a large and uncomfortable patch of scar tissue where the soft ball of his foot used to be. Mercifully, an incredibly talented and, to his eternal credit, patient surgeon was able to put it all back together again (Dr. John Gage, Waldo County Hospital, Belfast, Maine).

    What did they all have in common beside their injuries? They had all either defeated safety devices on their mowers, and/or utterly ignored common sense safety rules that would have prevented a great deal of grief and pain...not to mention lost productivity and huge medical/surgical expenses.

    Don't allow these incredibly dumb mistakes to occur in your family! Listen to these three responsibilities you must assume, and wedge them firmly into memory--now--before you even start the engine.

      1. You must accept the responsibility to insure that your youngsters under 14 are not allowed to operate any power mower. They are forgetful, largely irresponsible at that tender age, easily distracted, and have no business attached to the controls of a power mower.

      2. You must accept the responsibility to adequately protect yourself from catastrophic or crippling injury. How? Read the instruction manual--especially the section on safety. Then do what it says! Apply some common sense; wear protective shoes; check the lawn for rocks, kid or pet toys, or anything that might become a projectile...before you start the engine. The tip of a mower blade can attain a speed exceeding 19,000 feet per minute. It's usually attached to a five or six horsepower engine. The force at the tip can reach more than 10,000 pounds per square inch. You stick your foot in there, or reach in with your hand to clear grass away from the chute, and it could be sliced at the rate of 120 times per second! Trust me...a lot can happen in a second or two. Keep children and pets completely off the lawn during any mowing operation. That'll lessen the risk of their being struck by something thrown from under the machine.

      3. Critically important: never, ever remove or defeat safety devices on a mower. A dead-man switch (that you may have already wired or taped in the "on" position) was designed for a very specific purpose--to shut that machine down almost instantly after you release the handle. Many fingers and toes could be saved if all mowers had a functioning dead-man switch. Additionally, the discharge-chute-deflector has proven itself to be of great value in preventing broken windows, bruised shins and ankles, and dented cars. Yeah...I know all about it! It gets in the way, so off it comes. Don't do that!

    As far as I'm concerned, the most valuable safety feature is the rear toe guard--the rubber or thick flexible plastic thing that drags on the ground behind the mower. I'm here to verify the fact that taking it off because it interferes with pulling the mower backwards is incredible dangerous...and can bring about painful expense. I know what I'm talking about! Take a look at the picture of a badly chopped-up shoe (follow the link at the end of this article). The foolish person who was wearing it broke four cardinal rules: he'd removed the toe guard, had defeated the dead-man switch, was pulling his mower backwards, and was daydreaming.

    I'm still paying for those foolish mistakes. (In my own defense, however, I was younger then. . .and convinced of my indestructibility and, perhaps, immortality as well. It's a young-guy thing!)

    What can you do to protect yourself and your family from the dreadful and crippling consequences of these or similar errors? Don't allow your kids under 14 to operate power equipment...even if they are smarter than most...even if they're "supervised"...even if they beg or if you're too darned lazy to get off the couch or out of the lawn chair and do it yourself. Read and follow safety instructions. And never tamper with safety devices or features. Now it's up to you. You can do it. How much do you care about your or your kids' personal safety? How much is a foot or hand or an eye worth?

    If your power equipment has had its safety devices removed or defeated, that's tantamount to playing with fire in a gunpowder factory. You must put those safety devices back in working order. And if you're any kind of a responsible person, you'll do it now, before another blade of grass is cut. Fail in that responsibility and you or one of your family may soon have a shoe that looks like mine to spark memories of damage. . .or lost toes. You may never be able to forgive yourself!

    See a photo that demonstrates what can happen when safety precautions are ignored: http://www.HillGardens.com/mower_photo.htm

    Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-frills gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com/

    Growing Ornamental Grasses Growing Advice And Handy Tips For The Gardener

    Writen by Peter Corbett

    Finding the Spot. The winds of change have blown through the gardening world during the last twenty years. With the modern trends now turning towards smaller and more minimalist gardens and the rise in popularity of planned low maintenance and theme gardens from oriental to modern contemporary styles and even prairie, there has been a renewed interest in ornamental grasses. Many grasses are undeniably elegant and graceful adding structure and form to a garden. In the breeze they bring movement and sound. Many have beautiful flowers and later seed heads that last right through the winter season.

    Grasses are probably the most highly developed and most widely distributed of all plants. Grasses remain one of the most important plant groups as they include all the cereal and rice crops that sustain man and feed and fodder for our animals, They provide roofing thatch and building materials, alcohol, and over millennia most of our fossil fuels.

    Grasses are the most undemanding of plants they require little care except a brush up and trim once in a while. There are grasses to suit all garden sizes and soil types from the stately Cortadiera and Stipa gigantica down to the dainty "Acorus gramineus."

    In order to understand how to grow grasses successfully in your garden its important to understand a little about their growth habits. Perhaps the most important thing to know if you are unfamiliar with grasses is that grasses reproduce both vegetatively, that is by sending up new shoots from their roots or rhizomes and by seed distribution.

    There are a several simple ways to group grasses for the novice. First by their growth habit, some form clumps and tussocks and usually reproduce through seed production, as a rule are quite well behave. The others are spreaders or runners who produce new shoots through spreading roots and rhizomes and can tend to march. Most domestic lawns are made up of a mixtures of these running grasses.

    The other important grouping is to distinguish between what are known as warm weather grasses and cold weather grasses. The impact on the plant can be quite dramatic if you are dividing plants for propagation and you choose the wrong time of year to do it. The difference between warm weather and cold weather grasses should not cause you any problems if you are just transplanting from a small pot to a larger one or direct to the garden.

    Sedges are not true grasses though they are often lumped together with the grass section at retail outlets. Although very similar to grasses the are in fact a very much older species. Sedges tend to prefer wet or boggy situations and are dealt in a separate section to avoid confusion.

    Most grasses enjoy sunlight, as much as possible, however there are a number of varieties that will tolerate shade for part of the day. Most grasses are totally unfussy about the type of soil they are in as long as its not water logged. Grasses have an incredibly sophisticated and efficient root system making them extremely exposure and drought tolerant. Most grasses prefer a very free draining soil that is almost impoverished if they are to perform well. There is very rarely any need to feed as to much nutrient makes the grass over lush and it tends to collapse. If your soil is very heavy or clay try digging in plenty of sharp sand. One other benefits of grass is you can mulch with grave. Gravel not only highlights the grasses features but the gravel will eventually work its way down into the soil to the appreciation of the plant.

    Grasses on the whole do not suffer much from pests and diseases. Most problems that are likely to be encountered will be from trying to grow a plant in the wrong place especially if the ground is waterlogged. Wet ground combined with environmental extremes such as freezing conditions are probably the only sure way to kill most grasses. Don't forget to water container grown grasses occasionally and grasses that are exposed to warm or cold drying winds. If your grasses are showing any signs of stress the best thing is to up with them and shift them somewhere else, it wont harm them, they are survivors and want to survive and do well just as you do.

    Finally once again consider the size of the plant you are buying do your research. A giant Cortadiera in its infancy in a 1 litre pot looks insignificant when stood alongside a Miscanthus sinensis in a 2 litre pot in the garden centre. Ten years down the line however the Miscanthus will have probably made 80cm x 70 cm but wow! the Cortadiera selloana will be in the region of 3 meters by 3 meters. If you have a small garden there wont be much left and don't forget to consider the shade that these big guys throw out.

    Choose carefully and enjoy your grasses they are truly worth the time an thought.

    The Pot and Grass Company specialises in importing and growing Hardy Bamboos and Ornamental Grasses. The Pot and grass company also propagate their own bamboos by division and grow ornamental grasses, sedges and ferns, at the nursery field near Colchester Essex. The Pot and Grass Company can be found at http://www.potandgrass.co.uk

    The Author Peter Corbett has a passion and is an avid collector of bamboo and grasses. He advises the Pot and Grass Company.

    Tuesday, February 3, 2009

    Orange Perennials For Your Garden

    Writen by Lee Dobbins

    Perennials are wonderful because, they bloom year after year. Sometimes, I forget that I even have them planted and then they spring up to my surprise and delight! I like to add some zip to my garden with flowers that are orange in color. They add a vibrant touch and the brilliant colors attract birds and insects.

    Here's some of my favorite orange perennials:

    Butterfly Weed – This flowers in summer and can get as high as three feet. It has compact clusters of flowers and as the name implies, it does attract butterflies!

    Day Lily – I see this beautiful flower growing wild all over the place here in New Hampshire. It blooms in summer and sits on 30" tall stalks. These perennials are virtually care free and will grow in most locations. Since 1 stalk can have over fourty flowers, you can have a bed of these that blooms for a month or more in the summer.

    Gaillardia – This comes in a regular size that has 4" daisy like flowers and a dwarf size. The plant is short growing to about 2 feet and blooms in summer. These like to be planted in the full sun but are quite hardy and you can extend the bloom time if you cut off the fading flowers. And the best thing is that they also attract butterflies!

    Helianthemum - Blooms This is a good ground cover that blooms in summer It is easy to grow on rocky slopes and creates a border of color. If you are lucky it will bloom twice, once in early summer and then again in late summer.

    Oriental Poppy – Beautiful orange flowers that bloom in spring and grow to 24". These beautiful perennials like a sunny spot with well drained soil.

    Torch lily - This interesting perennial blooms in summer and produces spikes of orange cone shaped flowers that can grow to 6 feet. It likes to be planted in a sunny location and is great for zones 5 – 10. This plant attracts hummingbirds!

    Trumpet Creeper – I had one of these beautiful vines growing wild up my chimney. It blooms in mid to late summer and has trumpet shaped flowers that hang from it's lush vines. It will cling to anything and can grow up to 30 feet. It can also grow as a shrub when it has nothing to cling to. It grows quickly and also attracts hummingbirds.

    Lee Dobbins is owner and editor of Backyard Garden And Patio where you can learn how to turn your backyard into an oasis and find out more about garden flowers

    Monday, February 2, 2009

    Decorative Bird Houses And Their Requirements

    Writen by Babu Banik

    The nesting season is an important time for birds. Its springtime and birds must now turn to nesting. They turn their full attention and energy to nesting during springtime. It is a stressful experience for a bird to move to a new location. They need to adjust to new sights, sounds and foods. While birds are amazingly resilient, there are a number of things you can do to help minimize the stresses of a new home.

    It is important that the birdhouse be set up even before you purchase your bird. No matter how simple, elaborate or decorative, the most important features are safety, the location of the birdhouse and the dimensions and shape of the birdhouse and entrance. A good birdhouse must have the following features:

    Ventilation holes in the top and drainage holes in the bottom Absence of a perch by the entrance - perches encourage predators such as cats Easy to clean - birdhouses should be thoroughly cleaned once a year to remove last year's nest materials and to prevent nest parasites.

    One of the great ways to bring your yard to life with flashes of color, nature's music and amusement is to provide your birds with their own private nesting area. You can add a birdhouse to your yard or garden where birds can nest safely without fearing natural predators. A birdhouse also provides shelter and warmth during heavy winds and at times of ferocious storms.

    If we can have fancy houses, then why not birds? So, be creative, while choosing a birdhouse. Birdhouses range in style from gazebo and Victorian styles to barns and space shuttles. The design is your choice. You might like to build or purchase a birdhouse that will reflect your personal character. Birds aren't really interested in architectural design, but want a birdhouse that will provide safety, security and easy access.

    Bird population is diminishing in today's world due to the use of chemicals that are polluting their natural habitat and food supply. Birdhouses protect birds and coupled with well-stocked feeders and a variety of seeds and insects from your garden, they will find a safe haven in your backyard. In return, they bring your garden to life with flashes of color, wonderful songs and comical antics.

    A birdhouse should be well built, durable, waterproof, cool in summer, warm in winter and easily accessible to birds. Be sure you allow for cleaning when assembling your birdhouse. If you're planning to purchase one, look for cracks in the wood, knots and other defects that will allow water to get inside. If you're building the house, use your imagination to create a unique birdhouse that will add a touch of charm to your yard or garden. Nowadays, many varieties of birdhouses are available in the market ranging from plain and simple to the elaborate and decorative.

    At Indipets, we look forward to sharing our yard with wildlife throughout the seasons particularly birds, who bring color, song, and life to our homes. Whether it's a family of Bluebirds, a group of Gold Finches or a scarlet red Cardinal nibbling on the sunflower seeds we've put out especially for him, birds delight and fascinate us all year long. Just put up a few houses, fill your feeders and soon you'll have a yard full of feathered friends.

    We Stock all types: HUMMINGBIRD FEEDERS, BIRD HOUSES, DECORATIVE BIRD HOUSES, WINDOW FEEDERS, BIRD FEEDERS, DECORATIVE FEEDERS, BIRD BATHS, BINOCULARS & OPTICS, BAT HOUSES, LADY BUG HOUSES, BUTTERFLIES, WILDLIFE FEEDERS/HOUSES, BIRD-WATCHING, ACCESSORIES, BOOKS and Other Media

    Visit our shed for the best products!

    A Steel Building Provides The Perfect Storage Solution

    Writen by Chris Robertson

    Steel buildings are enjoying a resurgence as a storage solution for everyone from sportsmen to farmers. Able to withstand the harshest weather conditions - heavy snow, thunderstorms, and even hurricanes - steel buildings have distinct advantages over other storage options. With simple bolt-together construction, a steel building can be easily expanded to any length and - because it can be constructed without a frame - can offer a clear span of one hundred percent usable space.

    Contrary to popular belief, constructing a steel building doesn't require specialized knowledge or dozens of workers. In fact, assembling a steel building requires no special tools or equipment, and can be completed by as few as four people in as little as three days.

    Steel buildings can be the perfect solution for:

    Sportsmen - Use a steel building as a garage or workshop. A steel building provides shelter for a boat, RV, or antique car. It can also be set up for a roomy workshop, with space to comfortably work on virtually any project. It can even be used as an airplane hangar!

    Farmers - An arch-style steel building is the perfect agricultural solution. It can provide economical storage for farm equipment, machinery, and livestock. A steel building offers superior strength over I-beam buildings or pole barns, and can store hay in a vermin-proof facility.

    Small Industrial Businesses - A steel building with a high sidewall clearance is ideal for equipment and materials storage, and makes for a great looking manufacturing facility. It is perfect for a workshop, and provides fire-resistant safety for heavy-duty tools.

    Truckers - A steel building offers the perfect storage solution for big rigs, and has the added benefit of providing space for a workshop. Because a steel building protects against the elements, it is great for repairing and storing trucks.

    A steel building can be used in a variety of other ways, as well. It can be used as an office built on to a manufacturing facility, or can be used behind a façade for a retail shop. A steel building can make a great animal shelter, and can even be customized for an affordable living space.

    When buying a steel building, it's important to consider the quality of materials and construction. Optimally, the steel building will be built with galvalume-coated steel, an alloy containing aluminum and zinc. This type of steel is seven times more rust resistant than typical galvanized steel. In addition, look for a steel building that comes with a multi-year guarantee, and one that is affordable and easy to assemble.

    Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web. Visit this Construction Website and Majon's Construction directory.

    Sunday, February 1, 2009

    Iris Species And Care

    Writen by William Berg

    Iris is the name of a genus of flowering plants belonging to the family Iridaceae. The various Iris species have showy and beautiful flowers which make them popular in gardens and in floral arrangements. The name Iris is derived from the Latin name for rainbow, since Iris flowers exists in an abundance of color variations. The term Iris in not only used to describe the genus, it is also the common name for the comprised species. Sometimes similarly looking showy flowering species from related genera is also called Iris flowers.

    If you care for your planted Iris, you can enjoy it for many years to come since it is a perennial flower. Iris flowers growing in warm regions can grow throughout the year, while Iris flowers in colder regions will grow and flower only during the summer. If the climate is very dry and water is scarce, the will Iris will form bulbs. When water is more abundant, the Iris will instead spread via rhizomes. Since Iris can survive even in dry regions, they are very popular in California and Florida. Many Iris species appreciate regions where the nights are cool and the days hot. Ideally, you should plant your Iris in the shade since it can be harmed by strong direct sunlight.

    As mentioned above, the Iris flower is showy and very beautiful. It can be obtained in a wide range of color variations. The flower is typically shaped like a fan with six petals. The three inner petals are named "standards", while the three other petals are named "falls". The standards will rise above the rest of the flower and try to attract pollinators. Some Iris types have a "beard", i.e. the upper surface of the outer petals has a beard like feature. This beard is a service for pollinators; since they can land and grab hold of to the beard when they consume nectar.

    The Iris smells nice, but the fragrance is not particularly strong. The flower is located on a tall stem and an Iris will typically form a lot of flowers on one single stem. The Iris stems vary between the different Irises and can be hollow as well as solid, and simple and well as branched. The Iris leaves are shaped like small swords.

    Delicately blossomed Iris plants are called "Freesisas". The first Freesias were white and yellow, but today you can purchase hybrids in many different colors. You can for instance select blue, lilac, violet, pink and salmon colored Freesias. Freesisas have a delightful scent.

    They are more delicate than the other Iris flowers and you should not plant them in a region where the temperature can drop below 26 degrees. Freesisas are therefore popular indoor plants in the colder regions of the world. If you want to have an Iris that is similar to a Freesia, but with more vivid flowers, you should take a look at the Sparaxis plants. Sparaxis flowers are related to the Freesias, but form even more flamboyant flowers.

    More information about types of the Iris flower such as the Bearded Iris flower