Saturday, January 31, 2009

The Design Principle Of Unity In Gardening And Landscaping

Writen by Sandra Wilson

A principle of all art is unity. This means that each piece of art has one meaning. Creating landscaping or a flower garden should also incorporate this principle of unity. Your landscaping or flower garden is truly a work of art as much as any painting or sculpture.

Each work of art, large or small, should have one and only one meaning. Every part of the work of art, or in our case flower garden or landscaping, should contribute to this central or unifying meaning. Stated in physical terms, all parts of the landscaping should make one body of work with each part being subordinate to the whole. Every part which does not support in this effort must be removed, no matter how beautiful or interesting it may be in itself or so the principle of unity declares.

Unity taken to the extreme is monotony. When only one color, only one tone, or only one figure is used, the result may be monotonous. A garden planted with nothing but hollyhocks or a park with only red cedars would certainly be monotonous however beautiful the hollyhocks or cedars. Even so some believe it is better to have monotony than to lose unity. Indeed, in particular cases, monotony may be considered the height of artistic achievement.

The elimination of diverse colors, and forms, would tend towards unity. At least it would tend towards simplicity, which can be desirable in itself. Nearly all landscaping or gardening, in the hands of amateurs, shows too many forms, too many colors, and too many different kinds of plants. There are so many different kinds of plants and colors, you want to try them all. Fact is, the instances in which unity goes too far towards monotony are so rare, that these instances can be doubly interesting as curiosities.

Unity is frequently found through the development of functionality. If every part of the landscaping or flower garden has a definite and obvious practical pupose, then that dominating purpose can unify all the parts and pieces. Thus you can achieve unity.

In actual practice, the most powerful way to create unity lies in having a clear-cut motive and sticking to it. Essentially we mean, find a theme or subject for your landscaping or flower garden. Stick to it however tempting it is to not do so. In this way you can incorporate the principle of unity.

© 2005, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson. To find more articles with Gardening Tips visit our informative website, http://flowergardenlovers.com

Friday, January 30, 2009

A Touch Of Feng Shui In The Garden

Writen by Bonnie Moss

From the beliefs, culture and mythology of China, Feng Shui was born.

It is an ancient belief in the art of placement. Literally translated, Feng Shui means wind and water symbolizing the two major forces of nature. Feng Shui promotes a scientific and philosophical approach to design and site of a home, public building and spaces to maintain harmony with the nature. This harmony is believed to allow light from the spiritual realm to shine upon those who believe and adopt the principles to their home and environment.

Interpretation of this belief has expanded into many directions. Over the past few years, Feng Shui has swept through the Western world/ culture according to what's practical, adaptable and suitable.

This is the wonder of Feng Shui- it allows for differences, and innovation according to the beliefs of a particular culture. It inspires personal perspective and creativity. It fosters harmony between man and his environment.

Adapting some of the principles of Feng Shui encourages a gardener to create a place which radiates more than beauty to please the eye. It is the visual attraction of a garden that draws people to it. But be aware of unseen and subtle energies taking place in the garden. Have a garden that projects an aura of the mystical.

Today's gardener is no longer satisfied with just having abundance of plants and an array of colors. Today, a garden is an extension of the living space of a person or a family. It offers a place to entertain, a respite from the busy and chaotic world, a private space to relax and reflect, at times, a place to seek healing.

Sans the tools, a touch of Feng Shui, can enhance and actually generate positive vibrations outdoors and into the inner sanctum of the gardener.

With intuition, common sense and dedication, simple rules of Feng Shui can be applied. It promotes a garden that is friendly to Nature and ultimately infuse creative and vibrant energy and ensures the positive flow of chi.

Balance

Balance is a very important aspect of Life. It is the Yin/Yang in practice. It is opposing yet complementary. Tidbit: public parks exhibit the yang space, a private garden shows the yin.

A garden design that incorporates a balance of plants, ornaments and furniture is appealing to look at. If it's visually attractive, and it feels good, it is a gardener's pride and joy. The energy must be vibrant.

The Elements in Feng Shui

A little attention to the elements in a garden provide an atmosphere of peace and harmony.

Fire
Color: red, and purple
Plants with pointed leaves
Structures/ornaments: pyramids, obelisks,lights
trellis/ support for plants
This is a powerful element, don't let it dominate the area.

Wood
Color : green. All plants are wood element, it is the shape and color that suggest other elements.
Trees and shrubs strongly represent wood element. Structures/ ornaments: decking, planters, logs, and furniture

Earth
Color: yellow, orange, and brown
Structures/ornaments: soil, rocks, stones, walkways, fences
A walkway or fence that dominates the garden slows down the flow of chi.

Water
Color: dark blue, black
Structure/ornaments gravel, meandering paths, water features, glass.

Metal
Color: white, silver
Structure/ornaments: bowls, domes, and hammock, lead

Working with the elements:

The natural world beckons. Gardening has ignited passion for creating a magical world of plants, colors,ornaments and design, with Nature as the canvas for the artist. A garden fills a space that would otherwise be void and saturated with stale energy.

It is with the shapes, colors, garden ornaments and structures that spell balance and a way to introduce the elements to bring out positive energy and get the chi flowing.

Ponds are popular features, Perhaps unknowingly,ponds represent the lake, rocks and pebbles stand for the mountains. Water symbolizes wealth and a good collector of chi, so long as it is not stagnant. Careful choice of ornaments can create a balance of the elements in a pond.

Take a cue from Nature- it tries to achieve balance between shape and color. Whatever feature you add, proportion is important.

There are ways to remedy existing structures. Add some pots along a straight walkway to give it a feeling of meandering. Add a splash of colors to make it look interesting.

Appeal to the senses

Sight
A visually attractive garden touches upon the sub-conscious .It leaves an impression that can impact deep into the psyche. Clutter anywhere is annoying. It hinders the flow of chi. In the garden, it is important to keep it free of debris and clutter.

Arrangement of plants, mixing plants with a variety of color and blooming periods,and giving thought of the flowering season adds balance to a garden.

Sound
No one wants to live in a noisy neighborhood.There are sounds in the garden. Bees and birds bring about welcome sound. Gurgling water can be soothing. A bamboo wind chime sends out gentle sounds resembling the rustle of leaves. Don't rake the leaves too soon. Leave it for little while and listen as you crunch through in the fall.

Smell
The natural sweet scents from a garden is superior to the most expensive perfume. Enjoy the fragrance from your garden wafting through the air, especially with the evening breeze.

Touch
My four-year old great niece fascinates me when I see how carefully she touches things around the garden- from the little animal ornaments to the leaves, the rocks, stones and flowers. She does not pick the flowers, she tries to feel the softness with her little fingers. I have little colored stones at the bottom of a bowl that glimmers under the sun; she approaches these quietly as she timidly dips one little finger to feel them. No, nothing bites her fingers. She does this with so much concentration that anyone who watches her has to experience the sensation of "touching."

Other suggestions
For focus, use smaller potted plants in a group or one large pot
For abundance, fountains and water features
For illumination, lights for particular features
For stability use urns, large pots, rocks and stones
Show off your achievement or passion with art collection
Wind chimes to stir up energy and create movement
To receive gifts of the earth and the Universe, empty pots, dishes and urns.

This essay barely touches the basics of Feng Shui in the garden. But it is a start.

Reference: The Practical Encyclopedia of Feng Shui by Gill Hale

Bonnie Moss writes to inspire and to motivate her readers to explore the depths of their heart and soul. She draws from personal experience and her interest in the New Age respect for Mother Earth. Visit her website : http://goldencupcafe.tripod.com

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Water Gardens

Writen by Jeanette Joy Fisher

The placement of your water garden is your most important decision. You'll want to choose a spot that gets as much sunlight as possible, generally away from trees or bushes that shed their leaves, because most plants and fish require a fair amount of sunlight to thrive, and deciduous trees and shrubs can make keeping your water element a chore in the fall.

You're only limited by your budget, the size of your space, and your imagination, but always bear in mind that your water garden will require a certain amount of maintenance, which you'll have to do if you want your garden to continue to look great. If you incorporate fish into your garden scheme, they'll also need to be fed as part of your routine maintenance program.

If you use aquatic plants in your water garden, only cover about half the surface of the water. It will allow you to see your ornamental fish underneath. You may also want to plant flowers around the edge of your pond, and there are some plants that will actually add oxygen to the water, which is important, especially if you have fish in your pond. Fish can help keep the pond clean by eating insects.

Algae is one of the primary problems encountered by water gardeners, and it's often brought about by over fertilizing water plants or feeding fish too much or too often. For many years, people in England have used barley straw to help reduce the amount of string and filament type algae, but it may not work in every situation. If you experience algae problems--and you probably will--pay close attention to the feeding regime of both your fish and your water plants.

To keep your water oxygenated and fresh, you'll need a pond pump and filter, which can also help reduce insect and algae problems. Water plants also remove nutrients from the water that could create pollution problems. Some good plants include water hyacinths, water violets, and water crowfoot, if you bear in mind that they tend to reproduce vigorously and can quickly take over a pond.

Like all gardens, water gardens require a certain amount of care, but the results can give you years of pleasure.

Copyright © 2006 Jeanette J. Fisher

Jeanette Fisher has researched the effects of environment on emotions for over 15 years. She teaches interior design college courses and seminars. Free environmental design info: http://environmentpsychology.com

Backyard Birdthe Catbird

Writen by Gary Machado

It's quiet now.

Gone is the constant chatter, whistles and meowing sounds as you jump from branch to branch safeguarding your territory against all trespassers.

Gone too is the uniform gray body offset with the black cap and tail feathers, with just a smidgen of rust coloration under the tail coverts, that allows you to blend in with your natural habitat of dense udergrowth and thickets.

They call you a skulker, a bird hard to see in the dense underbrush. Usually heard but now seen.

Definitely NOT a backyard bird.

Except in my backyard.

Maybe it's because my back yard is filled with trees and dense undergrowth along the rear and side fences. Or maybe it's because there is a wooded area of trees and underbrush in the low-lying parcel of land across the street. Or maybe it's because of a reason I can't fully understand.

I know you don't stay becasue of my bird feeders, because you don't have birdseed in you diet. You prefer insects, spiders and fruit berries instead.

But whatever the reason, I'm grateful.

I'm grateful that you have chosen my yard as your place to breed and have chicks. And not just this year. But last year too. Definitely unusual.

I'm delighted to watch you jump and fly from one low hanging branch to another, or from one small tree to another, constantly chattering or meowing your right of territory.

But I never did get to see your mate's nest. You never led me there. So I don't know how many chicks you fledged and whether they all survived.

But it's late summer now. And it's quiet again.

Are you already heading south on your long migration journey? To southern Florida? Or Texas? Or even to eastern Mexico?

I understand that for this trip, you've teamed up with some other catbirds, so that you are in a group of a dozen or so. For protection? For guidance?

Whatever the reason, I hope your migration south and your return next year is successful. I would really like it if you or one of your chicks return to my yard. I look forward to your whistles and meowing as you defend your territory and build your nest.

But until next year, "skulker" catbird,

Goodbye...

Gary Machado has been a field and backyard birdwatcher for over 30 years. You may visit his site at: http://www.bird-feeders-and-more.com

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Managing Pond Motives And Expectations

Writen by Brett Fogle

INTRODUCTION

Water in the garden. It brings us refreshing coolness on the hottest summer day. It satisfies our senses with sounds that only water can make. It delights our eyes with the unsurpassed beauty of colorful water lilies, the glimmering iridescence of fish and reflections from the sky.

Water has immense attraction to all people. For centuries Europeans have enjoyed the beauty of fountains and water gardens in their public squares and private estates. Water gardens create "natural" focal points, whether located in the home garden, shopping mall, or office building.

This book is written to fill a void in today's selection of gardening books. A few books are sprinkled here and there, covering specific areas of water gardening such as plants and Koi, but this book is written to cover all facets of decorative water gardening for homeowners as well as professional landscapers and architects.

The word "pond" conjures up different images for different people. Some envision a farm pond with a dirt bottom, fed by a creek bed and alive with ducks and frogs. Others see a mossy-covered goldfish pool in the corner of a yard. For our purposes, the word "pond" will be used in the Webster's Dictionary sense: "artificially enclosed body of water; a body of standing water smaller than a lake, often artificially formed." In this book you'll also find some of the newer terms - aquasphere, aquatic habitat, aquatic environment, or waterscape.

The reasons for considering a water garden are varied. Commercial landscape architects use water in their designs for effect and uniqueness. Homeowners want to exchange their rakes, lawn mowers and weedeaters for a work free garden. Others desire a pond "just like grandpa always had," yet most of us are simply looking for a garden to enjoy, a haven for relaxation.

Water does have a relaxing affect, whether it be the rhythmic waves of the ocean, a gently running brook, or the quiet beauty of a pond. While we may be unable to recreate nature with oceans and brooks, we can find pleasure in designing and building ponds.

MOTIVES

Before deciding on a water garden, consider your motives. Ask yourself the following questions:

* Why do I want a pond?
* Am I trying to save work for myself?
* Do I want a part of nature in my own backyard?
* Am I looking for a fishpond? Or a plant pond? A fountain or waterfall?
* Do I want to cool off in the pond?
* Do I want to convert a swimming pool?

Am I looking for a focal point in the yard or simply a subtle blend of plants and fish? Many people think water gardening means digging a hole, filling it in with water, plants and fish, and that's all there is to it. While it's true that established ponds require minimal work, prospective water gardeners should realize that a certain amount of responsibility goes with a pond garden.

When you build a pond, you're putting in a natural habitat, something that is "alive" and "breathing" with plants and animals. Plants live and grow in this natural habitat; natural gas exchanges are going on; birds, bugs, fish, frogs and animals come to visit and drink from you pond. In other words, you're doing more than just cementing an area in the yard and filling it with water. You are bringing nature into your surroundings.

EXPECTATIONS

Prospective water gardeners should also examine their expectations. What do you want from your pond?

Before starting construction, you should decide if you want a fishpond, a fish and plant pond, a fountain, or a waterfall. For example, a Koi pond without plants will be constructed differently than ponds containing both fish and plants.

Do you want you pond to be a focal point - something that stands out dramatically with waterfalls or spraying fountains? Or is your life hectic and frenzied, so you're looking for a quiet haven for meditation and relaxation?

If you expect a low maintenance, relaxing environment, you'll find it in water gardening. You may wonder how water gardening can be effortless. The answer is nature. Properly planned water gardens achieve an ecological balance of water, plants, fish, and snails.

Water ponds answer a multitude of expectations, but the final decision on what you want from your water garden must come from you.

2005 Brett Fogle

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at our website.

Safety On Lawn Tractors

Writen by Andrew Caxton

Every gardener riding a lawn tractor should be concerned about safety. But, most homeowners don't take much time thinking on how risky can be driving lawn tractors. It is obvious the indestructible feelings that you feel when driving a large lawn tractor. You are there, sitting on top of a extremely powerful machine which responds to your orders instantly. However, there are many things, not desired, that can happen very quickly, putting you as operator and others in a terrible danger. Statistics out there say that year after year, many people experience lawn tractors accidents due to either an incorrect or unsafely use.

Lawn tractors are probably the most powerful tool you might offer to any garden. They are the best solution for advanced landscapers. Lawn tractors will help those people who don't have much time to take care of their large lawns. Among many other features, they are reliable, efficient, extremely fast as well as really easy to drive, getting a lot of fun while working, what else do you need?. Nevertheless, not everything is gold what it shines; they can be double-edge weapons for those who don't respect the safety requirements. A lawn tractor is a dangerous equipment, so use it consciously and following the manual's operator.

Here you have some important points to have in mind when driving a lawn tractor:

  • Clear the mowing area from objects that could avoid a fluent work. This is a very important premise that most homeowners forget. It might happen to run over a small piece of metal or hardwood. This will risk you to send the piece in question out the side of the lawn tractor, and therefore injure anyone within hundred feet around the operator.
  • Wear always safety wear when operating power tools. Thick shoes can save your feet, if they get close to the lawn tractor's sharpen blades. And wearing goggles is as simple as protect your eyes from flying insects direct impacts.
  • No matter what they say, you must keep safety shields in place on the tractor. You never know when these guards will be required.

Driving Experience When Riding Lawn Tractors

You, as an experienced lawn tractor driver, might be thinking on the years of experience you've got over the years. Even though your considerable driver skills and how conscientious you are with your tractor, you never have to trust on power machines, and should be aware all the time. At http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com, we try to be aware of all gardening tools, because we know how important is the safety throughout your garden for you and your family.

What are the most typical mistakes when operating a lawn tractor? As we have said above, not cleaning the mowing area can be quite dangerous, but there is no choice when the lawn tractor blades are exposed. Try to use blades guards in order to decrease the cutting risk when operating those tractors designs, whose mowing blades are totally exposed. Landscapers always think that anything can happen to them, because they know everything relating to lawn mowers and garden tractors. Please, be as careful as you can, especially when riding a tractor on an incline. It might tip over and therefore creating the chance of blades falling down over you., it could happen, why not? Most mower and tractor manufacturers are designing currently machines with the weight evenly distributed. This will avoid the tipping over easily.

One sentence we want to insert into gardeners' minds is : The more prepared you are for any kind of circumstance concerning accidents and safety, the better off you will be. Just remember to wear lawn tractors safety equipment, including goggles, thick shoes and gloves if necessary. If you ignore one of the small safety details when riding these machines, you could end up reproaching yourself why did not you do it. Gardening injuries are as typical as many others and lawn tractors are not a child's game.

Andrew Caxton is a successful author who contributes adding articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com - A specialized lawn care website that carries articles on different models of riding lawn mowers and lawn tractors.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Constructing A Garden Path

Writen by Philip Swindells

A well-laid path is essential for the successful management of every garden. The direction that it takes must be very clearly thought through to ensure its efficiency. It must be arranged so that there are no temptations to cut corners across the lawn or flower beds and yet as far as possible it should be unobtrusive.

Like the garden itself, a path should be properly drained, especially if it is to be constructed from gravel or a similar porous material. Surrounding ground must also be drained in such a way that the path does not become a watercourse during periods of heavy rain or after snow-melt in colder districts. The scouring out of neatly raked gravel by fast-flowing ground water can be a great source of irritation.

Before construction, consider the possibility of the path also being the line that takes services. Water and electricity can very conveniently be directed along the line of the path so that there is never any danger of interference from cultivation. It is ill-advised to place such services beneath a solid path, such as concrete, but ready access can be gained through gravel, or beneath a paved path.

A sound foundation is vital, even for a simple gravel path. If a generous layer of stone foundation is not laid down first of all it is almost certain that mud will squeeze through and within a season the path will become an unpleasant mud and gravel mixture which will then play host to weeds. Prevent this by using fabric landscape matting laid over the soil in the path area before spreading the gravel. Such material permits water to seep through, but prevents the mud from squeezing upwards.

There are all kinds of gravel and gravel-like materials that can be used for path construction, but all require a proper edging to retain the material. Many gardeners choose 15mm (1/2in) gravel as this is substantial and looks good. It is not the best utility choice though for it is quite difficult to push a wheelbarrow or pushchair over and it creates havoc with high-heeled shoes.

Fine shingle makes a far better surface providing that it is not scattered too liberally. However the best of all is self-binding gravel. This is of gravel-like appearance but of such a texture that it binds together in a neat hard surface. Once laid it merely needs rolling with a garden roller. Crushed limestone can also serve the purpose, but it tends to become dusty during dry weather and stick to shoes on wet days. It can also increase the alkalinity of nearby soil.

Concrete is a serviceable but harsh option, which if laid properly with expansion joints, will last indefinitely. It is not a comfortable path to walk along or work from in hot weather, as there is considerable reflection and glare. The same applies to some of the modern paving slabs made from reconstituted stone. Select these with great care choosing softer more subtle colors to reduce discomfort. Also carefully select the surface. There are a number of more or less non-slip surfaces available; the most natural looking of which is referred to as riven paving.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively overseas. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers' Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He writes a popular daily gardening blog with gardening news, views and updates http://www.gardenmessenger.blogspot.com/.

Why Do Flowers Inspire Me So Much

Writen by Willie Jones

I grew up in a very cold climate where winter seemed go on for 6 months and ice, snow and barren trees is what you saw on a daily basis. Plus the bone chilling cold and cloudy skies all made for a long dreary winter.

I can remember as a child sitting by the living room window looking out at the snow, trying to remember what the grass looked like. I would sit there longing for spring and summer.

Spring to me was a promise of warm sunny days to come and I always felt my spirits lift as the snow melted and trees would start to bud. It was also the time when the lilacs bloomed and the fragrance was heavenly.

This was the time we would plant our flower gardens and the annuals would start to bloom. My mother had a thing for petunias and tiger lilies so we planted them every year. For me they were a source of fascination. I loved the colors and shapes and I would closely scrutinize them. Even as a child if I felt a bit down, I would go outside and look at the flowers and insects until I felt better. It worked every time.

One day as I was looking at the flowers I decided that when I grew up I was going to be a florist. Time went on and I forgot about it. I married and raised a family. After the kids grew up and moved away I was looking for a change of direction in my life and suddenly remembered wanting to be a florist and that is what I did.

I still find beauty in all kinds of flowers. I also developed an appreciation for trees and shrubs. I have based my floral designs on how things naturally grow. A huge old magnificent tree can be an inspiration for a floral design.

The next time you are feeling down or just need to be relieved from daily stress, try taking a walk and really look at nature. You may be surprised at the calming affect it may have on you.

Enjoy!

Willie Jones is a freelance writer, researcher, floral designer, and artist, for Art Inspires, Inc. Make sure you enroll in the free motivational poster drawing at http://www.artinspires.com

Monday, January 26, 2009

House Plant Care A Guide For Your Container Garden

Writen by Mary Hanna

Through the years many plants were considered to be only greenhouse subjects rather then house plants. That, thankfully, has changed and many species can be considered as house plants to decorate your home. Here is a house plant guide to the basics of caring for your plants also known as container gardens. It is best to choose plants that have thick leathery foliage. The reason they can withstand heated rooms is that they have tough leaves and can withstand adverse conditions. This also cuts down on house plant care. It is wise however, to keep the foliage free of dust so as not to interfere with the plants pores.

It pays to get your house plants ready for indoor life. If it is possible buy your plants when you no longer need to heat your home. This way they will get plenty of fresh air to harden the developing foliage, giving it strength against a hot dry atmosphere of heated rooms. This is especially important for tropical house plants. If you buy a tropical plant, such as a begonia, keep it in a room that is warm and moist, like a bathroom. They thrive on moisture and because of the steam from showers tropical house plants will get the necessary humidity.

To keep house plants species hardy they must be in a cool a place as possible. An unheated room that does not fall below 45 degrees is ideal. If you have a very cold spell, bring the plants into a heated room but be sure to get them back to the cool atmosphere as soon as possible. If you have a very large house plant that is not easily moved cover it with material, like several layers of burlap, to shield it from the elements.

When it comes to house plant care, watering is usually the trickiest. The amount of water will depend on how fast the plant absorbs the moisture. Obviously, a house plant that is in active growth requires more water than a dormant one. A good rule of thumb for house plant care is that they will require more water during the growing months, April through October. All container gardens should be watered when relatively dry. Sufficient water should be given to the house plant to reach to the drainage hole. This is important because the feeding roots closest to the bottom need water to continue growth.

A good trick for house plant care is to tap the pots half way down with your knuckles. If there is a hollow sound the plant needs water. But, if you hear a dull sound there is still plenty of water. The exception here is if the soil has been compacted firmly into the pots, then you will always here a hollow sound. If possible use rain water for house plant care. If you cannot use rain water on your container gardens, you can use tap water. Be sure to inspect your house plants daily to see if they need moisture.

If the tips of your foliage turn a sickly yellow you are over watering the plant. Do not water it again until the soil is quite dry. Over watering will also cause a moss or algae to grow on the soil. This must be removed, then use a sharp stick to aerate the house plant.

Another task of house plant care is feeding the plant. Plants that have rooted well and are growing freely need the most feeding. This extra nourishment is especially needed from May to August. Flowering house plants benefit by feeding them as soon as there flower buds appear. There are many types of fertilizers, speak to the people at your garden center to find the right one for your house plants.

These are some tips on caring for house plants. Keep your house plants feed, watered and clean so that you will have years of enjoyment and beauty.

Happy Container Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Cruising, Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.GardeningHerb.com http://www.CruiseTravelDirectory.com and http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com

Artificial Trees Advantages

Writen by Mads Phican

Choosing an artificial tree gives you a lot of advantages when compared with real trees:

First of all, an artificial tree is a lot easier to maintain. It doesn't need any water, fertilizer or sunlight – all it need is to be cleaned once in a while.

An artificial tree does not need to be cut down as it will always stay the same size. We all know how normal trees can overgrow your home and create undesired shadows. Something like that will not happen with an artificial tree.

Artificial trees can be planted everywhere. The climate doesn't matter, you can have palm trees in Alaska if you want it (although it might look a bit out of this world).

There will be no problem with insects and other animals. You really have to be unlucky before your artificial tree becomes the nest of a disgusting bug colony.

Finally, you can easily move your tree around if its not to big or even pack it away for a few months. People bringing their trees with them when they move are not unheard of.

Most artificial tree look very life like, but for the ultimate experience it might be desirable to go for a preserved tree. While artificial trees are normally made of plastic, a preserved tree is made of natural materials around an empty trunk. The natural materials will even make the artificial tree smell the right way.

M. Phican is very excited about artificial gardening and have created a website dedicated to artificial trees and palm trees. http://www.artificialtreeinfo.com

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Herbs Growing Your Own

Writen by Andy Wiley

The first thing you need to do when deciding to create your own Herb Garden is to decide on the size of the plot of land you want to use. This will depend on what herbs and how much you want to grow. Unless you are an experienced gardener or a herb fanatic don't make your plot too big at first. Remember, you can always add to it later. You can create a raised bed to grow your herbs in and always add more when you decide you need to grow more. Remember to plan out your planting sequence and keep records of what is planted where as well as marking your planting with plastic nametags.

You need to remember that most herbs usually like well-drained soil so start your bed with a good layer of gravel that will help drainage. Place your soil on top of this but remember to add some compost into this. If you have a free draining soil to start with you should be able to manage without the gravel. Make sure your plot is in full sun as many herbs originate in the Mediterranean region.

Most herbs can be sown from seed so you can buy these from your local nursery. You can also buy small plants fort transplanting but there is nothing more satisfying than doing all the work yourself so try to grow from seed first. If you don't succeed then try small plants later but remember to read the label, as some plants such as coriander do not transplant very well.

Remember that you can also grow many herbs in small tubs or window boxes and can even grow them on your windowsill. Try planting Basil over the winter as long as it is indoors as Basil is a frost tender plant and will die after a single light frost. You can also try starting your seeds off early in the year to plant out as soon as the risk of frost has passed. An early start will give you herbs for longer. If you plant out too early you can always try covering your tender plants with fleece to keep the frosts off. If you live in a frost-free place, get cracking now.

About The Author

Andy Wiley is a budding gardener, chef and internet writer. Check out his new site at http://www.healthy-herbs.com.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Use Adirondack Furniture To Create Your Outside Living Area

Writen by Jennifer Akre

Today, homeowners are considering their patio area as another room that flows into the outdoors. Adirondack furniture can be used to create an outdoor living area to relax on a beautiful day, read a book, or entertain friends and family in. Teak furniture is an indoor and outdoor favorite because of its durability and beauty. If you have a garden to show off, a place to watch the kids play or want to entertain, you will find Adirondack furniture is the best choice for your outside space. Your individual needs, the family budget, available space, and your homes design will all influence your choices.

Creating an outdoor living space is as easy as just bringing your indoor style to the outdoors. No matter what your focal point, or room design, you'll want to choose furniture that is weather resistant and matches the mood you are trying create. A pair of cedar Adirondack chairs is a perfect place to start and is great for kicking back and relaxing in a casual setting. The soft grey patina that wooden furniture acquires over time will enable the chairs to blend into all kinds of outdoor landscapes for years to come.

Adirondack chairs make it possible to provide individual seating without using tables. The flat, broad arms featured on the chairs are ideal for setting food and drinks. This feature comes in handy when entertaining or relaxing with a cool beverage on a warm summer day. Crafted of wood, usually cedar or teak, the Adirondack chair is best known for its sloped-back and deep seat. The classic comfortable design is so popular that the Adirondack style is also been translated in other pieces of furniture such as gliders and garden benches. The main idea is to find ways to turn your outdoor space into a living space and one that is a joy to use.

The outdoor living space you create can display stunning beauty all its own. When using Adirondack furniture you have several functional and decorative options when it comes to designing your outside living area. Each feature should be considered in terms of style, durability and cost. You may choose to spend more money on traditional teakwood Adirondack chairs, loungers and tables, or choose a more modern style with less expensive painted furniture. Regardless of your choice, creating an outdoor "room" will expand your living space, add beauty to your home and value to your property.

Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous outdoor furniture, patio furniture, and home decor websites, makes it easy to find quality Painted Adirondack Chairs and Adirondack Furniture . Learn how to decorate your outdoor patio and garden in style - Click to satisfy your garden furniture needs: eAdirondackStyle.com.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Gardening Keeping Containers Looking Good

Writen by Michael Russell

The most inspiring container displays are grown by gardeners who have developed a real feel for their plants and can tell at a glance when they are in need of water, food, a bigger pot or just a good tidy up. If you play doctor with them, your plant will reward you with luxuriant growth. Professional growers achieve this by keeping their plants growing steadily throughout the seasons, so they never suffer from a check in growth by being starved or dried out. It's not rocket science but having a few pieces of essential maintenance equipment to hand is one of the keys to success.

A well balanced, long necked watering can turns watering from a chore to a pleasure. A fine rose on the end of the spout is ideal for soaking seedlings and plug plants without washing them away.

Give container grown plants a liquid feed every seven to ten days. If this seems too much of a commitment use push in feed pellets that deliver nutrients every time you water during the growing season. Water retaining granules can also be mixed into the potting compost before planting up. They are especially useful for hanging baskets or window boxes on south facing sills where they can make the difference between watering once rather than twice a day during hot, windy weather.

Just as having a dog to walk gets you up in the morning, so will having a mobile garden to tend to. Get into a watering routine and you will make light work of it. Water in the morning or evening to reduce evaporation and try to avoid splashing the leaves as this will cause them to scorch when exposed to strong sunlight. At holiday time, move your containers to a shady wall and stand them on special moisture retentive capillary matting fed from a tin bath of water.

In the Autumn, winter and spring months, plants need much less water, although it is surprising how a series of hard frosts can strip the moisture from the compost and this can only be replenished when the compost has thawed out. When the weather's particularly severe, it pays to gather your containers under a warm house wall where they will escape the worst of the weather.

Deadhead your plants regularly as soon as flowers fade. This will encourage a fresh flush of flower buds. Spent flowers left on the plant will usually inhibit further flower production, however, not all spent flowers need to be removed. Busy Lizzies and those super vigorous petunias carry on regardless. Some like marigolds can be snapped off. Others like pansies and nasturtiums can be nipped off by pinching them with your fingernails.

For bushy fuschias and chrysanthemums with lots of blooms, pinch back shoots regularly. Do this by simply nipping off the tips of the shoots. At the end of summer be ruthless and throw annuals past their best onto the compost heap. However, some plants sold for bedding can be propagated from cuttings in late summer or dug up and over-wintered in a frost free greenhouse or porch. They have the potential to get bigger and better every year.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Gardening

How To Keep Your Brick Patio Weed Free

Writen by Hans Dekker

Brick Patio Weed Control

In researching this article, I found one instance where a homeowner was so incensed by the weeds in her patio that she set fire to them with a blowtorch!

Luckily, several items provide better service as a weeding tool and there are several better alternatives for brick patio weed control.

Of course, the best method of brick patio weed control is proper installation of your brick patio.

Start with an under-layment of pea gravel, topped by a layer of sturdy landscape cloth and cover with it with a layer of sand.

This will give your brick patio a firm footing as well as cramp the style of any weeds in the area.

Nevertheless, if your brick patio is already installed and running rampant with weeds, here are some tips to help you succeed in to keep it weed free without a lot of agonizing work.

First, to make your brick patio weed control plan a success, implement your plan before weeds flower. This keeps weeds from going to seed and helps make a short-term plan last for a longer time.

For the following tip and other tips that involve weed dousing of one sort or another, use a piece of cardboard or scrap of Plexiglas to protect nearby plants.

One of the best ways to kill a vegetable of any kind is to cook it.

Boiling water is a natural and very inexpensive weed-wilter and works to kill most forms of annual weeds. It also kills or weakens many types of perennial weeds.

A teakettle is your weeding tool. Fill it with water and bring it to a boil. While you're waiting (because a watched pot never boils, you know!) go outside and cut the culprits down to their crowns.

When the water begins to boil, grab the kettle (using a potholder) and pour the water on the crowns of the weeds, holding the kettle high enough only to avoid splashing. Killing weeds with boiling water will also scald any biological organisms that get splashed, but more will return as soon as the soil cools.

Vinegar will kill most weeds. However, grocery store vinegar is normally a 5% solution and is too weak to do the job. Ten-percent vinegar will kill most weeds and usually is found where canning and pickling supplies are sold.

A 20% solution of vinegar kills really stubborn weeds, but is frequently more than twice as expensive as 10%. Try to control the weeds with the 10% before you make the investment in a stronger solution.

Spray the vinegar directly on the weeds, using the shield mentioned above and taking care not to inhale fumes. You may also want to wear gloves and eye protection as a further safeguard.

In my experience these measures will keep all brick patio's free from weed without a lot of back breaking work.

We love to share our gardening ideas and hear yours.

Hans is an enthusiast gardener, he loves to share his gardening ideas and hear about yours. He is one of the authors of : http://www.gardening-guides.com and http://www.patio-furniture-ideas.com.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

What Does It Take To Design And Build Your Own Fire Pit

Writen by Nicole Martins

There are many alternatives to creating a fire pit other than buying a firepit model that is ready-made and requires some simple assembly. If you are a do-it-yourselfer looking to design and build your own fire pit you don't need a fancy set of blueprints, just a vision of the type of pit you are looking to create.

What does it take these days to build fire pits for outdoor campfires and barbequing?

The answer is not a lot. In terms of cost, building a wood burning pit can cost next to nothing and require no more than a few hours of physical labor (especially if you have materials such as rock or brick on hand) to see the fireplace complete.

First pick a safe area for your fire pit, away from any structures that can catch fire and definitely out of the way of backyard traffic. Be sure to check with you local fire department for information and codes. You need to know what the rules are before getting started. Getting going will entail quarrying up some fieldstones or brick to line the inside dirt walls of the pit once you've dug the hole. Not to get ahead of ourselves here, but you will need a good old shovel and some back strength to excavate soil. Position your fieldstone or brick around the holes perimeter and extend these materials above ground. The purpose of installing these materials is to keep wind down and the soil away from the fire.

You can also build a stucco pit above ground or think of other creative ways of building your pit; magazines or the internet are a great source for tips and ideas. When considering a design you'll want to keep with the look of your home and other existing structures. If you don't have time to dream up design ideas or if you had something more complex in mind, you can order a set of plans online complete with material list, for only a small fee.

Once you have finished building, be sure to keep safety in mind. An in ground hearth is a permanent outdoor fixture. You may want to keep it covered when not in use; you can find inexpensive scrap metal and have it cut to fit. Another option is to buy a basic fire pit which should include cover, spark screen, log grill and such and then build your stone or brick wall around it (see http://www.outdoor-fireplaces-and-patio-heaters.com/outdoor-fire-pit.htm ). This limits the chances of children or pets accidentally running into an exposed fire pit and getting burned.

If you want to build a gas fire pit, shop for either gas fire logs with or without embers or choose a simple metal fire ring: both ideas will allow you to design the housing for the fireplace and come up with your own plan.

Whatever you decide, either to build your own or buy one manufactured, a fire pit is a beneficial addition to your outdoor space, allowing you to grill outdoors or to stay warm on cool evenings.

Nicole Martins is a contributing writer and researcher to Outdoor Fireplaces and Patio Heaters, an online resource providing you with information and reviews of popular outdoor heaters, fire pits and fireplaces. You can visit this site at: http://www.outdoor-fireplaces-and-patio-heaters.com

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

This Is How You Grow Sprouts

Writen by Travis Waack

Sprouts not only taste good, but they are also a great source of vitamins, fiber, protein, anti-oxidants, and enzymes. A sprout is produced when a seed starts growing into a vegetable. Sprouts can grow from the seeds of vegetables, from grains such as buckwheat, and from beans. While Mung beans are perhaps the most common source of sprouts, you can also obtain good results from lentils, soybeans and chickpeas just to name a few.

Sprouts can be grown almost anywhere and the best part is you only need a few basic supplies to get started. By following a few simple steps, you can receive a continual supply of nutritious sprouts.

While there are several commercial products available to cultivate sprouts, here are three of the easiest methods to help you get started.

- Growing Sprouts in Flower Pots -

1. Start with a clean clay or plastic flower pot. Make sure there is a hole in the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage. Then place a piece of cheesecloth or muslin in the bottom of the pot over the hole so that the seeds/beans cannot fall out.

2. Next, soak the seeds or beans overnight and then put them in the pot. Remove any that are broken or damaged. Cover the plant pot with a dish.

3. Once a day, hold the pot under running water for a few minutes. This is to soak the seeds/beans thoroughly.

4. Once the sprouts begin to show, remove the dish and cover the pot with a piece of clear plastic wrap to let in the light. Place the sprouting pot near a window that allows daylight but is not in direct sunlight.

- Growing the Sprouts in Trays -

1. Soak the seeds or beans overnight. Remove any that are broken or damaged before you begin the sprouting process.

2. Select a low, flat dish (like a pie plate) or tray. You can purchase growing trays wherever planting supplies are sold.

3. Next, spread out a 2-inch layer of soil and then sprinkle the soaked seeds or beans on top of the soil.

4. Cover the seeds/beans with four layers of damp newspaper.

5. Cover the top of the tray with clear plastic wrap.

6. When the sprouts start to lift the plastic cover, (usually about three days) remove the newspaper.

7. Place the tray in a window so that the light can turn the sprouts green. You will need a space to place the sprouting tray that receives daylight but is not in direct sunlight.

8. Because the thin layer of soil dries out quickly, water twice each day.

9. After about 8-10 days, you will have sprouts tall enough to harvest.

- Growing Sprouts in a Jar -

1. Soak the seeds, grains, or beans in lukewarm water overnight in a wide-mouth glass jar. Remove any that are broken or damaged before you begin the sprouting process. (Sprouting increases the seed volume. 4- tablespoons will be sufficient for a quart size container.)

2. In the morning, pour off the water in the jar and rinse the seeds/beans thoroughly.

3. Place a piece of cheesecloth or muslin over the mouth of the jar. Use a rubber band to hold the material securely in place. This makes rinsing easier.

4. To keep the sprouts constantly damp, repeat the rinsing 2-3 times a day. Remember to drain any excess water because the sprouts should not stand in water.

5. Keep the jar away from the light for the first few days.

6. When the seeds/beans begin to sprout, (usually about the forth day) move the jar into the light to activate the chlorophyll and turn the sprouts green.

- Harvesting and Storing the Sprouts -

Newly germinated grain, seed, and sprouts, increase in food value in the very first period of growth.

Grains should be harvested and eaten from when they are six days old until they are 4-5 inches tall.

To harvest, just take your kitchen scissors and cut what you need.

Sprouts from beans, peas, etc., are ready earlier and can be eaten when they are 3-6 days old, depending on the type of sprout. For spouts grown in no soil or in seed trays, you can harvest the green "grass" when it starts to grow. Sprouts, from grain sown in jars, are ready sooner and are edible even before they turn green. Seeds sown in soil take a little longer.

If necessary, wash the sprouts thoroughly to remove the seed coat. Sprouts need to be stored in the refrigerator once they are ready to eat. Put the sprouts in tight sealing bags, and they will remain flavorful and crisp for one to two weeks. Rinsing the sprouts daily under cold water can extend their life.

Sprouts may be frozen by blanching them over steam for three minutes and then cooling them in ice water. Drain them and pack into freezer containers.

- Some of the Kinds of Seeds/Beans You Can Sprout -

The following list gives some of the popularly sprouted seeds/beans. It is not all inclusive as you can sprout almost any kind of seed. Remember that seeds soak up 2-3 times their dry volume in water and sprouts need at least six times the volume occupied by the seeds. So be sure that your container is large enough, and start with a minimal amount of seed in a container like a jar, until you determine the correct quantity that will grow to the sprout size you like, without being difficult to remove.

Your local garden shop or health food store will carry a line of seeds for sprouting. When purchasing seeds for sprouting, be certain that the seeds are intended for food and not for planting. This precaution is necessary because some seeds meant for planting have been treated with fungicides or insecticides to protect the young seedlings when planted in a field or garden.

Alfalfa - should be soaked for 6-12 hours. The seeds can be planted in the pots or jars and also in the flats with soil. 1-part seed gives 10-parts sprouts in approximately 5-6 days. Sprouts can be eaten after 3 days. When the root is 1-2 inches long, it will begin to develop tiny green leaves. At this stage, it needs to be eaten immediately so the plant will not switch to photosynthesis that exhausts the stored food in the seed.

Peas - when soaked in a glass jar, will grow sprouts in about 3 days. When the roots are 2-inches long, they are ready to eat. 1-part peas gives 2-parts sprouts.

Lentils - can be grown in either a glass jar or a plant pot and need to be soaked for 12-hours. The sprouts are ready in 3-4 days. Lentil sprouts are ready to be eaten when the root is 1-inch long. 1-part lentils gives 6-parts sprouts.

Barley, Oats, and Rye - should be soaked for 12-hours and then can either be grown as "grass" to harvest, or sprouts ready to eat after 3-4 days. The ideal length for eating is about 1/2-inch. 1-part seed gives 2-parts sprouts.

Soybeans - can be grown in a glass jar or a pot. They need to be soaked for 12-hours and sprouts are usually ready after 3-5 days. They are ready to eat when the root is 2-inches long. 1-part beans gives 4-parts sprouts.

Mung Beans - after soaking for 12-hours, these beans can be grown by any method. Mung beans are the most commonly grown sprouts and are usually ready to eat after 3-5 days. When the bright, white root grows from 1-2 inches long, they are ready to eat. 1-part beans gives 4-parts sprouts.

By growing your own sprouts, you will save yourself money because it is less expensive to buy sprout seeds and grow and harvest the sprouts yourself, than it is to buy the sprouts from a market.

Sprouting at home takes only a few minutes a day, and can produce a good part of your daily requirements of the nutrients you need from fresh produce. The hassles are minor, the costs are low, and the freshness is wonderful.

Travis Waack is an author and webmaster. You may view a collection of alternative health resources at http://alternative-health-info.com/nutrition.html

Plastic Pond Liners

Writen by Eric Morris

Ponds need Pond Liners like a building needs a foundation. Among all the materials used for Pond Liners, plastic is the most versatile. It comes in two forms- pre-formed and flexible.

Preformed or rigid plastic liners are strong and long-lasting. They are made of polythene and other recycled plastic material. They do not develop leaks. They are more cost-effective than concrete. An average gardener can set up a small pond within one day using this liner.

Some of these models are fitted above the ground and some below the ground. Rocks and stones may be placed around it to give a natural look. The liners may be both UV- as well as frost-resistant. But they may be difficult to fit because of their different shapes and sizes.

Among the preformed models, the plastic liners may be cheaper than fiberglass, but do not offer support for free-standing use of the pond in a raised water garden. It is difficult to build around a plastic pond and support it evenly. When support is not uniform there is a danger that the plastic liner will crack.

Flexible Pond Liners are also available, like PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) and HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene).These liners are not as flexible as rubber. Plastic liners are often used on large holding ponds when economy is a bigger concern than flexibility.

Large ponds require a Pond Liner that is safe for fish and aquatic plant life, inexpensive, easy to install and durable. Polyethylene fits the bill. Medium-density Polyethylene contains up to 5 percent carbon black, which makes it highly UV stable and suited to outdoor life. Twenty and 30 mm polyethylene can be custom-made according to your specifications.

PVC, or Polyvinyl Chloride, has excellent chemical compatibility and puncture resistance, lending itself to membrane liner applications. Some PVC liners contain UV stabilizers which protect them from breaking down when exposed to sunlight. PVC is not a crystalline membrane liner material, so it can elongate in all directions. It is the most cost-effective buried membrane and it has the longest successful use of liner material.

Another plastic is Polypropylene. It has special properties, like outstanding dimension stability, low coefficient of expansion and contraction, wide temperature seaming range, good chemical resistance and no stress cracking.

Plastic has its plusses and minuses, and the choice depends on the individual's requirements.

Pond Liners provides detailed information about pond liners, garden pond liners, preformed pond liners, rubber pond liners and more. Pond Liners is the sister site of Natural Waterfalls.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Healthy Soils Equal Bountiful Harvest

Writen by Fred Davis

Spring will be upon us before you know it, and it's about time to give some serious thought to the quality and content your garden's soil—that literal foundation for all things happening in the garden. Soils are at the heart and soul of successful gardening. Yet soils are almost universally the single most neglected "key" to gardening success!

Who in his right mind would even think of building a home without first providing a strong and reliable foundation for it to rest upon? Just as the man in the New Testament who built his house upon a bed of unstable sand soon lost it to wind and rain, the gardener who builds a home for plants without a good foundation—neglecting to thoroughly prepare the soil and become aware of its nutritional content and capacity—is destined to witness the rapid decline and demise of his or her hard work!

To be honest, if not downright blunt, if you don't do a real bang-up job of preparing the soil (the "foundation") before you plant, you'd probably be better off seeding it in wildflowers or green-tinted asphalt. That's how important soil preparation really is. Remember: it is a vital, yet widely neglected, key to successful gardening.

How do you achieve the almost perfect, deep, rich, dark and loose soil? It takes a full-size spade, plenty of elbow grease, usually a considerable amount of organic matter, and an almost infinite amount of persistence and patience.

Some prefer to prepare their garden plot with a small rototiller, but little tillers simply cannot get the job done right. Most tillers are made to scratch the surface down to about four—maybe five—inches deep. A home garden sized machine that'll cut six inches is a rarity. Tillers do have their purpose but it usually comes later, after the real work is done.

Most shovels cut eleven or twelve inches deep...and that's what you should do: drive that shovel straight down right to the hilt and turn the soil completely upside-down. Pick out any weeds, stones, roots or anything else that doesn't belong. A good sharp edge on your shovel helps cut through tree feeder-roots. Break soil lumps into small particles. Watch for destructive soil insects—wireworms, grubs and cutworms, for example—and send any you find into eternal oblivion.

A few gardening authorities suggest what's called "double-digging" which involves digging another ten or twelve inches below that, into the subsoil. While it may work in the Great Plains states, that kind of soil-depth luxury isn't seen very often in the shallow, stony topsoils of Northern New England. Do the best you can.

Continue turning the soil over until the whole plot is upside-down, cleaned up, and broken into little pieces. Now comes the fun part: add a healthy layer (two to four inches) of rich, dark compost or well-rotted animal waste. If your soil is clay and tends to be dense, "sticky" and easily compacted, an additional inch or two of coarse organic material like shredded leaves or straw will help loosen it up. It's not a good idea to add sand to clay soil...you may end up with something like concrete. Peatmoss will help to loosen clay soil, but may strain your early spring budget. (A common misconception, widely encouraged by the peatmoss marketing industry, pronounces that this very old organic material adds health and vitality to just about any soil. Not so: peatmoss, as it comes out of the bag, is as close to nutritionally and biologically dead as it can possibly be. Don't rely on peatmoss to add life and plant food to your garden. . .it can't do that.)

Now turn and mix it all loosely into your topsoil. Once again, cut in as deeply as you can with a good spade. Avoid walking on it after that—if you've done your job well, you'll sink past your ankles and compact your soil. I keep a couple of old 12-inch-wide boards handy to walk on while planting or doing any raking or furrowing.

One final important "key" completes the story: we use a lot of bonemeal in our fields and gardens. Bonemeal is high in phosphorus (usually 12 or 16). Bonemeal encourages and promotes flowers and fruit, strong stems and roots, foliage that can handle most summer abuse and, most importantly, is a wholly natural form of fertilizer. It is a little expensive, but once applied (then thoroughly mixed in, not left on the surface) it provides a constant source of phosphorus for about three years.

There is a down side, however: even the so-called deodorized type of bonemeal will attract skunks, raccoons, and the neighbor's little digger-dog for about two weeks following application. The solution: either mask the faint odor with something stronger, like a "tea" made from "blenderized" garlic, or prepare your soil a few weeks before you plant so they can dig (cultivate!) to their hearts' content without doing any real damage.

Now you're ready! Well, almost. The final step before planting is another very important "key"—a soil test so you'll know exactly what your soil has and precisely what it needs to make your garden more productive of healthier plants and harvest...and you a better (certainly better-informed!) gardener.

Your state's Cooperative Extension Service has free collection/mailing containers and detailed instructions. Samples are then mailed to the State Soil Testing Lab., and it usually takes about two to three weeks to get your results back. Cost is in the range of $10 - $12. Fairly economical "success" insurance!

Visit Fred's website to view more of his gardening articles: http://www.HillGardens.com

Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-frills gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com/, where you'll find answers to your gardening questions.

Starting A Wildflower Garden

Writen by Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Perhaps you have decided you want a wildflower garden. You have decided that if these wildflowers can grow in the wild without any one taking care of them, just maybe they will be the perfect plants for your to grow. After all you don't have a lot of time to take care of a garden but would really love to have some lovely flowers and other plants to look at and to dress up your landscaping. So how does one go about starting a wildflower garden?

You should approach starting a wildflower garden much like you approach any other kind of flower garden. Begin with looking at your yard and around your home to see what you have. Is your lot full of mature trees that cast a lot of shade? Are you on a fairly new lot and maybe don't even have a lawn in yet?

Do you have areas that stay wet? Is your soil deep and loamy or thin and rocky? Are trees in your yard causing your soil to be very acidic or is it very alkaline?

Now you must factor in your climate. Do you get lots of rain or is it very humid as in the Southeastern United States? Are you dry as in the Southwestern United States? Do you live in the city with barely any room at all and have to put up with bouts of smog?

Now that you've taken stock of what you have and where you are, you need to decide just what it is you want to accomplish by starting your wildflower garden. Is it as stated in the opening paragraph that you simply want some lovely flowers and plantings that are easy to maintain? Or perhaps you want to attract some local wildlife and provide a home for predatory insects so they will help you protect your vegetable garden? Are you conservation minded wanting to save resources or save the wildflowers? Perhaps you just want to show your neighbors how lovely native wildflowers can be.

Once you know the above, you can decide how you are going to go about starting your wildflower garden. Basically you have two choices. One, you pick wildflowers that will grow and thrive in the conditions you have. Two, you change the conditions you have so you can grow the wildflowers you want. This could include bringing in loamy soil, draining an area so it's drier, cutting down trees, creating a shaded area or what have you. The choice is yours.

Finally you can begin with the fun part of starting a wildflower garden and that is picking the plants and wildflowers. Once you know what you have and what you want, you can begin to design a wildflower garden that takes advantage of your landscaping and then choosing the wildflowers and plants that fit with your design, climate, location, soil type and so on.

Copyright 2006, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Looking for more Wildflower Garden articles? Discover all kinds of Flower Gardens at our site, http://flowergardenlovers.com/ Read about water, wildflower, rose, shade and butterfly gardens. Find articles about garden rooms, gardening tips, and more.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Landscaping Combo Auto Detailing Business

Writen by Lance Winslow

Can a landscaping business, which can only really work 10-months out of the year due to harsh winter climates do mobile auto detailing to supplement its down time? Hello, my name is Lance Winslow; the Car Wash Guy and welcome to the show if you have a question about business in the automotive sector the number is; and operators are standing by;

Hello you are on the air, how can I help you with your automotive business question or give you some automotive after market advice today?

Just wondering what kind of advise you can give me. I am on my 12th year of running a Landscape Contracting business and it is going well. The only downside is we can only work 10 months out of the year. We do a decent amount of business, but I need to supplement sales over the winter if we have a below average snowfall. I have always worked on all of the trucks and equipment and keep them well maintained. I had this idea a few years ago, but never followed up on it. I think that now is the time to get into a detail / mobile detail business in my area.

Ah ha; I see you are calling from the (610) area code, I know it well, where are you at Philly Suburbs? Indeed I realize that about the 10-months issue, I have heard of some folks running down to Florida for peak season for this reason, but the labor quality in Florida is horrendous!!! I really like that Tri-State Area on the Southside there

Now then the Mobile Detailing Business in the Winter Time is not so good, however you might be able to do boat hibernation services, those work well or fleet truck cleaning and steam cleaning of school buses and undercarriages. I am afraid that the landscape business and auto detailing business are much the same in this regard.

However, if you can get with a New Car Dealership you maybe able to use their bays to detail their wholesale inventory, trade-ins and provide after market services too? And by the way good luck in your endeavors there, Stay dry! I hear you guys are getting pummeled with rain right now, someone from the Maryland side emailed me today and a caller from Delaware says that she is getting soggy too. Consider this in 2006.

"Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Perennial Plant Combinations Color

Writen by Ethan Boton

The kinds of flowers you grow will be determined in a measure by the amount of sunlight available. This will vary from bed to bed, from one side of the house to the other. Most flowers will thrive in full sun but a few require shade. Others are shade tolerant, though doing better with a greater amount of sunlight. So it is possible to have flowers in the shade of trees, shrubs and buildings even where no direct sunlight reaches. Such plants as ferns, many wild flowers, and begonias have to be protected from the summer sun, for otherwise they may sun-scorch. When making a plan, it is important to know how tall each kind of flower grows so as not to plant tall growing ones in front of low ones. The habit of growth should be known too, so as not to crowd massive clumps like peonies next to smaller, weaker growers such as peach leaf bellflowers; or sprawling coreopsis next to a low, tufted Japanese primrose.

Very rank growers like the plume poppy and spreading Chinese lantern are really best kept out of beds with other flowers altogether. Much has been said and written about planning perennial plant combinations color schemes in the garden. They are fascinating to think about, but often difficult to work out. Do not be disconcerted if the results are not as expected. Flowers have an irritating way of not blooming just when they should, so that carefully planned combinations may not materialize. Colors vary too. Blues in catalogs are not always your idea of blue. This goes for lavender, purple, red, pink, orange, yellow and so on through the rainbow. In any case, there is enough green foliage to subdue impossible color combinations. Some people like to have their flowers in the front of the house where they can be seen. Others prefer to enjoy them in privacy. It is well to remember that in early spring and fall the weather may not be conducive to outdoor enjoyment.

Plant so that cold weather bloom may be enjoyed from the warmth and comfort of the home, using the windows as a means of access to the garden. Flowers can also be planted so as to be seen from the patio or picnic area. In every instance, a garden with a pleasing pattern or design and an adequate background is more satisfying than one without. The voice of experience is most helpful in planning a garden. Sources of help are garden clubs and friends and neighbors who may have had more garden experience. Much can be learned from visiting other gardens at home and on trips, nurseries, botanic gardens, arbore-tums and well-landscaped parks. All this will add to your knowledge of perennial plant combinations color and how they grow.

Ethan Botan is a freelancer writer who writes gardening articles for numerous print and online publications. Check out his site with lots of Patio Furniture. For related articles, visit Ken's website: http://patiofurniture.wicwoc.com

Mowing The Lawn

Writen by Johnathan Sanders

This is more of a follow up on my original article posted yesterday. As I have now finally managed to buy a new lawn mower, with safetey and usability in mind, I have been chopping away at that lawn this morning.

Whilst mowing the lawn, I noted a couple of things that may be of interest to those of you planning on cutting the grass.

Firstly, there appears to be a lack of understanding in today's society on the importance of good, well presented lawns - I am being quite serious here.

Think about it; un unkept lawn generaly atracts unwanted visitors, such as rodents, who habitually also foul within the lawn.

Secondly, as lawns tend to be mowed at the same time, this considerably incrases the amount of pollen in the atmostphere. Speak to anyone who suffers from hayfever, to find out how painful this can be.

For my part, there will be no need to push me to mow the lawn anymore - in view of the above, I shall be more that pleased to do my bit for the enviroment I live in, and at the sametime gain a beautiful garden.

By the way, check out www.lawn-mower-parts.info for great offers on lawn mowers and accessories.

John Sanders
Recently took up gardening as a hobby.

Friday, January 16, 2009

Spring Garden Tips

Writen by Josh Gray

Gardeners, it's time to put your gardening skills to the test. If temperatures are cooperating, the merry months of May and June will be your busiest until September, with planning, planting, and patio projects to lead the way into summer. Don't be fooled by a late frost; find out the mean freeze date in your area, and be sure soil is warm and workable—not too wet, not too dry—before putting tender plants in the ground.

By the time your garden is prime for planting, you should already have a plan of attack in place. Are you going to be planting bulbs, annual, more perennials, or a vegetable and herb garden. Maybe even all of the above if you are blessed with a big yard. Once you have a plan, its time to acquire your new plants. The quickest and easiest way is to buy your plants online. Everything you need from seeds, bulbs, and tools can be found through online merchants, and many sites even offer online coupons for increased savings. Small starters usually cannot be shipped directly to you, but can be sent to a store close to home for pick-up at your convenience.

If you are going to be putting in sensitive vegetables like cucumbers, squash, tomatoes, and melons, you may wish to wait a few weeks after the last thaw to ensure they don't get damaged by an extra cold night. If you want to plant early, consider sowing heartier vegetables like potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, and lettuce. Not sure about when to plant, then ask an expert at your local gardening center.

For all the beautiful colors of spring, consider planting both annual and perennial flowers. Although your perennials will still be around from last year, you may want to add a few of your favorites to replace flowers lower on your list. Annuals are an important part to every garden. They bring some of the richest, most vibrant colors to your garden. Plant your annuals from starters if you want an early spring bloom. Make sure that you plant annuals in areas of your yard that get at least five hours of direct sunlight per day. Don't be cheap on the plant food and watering, and you will ensure your flowers get the right ingredients for full, healthy blossoms.

Once the initial preparing and planting are finished, you can sit back and relax, letting your sprinklers do the rest of the work. If you work hard early on, your hardest task in summer will be choosing which flowers to make cuttings of and create bouquets for the kitchen and dining room. Enjoy the fruits of your labor… until next spring.

Josh Gray, President of UC San Diego's Gardens Club, is the Home and Garden consultant for CouponChief.com. This discount shopping and online coupon website features coupons and deals for most gardening merchants on their home and garden page. Find huge discount savings like coupons for $20 off $50! Visit CouponChief.com today!

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Making A Garden Pond With A Pond Liner

Writen by Philip Swindells

A pond liner is a flexible waterproof membrane that covers the floor and the sides of a pond excavation. There are several different kinds to choose from. Polyethylene is useful when sandwiched between two layers of soil, while PVC, composition and rubber liners are the types to use for a clean pond lining when the aquatic plants are to be grown in containers.

Most ponds can be constructed from most pond liners, but in some circumstances one will offer particular advantages over another. Where no part of the liner is exposed, then polyethylene is perfectly adequate. It need not be a specially manufactured pond liner, any heavy gauge polyethylene will be sufficient. That commonly used by builders is ideal.

Composition liners and those manufactured from rubber are necessary where exposure is inevitable, especially in formal features where there is limited planting and the water is the main attraction. Not all pond owners are plant enthusiasts and often water is a design element which is introduced for its reflective qualities. Certainly in formal circumstances where a fitted liner is desired it is more practical to use a material like rubber as it can be manufactured neatly welded to the shape desired and provide accurate wrinkle-free corners and curves.

For most gardeners though, it is a case of digging a hole to the required shape and then putting in the liner. However, it is important to never buy a liner and then dig a hole. Always finish the excavation first and then calculate the size of liner required to fit. Irrespective of the pond's shape, profile or size, calculating the liner size follows a simple formula. Take the length and then add to it twice the maximum depth. Then make the same calculation for the width. This will provide a liner that will suit the excavation and have sufficient overlap for the edges with a minimum of wastage.

It is necessary to mark out the shape of the proposed pond before digging commences. This not only permits accurate excavation, but gives an impression of how the finished pond will fit into the garden landscape. It is quite likely that original ideas will change somewhat when the proposal is seen in reality on the ground. Use stakes and string to create the outline of a formal pond, or a length of rope or hosepipe to give some guidance for an informal pond shape.

When creating an outline for an informal lined pond, take into account that while it is perfectly possible to line almost any shape or excavation, there is a limit to what can be achieved without significant folds and creases appearing in the liner. Whatever the final shape of the pond, marking out should be from a fixed point. When a building or path is used as a base-line this is straightforward, but if the pond outline has been created by eye, then create a point at one end using a stake knocked firmly into the soil as a marker.

The installation of a pond liner is the same for all materials except polythene. This needs molding completely to the shape of the excavation before water is added as it has little flexibility. Other materials used for pond lining are very flexible and when carefully installed mold to the contours of the excavation with the weight of added water. When digging ensure that the walls of the excavation remain as solid as possible. Replacing or filling with soil and attempting to compact it once disturbed is very difficult. Ideally the excavation should be carved out of the soil in rather the same manner as cutting cheese, that which remains behind being firm and solid.

Dig the whole of the pond down to the marginal shelves. Mark out the deep area of the excavation and dig down again. This helps to ensure that the hole is accurately produced with a solid base and walls that will remain firmly in place when the liner is laid and water added. During the digging process, make sure that the pond is level from end to end and side to side using a series of wooden stakes and a board with a spirit level. If the edges are not level, then when the liner and water are introduced there will be parts of the pond that will flood and other areas with large expanses of bare wall.

Irrespective of how tough the pond liner is believed to be, it will benefit from some form of cushioning in the hole. Make sure that there are no sticks or sharp stones in the excavation that may puncture the liner when the weight of water is added, and then add a generous layer of fine sand. The kind that is used for bricklaying is ideal. If damp, it can be smoothed around the excavation and will even adhere to the sides. Fleece also provides a useful protection, as do thick wads of old wet newspapers or pieces of discarded carpet.

Spread the liner across the pond, weighing down the edges with bricks or rocks, then run water from a hosepipe into the center so that the liner molds to the shape of the hole. As the liner molds to the contours straighten out any wrinkles and where necessary make bold folds to create corners. Spread the liner across the pond, weighing down the edges with bricks or rocks, then run water from a hosepipe into the center so that the liner molds to the shape of the hole. Once installed, finish the edge with a neat arrangement of tiles, paving or stone.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers' Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He is currently editor of http://www.internationalwatergardener.com.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

5 Great Tips For Building A Fish Pond

Writen by Tim Lee

For those who have always dreamed of having something fun in their garden, building a fish pond is the way to go. This will be a charming addition, to a beautifully kept garden.

A fish pond will make the garden one of the most favorite spots in the house. Not only will it be fun for kids, but the garden will also be a great place to entertain friends of the family.

But before building a fish pond, individuals must first plan a fish pond! Digging a giant hole in the garden, does not a fish pond make! This project takes a lot of time, effort, and planning! especially for those who have never picked up a pair of shovel in their lives.

Here are some great tips on how to build a fish pond:

1. Location is everything. First individuals must decide where they want to dig their fish pond. Picking a random place in the garden is not a good away to go about selecting a place for a fish pond. Remember that this will be a part of the permanent landscape of the garden. So be wise when it comes to picking a spot.

It is important to note that building a pond under a tree might not be the best idea. This is especially true of deciduous trees which habitually shed their leaves. Individuals would have a hard time keeping the fish pond clean and unpolluted.

Individuals may also choose to have an elevated fish pond. This is the one that goes above ground level. The downside is that this tends to be more expensive to construct.

2. Pick a design for the fish pond. First individuals would have to decide on the size of the pond they want to build. Ideally, the size of the pond should be proportionate to the size of the area of the garden. The fish pond can be rectangular, square, or any other shape one chooses. The key is to make sure it is even out, and symmetrical.

3. Those who want to have plants on their fish pond should keep in mind that they should place their fish pond in a place where it can be exposed to great amount of sun light.

4. Make sure that when constructing a natural pond, that you dig deep enough, so that the pond does not freeze over during winter. Also, consider what types of aquatic life you want to include in the pond before digging. The depth of the pond will also be determined by the kinds of plants, and fish that will reside in the fish pond.

5. Individuals should make sure that they do not make their fish pond too small. This is a mistake that a lot of beginners make. This is because the lay out as start out with will always almost end up smaller than what you had in mind once the fish pond has actually been realized.

Building a fish pond is not an easy task. It will require a lot of effort and hard work. Individuals should ask friends who have experience with gardening to assist them with this project. It is best to do some research before starting on the pond. The internet is a great place to pick up tips.

Building a fish pond should not take that long. It should be finished after about a week. The effort individuals put into this project will be rewarding once they see the fruit of their labor!

For more tips on how to have a fantastic backyard fish pond, please visit http://www.backyard-fish-ponds-care.com

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Gardening Grows On You

Writen by Chris Campbell

Gardening is good for you, good for your neighbors, good for your kids and good for your dog. Especially if you do it the right way. Gardening has been around for ages, and it's almost so ingrained into our genes, it's like an instinct. In the sense that gardening feels good to do, to dig, and plant a seed and watch it grow. It's kind of an analogy for what it means to being human. It just plain feels good to see something you've planted, mature and come to fruition as a living thing. Something mystical almost about gardening. Not to mention, there are the additional benefits of the after effect of all your gardening accomplishments. Astetically, there really is nothing more pleasing, warming and comforting to look upon then a bountiful garden. Whether it is rose garden, a vegetable garden,or just a garden of plants, bushes and flowers of all varieties. It touches a human feeling at pretty much an unconscious level. I feels just right. Even a little planting or gardening in an otherwise artifical environment makes the whole environment feel more natural.

Organic Nirvana

While there is plenty of artificial stimulants, preservatives, and preventatives to aid in the gardening process, there is something to be said for the whole organic gardening process. Not only is it a healthier choice for us, but it's one less thing to fret about with all the misinformation these days about what things you need to avoid. That in itself is a mental health reason to choose organic gardening. Not to mention, for those of use who like a challenge and are constantly trying to stay off the tried and true approach, organic gardening provides many possibilities. Finding new and and inventive natural ways to keep the pests away, and help the garden grow can be fascinating. Again another mind satisfying result.

Neighborly Abundance

As anyone who knows a gardener can attest to, gardeners are the worst estimators around. They always seem to plant far more than they can eat, cook, or can. So as a result all their friends, families, and neighbors end up with baskets and baskets of tomatoes, peppers and whatever cornucopia the harvest has brought. And of course, this whole giving aspect of gardening is bound to make both the gardener and gardeners friends a much happier lot. The whole idea of giving is better than receiving really sprouts up here. And since receiving is not so bad either, all the rest of us enjoy the benefits of our backyard farmers exploits. Of course if organic gardening was employed, then it's better for everyone involved. Helps keep us all away from those nasty store bought vegetables, with enough growth hormones to visit the giants castle at the end of the bean stalks. So, get gardening all you green thumbs, I've got an empty cupboard.

For more on gardening visit gardeningfunonline.com or read other gardening articles at foolishmumbles.com/category/gardening

Monday, January 12, 2009

The Truth About Mtd Snow Blowers

Writen by Robert J Smith

Ask anyone who lives in areas that receive snow, and they will tell you that it's shoveling snow more than the cold temperatures that they would list as the worst part of the season. Fortunately, there are options out there which will make your time outside shorter, and more importantly, less stressful on your back.

Snow blowers provide a great solution for those who hate shoveling snow! One of the more popular snow blowers is an MTD Snow Blower due to the ease of use, durability and of course, power. Take care of your snow blower, and it will last you a lifetime.

Keeping your snow blower in optimum shape is easy with a MTD Snow Blower parts and accessories. These snow blowers are prized for their ease of use and their electric push button starters. They are durable and many people find them to be the sturdiest snow blowers on the market. MTD has been an established company for over forty years, and has built a strong reputation of sturdy and resilient machinery and accessories.

Throw the Snow, Not Your Back

Shoveling snow can be a stressful experience for your back, which combined with cold and low temperatures, can cause a double dose of back pain. Using a good snow blower is a great way to save your health and clear excess snow from your yard.

The MTD Snow blower has earned the reputation of being able to handle even the toughest jobs. By using your MTD snow blower you can take the pressure off your back and let the machine handle the work for you. . Whether you need to remove snow and get your car out in time for work or just clear a walkway from your front door to the sidewalk your MTD snow blower can handle the work for you. Many of the blowers will clear widths of up to 24" or two feet, the perfect size for a walkway in one shot.

When you find the MTD snow blower that you want to purchase, make sure that you save all of your pertinent documentation and warranty information. If you ever need to order MTD snow blower parts, the documentation will have the appropriate phone numbers for you to call. Not only are MTD snow blowers a popular choice due to their outstanding performance capabilities, they are also a favorite because they are readily available at many home and garden supply stores for a price that homeowners can afford.

No one likes to shovel snow, so why make it more of a chore than it needs to be. You'll enjoy plowing and clearing your driveway so much, that you'll probably end up doing your neighbours sidewalks as well, earning a big thank you and probably a beverage when they come out of hibernation from their homes!

looking for info on MTD snow blower parts? You'll find all the info you need to make an informed decision at http://www.dontshovel.com

Sunday, January 11, 2009

About Indoor Trees

Writen by Patrick Desnoyers

By nature of trees they are meant to be outdoor.

Maple are cold hardy tree, and they will thrive in ideal condition. Who best then mother nature for creating ideal climate. Maple will grow in cold climate because they need a period of cold to rest and rejuvenate. This apply to all tree's, hence bonsai, that grow in cold climate. Growing a tree indoor will lack natural elements. One, it will lack light, wich is essential to growth. It will lack humidity, wich will cause leaves to dry faster. Leaves are in constant transpiration, and humidity help the process. One thing, is that indoor, you most likely keep your temeprature to at least 20c in winter. Colder climate tree that need a period of rest after they loose their leaves, will require a maximum of 5c to go dormant and rejuvenate.

Now, their must be a type of tree that dont need sleep in winter? Yes there is. What you must ask yourself, is what climate conditions can I offer to a future tree?

Well, you can start by having a constant temperature in the house, maybe hotter in the summer. Reducing lighting and maybe humidity by misting my tree once or twice a day.

So with these condition on hand, what type of tree can live with these conditions?

Surely a tropical tree would liked to be in hot temperature all day.

That is why Tropical types of trees do well indoor.

I have a few tropical tree's, and keep them indoor in winter but I always bring them outside in late spring. Their growth rate is 10 times faster outside because it has lots of suns, humidity and hot temperature.

Indoor, the tree survive, but is a really slow grower.

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

Metal Garden Furniture

Writen by Matthew Anthony

Since Victorian times metal garden furniture has become a popular way to decorate gardens. In fact, since this furniture can easily last for many years with the proper maintenance, some people are still using pieces in their gardens that were made in the Victorian era. Metal garden furniture adds both a classic style and durability, which demand that it should be considered as the preferred choice of garden furniture.

The options range from modern lightweight aluminum to the more traditional iron and it should be possible to obtain the perfect piece of metal garden furniture for your garden. A few metal chairs and a bistro table are a classic addition to even the smallest patio or terrace area. These furniture pieces are often light and therefore fairly portable, so they can be utilized in many areas of the garden. This means you can take advantage of the changes going on in your garden, whether on a daily basis or over the seasons.

Another classical piece of metal garden furniture is the single ornate iron bench, which can really set off a Victorian style garden. These benches are excellent focal points and can dress up the less interesting sections of the garden. An iron bench can really add some interest to a shady spot. The iron bench need not be used for sitting on. You can position an iron bench under the tree and then place several pots around it. Finally place a big pot of impatiens or a garden statue on the bench.

If your garden does not have a lot of colour, you could choose some metal chairs in a number of colours. These could be positioned in front of evergreen shrubs, and they really make a statement. On the other hand, if your garden is filled with flowers, you may want to choose metal furniture with more neutral traditional colours such as black or white to add a calmer element to the garden.

Make sure you add a touch of comfort to your garden with a metal lounge chair. Armed with a good book and a cup of iced tea, these chairs are the perfect way for you to relax on a sunny weekend afternoon.

Finally, don't forget about the latest aluminum garden furniture. These pieces are extremely easy to carry around and can often be folded for easy storage. Aluminum sun loungers, tables, and chairs are all great pieces for times when you need just a few more pieces of furniture on the patio so that you can entertain your friends and family.

Matthew Anthony is the author of many artickes about garden furniture

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Successful Organic Gardening Systems

Writen by Julie Williams

What is it that most organic gardeners want from their amazing food gardens?

* Is it the substantial health benefits:

- knowing that your food is GM and synthetic chemicals and free?

- gathering your food from garden to table in minutes, retaining valuable, health enhancing nutrients?

* Or the pleasure of losing yourself in the delight of time spent in your garden?

* Maybe it's about spending time teaching your children how to garden

* Perhaps it's your creative outlet; designing, creating, maintaining

* Do you view it as your part in helping the environment; reduce, reuse, recycle?

I believe Organic Gardening brings us most (or all) of these things. Some of the practices that are a must for having a healthy, high yielding vegetable garden include strategies or systems that bring about healthy soil, deep watering, balanced insect populations and crop rotation / planning.

Having nutrient rich, well balanced soil, high in microbial activity can be achieved by continually adding organic matter to the soil. You can do this with compost (making your own compost has many benefits), green manures, crop rotation and a "no dig" policy. A high yielding garden is dependant on healthy soil.

Deep watering will encourage your plants to develop deep root systems. This enables them to take in more water and nutrients. You then have strong, healthy plants that do well with regular deep watering. Mulching prevents moisture loss, soil erosion and reduces weeds. Installing drip irrigation – especially when combined with a timer – will benefit you, your garden and the environment.

If you want to be chemical and / or spray free getting the right balance of beneficial and harmful insects throughout your garden is crucial. Yes, I said harmful insects! If there were no harmful insects for the beneficial ones to feed on all your beneficial insects will die or go elsewhere. Nature abounds in symbiotic relationships and this works very efficiently in the garden. Imagine if you had no predatory insects and were then inundated with carrot fly. There would be no stopping them, unless you resorted to chemicals – and you should never allow this in your organic garden.

Arm yourself instead with companion planting practices; practical methods to outwit the enemy (harmful insects) the way nature intended. Plant combinations that will confuse pests by masking the smell and shapes of plants which pests use to locate their favourite foods. In my Companion Planting guide you will also discover which plants benefit each other and those you must never plant together.

With the basics covered you just need to decide what you're going to grow, how much of it and when. You know your family's food needs better than anyone else, so there's no point in growing 15 brussels sprouts plants if your family won't eat them. You also need to know the right time of year to plant different families. For example: Cucurbits (cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, melons) need to grow in warm temperatures. In winter (unless you can artificially provide the right conditions) your crop will fail – so leave it till the ground has warmed, the days are lengthening and the risk of late frost has passed (mid spring in most areas).

Rotating your crops is also a good practice. Otherwise you will deplete the soil of particular nutrients / elements that a crop planted continually in the same place needs. This also means that the crop will perform worse each year as the nutrients it needs decline.

I like to spend winter evenings planning what, where and how much I'm going to plant in my veggie garden next season. Keeping a gardening journal comes in really handy when I'm planning. It reminds me what worked previously, what I'd like to do differently and whether or not I planted enough or too much of a particular plant to meet our needs.

If you think this is all a bit overwhelming, just remember progress, not perfection. Just get started and improve upon it as you go. So you really have no excuse. You have enough information to make a great start and you can build on it as you gain more experience.

Hi, I am an avid organic gardener and am known by my friends as the recycling queen. I live on a small country property in South Australia. It is my mission to encourage as many people as possible to start organic gardening. This will improve both our individual lives and the wellbeing of our personal and global environments. Please visit my website for more great organic gardening tips & information. For Companion Planting info click here.

Happy gardening, healthy living…
Julie Williams
http://www.1stoporganicgardening.com

How To Plant Tulips

Writen by David Chandler

Quality Dutch tulip bulbs are easy to come by and fairly inexpensive to purchase. You can get them through a mail order catalogue or a reputable green house. It is becoming increasingly popular to buy flower bulbs from online nurseries. The downfall to buying bulbs online is that you cannot inspect the bulbs prior to purchase. The highest quality of bulbs, especially tulips, comes from Holland.

Tulip bulbs are best when purchased early in the planting season. Only buy firm, light colored bulbs where the skin peels off easily. This will insure that the bulbs are disease free. Buy by species, not by color. If the bin is simply labeled "yellow bulbs", you do not know what exactly you are getting. If you are not sure when the best time to plant is, ask the greenhouse keeper about the conditions of your zone.

Spring bulbs such as tulips, need to be planted when it is cool enough to keep them from sprouting, but still warm enough for the roots to establish themselves before winter sets in. Plant tulips six inches deep and cover. If you have problems with moles and other little creatures digging up your tulips, you may plant them as deep as eight inches. If your bulbs are still being whisked away in the dead of night, there are bulbs planting cases you can get at the greenhouse. A little known fact about planting tulips, after the initial watering in after planting, do not water your tulips again until their leaves appear.

For more information, visit these sites:

http://www.TulipsInfo.com
http://www.BulbsInfo.com

Friday, January 9, 2009

Avoiding Unsightly Algae

Writen by Brett Fogle

Excessive organic matter in the pond provides nutrients for algae, contributing to its growth. Algae can obscure the view of colorful fish, and more dangerously, it robs the water of valuable oxygen and releases harmful pollutants.

UV clarifiers also are effective tools that use ultraviolet light to destroy the reproductive ability of suspended algae. Dead, microscopic algae will clump together into particles large enough to be removed by filtration.

Increasing the amount of floating and oxygenating plants in your pond is another simple solution to keeping the water clean, and clear. Floating plants such as water lilies, water lettuce, lotus and water hyacinth provide shade, reducing sunlight in the pond, which helps control algae growth.

Submerged plants, also known as oxygenators, affect the carbon dioxide and oxygen levels of the pond by competing directly with algae for light and food. Oxygenators absorb nutrients from fish waste and minerals through their leaves, helping to starve algae, keeping the water clear. Some examples of oxygenators are Hornwart, Anacharis and Parrot's Feather.

**************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
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A Backyard Fire Pit Do It Yourself Today

Writen by Josh Walker

If you've been looking at buying a fire pit, then you're probably already aware that you can buy ready-made models that only require some simple assembly. But wouldn't it be nice to create your own fire pit? One that's uniquely yours? You don't need a complicated set of blueprints to build your own fire pit - you just need to have an idea in your head of what you're trying to create. It doesn't take a lot to build a fire pit for barbequing or an outdoor campfire. A DIY fire pit can cost next to nothing to construct, apart from some time and hard work, and is even cheaper if you already have some materials such as bricks or rocks on hand.

The first step is to choose a safe location for your fire pit. Make sure it's nowhere near any structures that could catch fire, and locate it away from any backyard traffic zones. It's also worth talking to your local fire department in case you need to know any particular rules or information before starting. Organize to have some stones or bricks ready for lining the inside of your fire pit. Then all you need to do is dig the hole. This might take a few hours of hard work with a shovel, but that's all.

Once your hole is deep enough, use the stones or bricks to line the perimeter of the hole, and continue these materials above the ground. You need the stones around the top to form a windbreak and to stop soil falling into the fire. If you want something a little fancier, you can build a stucco pit above the ground. Use magazines and the Internet to help give you lots of great ideas for your fire pit design. Think about your existing home and outdoor furniture, and design your fire pit to complement these existing elements in your backyard. If you're really stuck for ideas or want to create something a little more complicated, it's possible to order plans online that include a list of materials, and it's generally not very expensive.

Now you have a fire pit, safety is always important. Remember, this is a big hole in the ground, and you don't want any accidents. So it might be a good idea to cover the pit when it's not being used. You can just use a piece of scrap metal or wooden board and cut it to fit. You can also choose to buy a basic fire pit, which will generally include the basics such as a cover, log grill and spark screen, and then build a brick or stone wall around that. This will help stop pets or children from running into the fire pit by accident.

For a gas fire pit, you will need to buy either gas fire logs or a simple metal fire ring. Then you simply need to design and build the housing.

Whatever you decided, it's great to do it yourself and have a fire pit that will be the envy of all your neighbors.

If you want to read more about outdoor fire pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Taking Care Of Your Bonsai

Writen by Paul Cris

Bonsai is the art of growing trees that are of tiny-stature, within the household premises. The word Bonsai is basically a Chinese term, which denotes a shrub or a tree planted in a shallow tray. It plays an important role by adding value to the living room. The following are the valuable tips that can preserve the plant for a longer duration.

a) Adequate water should be poured on time and the leaves that have turned yellowish should be plucked without crushing the buds.

b) Retain the moisture content in the soil by consistently immersing the pot into the water. Let the excess water get drained away later on.

c) Choose a right location so that the plant is not deprived of the sunrays. Also, ensure that it is not exposed to the scorching heat of the sun.

d) Add the necessary fertilizers like phostrogen tomato after watering them.

e) Maintain the original shape by tapering away the part that grows so that it looks orderly.

f) Trim away a small portion from the root and fix the plant in a new pot. Thus, the plant will be healthier for a longer span.

g) When you sense a glossy touch at your fingertips, it should be understood that the leaves are victims of an infestation. So apply insecticides or a diluted solution for a maximum of three times.

Although this craft leads to curbing of nature, it is not a form of wastage. It is a way of bringing beauty indoors.

Paul has been providing answers to lots of queries through his website on a wide variety of subjects ranging from satellite phones to acne. To learn more visit http://www.askaquery.com/Answers/qn1532.html

Wholesale Fresh Flowers

Writen by Steve Valentino

Wholesale fresh flowers, refers to purchasing fresh flowers in bulk from direct wholesale traders. Fresh flowers are kept for only a limited amount of time, perhaps a week in most cases, if conditions are very good. As a result, fresh flowers that are not sold must be thrown out at the end of their term and replaced with brand new fresh flowers. Therefore, because of the high amount of waste that accumulates throughout the year, fresh flowers are usually marked up at a high rate. But on the other hand, if a company is selling the same amount of flowers as it maintains, the price can stay lower. Especially if the company is a wholesaler, flowers can stay even more inexpensive.

This is the ideal situation to be in. This form of purchasing is normally done by florists or those who are in the business of using flowers in large amounts because the larger the amount the lesser the cost provided that you hold a good bargain!

Another advantage of dealing with a wholesale fresh flower dealer is that it is more likely for you to obtain the variety of flowers that you are looking for from one dealer. Once you strike a deal with a particular wholesaler for your particular choice of flowers for a particular amount at a particular date, then the flowers will be delivered right at your door stop making doing business easy for you or just ring them to make your order and you will receive them in no time!

Fresh Flowers provides detailed information on Fresh Flowers, Fresh Cut Flowers, Fresh Flower Arrangements, Wholesale Fresh Flowers and more. Fresh Flowers is affiliated with Names Of Spring Flowers.

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Super Foods From Home Vegetable Gardens

Writen by Sally Morton

Most of you have heard about super foods. These super foods are classified as being rich in vitamins, nutrients and/or minerals that are believed by nutritionists to prevent disease, promote longevity and good health. High on the list of super foods are:

    Carrots
    Broccoli
    Spinach
    Chili peppers
    Mushrooms
    Tomatoes
    Garlic
    Oats
    Beans
    Green Tea
    Lots of fruits: Bananas, Strawberries, Papaya, Pineapple, Mango, Citrus Fruits, Apricots
    Salmon

What is the best way to incorporate super foods into your diet?

Grow your own, of course. Vegetable gardens are in vogue in today's health-conscious society. It's estimated that 50 percent of American families have vegetable gardens. It's easy to grow vegetables and herbs. Use an unused space in your backyard or side yard. If space is limited, try a container vegetable garden, a raised bed garden, a window box garden, a vertical vegetable garden, or run vines up trellises. You might even mix vegetable plants in with your existing landscaping.

Even if you've never planted a vegetable garden before, you don't have much to lose by giving it a try. With the abundance of free information available to you over the Internet, there is no reason anyone cannot do it.

Benefits of vegetable gardens:

    Stretching the food budget means you have more money left over to do other things.

    Your vegetable garden is the ultimate source of FRESH vegetables (you can't get any fresher than to harvest them yourself!)

    Assurance of getting the highest nutritional content possible from every harvest. That's not always the case with store-bought produce=Better health plus peace of mind!

    You know exactly what fertilizers or pesticides were used and the condition of the soil in which the vegetables were grown.

    You get bragging rights. I've seen grown men proud as a peacock about the size of the vegetables they grew. You could even enter your vegetables in contests and displays, such as at the county fair.

    Vegetable gardens pay lifelong dividends in better health.

    Take up a complimentary (and potentially lucrative) hobby: food photography.

    Promote family togetherness when you get the whole gang involved in planting, harvesting and food preparation of vegetables, fruits and herbs.

    Helps you lose weight two ways: 1) The extra exercise and 2) Vegetables are lower in calories than junk food!

    It's a fun, healthy hobby that gives back many times more than what you put into it.

    Vegetables and herbs are not just healthy for you, they can also be decorative and ornamental.

    I don't know why working in the soil promotes a sense of serenity and peacefulness, but any gardener will tell you it does.

###

Sally Hansley Morton is an internationally published freelance writer, and writer for Suite 101's Vegetable Gardens. You can reach Sally at vegetablegardens@suite101.com

Tips For Planting Flower Bulbs

Writen by Robbie Darmona

Flower bulbs are extremely easy to plant and take care of. Moreover, many of the famous flowers are grown from flower bulbs: so you need to learn the basic rules of thumb to start planting your garden. Flowers such as hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, tulips are all grown from flower bulbs, and we all know how important they are for a garden's flower bed. So, the sooner you learn to plant flower bulbs, the faster your garden will become utterly irresistible and full of colors.

Flower bulbs are best to be planted in April- May, or slightly later for warmer areas. Spring flower bulbs can be potted both in garden pots or containers, as well as in natural garden flower beds. You can choose any size of a container to plant and grow the flower bulbs. In the warmer regions of Australia, tulips need about 6-8 week period of refrigeration before they are planted. The artificial weather is needed because they should be fully grown before they are planted. Tulip bulbs are very brittle and sensitive, they need special treatment before planting. You have to make sure you don't freeze them too much, otherwise they will never recover.

You can plant every kind of flower bulbs using a flower bulb planting tool. Flower bulbs such as Tulips, Daffodils, Jonquils, Hyacinths can be planted easier when you use this planting tool. It is helpful if your hands are not accustomed to planting and you cannot dig the soil manually. Flower bulb planting tool is very useful when planting perennials, too.

Flower bulbs are important to be planted at a certain depth: twice as deep as their real size. A single exception to this rule make the Australian flower bulbs: they should be planted even deeper in the soil, because of the warm weather in Australia. Flower bulbs also need a lot of mulching to help them grow to their full capacity. This includes preparation of the soil, using fertilizers. Prepare the soil several weeks before the planting of the flower bulbs itself. Watering plays also important role: you should water the bulb only ONCE after planting. Don't be tempted to water it once again: wait until it has shown up on the surface. Only when shoots are springing up should you water the plant, otherwise rotting of the flower bulbs may occur. You should keep the soil moist, because extremely dry soil can cause damage to the plant, and can also stress the bulbs.

Planting flower bulbs can be either in the garden, or in special containers. Garden planting requires using a special fertilizer prior to the planting process. Planting flower bulbs in containers is another point of interest. You should first buy a quality soil, a mix of substantial nutrients, which will evoke faster growing of the flower bulbs. There is a huge variety of potting mixes, which you can find at minimal price. Another thing is to choose the size and shape of your container, so that it fits the type of the flower, and also has enough space for the flower bulb to grow. Larger pots should be used for planting of higher flowers, such as Monet Tulips or Dutch Iris. Flowers such as Anemones and Crocus require smaller containers. Shallow bowls and pots are generally used for planting Hyacinths or miniature Daffodils. Containers should also have moist soil, so that plants can grow easily.

Find Flower Shop - the easiest way to locate a flower shop in your area. Article by Robbie Darmona - an article writer who writes on a wide variety of subjects.

Monday, January 5, 2009

Protect Your Backyard Pond With A Floating Pond Heater

Writen by Terry Edwards

Make no mistake about it, winter is coming on us quickly. Aside from the usual yard work we all do in preparing for the cold weather, if you have a backyard pond, are you ready for the freezing temperatures? What are you doing to make life easier for your fish?

A floating pond heater can make any backyard pond a paradise no matter what time of year it is. There is something about having a backyard pond. The peace and comfort it brings is often times hard to describe. But, for many folks, they don't feel they can still enjoy a pond if they live in a cold weather climate. Nothing could be further from the truth.

The good news is that a floating pond heater can not only keep your pond looking healthier, but it will make your fish feel great also.

Pond heaters only come in two models, a submerged pond heater, and a floating pond heater. A floating pond heater will use electricity, oil, or natural gas for its power source. In addition, you can even find a solar pond heater. A floating pond heater uses very little energy and is actually designed not to heat the water, but rather to prevent ice from forming.

A floating pond heater can act as a pond deicer and heater in the event your backyard pond already has ice formed over the top. You can place the floating pond heater on top of the ice and it will melt a hole all the way through, eventually melting all the ice on the pond's surface.

Keeping up with your backyard pond can be a bit time consuming, especially in prepping it for the long winter months. You'll need to place wire mesh over the top of your pond to keep leaves out if that is an issue where you live. Later, you can actually lay down 1/4" plywood on your pond to aid in keeping it warm.

When the weather really starts to get cold you can install your floating pond heater. Make sure you shut off the pump during the winter. Leaving it on will actually do more harm than good by lowering the ponds temperature. It may also work against your fish.

The last thing to keep in mind with a floating pond heater is its power source. Depending on the type of floating pond heater you have, you may need to have a generator handy in case of any power outage from a winter storm.

No matter where you live you can enjoy that backyard pond throughout the year with a floating pond heater.

You can find out more about a Floating Pond Heater as well as much more information on all types of heaters at http://www.Heaters.InfoFromA-z.com

Sunday, January 4, 2009

The Indoor Garden Plants That Clean The Air

Writen by Gwen Stewart

There are many reasons for creating an indoor garden – significant among them is the need to clean the toxins from our homes and offices. As a consequence of the energy crisis in the 1970's, today's homes and offices are built to conserve energy and the outcome has been a lack of air exchange, with the resulting increase of indoor air pollution. The World Health Organization has stated, "there's probably more damage to human health from indoor pollution than from outdoor pollution." Symptoms associated with indoor pollution include allergies, asthma, eye, nose, and throat irritations, fatigue, headache, nervous system disorders, respiratory and sinus congestion. In today's society more and more people exhibit these symptoms as a result of staying indoors the majority of the time.

One of the ways we can change this predicament is to become knowledgeable about and responsive to the environment that we live and breathe in. Foliage plants give us the opportunity to not only provide the calming influences of nature in our homes and workplaces, but also provide us with the oxygen we need to live. In a study conducted by N.A.S.A., researchers found that plants also clean the air inside our homes, buildings, and offices. The sources of chemical emissions that cause indoor air pollution include: acetone, alcohols; ammonia; benzene; chloroform; formaldehyde; and xylene.

These chemicals are found in cosmetics, nail polish remover, office correction fluid, pre-printed paper forms, adhesives, carpeting, caulking compounds, ceiling tiles, floor coverings, paints, particleboard, stains, varnishes, cleaning products, electrophotographic printers, microfiche developers, photocopiers, photography supplies, plastics, spot removers, solvents, tobacco smoke, wall coverings, carpet glue, draperies, fabrics, facial tissues, furniture made from preserved wood, gas stoves, grocery bags, paper towels, permanent-press clothing, plywood, upholstery, computer VDU screens, and community water supplies that add chloroform to chlorinated tap water.

Researchers have discovered the most effective plants are: Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) – removes chemical vapours; Arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum) – removes chemical vapours; Azalea (Rhododendron simsii hybrids) – removes chemical vapours; Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis') – the best fern for removing air pollutants; Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) – removes chemical vapours; Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera 'Bridgesii') – removes chemical vapours; Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) – removes chemical vapours; Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig') – best of the dracaenas for removing chemical toxins from the indoor environment; Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii') – especially effective for the removal of benzene; Dracaena (Dracaena marginata) – among the best plants for removing xylene; Dracaena (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') – especially effective at removing air toxins such as formaldehyde; English ivy (Hedera helix) – particularly effective at removing formaldehyde; Florist's mum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) – one of the best flowering or seasonal plants for removing formaldehyde, benzene, and ammonia from the atmosphere; Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) – removes chemical vapours; Miniature date palm (Phoenix roebelinii) – one of the best palms for removing indoor air pollutants, especially effective for the removal of xylene; Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) – excels in the removal of alcohol, acetone, benzene, and formaldehyde; Red emerald philodendron (Philodendron erubescens) – one of the best philodendrons for removing indoor air pollutants; Snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) – good for removing chemical vapours; Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum 'Vittatum') – effective for removing indoor air pollutants as well as chemical vapours; and Wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens) – good for removing chemical vapours.

These are some of the plants known to contribute to healthy air quality in our homes, buildings, and offices. Some plants may be better than others are but all plants clean the air as they beautify our surroundings and add oxygen and humidity to the indoor environment. Horticulturist Ken Beattie suggests, "The next plant you buy may save your life."

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and the booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Products. She owns the website Gwen's Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the books and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca

Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2005. All rights reserved.

Basic Gardening Transplanting Trees Shrubs And Plants Within Your Garden

Writen by Jonathan Johnson

Many homeowners often find a tree, shrub or plant that just isn't right for a particular location and decide to transplant it to a different location. Before transplanting trees, shrubs, or plants it is important to understand that transplanting an established tree, shrub or plant will disrupt its root system and "shock" it. When transplanting larger trees and shrubs it is recommended to do some root pruning one season before you transplant. You will need to take a sharp spade and cut the existing roots. Make your cuts around the tree cutting the roots as far down as the spade can go. This should be done at the outer edge of the trees existing drip line. The drip line is the outer most point at which water falls straight down from the leaves. By doing this the tree will develop a more condensed root system within the pruned area.

The best time of year for transplanting is during the cold, wet winter days. This time of year plants are dormant and will suffer less shock from transplanting.

In preparation of the transplant you will need to water the plant thoroughly the day before. You will also need to go ahead and dig a hole 50% wider and deeper than the expected root ball in the new location. Dig up some soil from around the transplants existing location and mix it with mulch, peat moss, or decaying leaves. Place some of this mixture back in the hole so the intended root ball will not fall below existing ground level. Keep the rest of the mixture on hand for filling in around the root ball.

To dig up your transplant use a sharp spade to dig / cut around the drip line as far down as the spade will reach. For smaller plants you should be able to pry out the root ball. During the prying out process it is a good idea to have two people and two shovels prying at the same time. When transplanting larger shrubs or trees you will probably need to dig a trench 6" – 12" deep outside of the drip line. Once you have done this dig / cut again down as far as your spade will reach from the bottom of the trench. Now it is time to pry the plant out. When transplanting these large shrubs and trees you might need all the help you can get from your friends. Once the root ball has been pried out of the hole, place a tarp underneath it and drag the transplant to its new location.

Before placing the transplanted root ball in the new hole, check to see if you have enough soil in the bottom of the hole. This soil is intended to support the root ball above existing ground level. Now it is time to place the root ball into the new hole. If the root ball falls below ground level, lift it out and add more fill dirt. Now you will want to center the transplant in the hole and firmly work in the soil mixture around it. Add the soil mixture all the way up to existing ground level. This should stabilize the transplanted root ball from moving around. If needed you can drive one or more stakes in place to stabilize the transplant.

Plants experience shock from transplanting making it a good idea to go ahead do some substantial pruning. Pruning will compensate for the loss in root area and encourage new growth in the spring. You will want to place a 2" – 4" layer of mulch around the base of the transplant. This will help control weeds and hold in the moisture around the transplant. Before calling it a day you will want to water the plant thoroughly. Continue watering and monitoring the transplanted tree, shrub or plants condition on a weekly basis until the transplant becomes established.

Cottage Farms Direct
Check us out at www.cottagefarmsdirect.com
Click here to determine your hardiness zone: www.cottagefarmsdirect.com/hardiness.asp

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Easy Pond Algae Control The Ecologically Safe Way

Writen by Doug Green

Algae control in ponds is fairly straightforward. If we ignore the initial spring burst of green water that tells us the pond is coming alive, we make the first good step.

However if the green persists, it tells us there is an imbalance in the pond ecology. The solution to that is to fix the imbalance. While some pond keepers would have you chuck in some chemicals, the reality is these are merely band-aids and won't "solve" the problem, they'll only mask it. If you want to solve the problem consider the sources of the problem.

Many ponds have too many fish in them. At one inch of fish per one square foot of pond surface, you can either have three big ones at 10-inch length or 30 little ones at one-inch length. (note that 3 ten-inch fish will likely give you 100 one-inch fish every year) If you have a greatere fish population than this, understand two things are happening. The first is the pool ecology is being upset because of too high a level of fish excreted waste and high fish populations are likely eating the oxygenating plants that deal with this excretion waste material. The real solution is to lower the fish population. I note if you have fish and are feeding them, the other recommendation is to stop feeding or to drastically reduce your feeding. Excess food creates excess waste which in turn creates green pond water.

The second solution is to increase the oxygenating plant level. A rule of thumb for doing this is to add one bunch (10 stems or so) of a floating oxygenator plant such anacharis for every 3 square feet of pond surface. Reducing the fish population and adding the oxygenators will clean up the algae in few days. If you add oxygenators without reducing the fish population, the fish will likely eat the plants and the green pond water will not go away.

Understand there is not magic bullet here. You have to get that ecology in balance and the way to do that is to follow a few simple rules to control fish and plant populations. The two thumb rules above will solve most algae problems.

Doug Green, award winning garden author with 7 books published, answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.water-gardens-information.com

Waterfalls

Writen by Elizabeth Morgan

Waterfalls are water systems in which water falls from a height into another water body at the base. They may be natural or artificial. Waterfalls are very aesthetically appealing and regarded as tourist spots. Several huge natural waterfalls are responsible for running the entire economies of the settlements around them by attracting tourists. People also construct artificial waterfalls in their backyards or gardens, or even indoors, to avail of their scenic beauty and soothing sounds.

Angel Falls in Venezuela is the highest natural waterfall of the world. It falls from a drop of 3,230 feet. The Canaima Natural Park is built around it and it mainly attracts tourists because of Angel Falls. Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River located on the Zambia-Zimbabwe border is about 1 mile in breadth as it falls, making it the widest waterfall in the world. Niagara Falls in America and Canada contains the highest quantity of any waterfall all over the world. All these waterfalls attract millions of people each year, thus building up tremendous foreign exchange for their countries.

In order to partake of some of this beauty, people have begun building waterfalls in their own gardens and backyards. Building artificial waterfalls is an age-old Japanese art, which has now taken many modern twists. Waterfalls are built of rock or stone. There are artificial foam and pumice stones available, which are used for building waterfall cascades. Even copper and slate are used for building waterfalls. Artificial waterfalls need a submersible pump unit and a base for receiving water. The base can be designed as a pond with fishes and aquatic life in it. Waterfalls automatically attract various birds and butterflies, thus adding to their visual appeal.

Indoor waterfalls are also becoming popular. These are made of a variety of materials such as copper, slate, stone and fiberglass, and they may be wall-mounted or tabletop. Water can be made to flow through thin transparent glass sheets and used as a partition for offices or bars. There are infinite possibilities to customize a waterfall.

Hotels build waterfalls around their pools or construct whole waterfall gardens. Different colored bulbs can be placed strategically in the waterfall to give the effect of colored water. Metal tubes and pipes are also effectively used to produce calming reverberating water sounds.

Waterfalls are mainly built for their visual appeal, but some people, especially in Asia, believe in the supernatural powers of a waterfall. Feng Shui and Vaastu experts believe that having a system of flowing water in the house creates dynamism indicative of progress. In fact, in Asia people who can afford to design their living rooms with a waterfall in them.

Waterfalls provides detailed information about waterfalls, indoor waterfalls, waterfall gardens, waterfall ponds and more. Waterfalls is the sister site of Preformed Pond Liners.

Friday, January 2, 2009

Cocoa Trees

Writen by Dorrie Ruplinger

Cocoa trees can grow as tall as fifty feet although they are usually kept pruned and kept much shorter to make it easier to harvest the cocoa bean pods.

The trees reach their maximum productivity when they are thirty to forty years old. A cocoa tree will live approximately sixty years.

The bean pods grow directly off the trunk and thicker main branches of the tree, not off the leaves as many people think. This is because the pods are heavy. The fragile leaf systems of the tree couldn't support the weight of the pods.

A cocoa tree can have up to one hundred thousand baby-pink and white blossoms every year. The blossoms have no scent. The leaves of the tree vary in color. Young leaves can be pale green, lavender, or purple in color. Mature leaves are dark green. The pods start out green but turn yellow or red when ripe, depending on what type of cocoa tree it is.

There are two main types of cocoa trees. There is the native Central American cocoa tree called the Criollo, and a type called Forastero which is grown mostly in West Africa and Brazil. The Forastero trees produces approximately ninety percent of the world's crop of cocoa beans. The beans from the Criollo are more expensive and are used in high quality chocolate.

Cocoa trees like shade so other tropical trees such as banana trees are planted right next to the cocoa trees. These larger trees that provide shade for the cocoa trees are often called "cocoa mother trees."

The cocoa trees start producing cocoa bean pods after three or four years and continue producing pods for approximately another thirty five years. In most areas, harvesting of the cocoa pods is done twice a year. Ripe pods are approximately eight inches long and three to four inches in diameter. The ripe pods are cut by hand in order to protect the younger pods that are still ripening.

After the pods are cut from the tree they are taken to a fermenting area. There the pods are split open to reveal the pulp and cocoa beans. There are up to forty cocoa beans in every pod. The pulp and beans are scooped out of the pod, placed on banana leaves that are usually laid on the ground (fermenting is also done in baskets and also in large sloping boxes), and then covered with more banana leaves. The pods are left to ferment for several days.

As the beans ferment they lose some of their bitterness and change from a lavender or white color to brown. The fermenting process is important because that is when the beans take on the chocolate taste we are accustomed to. During the fermenting process the beans lose some of their moisture. By the time the beans are ready to be packed in bags for shipping, the moisture content in them is somewhere around five to seven percent.

Dorrie Ruplinger is the publisher of http://www.chocolateistheanswer.com which provides information and resources about Door County Wisconsin parks.

How To Choose A Fountain Pump

Writen by Mike Guista

When replacing a fountain pump or choosing a new one, first there are some key terms to keep in mind:

"Head": This is the maximum vertical lift of the pump. For example, a 6' head means the pump is rated to pump water up to 6 feet high. Note, however, that at 6 feet the pump would be providing very little water, with gallons per hour around zero. So if you need to pump, say, 200 gph at 72", you will probably need about a 300-600 gallon per hour pump to do the job. See a "pump curve" for the amount of water pumped to various heights.Major pump manufacturers include pump curves on their boxes, brochures, or other literature. You should take a good look.

"GPH": Gallons per hour, usually rated at different heights

"GPM": Gallons per minute, usually rated at different heights

"Pump Curve": The amount of water volume "curved" according to various heights. A 500 gallon per hour pump, for instance, might pump 500 gallons per hour at 0" lift, 350 gallons per hour at 24" of lift, and so forth. When buying a pump for the first time or when seeking a replacement pump, it is essential that you know how many gallons per hour you want to pump and at what heighth (head).

Water Volume: The total volume that you will be pumping is controlled by a few factors. One factor is the size of the pump, as covered above. But you also must consider how wide your tubing will be. Tubing is measured in two ways: inside diameter (i.d.) and outside diameter (o.d.). Very skinny i.d. tubing will greatly reduce water flow. Many customers are shocked when they find that, after hooking up their 500 gallon per hour pump to ½" inside diameter tubing, they are only getting what they consider a trickle. Well, about the most they will get is 200 gallons per hour or so under the very best conditions. They have restricted the flow too much by choosing skinny tubing. When purchasing a pump, find out what size of tubing is supposed to go with it. Another problem is running the tubing too far. Long lengths of tubing create resistance. If your pump calls for ½" i.d. tubing, for instance, but you are running the tubing twenty feet from the pump, it is a good idea to use ¾" tubing instead so as not to cut down too much on flow.

How much water do I need? What size of pump?

This question is answered in part by whether you want a "trickle" or a roar. When you buy a fountain, you will usually find a recommended flow. For waterfalls, use this as a rule of thumb: for every inch of stream width or waterfall "sheet," you will need to deliver 100 gallons per hour at the height you're pumping. So if you are building a 12" wide waterfall that is three feet tall, you need to buy a pump that will be pumping 1200 gallons per hour at three feet of height.

For ponds, whenever possible, it is a good idea to recirculate the water once an hour, more often if possible. Thus, if your pond is 500 gallons, try to buy a pump that will recirculate water at a rate of 500 gallons per hour. For really large ponds, this is not necessary and is far too expensive.

For a nice waterfall effect, we usually advise about 4000 gallons per hour or more at the top of the waterfall. This creates enough volume for a wide, crashing spill. Adjust stones to soften the splash if desired.

When Is an External Pump Appropriate?

"In-line" pumps provide the "most bang for the buck" in two ways. For one, the purchase price is quite reasonable for the high volume of water being pumped. But even more importantly, these pumps dramatically outperform typical submersible pumps, cutting electrical costs two to three times. Since electrical costs for a large pond can easily run from thirty to one hundred dollars a month, choosing the most energy-efficient pump is tremendously important.

However, if you need a lot of "head," that is, if you are pumping to a height of more than say, seven or eight feet, or if you must pull the water (not "push", for in-line pumps push water fine but don't pull well) a long distance from the pond to a skimmer located far away, then these pumps probably won't work for you.

How About Battery-Operated Fountain Pumps?

We receive many, many calls about battery-operated pumps. While there are companies who manufacture pumps that can operate on "A" and "AA" batteries, we have not found a battery-operated pump that lasts or that is reasonably priced. For those customers who need battery fountains for wedding centerpieces (a common request), we suggest finding the one you want and buying as many as possible at a store like Wal-Mart. You get the whole fountain for as good of a price as we could get you these specialized pumps all by themselves!

Where is the Pump Made?

Pumps, like anything else, are made all over the world, and we suggest you buy pumps from someone who will stand by a guarantee and who has testing programs before marketing their pumps. It used to be that Asian pumps were quite bad but this is changing. What matters most is how well the pumps have been engineered and the materials used in the production. Italy for quite a while has been the major manufacturer of fountain pumps (think of how long Italians have had fountains), but Germany, Korea, Taiwan, and China are making pumps as well. Most American fountain pump companies (for example, Cal Pumps and Beckett) have their pumps manufactured overseas. As long as American engineering is used and the plans are followed, this should not be a problem.

Should my Pump Have a 2-wire plug or a 3-wire plug?

Outdoor pumps should always use a grounded, 3-wire plug. Indoor fountains sometimes have 2-wire and sometimes 3-wire plugs. For people wanting a really thin cord, 2-wire pumps provide the more aesthetic experience. Some retail stores require 3-wire pumps even for indoor fountains (though, ironically, they might not for aquarium pumps), and these thicker cords can be hidden by plants, stones, or other decorations. All pumps must be connected to a GFI outlet for safety.

Why do pumps burn out so often?

95% of the time the customer has let the pumps get hot by running them dry. Most fountain pumps are water-cooled and once the fountain is dry they burn up. Usually there is nothing you can do about this other than to buy a new pump. Also, however, pumps are supposed to be cleaned every so often by opening up the impeller case on the fountain pump. Follow the manufacturer's directions.

Michael Guista, who has published two books, owns Fountain Mountain, Inc., which distributes fountain pumps, pond lights and filters, and fountains.

Here are some suggested sites:

For Pumps
http://www.cheappumps.com
http://www.fountainmountain.com
http://www.fountaintechpumps.com

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Do Plants Like The Quotexoticsquot

Writen by C Roe

Placement Of Exotic Plants And Trees

Placement of exotic plants and trees is critical for their overall development and long-term survival. It not only determines the general happiness of the plants, but also the overall appeal it gives to the habitat.

You should make the final choice of location only after having considered several other factors. If some part of your house or garden receives too much sunlight, you can grow sun; loving plants that will help to provide shade. It's also important to ensure that the plants have the appropriate space for spreading themselves.

Competing plants shouldn't be grown very near to each other. Dominating and invasive plants and trees should be placed afar from tender plants. You should also keep in mind the ultimate size the plant is likely to achieve. This will avoid obstruction of driveways or sidewalks, not just for you but at times even for your neighbors.

Growing Plants In Containers Can Be Rewarding

If you are eager to incorporate tropical foliage, trees, palms and flowers in your garden, however feel discouraged because of relatively small area, growing plants in containers is the perfect solution. By confining the exotic plants to a relatively small space, maintenance can be less of an unpleasant task. This also gives you the liberty to move them back and forth to different sites, as and when the plant requirement for sunlight and moisture changes. At the same time, you can introduce changes in the overall look of the garden by combining and contrasting with other garden plants.

Exotic plants can be in grown in containers with soil alone or with alterations, or completely soil less. Whatever be the preference, the medium must ensure good drainage and adequate water-retentive capacity. This is best accomplished by using a combination of materials (like sand, gravel along with loam) of various particle sizes to make available small air spaces and free-drainage.

The composition of the soil bed should in essence be rather simple and purposeful. You can either use peat moss or rich loam to constitute the bulk of your mix. Since, peat moss is highly acidic, always add ground limestone to maintain the pH level of soil.

To increase aeration and drainage, you can include pine bark or sand in the mix. Adding Vermiculite to soil will increase its water-retention capacity. For new plants, sparingly applied granular-type fertilizers can be beneficial as a starter feed. Soil-less plants are grown on liquid-feed and addition of fertilizers is advisable for supplying nutrients required by the plant.

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