Teak Furniture And The Benefits Of Using Teak Wood

Writen by Steve Sims

Teak is one of the hardest, strongest and most durable of all woods, highly resistant to rotting and almost impervious to the effect of sun, rain, frost or snow.

These characteristics make it the ideal wood for outdoor furniture as it can be left outside uncovered all 12 months of the year, even in the UK!

The first plantations on the island of Java were planted by the Dutch and are now owned by the Indonesian government. Only a limited number of trees each year are allowed to be felled and an equal amount of reforestation ensures there is no detrimental effect to the country's natural resources. Faraway Furniture only use Teak from PERUM PERHUTANI forestry plantation and we hold a re-forestation certificate directly from the Indonesian government.

For example at Faraway Furniture, we source only the best quality heartwood Grade A teak for our products, made of trees of not less than 80 years of age. We only use teak which has been kiln dried to 8 - 12% moisture levels and we urge you to compare our quality of wood with other manufacturers who often use lower quality Teak with a much higher water content. Please be aware that low quality Teak (also known as sapwood) contains only a fraction of the amount of natural oil and rubber. This will mean that all of the necessary attributes of good quality Teak will be absent and the wood is likely to decay and rot within a short space of time. Our furniture can be left outside and with little care will be with you and your family for generations to enjoy.

When you receive your furniture, it will be in its natural state. Unless specifically requested, we do not oil our teak as many people prefer the natural colour of teak wood. Please be aware that pre-oiled teak is a common method used by less ethical manufacturers to hide the low quality and inferior grade of the teak wood.

Taking care of your new Teak Furniture:

Teak is a unique and durable hardwood which requires little or no care.

If you prefer your teak, like many do, in its natural state which is a graceful silver grey colour, then you literally have to do nothing. Teak, unlike other hardwoods, does not need any oiling, staining, lacquering or painting to keep healthy and maintain its durability. Treating the teak is only recommended if you prefer the golden yellow colour of the wood. Whether to oil or not, is purely a personal choice, doing either will not harm or detract from the strength or durability of the wood and will not affect our warranty.

The only maintenance we recommend for your teak furniture is occasional cleaning. This should be done with a mild soap (such as gentle hand cleaning soap) and warm water to preserve its natural elements.

For more stubborn stains such as red wine, a teak cleaner can be used or the stain area can be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper. You can order teak cleaner from our online store. History of teak/about teak:

Teak (Tectona grandis), is one of the most valued woods in the world, and grows in areas between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn. Teak trees can grow up to 150 feet tall and have large, leathery, reddish green leaves that are shed in the drier months of the year. Teak's sap has natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties that make it resistant to parasites and disease. Teak also contains rubber and silica, which repel water. The wood also has great pliability, making it better able to withstand high pressure without cracking. This, combined with the fact that it is an extremely heavy wood, with dense fibres that make it relatively easy to cut and graft, make it one of the finest woods from which to construct outdoor furniture.

All teak from Indonesia must be certified by the government to verify that it comes from an approved source.

These strict environmental laws are saving many natural Teak forests.

The Teak plantations provide economic and environmental relief. They are the major source of income for many villages in tropical areas. Teak is increasing in value by up to 6% every year and has revenue of up to $30,000 US per trunk, which makes it a very resourceful cash crop.

Interesting facts about teak:

In the old cave temples of Salsette and elsewhere in Western India, pieces of teak more than 2000 years old have been found in good condition.

Teak was most sought after for building war ships in the 18 th century. Apart from being extremely tough and water resistant, it also does not splinter under gunfire. Splintering wood was the main cause of casualties in 18 th century naval warfare.

Teak is very dense and cannot float when first cut down. Thus loggers have to girdle the tree and let it dry for up to three years before they can float it to the mill.

Teak leafs are used as sandpaper by locals in the Javanese jungle due to its rough and extremely tough surface.

Faraway Furniture are Teak Garden Furniture experts, so please contact them at http://www.farawayfurniture.co.uk for more details, products and information.

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Benefits Of Mulch

Writen by Khieng Chho

Environmentalists are advocates for a clean and green environment. Their projects may start from the segregation of bio and non-bio degradable waste materials. Planting of trees in your backyard is also another.

In your own simple way…you can also be an environmentalist. Dare to make a difference…

Flowering plants, fruit-bearing trees, green meadow…these are all creations that need proper care. All of them add beauty to the surroundings. Now, your responsibility is to take care of the said creations.

Plants are very important because aside from adding splendor to the environment, they can also be the major source of food for both human beings and animals. There are ways that are designed to sustain nourishment in a plant's life.

Aside from water and sunlight that are considered to be the basic needs of plants, natural components are also necessary for its growth. Mulch is one.

Mulch refers to any material placed over the soil in your garden. It helps in keeping moisture, deter weeds and protect the soil from erosion. Mulch has been used by most of the farmers and gardeners in the maintenance of the plants. For busy people who still want to ensure the health of the plants, mulch is best to use. It comes from various sources.

This natural component can either be purchased in a garden center or you can make your own by means of the shredding leaves, roots and other organic materials. It serves as an abundant fertilizer for your plants.

Here are some of the benefits of mulch:

• It is environmental friendly.

Rather than throwing the shred organic materials particularly the falling leaves coming from the tree, you can recycle it and create them into mulch. Through this, you are able to save money and preserve the environment.

• It is time-saving device.

It does not require you to consume much time just to tilt the soil and spray your plants all the time. When you put mulch into the plants it will prevent the weeds from sprouting into the garden.

• Constant watering is not necessary.

Mulch keeps the moisture of the soil so that you will not water the plants regularly. Mulch also helps in neutralizing the amount of heat transpiring in the plants.

• Plants are less susceptible to soil erosion.

Mulch enriches the soil and it will prevent rain from washing away the soil. A thicker layer of mulch is mostly preferable.

The only disadvantage about mulch is its unpleasant odor. You can always ignore it if you are really after the nourishment of the plants in your garden.

Khieng 'Ken' Chho is author and owner of Garden Mulch. For related articles, visit Ken's website: http://mulch.wicwoc.com

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Understanding Weeds But Mostly How To Kill Em

Writen by Linda J Bruton

When I was a child, I loved to pick Dandelions. The pretty yellow flowers were small, colorful, and looked nice tucked behind my ear! However, if one had popped up in the front yard, my hair accessory would have been considered an atrocity!

I often feel sorry for weeds. They are plants too. In fact, if you flipped through a botany field guide, you may be surprised at the plants you find classified as weeds! But simply put, a weed is really defined as a plant out of place. Clover in one persons flowing lawn may be considered fashionable, whereas on another, not. Golf greens are often covered with bentgrass, but if it crept up in some yards, it would be considered a weed.

While perhaps pretty on their own, weeds stick out like a sore thumb in yards because they may be of a different color, size or texture. This is distracting from the beauty of the otherwise sprawling green turf. Aside from aesthetic values, weeds can also drain nutrients from grass and other plants, and this competition of resources can thin what should be lush. And what's worse is that weeds are fighters. They can withstand conditions that your wanted greens cannot, so they are almost inevitable!

Treating weeds begins with correct identification. There are two classifications of weeds: Grassy and Broadleaf. These are further broken down into groups like perennial, biennial, and winter and summer annuals. These, as you may gave guessed, depict their growing patterns. Grassy weeds are, as they sound, like grass. However, they are unwanted grass, or grass that is growing in a different type of lawn. Some examples are annual bluegrass, barnyard grass, crabgrass, creeping bentgrass and foxtail. Broadleaf weeds may appear more to be what most people picture weed-like growth to be. Since they are broad, they are more easily distinguished. Some examples are yarrow, knotweed, chickweed, clover, ground ivy, thistle and my favorite, the dandelion.

Once you understand what is growing in your lawn and decide that it is unwanted, you can treat it and/or control it. Weeds can actually be controlled by your lawn care maintenance. If you maintain a dense and vigorously growing lawn, you are already combating the problem. Weeds can be a sign of underlying problems in the environment beneath. So by just killing them, you are simply putting on a band-aid, not solving the problem.

For example, some weeds grow in situations of compacted soil, such as knotweed. You can also control the growth by taking better care of the grass, rather than focus on the weeds. You can raise or lower the mowing height, change the frequency of mowing and changing the amount of time between irrigating. Also, you can increase or decrease application of fertilizer and aerify the soil. This will maintain better grass, thus keeping the growth dense and vigorous, which as discussed above, does not attract weeds.

In addition to culture practices, sometimes the assistance of chemicals is needed to control weed growth. In that case, there are several types of herbicides that can be used. Preemergence herbicides will affect seeds that are germinating. Since they are best used two to three weeks before the seeds start to grow, these work best to combat annual weeds. Postmergence herbicides are used, as their prefix implies, after the weeds have sprouted. Since they must be absorbed through the leaves, this types of herbicide works best with a spray.

These can be used at any time, but are most effective when the weed is still young and growing. Selective postmergence herbicides are usually used to control annual, biennial and perennial broadleaf weeds, as they will not damage grass. But, they can kill trees, shrubs and flowers. These have to be used in proper conditions as well, with no rain in the forecast for two days to follow, air 60-80 degrees and no winds. Finally, non-selective postmergence herbicides kill all types of weeds, and are best used to spot treat grassy weeds that are not affected by the selective herbicides.

So next time you see a Dandelion plant growing, don't make a wish and blow the seeds toward in the direction of a lawn fanatic- they may not get the perfectly manicured lawn they wished for!

For hundreds of other tips for creating your own perfect lawn, be sure to visit: http://www.YourPerfectLawn.com

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Bare Root Roses What To Look For When Buying

Writen by David Hallstrom

The first thing to look for is the plant's grade.

Nearly all bare root roses sold today are grown in the field and are approximetly two years old. They are sold in three main grades.

Grade 1 is the best and most expensive grade. In order to obtain this grade the plants are required to have at least three strong cains, two of which must be at least 18 inches in length for hybrid teas anf grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter.

Grade 1 1/2 is the most popular grade due to it's lesser price. In order to obtain this grade the plants are required to have at least two strong canes which must be at least 15 inches long for hybrid teas and grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter.

Grade 2 is the least expensive grade. These plants are only required to have two canes 12 inches or longer. These plants can be a gamble as they may be stunted.

Note: Measurements are for plants when dug from the fields. Sometimes the plant sellers will shorten the length of the canes for easier handling. The number of canes remain the same and usually the thicker the diameter the better the plant.

There are three main sources for buying roses.

Nurseries are normally more expensive but are usually the best places to buy your plants. Plants are normally kept in sawdust thereby allowing you to inspect the roots. Plants with badly damaged roots are less likely to do well and may not make it at all. Additionally, a nursery usually carries a large variety of new and old standards. Finally, a good nurseryperson can provide advice as to which plants do best in your area and climate.

Mail order suppliers are normally less expensive and usually have a greater variety of plants than your local nursery, however you can not inspect the plants before buying and they sometimes arrive damaged. Furthermore, although most mail order suppliers are reputable a few are disreputable and ship very poor quality plants. Additionally, it is hard and can be expensive to return plants that you are unhappy with.

Supermarkets are inexpensive but usually carry a limited variety of plants. Additionally the plants usually come with their roots wrapped in plastic, therefore you are unable to inspect the roots for damage. Plants can be treated roughly in supermarkets, not only by the people that stock them, but also by customers. Therefore, there is a much greater potential for damage.

Should you buy newly developed varieties or the old standards?

Which variety of plant you purchase depends on your taste and what is available for your climate.

There are hundreds of varieties of roses, however I prefer the older time proven standards. They may not come in as many color variations but they are reliable, still come in a large variety of colors and are usually more heavily scented (I like to smell the roses). My two favorites are both red. The Chrysler Imperial is a full well shaped velvety dark crimson red flower with a rich delightful fragrance which grows on a heavily flowering medium height bush. Mister Lincoln has long buds with full open dark rich red fragrant flowers with long stems and grows on a tall bush with dark glossy leaves.

Roses, if properly cared for, can last years. Therefore, in order to obtain the most enjoyment from your plants it is a good idea to do your research. Spend some time looking at types, colors, shapes and sizes. Check catalogues, the internet, check out friend's gardens and if possible go to an arboretum or nursery. Look at and smell the roses before buying.

Permission is given to reprint this article providing credit is given to the author, David G. Hallstrom, and a link is listed to http://www.nationalrealtorsdirectory.com the owner of this article.

David G. Hallstrom, Sr. is a retired private investigator and is curently the publisher of several internet directories including http://www.nationalrealtorsdirectory.com

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Purple Martin Houses More Than A Desirable Residence

Writen by Roy Thomsitt

No garden would ever be the same without the sounds, colours and movement of the birds that visit it. The British and Americans appreciate birds in their gardens more than most, and in the UK, the million plus membership of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) is testimony to that. Not only do we love having birds in the garden, many encourage them by providing bird feeders and bird houses, or nest boxes as we call them in the UK.

The birds themselves come in all shapes and sizes, so you will find bird houses have evolved to cater for the many different species that might visit the garden in the breeding season. For gardeners who like to see the birds close at hand, bird houses can be an integral part of the garden, even the house itself in some cases.

While bird houses are functional, and intended as a place to breed, they can also make attractive garden decor. Some bird houses are, indeed, very decorative. They can even be whimsical and humourous. There really are some wonderful and unusual designs on the market. More conventional bird houses are also readily available, especially online.

One type of bird house, though, is particularly important, and that is especially designed for purple martins.

Purple Martins – A Breed Apart For Human Intervention

The type of birds you get in the garden will depend on where you live, of course, but you may find specially designed bird houses for your favourite birds, whether they are bluebirds, robins, purple martins, or other favourites.

Purple martins, though, are very special when it comes to people providing their housing needs. They are much loved visitors to parts of North America, where they go to breed every spring and summer. One remarkable thing about these fork tailed swallows is that they actually depend on human intervention for their housing needs. In other words purple martin bird houses are more than a desirable residence for the purple martins; they are an essential to their survival in North America.

If you are excited about birds visiting and breeding in your garden, and are lucky enough to live in an area where purple martins are summer visitors, then you can have many hours of joy every day knowing that you are also providing an important service. The purple martins will not come down to feed in the garden, but you can watch them fly off to feed on high flying insects, and return to base to feed their hungry young. That is, if you have one or more purple martin bird houses.

Later in the season, you can watch the baby purple martins learn to fly as they depart from the nests you provide. So, having purple martin bird houses is much more than adding garden decor; they are like a living entertainment centre for those lazy summer afternoons in the garden. You can relax, knowing that you are doing the world a big favour by helping to perpetuate the purple martin species.

Purple martin houses come in many forms, but you need to bear in mind that they breed in colonies, so putting up a single bird box for one nest is no help. The other thing to consider is that the purple martin needs height; they will only breed if well clear of the ground. Despite those limitations, purple martin bird houses come in many designs and have evolved to make the most of what the birds need. Some can be very attractive too, making them a welcome addition to the garden décor.

This bird house article was written by Roy Thomsitt, owner author of the Gardens and Decor web site.

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Organic Gardening A Growing Trend

Writen by Judith Schwader

In the past decade and a half, organic products have achieved almost mainstream status. Where organic produce was a specialty item in a few upscale grocery stores in the early 1990s, today's supermarkets commonly offer organically produced items.

An upward spiral is happening: Organics have become more available and more affordable. The result is that a larger proportion of the population buys organics. This leads to an increased general awareness of the benefits for people and the environment of organic production.

Greater awareness of the benefits contributes to a greater demand for organic products. Higher demand encourages growers to an even larger production of organics. Increased production results in organics being increasingly available and affordable… and upward the trend goes.

During the 1990s, organic product sales dramatically increased at the rate of more than 20 percent every year. By the beginning of the 21st century, sales of organic products passed the $9 billion mark. Today in 2006, the majority of US consumers (7 out of 10) buy organic food at least some of the time.

These statistics are encouraging indications that organic production is here to stay. This is good news for the well-being of people and the environment.

~~What ORGANIC means~~

Fifteen years ago, organic growers might have had to explain to shoppers at a farmer's market what the label "organic" means. Today, most people understand that for a product to be labeled organic, it had to be grown without using synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or hormone supplements.

But organic growing is a system, and is not just a matter of substituting natural materials for synthetics. Whether on the large scale of the market farmer or the small scale of the backyard gardener, the underlying principles of an organic system are to work within the boundaries of nature to grow healthy food.

The system starts with a focus on healthy soil, which supports healthy plants. When plants are strong, they are naturally disease and pest resistant.

~~Why ORGANIC is better~~

Rather than apply chemicals to cure disease and control pests as conventional growers must do, organic growers are oriented toward prevention through continuous soil improvements. It's a big difference in attitude: the chemical quick-fix vs. long-term soil building.

The benefits of taking the long-term approach are immediate. Rather than having to keep indoors during a "re-entry interval," (after using poisonous chemical pesticides, there is a required safety period when people must avoid the area), organic gardeners never experience exile from the location where they grow food.

Also, there is the difference in the effect on local water sources. Organic gardeners don't contaminate ponds and groundwater with synthetics.

In short, gardeners who live where they grow food have a particular motivation and advantage in using an organic system: personal health and safety. But everyone benefits when organic methods are used because they are sustainable: wholesome food is produced in a system that respects the natural environment.

Life-time gardener Judith Schwader specializes in organic gardening methods. She shares expertise, humor, and advice for your gardening success at the interactive website A to Z Gardening. Visit now for valuable information to enhance your gardening experience. Also visit FB Home for additional home and garden information.

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What Does A Brassia Orchid Plant And A Spider Have In Common

Writen by Robert Roy

What does a spider and an orchid plant have in common? Yes, Halloween is a special day. Brassia orchid plant is a name given to these spider orchids. Indeed, you can see the resemblance to the spider in this picture.

These beautiful orchids are from the Genus, Brassia, the spider orchid. The long and slender petals and septals are like spider legs. They are named in honor of William Brass, a 19th-century British botanical illustrator, this orchid grows in the wet forests of tropical Central and South America, but it is also comfortable in cultivation.

Many species in the genus Brassia orchid plants are pollinated by parasitic wasps, which normally lay their eggs on spiders. The patterns and structure of Brassia orchids resemble a spider in its web enough to encourage these wasps to lay their eggs in the plants' blossoms and in doing so pollinate them.

The flower spike will provide you with a number of these flowers which do resemble spiders along the spike. Brassias are crossed with Miltonia and Ondontoglossums to produce some very pretty orchid plants. Some have flowers that reach about 10 inches in diameter.

And did I mention they are extremely fragrant as well.

They are not hard to grow but do require some specific parameters for their growth. First, spider orchid plants do require either high intensity bright light. This can be diffuse light. They should not have the direct noon-time sunlight.

During the day and into their growth and blooming period they like temps between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. At night the temps for the Brassia orchid plant should be between 55 and 65. Just after their blooming period the Brassia orchid plant need a rest for several weeks. This means that the temperature should be kept on the lower end of the range, 55 - 60 degrees.

As far as watering, they need to be kept moist but not wet during their growing season. The growing period is during the development of the pseudopods which are flat and when the inflorescence (flower spike). After this period you should water only once a week.

Spider orchid plants do need both humidity and air circulation. The humidity is between 50-70%. This is a little higher than most orchids. For air circulation you can use a small fan, but don't point the fan on the plant.

Now when you remember or see a spider you can imagine the beautiful Brassia orchid plant.

Did you enjoy this article? If you did sign up for more in our monthly newsletter. You will recieve free "All About Orchids" e-book and a 10% discount on an orchid plant.

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How To Win The War Against Slugs And Snails

Writen by Hugh Harris-Evans

Slugs are one of the most hated of garden pests. You may have spent time carefully planting out your seedlings into the bed, but when you return next morning, you find chewed leaves, the growing points nibbled away and a mass of slimy trails all around. All clear evidence that garden slugs, or sometimes snails, have been enjoying a nocturnal feast at your expense.

Slugs thrive in moist temperate conditions and feed at night when temperatures are greater than 50°F. They love mild winters, wet springs, moist summers, and irrigation. When you look at ways of protecting your plants, the large number of defences and remedies that have been suggested indicates the extent of the problem.

Since slugs need somewhere to hide during the day, the first line of defense is to keep your garden tidy and remove any flat stones, boards, pots or piles of damp plant refuse. Once you have achieved this, here is a list of other methods that you can try:

Barriers. Slugs dislike rough surfaces so sprinkle crushed eggshells, sharp grit, lime or Diatomaceous Earth around the stems of your plants. Copper strips are also an effective barrier since contact produces an electrical charge which slugs dislike. Copper wire shaped into a tight conical spiral with the narrow end buried in the soil is an alternative. In each case make sure that there are no slugs inside the barrier when you put it in place.

Active measures.

Collect by hand and destroy by sprinkling with salt or dunking in a bucket of soapy water. This is best done after dark.

Trap by placing small pieces of board or flat stones near your plants. Each morning check the traps and dispose of all slugs that you find.

Beer trap. Sink a small bowl into the bed and fill with a mixture of beer and water. Slugs are attracted by the smell and will fall in and drown. Some people have found non-alcholic beer to be more effective. Keep the bowl covered to prevent other creatures taking the bait. There is a commercial version called Slug-X which can just be placed on the surface of the soil.

Treats. Place grapefruit peel or old lettuce leaves near the plants you are trying to protect in the hopes that the slugs will be distracted. Another suggestion is to plant marigolds in the bed since slugs love these and so will ignore your favored plants. However others claim that slugs seem to avoid plants with strong-smelling foliage, such as marigolds.

Iron Phosphate granules. These granules have a wheat aroma to attract slugs. After eating them, slugs stop feeding, dry out, and die within a few days. This is a non-toxic product which is available commercially as Sluggo.

Chemical treatments include ammonia. Dilute with an equal quantity of water and spray on soil and leaves - test each plant first by spraying on a small section and leaving for a couple of days. The other chemical is metaldehyde which is sold as slug pellets. This is not recommended since it is harmful to birds and pets.

Other methods.

Encourage your local wildlife to do the job for you. Birds, frogs and toads will all eat slugs. So feed the birds and welcome frogs into your garden pond.

Water your plants in the morning so that the foliage will not stay damp overnight.

If all else fails, change your plants. In general, slugs dislike anything with leaves that are glossy, waxy or hairy so that there is quite a long list of slug-resistant plants that you can choose as an alternative. As with many aspects of gardening, you will often find that choosing plants that are suited to the soil conditions in your garden will produce the best results. If this means growing flowers that that tend to be ignored by slugs, you will have a far easier time than if you have to wage a constant battle to protect plants that are being continually attacked.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com

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How To Make A Weed Dabber

Writen by Michael McGroarty

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

The tool that I am going to tell you about is for using herbicides such as RoundUp. The biggest mistakes that people make when using non-selective herbicides like RoundUp is overspray getting the herbicide on plants that they did not intend to spray, and over applying the product. If you spray to the point of run off, you are applying way too much.

The weed dabber is a tool used for spot treating weeds without getting the herbicide on other plants.

Start by going to your hardware store and buying a piece of 1- 1/2" PVC pipe. You only need a piece 30" long, but they might make you buy a 10' section. It's pretty cheap though. You'll need a plastic PVC cap for one end of the pipe, and on the other end you'll need an adapter to convert the PVC pipe to a standard pipe thread. You'll have to let the clerk at the hardware store help you find the best combination of fittings to use. What you need to do is to get the PVC pipe reduced down to a male garden hose type fitting. Hardware stores sell brass fittings that convert standard pipe thread to the same thread used on garden hoses.

Probably what you'll end up with is an adapter that will convert the 1-1/2" PVC to 3/4" male pipe. Then an adapter to convert the 3/4" male pipe to a male garden house fitting. They also make a cap that you can install on the end of a garden hose, you'll need one of those. This cap must have a rubber garden hose washer in it so it seals properly.

The PVC fittings have to be glued on so you'll have to pick up some PVC pipe glue and cleaner. You have to use the cleaner to remove the film and gloss from the PVC pipe and fittings before you glue them. Once you have them cleaned, just apply a coating of glue to both the pipe and the fitting, slide the fitting on and twist it at the same time. Hold the fitting tight for 60 seconds and it will be glued tightly.

Cut a piece of pipe 30" long and glue the pipe cap on one end, and the PVC to pipe thread adapter on the other end. Apply a small amount of pipe dope or Teflon tape to the threads of the adapter, and screw the male garden house fitting onto the adapter. Screw the garden hose cap to the male garden hose fitting.

Now back to the end of the pipe that you glued the pipe cap to. Drill a very small hole right in the middle of the pipe cap. You might have to experiment a little with the size of the hole you need, but make sure you start with a very small hole. I'd start with 1/16". Cut a piece of regular household sponge in a square about 1-1/2" square. What you are going to do is place this sponge over the small hole you drilled in the pipe cap, and secure it there by covering it with a piece of lightweight screen or mesh cloth. Maybe even a piece of an onion bag. You can secure the mesh to the PVC pipe with a hose clamp, or electrical tape.

Remove the garden hose cap from the other end of the PVC pipe, and fill the pipe with pre-mixed (ready to use) RoundUp. Replace the garden hose cap and you have yourself a weed dabber. The RoundUp will seep out the hole in the end of the pipe cap and be absorbed by the sponge. As long as the garden hose cap is tight, the vacuum in the pipe will keep the herbicide from running out too fast. Once the sponge is damp, you can start dabbing weeds. Remember, you only want the weeds damp and not dripping wet. As long as you are leaving some RoundUp on the weeds as you dab them, the herbicide should kill them.

Depending on the temperatures, it could take a week or so before you can see the effects of the herbicide. If the sponge gets too dry you can loosen the cap a little to release the vacuum and more herbicide will be released onto the sponge. Or you can simply turn the tool upside down and that should let some air into the chamber, thus releasing the vacuum. As always, read the label and follow the directions on the herbicide package.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

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Four Ways To Make A Beautiful Bunch Of Dry Flowers

Writen by Robbie Darmona

Dry flowers are as beautiful as they are hard to make. Here are the four possible ways of getting flowers dried as soon as possible.

Air-dried flowers

This method is the simplest. It involves hanging of the flowers upside down in a warm and dry place. Drying takes about two weeks, depending on the specificity of the flowers. Wild and garden flowers can easily be dried. Dry flowers are also made out of "everlasting" plants. For best effects, you had better bind the flowers together in bunches.

Dry flowers can be produced by mechanical pressure used upon them. This is the second way to dry a plant. It is easy although its main feedback is that it leaves the dry flowers flat and without shape. Take a heavy object and place it on the wrapped flowers. For the wrapping you can use unglazed paper, such as newsprint or a telephone book. The drying takes from two up to four weeks to complete.

A wise way to prevent flattening of the flowers when drying is by burying them in drying materials, such as mixtures from sand, or borax, or corn meal. These three materials can be useful only in drying of specific kinds of flowers. A universal solution is silica gel. This gel is more expensive than the above-mentioned materials, but one of its basic priorities over others is that it can be used over and over again without having to replace it. It can virtually dry any kind of flower. Getting dry flowers with the usage of silica gel is very easy. The gel has special indication when it is wet, so that you can conclude whether the flowers are dried. Usually the gel is white or blue when it is dry, and is composed of tiny crystals. If infiltrated by water, its colour gets more and more pinkish. When the flowers are dried, the colour of the gel will automatically change. Unused silica gel must be kept in air-tight containers. To dry the gel itself after using it with the flowers, you need to spread it on a tray and bake it in the oven until the crystals are blue again.

Talking about ovens, another great way to get your dry flowers is by putting the bunch in the microwave. It can take no more than several minutes but the effects are really magnificent. To prevent extreme drying, you may put a cup of water in the microwave before getting the flowers inside. The bunch itself must by surrounded by spread crystals of silica gel. Put the flowers in a microwave container or on a flat tray and keep the switch on up until three minutes. The dry flowers will be ready depending on their density and the size and number of petals. The heating time for denser plants with many petals will be about 3 minutes. Smaller flowers will take a minute or less to dry. After procuring the dried flowers, you should let them in the silica crystals for 12 to 24 hours, so that moisture can be thoroughly absorbed. Keep the dry flowers in air-tight containers, as microwave drying is strongly influenced by moist conditions. To prevent the dried flowers from ruining, you had better spray the petals with lacquer.

Dry flowers can be produced also by combining the four ways, depending on your own needs.

Article by Robbie Darmona - an article author who writes on a wide variety of subjects. For more information click Dry Flowers

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Unifying And Separating Landscaping Planting Beds

Writen by Steve Boulden

There are thousands of plant combinations, companion plantings, and color combinations that will work well in landscaping and garden planting schemes.

And form a beginner or do it yourselfer standpoint, simplicity and repitition in planting is a good starting point that can be added to later. I usually say to pick a color scheme of two or three colors and repeat it throughout the garden.

For more curious, experimental, or advanced home landscapers there may be a feel for planting in masses or even random, assorted, and wildflower and ornamental grass beds.

In any instance, there's always a chance that even the best of planting intentions can disrupt harmony, balance, and unity in the garden instead of creating it. Periodically adding a neutral colored plant throughout your landscape can help unify planting beds that differ in color, texture, and even height.

Silver or gray plants such as Lambs Ears, Artemesia, Dusty Miller, Santolina, Sage, Horehound, and others are considered neutral colored.

Using white flowers as a neutral also works very well. Anything white is a natural focal point and especially in the garden. In a mass of green foliage, orange flowers, mixed flowers, etc., white always draws our eyes to it. Using it throughout the garden will create a sense of unity. Use white sparingly. Too much of it tends to feel cluttered.

Unifying a garden that's out of sorts is really quite simple. As well as moving and matching existing elements, try adding a neutral color plant to the different planting areas.

Separating or "buffering" beds from each other can be as simple as adding a neutral or group of neutrals between colors or beds.

Written by Steve Boulden. Steve is the owner and chief designer for S&S Designed Landscaping in Carlsbad, NM. He is also the creator of The Landscape Design Site which offers free professional landscaping advice, tips, plans, and ideas to do it yourselfers and homeowners. For more free information on landscaping and garden plants, visit his site at http://www.the-landscape-design-site.com/plantselection.html

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Five Plants For Your Desert Backyard

Writen by Cheryl Cholley

Living in the desert Southwest can be interesting, exhilarating, and sometimes trying.
Take for example, your Desert Backyard. Sure, you may want to have an emerald green expanse of lawn and trees, offset by a lovely rose garden or expansive beds of petunias and violets. Don't get me wrong, I love a well-kept lawn, but in the desert - it's just somehow wrong.

Most cities in the Southwest have restrictions on water use, or at the very least your neighbors will frown on extravagant use of the precious fluid. So let's take a look at what you can do to make your yard blend in with your surroundings and create interest to passers-by as well as for your own family.

Here are five of my favorite plants for a distinctive desert landscape

1. Soaptree Yucca - This plant has long narrow spiky leaves attached to a main trunk-like body. The leaves are similar in appearance to an aloe, but thin, without the succulent centers. At the top of the main trunk a long stalk shoots up and at the top of the stalk a bunch of white flowers sprouts in the spring.

2. Ocotillo - A member of the cactus family, this plant is characterized by its long spiny "fingers" that grow from a single point at its base. As many as 75 of these canes can grow on one plant. Ocotillo occasionally sprouts tiny leaves all along the canes, especially after a rain. The ends of the canes sprout red flowers in spring to early summer.

3. Verbena - A flowering shrub that makes a good bedding plant or ground cover. Plants normally grow to one or two feet tall and a foot and a half wide. Some varieties grow to a height of four or five feet. Flowers range from yellow and white, to orange, red, and scarlet.

4. Palo Verde - A tree whos name means green stick in Spanish. It is a spiny green multi-trunked deciduous tree. The leaves are tiny, growing in matched pairs on both sides of a main stem. The flowers are yellow and proliferous. They produce a pod that contains six or eight seeds in each one similar to peas or beans.

5. Mexican Bird of Paradise - A perennial evergreen plant that is drought resistant, easy to grow and lovely to look at. The leaves are similar to ferns. The flowers are yellow with orange and red centers.

With a selection of the right desert plants, your backyard can be virtually maintenance free and perpetually beautiful to behold.

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Fragrant Fine Art Give Your Garden A Design Thats All Your Own

Writen by Anne Clarke

The very best gardeners are those who recognize gardening as an art form and not just as a hobby. There are several things to consider when you begin to plant your garden this season. From your potted plants to your flowerbeds, and even accessories like waterfalls, stone walkways, garden benches, statuettes and more, there are many options for you before you begin. So take the time to select carefully.

The creative gardener will plot out his or her floral décor, not only in a way that accommodates his or her personal taste, but also considering the needs of the plant or flower and where it should be placed outdoors.

For example: many flowers need excessive sunlight, if you can find a few different kinds of flowers to place in a bed that gets direct sunlight for a good portion of the day, you can then design a color scheme suitable for that bed. Consider that some flowers will grow taller, and some will remain small, that some will fill out across the bed and some will remain exactly where you plant them. You will want to have a somewhat specific design in mind for your garden décor before getting started—and even before you purchase your plants.

The art of gardening is a wonderful thing. You can enjoy the outdoors while you create. And then, aside from the maintenance your garden will require, you can enjoy the garden you have made, sit outside and relax—observing the beauty of your own creation.

Find out about the kinds of flowers you want to plant before you plant them. Check on how much light they need, how much water they need, and what are the typical kinds of surroundings that will be best for a successful result. There will be some types of plants or flowers that you cannot use in your garden unless you create the conditions in your garden under which they will thrive.

However, it is possible to do this, to design an area suited for the particular flower or plant you want in your garden. Let's say that you want to plant a flower that needs to remain somewhat cool and does not want much sunlight at all. Well, the summer will be hot and the plant, if simply planted, will not survive. Nevertheless there are ways to work around the special needs of your plant or flowers. For example: if a flower you really want in your garden has the special needs I mentioned above, consider a waterfall to keep it cooler, if there is not enough shade provided beside the waterfall, perhaps you can build or install something to induce shade, like a covered walkway or a canopy, maybe a gazebo—or maybe something as simple as planting a tree that will provide enough shade.

Let your garden be a perfect reflection of your own personal style and luxurious taste, whether your garden is elegant and simplistic, or elaborate and luxurious. Your garden should be something to be proud of.

Check out our website for more artistic gardening ideas today. There is a lot to learn, but be creative and inventive, too. You will be thrilled with your garden when you purchase the right plants and flowers, use the best garden equipment there is, and have an idea planned out for how your garden will work, thrive and be a pleasant, fragrant place for you to be this season.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on gardening please visit garden art.

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Garden Gazebo A Stunning Addition To Any Landscape

Writen by Jacob Martus

For centuries, individuals have enjoyed the elegance and splendor of the garden gazebo. A garden gazebo is a great way to add a vantage point to look out upon your garden. It also adds a peaceful place from which you can really enjoy your life, and your garden.

Careful planning is required before deciding on a gazebo for your garden. Depending upon the region you live in, the material used for the gazebo construction is a very important option to consider. Most garden gazebos come in pine or cedar wood, but vinyl and metal options do exist.

A wooden garden gazebo can really accent your flora by contrasting the colors in your garden with the natural color of the wood. If you plan on purchasing a wooden garden gazebo, you will probably have to decide between pine or cedar wood. While pine is more affordable, cedar is less prone to rot and ages to a beautiful grey.

When deciding between metal gazebos, it is integral for you to decide which metal to choose. Metal gazebos come in aluminum, steel, or wrought iron. A wrought iron gazebo adds a very rustic and gothic effect to your garden, while steel and aluminum remain fairly plain.

No matter the material used, a garden gazebo is a great way to add a touch of elegance to your landscape.

For more great information about the gazebo, visit my gazebo website.

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Avoid This Common Mistake That Can Kill Your Bonsai Tree

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Do you know what the most common cause of death for bonsai trees is? Believe it or not, it is improper watering.

Most people think that watering should be the simplest of matters when, in fact, for bonsai trees at least, it is the most important thing that you can do and not do it correctly can kill your tree. In fact, improper watering kills more bonsai's than anything else.

Bonsai trees root in special soil that is rather porous and has quick drainage. For this reason the bonsai must be watered frequently, however, care mus be taken to not overwater as standing water can cause fungus to grow and contribute to root rot.

Here's some steps that you can take to avoid under watering or over watering your bonsai:

In order to determine if your bonsai needs water or not you must test the soil to see how moist it is. Touch the top of the soil with your finger and if it feels dry dig a little deeper to see how far the dryness extends. If you want a more precise method you can buy a moisture gauge which takes into the soil and we'll tell you what watering is needed.

It's a good practice to keep the container you're bonsai within into a buck of water so that water can be soaked up from the bottom about once every four weeks. let the water soak In for 20 minutes or so and then remove the pot. Be sure to always left by the container and never by the trunk of the tree.

your container should have a drainage hole In the bottom and a tray underneath to catch the excess water. If you find water pooling of a tray for too long you might want to make sure to remove the water so that it doesn't collect from the roots causing rot and contributing to the buildup of mold.

when the bonsai is growing during the spring and summer you want to water daily making sure that water flows through the entire container and out the bottom but not so much that it is standing in water. You may actually have to water more than once a day depending on the soil in your climate as well as the species of tree. In the fall and winter when growth has slowed you will not need to water so much.

some types of bonsai like flowering and deciduous trees need more water and other types such as conifers need a bit less. You'll need to experiment to find out what the right amount of water for your bonsai is. Be on the lookout for wilting flowers and curled leaves which can indicate lack of water and adjust accordingly.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://bonsai.garden-corner.com where you can learn more about bonsai trees.

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What Organic Really Means

Writen by Fran Black

The word "organic" may appear on packages of meat, cartons of milk or eggs, cheese and other single-ingredient foods. Certified organic requires the rejection of synthetic agrochemicals, irradiation and genetically engineered foods or ingredients. Literally, of course, the term is a redundancy: all food is composed of organic chemicals (complex chemicals containing carbon). Any materials used in the production or processing of organic food must be proven safe. Awareness is growing about the value of organic foods. But, whether organic chicken or pesticide-free lettuce represents "healthier" alternatives has long been a subject for debate.

Organic farming is one of the fastest growing segments of the U.S. Gardening organically is much more than what you don't do. In fact, sales of organics have surged more than 20 percent each year in the past decade. In terms of number of farms, acreage and value of production, the organic food industry is growing at a rate of 20-30% per year. As commodity programs are eliminated, more farmers have discovered that organic production is a legitimate and economically viable alternative enterprise. The growth in the number of organic farmers has increased steadily, similar to the growth of the U.S.

In current organic production systems, growers are not permitted to use conventional synthetic organic fungicides in their disease management program. Non-organic milk comes from farms that are allowed to use genetically modified cattle feed, along with routine antibiotic treatments and synthetic pesticides. Arguments have long raged as to the effects these hormones and chemicals have on the bioproducts. Growth hormones in cows, pesticides on produce and antibiotics in poultry are among the reasons many Americans are turning to organic foods.

Organically raised animals may not be given growth hormones to or antibiotics for any reason. Producers are required to feed livestock agricultural feed products that are 100 percent organic, but farmers may also provide allowed vitamin and mineral supplements.

The US Department of Agriculture finally put in place a national system for labeling organic food. The new federal rule guarantees you, the consumer, organic products that are grown without toxic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. Pesticides derived from natural sources (such as biological pesticides) may be used in producing organically grown food. Limitations in relation to which pesticides may or may not be used, present the organic grower with some unique and very demanding challenges. Food that is at least 70 percent organic will list the organic ingredients on the front of the package. More than 40 private organizations and state agencies (certifiers) currently certify organic food, but their standards for growing and labeling organic food may differ. Even with these labeling rules in place, consumers should be prepared for some confusion when shopping for organic foods. For one thing, organic products are not uniformly labeled because many farmers using organic methods do not pursue certification at all. In addition, the language contained in seals, labels, and logos approved by organic certifiers may differ.

While consumers struggle with the fact that often, the availability of organic materials is limited when large quantities are needed. More and more people have come to appreciate the added dimensions of value and quality available in the organic marketplace.

Francesca Black works in marketing at Organic Items http://www.organic-items.com and Pilates Shop http://www.pilates-shop.net leading portals for organic products and natural excercise.

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Fertilizing Your Lawn For A Beautiful Landscape

Writen by Amy Ballinger

A healthy lawn is a huge part of a beautiful landscape and a home's curb appeal. Whether you have a cool-season lawn or a warm-season lawn, new sod or established turf one thing is certain, with up to 1,000 grass plants per square foot of lawn fertilization is a must!

There are two ways to fertilize and achieve a green healthy lawn and beautiful landscape plants. You can do it yourself or you can hire a professional contractor to prescribe a maintenance program. Regardless of what you choose there are some things you should keep in mind when using fertilizers.

You should start by measuring the square footage of your lawn to determine the amount of fertilizer you will need. You should begin your fertilization program in the fall in order to promote healthy root growth. There are 3 basic ingredients in a well balanced fertilizer. Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are required to promote thick, dense grass that will resist disease and weeds. The label on the fertilizer bag will tell what percentages of these 3 basic ingredients are in the fertilizer. Example would be 20-10-5 which contains 20% nitrogen, 10% phosphate and 5% potassium, the remaining percentage is carriers such as sand. Your soil contains these nutrients naturally but during construction much of the nutrient rich soils are removed or disturbed and over the years the soil nutrients in landscaping around a home becomes depleted.

Experts recommend fertilizing your lawn two to four times a year depending on your climate, the type of grass you have and your landscape/lawn expectations.

• Early Spring
• Early Summer
• Late Summer
• Late Fall

For established lawns in Colorado, it is best to use the N value to determine what fertilizer to buy. For Blue grass/Ryegrass, a common Colorado grass, a recommended amount is ½ pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn in March and May and 1 pound in August and October. Read the instructions on the fertilizer bag for other types of grass.

The main thing to remember is, over-fertilization or misapplication does not help your lawn or landscape plants and can be very harmful to the surrounding environment. Careless application of fertilizers can cause pollution in streams, lakes, ponds and groundwater.

Other Tips to Remember:

- Nitrogen is what stimulates growth and greens up your lawn. The nitrogen content in your fertilizer will determine how often you will have to mow.

- Mow often with a sharp mower blade at a height of 2 to 3 inches leaving the grass clippings to mulch, providing extra nutrients equivalent to 1 to 2 fertilizer applications per year

- Consider Xeriscape or low maintenance landscape plants to decrease the need for fertilizers and watering

- Sweep over-sprayed fertilizers off sidewalks and driveways back into your yard and clean your spreader and equipment in your yard

- Lightly water your lawn and landscaping directly after fertilizing

- Avoid fertilizing on windy days or when heavy rains are expected, as this will wash away much of your fertilizer

http://www.BizziBid.com is a FREE resource for homeowners looking for quality home improvement contractors in the Denver Metro area. On BizziBid.com homeowners can read about local contractors, view pictures of their work and then either call them directly or submit a request to several contractors online requesting multiple estimates for their home improvement projects. Saving both time & money! If you need a great landscape contractor or lawn care expert this is the place to go!

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Replacing Tree Blossoms With Hanging Baskets

Writen by Don Doman

There is nothing much more beautiful than trees laden with blossoms slowly blowing in the wind. Once the blossoms fall, however the trees seem barren. You can solve this problem with hanging baskets of flowers.

Mother's Day is a great time of year for flowers. My wife usually receives one or two baskets of fuschias, which are hung outside widows to be enjoyed along with the views from our home. But, there are only so many windows and overhangs for placing these baskets. We discovered last year that hanging baskets in trees gives unexpected beauty to areas that might otherwise seem plain. We use the holiday and take advantage of basket sales.

Hanging baskets of flowers on tree limbs allows gentle rays of sun to penetrate the leaves, and also gives rain a chance to quench the flowers' thirst. Also, by placing the baskets within easy reach of watering cans or hoses, maintenance is kept at a minimum.

Last year we extended our deck around to the front of the house, which brought lower tree limbs within reach. Watering is a cinch and pinching off old blossoms is a snap.

With baskets in the trees, birds readily invade these miniature flower gardens (squirrels, too). Humming Birds flitting from basket to basket under a canopy of leaves is a wonderful site.

As guests visit, they often comment on the beauty as well as the placement of our hanging baskets. Our trees seem to blossom from spring thru summer with a little help from our "tree flowers."

Don Doman is a published author, video producer, and corporate trainer. He owns the business training site Ideas and Training (http://www.ideasandtraining.com), which he says is the home of the no-hassle "free preview" for business training videos. He also owns Simple Home Repair (http://www.simplehomerepair.com), which has a multitude of ideas for home decorating and landscaping.

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Pesticides

Writen by Stewart Hare

The terms "Pesticides" refers to many chemicals including herbicides, insecticides and fungicides and are designed to kill certain types of pest. These include insects, plants, fungi, moulds and rodents. Pesticides are used in modern farming on fruit and vegetables to increase yields and are thought to increase produce quality. However, pesticides are toxic chemicals designed to kill agricultural pests but can also cause problems with human health if exposed to in large amounts. Aldicarb used on potatoes, Carbendazim used on cereals, oilseed rape, fruit and vegetables, Chlormequat used on wheat, rye, oats, flowers, pears, almonds and tomatoes, Chlorothalonil used to kill fungal disease in crops, Chlorpyrifos used on apples, Pirimiphos-methyl used in cereal based infant food, Trifluralin used to kill weeds in fruit, vegetables and arable crops and Vinclozolin used peas, vines, oilseed rape and other fruit and vegetables to kill plant disease are all harmful to human health and the environment. I feel that because I eat a lot of these types of food that I have a great potential to be affected by the toxic chemicals used in these pesticides. Many organ systems such as the nervous and the brain can be subtly or permanently damaged in childhood. The endocrine system is more sensitive to pesticides and it is now known that many pesticides are "endocrine disrupters" which can affect the hormone balance within the body.

Pesticides are not only used in farming but we also use them within our homes and gardens. We use them on our lawns to kill weeds such as clover and dandelions and on our flowerbeds to kill insect pests such as greenfly. In our homes we use them in "fly killer sprays" to kill house flies and in insecticides to kill wood boring insects such as woodworm. Children's immune systems are more susceptible to these pesticides as they spend more time playing in the garden and in the home. Children are also susceptible to catching head lice which is treated with shampoo with pesticides within them.

To protect children from pesticides it is best to feed them organically or ecologically grown food especially those foods that are produced with the aid of high amounts of pesticides. Wash and peel all fruits and vegetables especially if waxed, wash in mild dish detergent or diluted vinegar. Cut out the stork end of fruit as this funnel shape of the fruit is where pesticides are concentrated most. Buy locally grown food as this has not been sprayed for shipment or export. Pesticide residues are also found in meat and diary foods so it is best to buy organic. Make sure that children's play areas are free from pesticides. If children have head lice than use non-chemical shampoo, shampooing with tea-tree oil can help with head lice. Avoid using pesticides to deal with pets fleas use herbal shampoos and vacuum pets bedding. Use all-natural insect repellent as an alternative to pesticide based repellent. Avoid using pressure treated wood within the home as all pressure treated wood contains pesticides. Encourage schools to use natural native plants within their playing fields and yards to reduce the use of pesticides. Native plants are hardier to pests than introduced plants species. Make sure children wash their hands after playing in school play areas which tend to use pesticides.

A lot of people are exposed to pesticides within their working environment. Farmers, pesticide applicators and workers in pesticides manufactures are the occupations that we tend to think of first but forestry employees, horticultural workers, textile workers, airline crews, military personnel, park workers, food service workers, golf course employees, veterinarians and employees of electrical utilities all come in contact with pesticides within their working environment. Exposure to pesticides within a working environment can cause cancer, brain tumours, stillbirths, birth defects, spontaneous abortions, and neurological and psychiatric effects. Workers should wear proper protective clothing when exposed to pesticides.

Urban lawns and gardens, public parks, golf courses, playing fields and road verges are sprayed with pesticides more than agricultural land. Indoors, pesticides are used to spray cockroaches, fleas, and other pests within homes, schools, hospitals, office buildings, supermarkets, stores, arenas and food storage buildings increasing exposure especially if the building is poorly ventilated.

To reduce the use of pesticides within cities, indoors and in outside spaces it is best to avoid using pesticides on lawns, there are many books on organic gardening, avoid outside spaces that have been recently sprayed, whilst playing golf keep balls and tees away from the mouth and wash hands and shoes after playing the game, if pets have a flea problem use herbal shampoos and collars plus avoidance methods such as flea combs, to combat insects within the home, keep it clean, avoid leaving food out, fill in cracks and gaps where they tend to like to live and research natural ways of insect control.

To conclude, to reduce the risk from pesticides eat organically and ecologically grown food, wash and peel vegetables and fruit, grow your own food, avoid fatty foods or trim fat from meat as persistent pesticides are stored in fatty tissue, cook vegetables rather than eat them raw all the time, cook meat and chicken thoroughly, garden in a non-chemical way without pesticides, avoid using chemical and pesticide based head lice shampoos, encourage schools to use non-pesticide methods within their environment, keep away from areas that have been freshly sprayed with pesticides and if your job involves exposure to pesticides make sure you are wearing proper protective clothing.

Stewart Hare C.H.Ed Dip NutTh

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Annuals For Shade

Writen by Michael Russell

Getting color in shaded areas can be a challenge. Annuals can provide that bit of color with a long bloom time. Most annuals do best in full sun, however there is a good selection of shade loving plants. Shade annuals are great for those spots that only get a tiny bit of sun during the day, or the dappled light under trees. Try one of these 10 plants next time you want a splash of color!

1. Begonias (Latin: Begonia semperflorens-cultorum). Begonias have waxy looking leaves, which can be either green or a reddish brown color. The flower color can be white, pink or red. Begonias will bloom from last spring through summer. The average height of a begonia is 6 to 12 inches. You can find begonias which thrive in sun, but make sure you plant the correct kind for your area.

2. Browallia (Latin: Browallia americana). Lesser known, browallias are great for hanging baskets or anywhere you want a spread of flowers. The colors are either blue or white and bloom profusely.

3. Coleus (Latin: Coleus hybridus). Coleus plants are not planted for their flowers, but for the wonderful foliage! The leaf color can range from red, purple, orange, yellow and green. Often variegated. They will grow to an average height of 24 inches and are very easy to grow. For best results, pinch back the tips of the flowers when they are young, as this will encourage fuller, bushy growth.

4. Impatiens (Latin: Impatiens wallerana). Impatiens are hugely popular. Since this annual comes in a wide variety of colors, it can fit in almost anywhere. Some of the colors available include white, purple, red, pink and orange. They are very easy to grow and range from eight inches to a taller thrity inch variety. The foliage is attractive with small green leaves. Impatiens are also called 'busy lizzies' due to their prolific flower production all season long.

5. Forget-Me-Not (Latin: Myosotis sylvatica). These flowers produce plenty of delicate blue flowers during the spring time. They grow six to twelve inches tall and spread out - so you can use these to fill in bare spots. Planted along with spring time bulbs such as tulips or daffodils, forget-me-nots can give your garden a classic look.

6. Lobelia (Latin: Lobelia). Looking for a blue flower? Lobelia will fit the bill! There are two types - trailing and edging. The trailing lobelias are perfect for containers and hanging baskets. The edgers are great for a border. Lobelias bloom throughout the summer months with lots of tiny flowers. They grow about 6 inches tall and may reseed themselves in milder climates.

7. Flowering tobacco (Latin: Nicotiana). Nicotiana is related to smoking tobacco and popular in old fashioned gardens. They come in a wide variety of sizes, from compact twelve inch to four feet tall. Some varieties are wonderfully fragrant, such as 'sylvestris' and 'Fragrant Cloud'. Typical flower colors are red or white. Use the shorter variety in the middle or front of the flower bed, or in containers. Use the tall variety to add height in the back of a border. The blooms with some varieties will close in the afternoon and reopen in the evening.

Don't be afraid of the shade. Try any of these annuals to add some color and fun to your shady garden areas!

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Gardening

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Lawn Watering Secrets

Writen by Terry Blackburn

Many people are not sure when to water their lawn. But don't wait until it turns brown. Inadequate watering puts your lawn under severe stress, which increases its susceptibility to insects and disease. Instead, develop a regimen for regular watering.

Water before the heat of the day, in the morning, even before sunrise. Watering early gives the water a chance to soak in rather than evaporating away. Plus, if there is some excess water that cannot be absorbed, it will have a chance to evaporate. Watering in the evening allows the water to soak in, but excess water will not evaporate and will foster fungal damage.

It is important to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Light watering results in roots that stay near the surface, because that is where the water is. The shallow ground dries out quickly and so the lawn will need more frequent watering. The deeper soil remains moist longer and so the lawn is less likely to suffer during a drought. Shallow roots are also considered to be a likely cause of thatch. The soil should be moist about 3 to 4 inches deep.

Avoid over-watering; more people over-water than under-water. You may be one of the people who feel that if a little water is good, then a lot of water is even better. That is not true. The objective is to provide enough water so that the lawn does not thirst. Too much water can carry away nutrients, foster fungal spores and disease and stress the lawn.

Most lawns require one to two inches of water a week. The best way to water, especially to conserve water or if the lawn is on a slope, is to water for 5 minutes on and 15 minutes off, until the desired amount of water is delivered. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reduces runoff.

To determine if you are delivering the proper amount of water, place a few cans around on the lawn to catch the water. Use something that has straight sides so you get an accurate measurement. Tall cans can deflect water, so it is best to use short cans like tuna or cat food cans. Measure the water in the cans and multiply by the number of times a week you water. The result is the number of inches of water being delivered every week. Each can should yield about one to two inches per week depending on temperature, shade and type of grass. Sunny and warm locations will need more water. Remember to include any water from rain in your calculations.

To recap, the best way to water is in the morning, two to four times a week, in short intervals but enough to thoroughly soak the ground. A sprinkler system is the best way to deliver the water because it consistently covers the entire lawn and it can be programmed to deliver the water when and as frequently as needed.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

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Five Quick Tips To Get Your Kids Gardening

Writen by Katina Mooneyham

Starting a garden is a rewarding task. There is a lot involved when you first invest time into gardening but in the end it brings many benefits including fresh and healthier food and it can even bring in the benefit of a little extra cash.

Getting your kids involved in the gardening process is even more rewarding. The kids learn responsibility, patience and the way nature works.

But how can you start the kids on their adventure into gardening? Here are a few ideas.

Give Kids the Choice

Giving kids a voice in design and choice in the garden matters. It will make them feel like the garden is a more personal experience to them.

Even the younger kids can have a choice with parental encouragement. Allow the younger kids to choose which vegetable to plant in their garden this year. Or allow them to help with the seed buying at the plant nursery or home and garden store.

The smallest decision can help a kid grow to love the gardening experience.

Give Kids a Garden of their Own

Give the kids a small garden area of their own even if it is just one small pot. Help them decide what would go best in that small plot.

Don't make the area too big or the kids may soon get too overwhelmed. The size of the garden depends on the kid. Bigger kids can handle more and thus should have a bigger area but no more than three or four feet wide.

Give Kids Garden Jobs

Assign garden jobs and chores just as you would any chore. Watering, putting away tools, and weeding are just a few chores that most kids could do on their own. Other jobs such as tilling and transplanting could be done by older kids.

Garden Science

Kids seem to have a fascination for science and how things work. Get the kids involved in the garden by showing them the science of plants.

It doesn't have to be elaborate science either. There are experiments you can do right in the garden or on the back porch. Plant different varieties of plants and see which grow better. Try different soils and see which plant grows faster and healthier. What about saving seeds for next year? There are so many different science activities that could be done in the garden.

Continue the Cycle

Start the kids early in life and they might just grow up to continue the tradition with their own kids. The cycle will continue and perhaps you can garden with your grandkids someday.

Katina Mooneyham is the contributing editor for Little Gardeners (http://www.gardenandhearth.com/LittleGardeners.htm)at Garden and Hearth.com. She has written various articles on gardening mostly about gardening with kids. She maintains a blog on gardening at http://littlegardeners.blogspot.com.

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Brick Outdoor Fireplace

Writen by Josh Riverside

Brick outdoor fireplaces are free standing, enclosed units with chimneys which restrict smoke and ash. These fireplaces add charm to the garden, patio, backyard, pool area, beach, or any outdoor location. The finest material for constructing outdoor fireplaces is brick. These are usually designed to burn wood, charcoal or pressed wood logs. Natural gas and propane models are also available, which look like wood burning fireplaces without smoke.

Brick outdoor fireplaces are built like indoor fireplaces. The major parts of a brick outdoor fireplace are the crown, overmantel, mantel shelf, header, filler panel, fire box, legs, plinth base, and hearth. Fireplace mantels come in a wide range of styles and sizes. Hearths are the bottom-most, fire-resist part, which are placed in front of the firebox. Hearths are available in squared, clipped, or arc shape. The fire box opening is surrounded by filler panels, which bridge the area between the mantel header, legs, and firebox. Besides the gas line, one can chose burn wood pellets or gas fireplace logs to help with fire starting. Using a gas line is a risky idea; one should care about proper ventilation of the fireplace so that the gas will not become entrapped in the event of a leak. Burning wood pellets is a good solution for preventing environment pollution because there is no emission of harmful gases.

Chimney pots are used to increase the height of fireplace chimneys. A front-screen is placed in front of the fireplace opening to restrict the air circulation within the firebox.

Brick outdoor fireplaces are very simple to install, and great to use the year round. Precaution should be taken not to place flammable substances such as gasoline, alcohol, charcoal and lighter fluid near the fireplace.

Outdoor Fireplaces provides detailed information on Outdoor Fireplaces, Outdoor Gas Fireplace, Outdoor Stone Fireplace, Outdoor Fireplace Plan and more. Outdoor Fireplaces is affiliated with Natural Waterfalls.

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Fencing Options Wood Or Vinyl

Writen by Natalie Aranda

Compulsive home owners are often excited by the possible transformation of their home and garden in their imagination, yet fret over the abundance of so many options even for the simple thing like fencing. From wood to vinyl made fences, choosing a style is clearly easier said than done.

When you are trying to decide on the type of fencing you'd like to purchase, you first assess your budget. Do you have enough money to splurge and go for authenticity? If you do, then wood fencing is a great choice. Most consumers tend to buy this type of fencing because it looks gorgeous. Wood has always been a favorite pick for people who love its elegance. Although wood is great to look at, it has to be maintained. Sanding and painting are often common chores that always require extra work. Hence, if you do not want to be spending your Saturday afternoons fixing up your fencing, you may stay far away from this type.

The average consumer seems to enjoy vinyl fencing much better. Although it is not authentic wood, it is a pretty close replica. It is often so similar that no one would realize that it was vinyl. Vinyl fences are not only more durable, but they do not get ruined in the bad weather. With wood, excessive amounts of rain and thunderstorms could easily ruin its color and chip the surface. On the other hand, vinyl fencing is long lasting and very low maintenance. Another Hurricane Katrina would have to rip through the backyard to tear this masterpiece apart.

Masterpieces may be different for each customer, but both wood and vinyl fences can be found in the oddest of places. Astonishingly, online shops offer affordable versions of both types of fencings. While it is great to shop online and even greater to have the purchase delivered straight to your door, you can easily find fencing in a local store. It is actually recommended that you try to find one in your area so that you can look at it in person. Often times online stores will misinform customers about the details of their fencings. Even though they state that they offer top quality vinyl and wood fences, they may be delivered in a completely different state. Therefore, you need to make sure you are getting the right type of fencing. Another benefit of shopping in person is that you can get instructional manuals, as well as discounts. Don't want to pay for shipping? A store employee will certainly help you bring the purchase to your car or deliver it for you.

Regardless of what you love the most, both options are wonderful. It all depends on the amount of work you want to put into it, as well as the money you want to spend. Vinyl fencing can be a dream come true, especially if you want it lasting until you have no use for it anymore. Just can't seem to shake the wood? You will most definitely be purchasing more than a few in your lifetime.

Natalie Aranda writes on home and gardening. The average consumer seems to enjoy vinyl fencing much better. Although it is not authentic wood, it is a pretty close replica. It is often so similar that no one would realize that it was vinyl. Vinyl fences are not only more durable, but they do not get ruined in the bad weather. With wood, excessive amounts of rain and thunderstorms could easily ruin its color and chip the surface. On the other hand, vinyl fencing is long lasting and very low maintenance.

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A Smoke Bush Unlike Any Other

Writen by Alan Summers

Smoke Bush 'Young Lady' Some people call them smoke trees; some people call them smoke bushes. They are dense and bushy; but they usually grow to about 15 feet tall. This week we are featuring a new smoke bush that is much more restrained in habit - a true bush, much easier to place in the landscape--Cotinus coggygria 'Young Lady.' Developed in the Netherlands by plantsman Henny Kolster, 'Young Lady' is unlike any other smoke bush that we have ever seen. It blooms as a young plant (hence the name) and blooms like crazy - the most prolific of all the smoke bushes. Nearly every shoot forms soft frothy pink flowers and the blooms repeat from late spring until frost. When planted in a pot, 'Young Lady' has been described as looking like a poodle in a pot!

'Young Lady' will reach four to six feet high and wide with loose and open, spreading branches. It can easily be maintained as a smaller shrub with pruning in very early spring. Its medium-sized leaves are a beautiful green color and turn superb blend of yellow, orange and red in the fall. 'Young Lady' will work well as an anchor in a perennial border, in a shrub border or in a container - especially attractive blooming all summer on a sunny deck.

Planting and Care

Prefers a location with full sun to light shade.

Prefers well-drained soil.

Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal.

Removal of spent blooms encourages even more re-bloom.

Prune in very early spring, if needed.

Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Click here to view Smoke Bush 'Young Lady' on the Carroll Gardens website.

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.

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How To Attract Butterfly Activity

Writen by Gordon Goh

The flittering of the butterfly through your garden is no accident if you planned your garden carefully. The adult butterfly flitters from flower to flower - sipping nectar from many flowers in your gardens, while other adult butterflies search for areas to lay their larvae. It is good to take note that the butterfly garden is going to differ from other areas of your garden. Your natural instincts will be to kill off pests, larvae and creatures in the garden, but in the butterfly garden your best results are noticed when you use organic gardening: Which means no chemicals at all.

In you want to include the use of butterflies in your landscape you will need to create a safety zone for your butterflies to feel safe. Butterflies frequent habitual zones, where they feel safe and where areas of the landscape meet with the tree lines. Creating your butterfly gardens near or around trees will help in attracting even more of these graceful creatures to your gardens.

A tip in attracting the Black Swallowtail or the Anise Swallowtail is this: Plant parsley, dill or fennel in your gardens, these plants attract this certain butterfly. If these herbs are not your favorites, you can attract other types of butterflies using other flowers. To attract the Fritillary butterfly for instance, plant Lupine flowers your garden. Or you may want to consider planting Snapdragons to attract butterflies that are native in your own area. Your early butterfly gardens are going to attract butterflies only in passing, but creating and growing the gardens that offer a safe haven for the butterfly will urge them to stay in your garden.

Butterflies are attracted to areas of your gardens where they can gather food for their offspring. The caterpillar will eat from the plants while the adult butterflies will sip on the nectar of the flowers. As your plants, shrubs, and flowers mature, the amount of butterflies to your gardens will also increase. The plants and flowers that you put in your garden this year will attract only a few, but in the years to come the natural instinct of the butterfly will lead them to your garden.

What is the adult butterfly searching for in your gardens? The butterfly searches for areas to take shelter from the high winds, the rains, and the summer storms. This is where the trees and shrubs in your gardens become important in protecting the butterfly and offering shelter. During the normal, warm sunny summer day the butterfly wants the wide-open areas of your lawn and garden.

Butterflies will seek soft soil that is sandy-like to find water. The sand-like soil that allows water to puddle up after a rainstorm is a butterflies delight. The developing stages of the caterpillar to the butterfly are observed often in the established butterfly garden.

By creating the atmosphere in the garden that offers the shelter, food, water and the fragrance the butterfly is searching for you will have Butterfly Garden success.

Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website Simply Flower Garden offering quality useful tips for flower garden lovers.

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Worm Composting Bin

Writen by Anthony Tripodi

One of the best ways to improve your garden is to stop throwing out your garbage. That's right, your used coffee grinds and banana peels can help your tomato and cucumber plants grow larger and stronger. When that same garbage is eaten and digested by a worm it becomes a powerful plant supplement known as worm castings. Starting a worm compost bin is a great way to create a steady supply of worm castings for your flower and vegetable gardens.

First thing you'll need is a bin. You can buy a commercially made worm bin but where's the fun in that. Those plastic or rubber storage bins make great worm bins. Drill a few holes in the bin so your worms get plenty of air. Just be sure to cover those holes with small pieces of window screen or something else that will keep the fruit flies out. And if you have any plumbing experience, why not add a hose spigot near the bottom of the bin to take advantage of worm tea. Worm tea is even better than compost tea for your plants. All you have to do is add a cup or two to a large watering can and fill the rest with water. Then water as normal.

Next you'll need some worm bedding. Most commonly used worm bedding for home bins is shredded newspapers. The bedding must stay moist but not water logged. Use a spray bottle to keep the bedding just right for your worms. When your order worms in the mail they will usually ship in a container filled with peat moss. Some people have stopped using peat moss as a political statement. You see peat is not a replenishable resource. Peat takes centuries to develop in swampy regions and it's just being used up too quickly. Other's argue that Peat is now created in a safe quick way and what's all the fuss about anyway. The two sides contradict each other so it's up to you to decide if you want to use it. Newspapers are readily available and you probably have a stack of them in your house already. So why not avoid the whole controversy and go with what's on hand.

And don't forget to put some dirt in the bin too. Worms don't have teeth, so they need some grit to help grind up their food. You can also use rock dust or powdered limestone instead of dirt if you like, but regular dirt from your yard will work fine.

And of course, let's not forget the worms. Digging up some worms from your yard will not work in a worm bin. Worms that come from the soil, like to live in the soil. For worm bins, you'll need red wigglers. They'll love the environment that you've created in your worm bin. How many should you buy, that depends on the size of your bin. Let's assume that you've created your worm bin for the worm castings and not to have tons of worms for your weekends fishing. That means that you're going to leave the worms in the bin until they've turned most of the bedding and food waste into vermicompost. The worm to garbage ratio is usually 2:1. That means that if you're going to put a half pound of garbage into the bin on a daily basis, then you should start with a pound of worms. Check your bin everyday to ensure that you get off to a good start. Keep the bedding moist and the bin should stay in a spot that's about 60 to 70 degrees. Leaving the bin outside in the summer sun is a good way to cook all of your worms. And remember if the worm bin starts to smell, then you probably need more bedding.

Starting a worm bin is a fun project for everyone in the family. Get your kids involved, they'll love watching those little worms wiggle around your bin. And if you're lucky, you may see one of the kids chase your mother in law around the house with a handful of worms. Like I said, worm bins are good times for the whole family and great for your garden too.

Anthony Tripodi is the webmaster of WatchItRot.com. For more information about starting a Worm Composting Bin, visit http://www.watchitrot.com

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All About Hybrid Tea Roses

Writen by Ken Austin

Hybrid tea roses and the original tea rose are the world's favourite roses and are available in many gorgeous colors.

1. Hybrid tea roses are among the most beautiful flowers in the world. They are the florist's rose.
   

2. The blossoms are fantastic and each flower can have as many as 60 or more petals. You can not find a more beautiful cut flower.
   

3. The fragrance also makes the hybrid tea rose an excellent choice to give as a bouquet or to grow in your garden.
   

4. Hybrid tea roses are different from other roses because they produce their flowers usually one bloom to a long stem rather than in clusters. Most hybrid tea roses produce flowers during the entire growing season and the plants grow 3 to 6 feet tall.
   

5. Caring for hybrid tea roses is no more difficult than other roses although you do need to give them special care in colder climates. They are no more or no less pest or disease resistant than other kinds of roses.
   

6. ˜La Franceâ" was the first hybrid tea rose grown in 1867 by a French nurseryman, Jean-Baptiste Guillot. He cross-bred two old garden roses and developed an entirely new kind of rose.
   

7. Hybrid tea roses should be planted 18 to 36 inches apart or they can be planted with other flowers in large pots.
   

8. There are hundreds of choices when looking for hybrid tea roses. Choices can be made by color, names or fragrance. There are hybrid tea roses named after famous people including presidents and their wives.
   

9. The very first tea rose was a cross between a China rose and Rosa gigantea. These plants are more bushy than the hybrid tea rose but the well-shaped flower buds remind us of today's modern hybrid tea roses. Tea roses come in shades of white, pink and yellow.

Start thinking about adding a tea rose or hybrid tea rose to your garden this year.

Ken Austin
Roses and Rose Gardening
Learn to Grow Perennials

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How To Get Rid Of A Groundhog

Writen by Emma Drosy

Groundhog is also known as woodchuck and is a small rodent that burrows under the ground. The animal hibernates during winter and dig dens or burrows for hiding. Groundhogs can spoil whole of our garden. If these animals are present around our garden, we must know how to get rid of groundhogs.

If you have seen a groundhog in your garden, you would definitely want to know how to get rid of these animals and for controlling this you should frighten the groundhogs away from your garden with the help of stick or sound. You could also use some of the repellants available in the market. These repellent smell or taste sometimes is sufficient enough to drive away the groundhogs from your garden. You can also locate the dens or any other hiding places of these groundhogs and thus allowing some sound or smoke in the den, you could drive groundhog away from your ground. To get rid of groundhog, you can also use fencing to the ground so these rodents cannot enter the grounds.

The other ways to get rid of groundhogs is to use trap just outside of their burrows. Carefully place a trap just outside the burrow of the groundhog and you can successfully trap these groundhogs.

Groundhogs are timid and they frighten with any object in motion. So, you can put any moving object in your garden so that groundhogs do not attack to your garden. Pinwheels are best moving objects and are able to keep away groundhogs. You can take other additional preventive methods also such as avoiding the shelter and hideouts for groundhogs. If you deprive the groundhogs with a tall grass and other bushes in your garden, the groundhogs will probably look for other gardens in that area.

Another idea to get rid of groundhog is to take the help of professionals to trap these animals especially if you are in urban area. In urban area you will get a number of professionals having experience in trapping such animals before and with the help of these professionals, you can easily get rid of groundhog.

Get Rid of Groundhogs for Good!! !

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Viburnum Dilatatum Cardinal Candy

Writen by Alan Summers

Cold hardy, disease resistant and beautiful - what more could you ask for?

In the winter of 1990, the temperature at Rodney Henneke's farm in Indiana dipped to 30 degrees below zero. Henneke, a plant breeder, had grown several Virburnum dilatatum from seed. The extremely cold temperatures killed all of the plants except for one - 'Cardinal Candy.' From the moment he discovered this, Henneke knew he had a very special plant.

'Cardinal Candy' will bring beauty and interest to your garden for all four seasons year after year. From late spring into summer, it will be smothered in shiny dark green leaves and creamy white flowers. The small flowers are clustered in 5 inch flat heads and are absolutely outstanding. In mid-late summer, bright red berries replace the flowers - these are the true highlight of 'Cardinal Candy.' The abundant, glossy red fruits are produced without a pollinator and will light up your garden throughout autumn, often right into mid winter. They are so shiny, that you'll think they've been dipped in lacquer. The autumn foliage is russet red - enhancing the berry display in October and November.

'Cardinal Candy' will mature into a well-branched, rounded shrub reaching 6 feet high and wide. It will adapt to most soil types and does best in full sun to part shade. 'Cardinal Candy' will fit nicely in most any landscape, especially as a background plant in the perennial garden, in a border or as a specimen plant. It is extremely durable and virtually maintenance free. We often use Viburnum 'Cardinal Candy' combined Viburnums 'Blue Muffin' and 'Michael Dodge' where moderate-sized deciduous screening is called for. The combination of red, blue and yellow berries is quite striking indeed. We guarantee that you will love 'Cardinal Candy!'

Planting and Care

Extremely cold hardy - Zones 4-7.

Choose a spot in full sun to part shade.

Will adapt to almost all soil types, but well-drained is best.

Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal in late fall and early spring.

Click here to view 'Cardinal Candy' on the Carroll Gardens website.

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions. Click here to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more.

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Daylily Quotred Hot Returnsquot

Writen by Alan Summers

Finally -- A Red, Reblooming Daylily!

Everyone loves a daylily. As one of the best performers in the perennial garden, daylilies are known for being hardy, carefree and profuse bloomers. Daylilies are available in a wide range of colors that can brighten any landscape. New daylilies are always being introduced, but many of the new and old daylilies bloom only once a season. There are a handful of new daylilies that are repeat bloomers, allowing you to enjoy their beauty from late spring until well into autumn. 'Red Hot Returns,' the first full size repeat-blooming red daylily that is hardy in the north, was introduced in 2005. This is one of the newest creations of master breeder Dr. Darrel Apps, who is also know for other popular repeat-blooming daylilies including 'Rosy Returns,' 'Happy Returns' and 'Big Time Happy.'

Red Hot Returns -- New and Hard to Find

Red Hot Returns has cherry red blooms with a lemon throat and grass green tonsils. Blooms are large, reaching up to 5 inches across and will repeat in cycles from late spring until the first hard frost. The foliage is deep green with a moderate rate of clump development. Red Hot Returns will reach 24 inches tall, perfect for mid-border planting or for massing in front of shrubbery.

Planting and Care

'Red Hot Returns' is easy to grow and care for - returning year after year to brighten your garden.

For best results plant at any time from early spring to late fall.

Performs best in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade.

Plant 24 inches apart in any normally fertile soil.

Divide every three to four years for the best blooms.

Fertilize in early spring and late fall with Flower-Tone and Kelp Meal.

Hardy in zones 4-9.

Click here to view 'Red Hot Returns' on the Carroll Gardens website.

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Easy Lawn Care Use Clover Ditch The Pesticide

Writen by James Wilson

Low-Maintenance Lawn Care

Having a nice looking lawn in front of your house is important. The lawn is going to make or break the look of your house - it's really as simple as that. If your lawn is all brown and patchy, then your home is simply not going to shine. With a little care though, a lawn can look magnificent therefore making your home magnificent as well. If you have a grass lawn all you will have to do is get some fertilizer every now and then, and some insecticide and mow regularly. That doesn't sound like too much or does it?

To keep your lawn looking lush and fabulous you are going to have to take care of it. Lawn care and lawn maintenance does not have to be hard but it does need to be consistent. The very first thing that you need to do when you move into a new home or when you are having one built is to decide if you actually need a lawn. There are other alternatives such as clover.

Planting clover instead of grass will make your lawn care and lawn maintenance much easier. You will not have to worry about fertilizer as much and you will not have to mow it even a fraction of the amount you would if you planted normal grass. And clover is a natural insecticide. This is nice because many people prefer not to lay down insecticide because much of these chemicals are not good for the environment. And let's face it, fertilizer is a giant pain in the butt, not to mention that it can be pretty expensive.

Yes, clover seems to solve most of the problems that people have with their lawns. Easy lawn care is the key and with clover you have practically zero lawn maintenance to worry about. Easy lawn care is especially welcome in places where it gets super hot in the summer. No one wants to be dragging around a mower every few days in 100-degree weather. Cumbersome lawn care and lawn maintenance is virtually eliminated when you choose clover instead of grass.

If you still want a plain grass lawn you can add some clover seed to the grass seed. This will help to act as a natural insecticide and fertilizer. This kind of addition is easy, cheap and it will save you tons of money and work when it comes to lawn care and lawn maintenance.

I found the following quite informative report: http://www.special-reports-site.com/lawncare

James Wilson is author of "How to Write Search Engine Friendly Articles and Press Releases" and is founder and editor of Vegas Buzz News ( http://www.vegasbuzzz.com )

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Choosing The Perfect Patio Furniture For Your Outdoor Space

Writen by J.C. Taylor

Patio furniture is available in many different styles, sizes, shapes, and materials for outdoor living. When choosing a patio set it is important to first ask many questions to determine which patio furniture is best for you.

The first question to ask is what will I be using the patio furniture for? Many homeowners use patio furniture to entertain friends and family while others choose to simple enjoy the outdoors alone. This brings the question of size into the decision making process. Patio furniture comes in a variety of sizes which can accommodate as many as 20 or more guests or as little as a small bistro patio set for two guest.

Another question to ask is what is my budget for buying patio furniture? Price is another concern for homeowners when deciding on a patio furniture set. Naturally, the larger the patio furniture set, the more expensive the purchase price. The material your furniture is made of can play a part in the price as well, which leads to our next question.

What material should my patio furniture be made of? Patio furniture comes in a variety of materials with each material having its own unique benefits and disadvantages. Popular materials include: Teak, wicker, and wrought iron. Teak looks great and is very weather resistant, but it can be expensive. Wicker patio furniture provides a very stylish look and is lightweight for easy moving, but it can be delicate if not taken care of properly. Wrought iron brings a very elegant look to your outdoor area, but it can rust and tarnish in moist environments.

Will I be required to store my patio furniture? If you live in an area that has several months of winter weather, you should think about getting patio furniture that can be stored away easily or covered so that it does not feel the effects of winter. Plastic and wicker are both lightweight materials that you can easily carry off your patio to your garage for the winter months. If you live in an area where winters are mild and your furniture is less likely to feel the effects of harsh weather, heavier furniture such as wrought iron and teak are not concerns.

If you have enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about finding the perfect patio furniture for your outdoor living area including information about teak patio furniture, wicker patio furniture, wrought iron patio furniture, and more, visit http://www.patio-furniture-depot.com to get all the facts and info today.

Jungle Hammocks

Writen by Kevin Stith

Deep within the jungle, the weather can prove to be extremely different from what you are probably used to. The conditions there can be so uncomfortable that people who are not used to them might want to get out of at the soonest time possible.

One of the innovations for people who traverse the jungle is the jungle hammock. Just at the mere sound of it, the jungle hammocks connote a relaxation in the midst of the dense jungle. This kind of hammock has been especially designed so as to provide shelter from the sudden downpours that seem to haunt the jungle every now and then.

Also, the jungle hammock provides elevation so that you can have a good night's rest without having to worry about getting damp or have to worry about the crawling insects that infest the grounds. A plus point for jungle hammocks it that they has been crafted to be lightweight yet sturdy. They are light enough to pack up and carry along with you when moving through the rainforest.

One specially designed hammock offers a fabric that is completely waterproof and perfect for camping during the winter season. Another jungle hammock that has been created has a mosquito net built into it so as to keep away mosquitoes, insects, and the like. Some of these jungle hammocks already have soft cushions inside it so as to provide a deep slumber out in the middle of the jungle.

If you think that trekking and traversing inside the jungle would be something that would be very uncomfortable, jungle hammocks brings with them the relaxing feel and comfort of your own home right in the middle of the forest.

Hammocks provides detailed information on Hammocks, Camping Hammocks, Jungle Hammocks, Portable Hammocks and more. Hammocks is affiliated with Indoor Hammock Chairs.

Teakwood Garden Furniture Can Last A Lifetime

Writen by Jennifer Akre

Premium teak garden furniture is the best choice for your outside living space for many reasons. Teak has a natural beauty that cannot be compromised by outdoor elements. It is the perfect choice for garden furniture because of its water resistant qualities. Even if you do not care regularly for your teakwood it can still last up to 75 years and this cannot be said about most outdoor furnishings today. Buying beautiful teakwood garden furniture is an investment that can honestly be passed down to your children as heirlooms.

Indonesian teak garden furniture is a great place to start for your outdoor improvement project. Dining tables with matching chairs are very useful additions to your patio. Once you decide on the size of your table you can choose chairs with or without brass hardware. Brass is used in the construction of folding teak chairs because it will never rust. This makes the chairs easier to recline, fold and unfold, and can also help create a more intricate design. Teakwood chairs can also be made without hardware and they are just as durable. Teak patio furniture is the best investment for your outdoor garden and living space.

Teakwood is very simple to care for because the high oil content of the wood makes it very resistant to the elements and many owners leave their furniture outdoors all year. Teak oil can be used once a month to retain its luster and you can find it at your local home improvement center at minimal cost. It can be applied with a soft cloth and rubbed into the wood to produce a natural shine. You should oil your teakwood if it is outside on a regular basis to keep the nice light brown color. But, if you choose not perform a monthly application to your teakwood it will still retain is strong structure. Teakwood that is not maintained with teak oil will turn a beautiful silvery gray giving it a more rustic appeal. Furniture that is kept indoors and is oiled a few times a year will maintain a light brown color.

The tight grain and high oil content of teakwood make it resistant to the forces of Nature that can destroy other outdoor furniture. It can withstand wind, rain, and sunlight without warping, shrinking or rotting. Lawn furniture can make a dramatic improvement to your outdoor space when choosing furniture made from teak wood. You may start off with a simple teak garden bench and then add to your outdoor collection when both you and your budget are ready. But whatever you choose for your teak garden furniture it will be an investment that will last you a lifetime.

Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous teak bench and teak patio furniture websites, makes it easy to find fabulous Teak Outdoor Furniture and Outdoor Teak Furniture collections. A symbol of luxury and affluence. These are a few reasons teak patio furniture is the ideal choice for outdoor furniture and remains a sound investment. You deserve it - Endulge Yourself: MoreThanTeak.com.

Gardening Planting Tomatoes

Writen by Michael Russell

In this article we're going to discuss the planting of tomatoes. This isn't something to try if you're new to gardening. Tomatoes need special care.

To begin with, tomatoes need a minimum of six to eight hours of sunlight each day to grow well, and full sunlight is recommended especially if you live in the more northern cooler climates.

The soil should be well drained with a pH of around 6.0 to 6.8 in cooler climates. Plant your tomatoes in the spring well after the last frost and frost danger is past. Of course there is always going to be that freaky April day where temperatures dip below 32 but these days will be very rare. In hot climates, try to plant your tomatoes when temperatures begin to drop in the early fall.

The tools and materials you're going to need for planting your tomatoes are compost, a trowel, garden fork or tiller, plant supports such as cages and stakes, and plant ties.

First thing you'll need to do is prepare the plants. In order to harden transplants to the elements, give them at least a week to ten days of transition time between indoor and outdoor growing conditions. Start off by placing the plants in dappled shade and make sure they're protected from strong winds. Make sure you bring them in the house at night. As time goes by, gradually give them more exposure to the sun and wind. Eventually you'll be able to leave them out overnight. If it looks like there is going to be a frost, bring them back inside.

Next thing you have to do is prepare the soil. Mix the soil with composted manure until it's loose for at least six to eight inches into the ground. Mix the soil with a rototiller or garden fork. Test the pH of the soil. If the test shows that the pH needs to be adjusted, add limestone or sulfur as is needed.

After the soil is prepared, you can transplant. Bury the tomato stems up to the plant's second set of leaves, digging a ten to eighteen inch deep hole, if you need to. Fill up the hole with amended soil. Eventually, roots will form along the buried stem. Wrap a newspaper collar around the stems to protect the plants from cutworms.

Finally, you need to install support. You'll have a number of options for staking tomatoes. There is however, one method that is most common. In this method you'll position wire cages over the plants. Use five feet tall galvanized wire mesh and make cages twelve to thirty inches in diameter. You're going to need about three feet of mesh for every foot of diameter. Fasten the cages to short stakes driven into the ground so that they don't fall over.

Some tips about growing your tomatoes. For one thing, they'll usually stop growing at a certain height but some varieties grow taller than others. Dwarf varieties grow only 2 to 3 feet tall and will give you cherry-tomato-sized fruits. Keep your tomatoes well watered through the growing season so you don't end up with disfigured fruits. Finally, fertilize very carefully. Too much nitrogen will give you more foliage than fruit.

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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Gardening
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Build A Rain Garden

Writen by Jodi Reichenberger

There's a new garden in town. It is (mostly) easy to install, looks good year-round, requires almost no maintenance and has a terrifically upbeat impact on the environment. No wonder rain gardens are such a great new gardening trend!

Storm water runoff can be a big problem in summer during heavy thunderstorms. As the water rushes across roofs and driveways, it picks up oil and other pollutants. Municipal storm water treatment plants often can't handle the deluge of water, and in many locations the untreated water ends up in natural waterways. The EPA estimates as much as 70 percent of the pollution in our streams, rivers, and lakes is carried there by storm water! By taking responsibility for the rainwater that falls on your own roof and driveway, you'll be helping to protect our rivers, streams and lakes from stormwater pollution.

To reduce the excess water runoff, many towns are encouraging businesses and homeowners to install rain gardens in their yards. Rain gardens are specially constructed gardens located in low areas of a yard where storm water can collect. The idea is to have the water naturally funnel to this garden. The rain garden collects water runoff and stores and filters it until it can be slowly absorbed by the soil. Rather than rushing off into a storm sewer or a local waterway, the rainwater can collect in a garden where it will be naturally filtered by plants and soil.

Installing a rain garden is easy.

You simply dig a shallow depression in your yard and plant it with native grasses and wildflowers; things that are easy to grow and maintain in your area.

What makes a garden a rain garden?
First, the garden will be designed with a low spot in the middle to collect and absorb rain water and snow melt. This depression can range from a few inches in a small garden, to an excavated trough that's several feet deep. Second, rain gardens are usually located where they'll catch the runoff from impermeable surfaces like sidewalks and driveways, or from gutters and roof valleys. Third, rain gardens are usually planted with native wildflowers and grasses that will thrive in tough growing conditions. Finally, rain gardens are designed to channel heavy rains to another rain garden or to another part of the garden.

Your rain garden should be located at least 10 feet from the house. The garden's size and location depends on the yard. The ideal situation would be to locate the garden in a natural depression. You also can funnel water from downspouts on gutters into the garden. The soil should be well drained so the water doesn't sit in the garden for more than two days. A special "rain garden" soil mix of 50 to 60 percent sand, 20 to 30 percent topsoil, and 20 to 30 percent compost is recommended. You can dig this mixture into the soil to depth of 2 feet before planting.

Once you've identified the new garden's location, remove the sod and dig a shallow depression approximately 6-inches deep. Slope the sides gradually from the outside edge to the deepest area. Use the soil that you remove to build up a slightly raised area on the lowest side of the garden. This berm will help contain the stormwater and allow it to percolate slowly through the rain garden.

If your rain garden is no more than about 6-inches deep, stormwater will usually be absorbed within a one- to seven-day period. Because mosquitoes require seven to 10 days to lay and hatch their eggs, this will help you avoid mosquito problems.

Your downspout or sump pump outlet should be directed toward your rain garden depression. This can be accomplished by a natural slope, by digging a shallow swale, or by piping the runoff directly to the garden through a buried 4" diameter plastic drain tile.

Plant Selection... The final touch.

The most difficult part of building a rain garden (if it can even be called that) can be plant selection. Plants need to be tough enough to withstand periodic flooding, yet attractive enough to look good in the garden. Deep-rooted, low-care native plants, such as asters, and tough non-natives, such as daylilies, are best. If properly designed, the rain garden can consist of a blend of attractive shrubs, perennials, trees, and ground covers. Planting strips of grass around the garden and using mulch also can help filter the water.

New plants should be watered every other day for the first two weeks or so. Once they are well established, your garden should thrive without additional watering. Fertilizers will not be necessary, and only minimal weeding will be needed after the first summer of growth.

Our goal at Garden Simply is to make your organic garden work sustainable; be more productive, and ultimately more fun! Jodi Reichenberger provides education about enhancing you and your family's health through good eating, organic gardening techniques, organic gardening tips, and an all around sustainable lifestyle; providing helpful organic pest control tips (Integrated Pest Managment or IPM)to help you make the most of your effort, and the lastest community gardening and sustainable gardening news out there. Join us! Sustainability is a community effort!

The Herbaceous Or Perennial Border Layout And Soil Preparation

Writen by James Kilkelly

The first thing I would suggest when creating a perennial border is to become nosey. When out driving or walking, have a look into others gardens, you may see something you like or an idea you can borrow. Another good way to learn new planting ideas is to visit garden open days or gardening exhibitions. When you have an idea of what perennial plants types you like, you can then select a point in your garden to position a border. Try to determine how much sun or shade your chosen location gets. Do not try to make sun-loving plant like the Michaelmas daisy grow in an area that gets a lot of shade.

Border Shape

Decide the shape of your border. Do not make your perennial border too narrow, a wide border will be easier to maintain and look far more awash with lush planting. Go gentle on the curves, we all like a curving border but avoid a very fussy serpentine shape. Try to make the border lengthy, you will be able to accommodate many different-sized and blooming plants. Use a long length of hosepipe or heavy rope to mark out the shape of your border, this allows you to adjust until you achieve a comfortable shape. When your shape is decided, you can mark the ground with marker spray or simply by scratching with a stick. Follow this by spraying off any existing grass and weeds (if present) with a translocated herbicide such as "Roundup".

Preparing Your Soil

Now its time for soil preparation before planting. Most new garden beds and borders benefit from additional organic material being added to it and dug in. This is especially true of the perennial border. So, dig over the ground thoroughly and remove all traces of perennial weeds and large stones, leave the small stones as they aid drainage and help to regulate the soils temperature. Dig or till in lots of organic matter to improve the soil for your perennials at this stage as well. If you have a good back and you feel up to it, this organic matter is most effective if dug in to a depth of 12 inches. Choose from the following source of organic matter… garden compost, leaf mould, well rotted farmyard manure, spent mushroom compost, garden centre soil enricher. An ideal situation would be to have half your soil made up of organic matter, a great reserve of plant food.

I would advise adding grit at this stage as well if your soil is very heavy, sticky or poorly drained. Digging in a good quantity of sand grit or gravel will open up your soil and allow channels for drainage.

The final part of the soil preparation is to fork around 10-20 grammes of 7-6-17 per metre squared into the soil. If 7-6-17 is not available, then any general-purpose fertiliser applied at the rates stated on its pack will do. After all this is done, you must allow the soil to and its amendments to settle for around a week or two before planting. This gives you ample opportunity to select and source the plants you would like to inhabit your newly created border.

James Kilkelly is a freelance horticulturalist and garden writer for four Irish regional newspapers. His forum, http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/ offers you free access to an incredible wealth of horticultural information specific to Ireland. He also regularly posts his expert advice to a gardening community at http://www.gardenstew.com/

Deck Swing Buying And Assembling Tips

Writen by John Morris

Putting a swing on your porch or deck will definitely add elegance to it. Not only that, but family and friends will be able to enjoy your porch more when you install a swing, because after all, a porch or deck with a swing in it is a lot more interesting than a bare one. Having a swing, your porch or deck will instantly become a favorite gathering place.

If you think installing a swing in your porch or deck is difficult, think again. Adding a swing to your porch or deck can be a breeze if you follow the step by step instructions below.

1. The right swing must be placed properly in the place.

The first thing you should do before buying a swing set is to measure the height of your porch or the a place in the garden for the chains used for support and the width to ensure crash and bump free swinging.

2. Purchase a hanging kit along with the swing.

Ensure that it has all the necessary galvanized items and chain for heavy-duty purposes that you will need for the particular swing that you bought. Read the directions well when you are buying your hanging kit. Ensure you have all the necessary tools, and if not, prepare a list of items you will need and make a trip to the hardware store.

3. Look for an overhead beam with an 8-foot clearance under it in your porch or deck.

This is where you will install the two hooks for the swing that should be given space the width of the swing to support the chains. To prevent the splitting of the wood upon screwing in the big hooks that are useful in holding the swing safely, drill pilot holes first.

4. Choose a swing set that requires minimal assembly.

First take all the parts out of the box. Find the package of nuts and bolts then set it aside. Look for the instructions booklet and read it carefully. To avoid confusion, lay out all of the parts on the ground the way they will eventually connect in the finished assembly. If there are any ground coverings or mats lay them also on the ground. Get some help holding the pieces as you assemble them or use a small bucket or tupperware container to ensure none of the smaller pieces get lost.

Assembling Your Swing:

1. Look for the long poles that will form the swing's frame. Connect two of the three poles at the end to form an acute angle with the nuts and bolts provided. Connect the second set of two uprights the same way. Also connect any braces included onto the uprights. The braces should attach about halfway along the uprights.

2. There are basically two types of swings, those with holes in the arms and those that come with mounted chains that are attached to the swing's lower frame. The former is easy to hang but the latter can be more comfortable to sit on.

3. Preserve your swing before hanging by using a sanding sealer under a varnish with polyurethane. Annually check for splinters and reseal if needed.

4. Look for the crosspiece which is usually the largest piece of metal or a long wooden beam. Connect this to the apex of each set of uprights making sure that any holes or hooks face the right way so that it will be possible to attach the swing correctly.

5. When everything is in its place tighten the bolts and stand the swing set on its feet. Get the chains or rope for use to hanging the swing. Using a stepladder, attach the chains to the crosspiece. Hooks should be provided with the swing set. The swing seat should be attached to the hanging chain. Measure each side so the swing hangs evenly.

6. You will need four chains to hang the swing from its hooks. The first two chains will descend from each hook, one to the front of the swing and one to the back. The chains must at least be seven feet long because it will hang from a beam that is 8 feet above. The swing must be not more than 17 inches from the ground so it is easy for individuals to get on and off.

7. For safety, all hardware must be screwed securely into the wood and chain connectors must be used. Before hanging the swing, double check that all hardware is installed.

8. Use a frame if you have any doubt that your porch can support your swing. Do not hang swings from masonry or bricks.

9. It is better if you use bolts instead of screws.

10. It is highly suggested that you drill through the support beam to put a long eye bolt through it, then secure it with a large flat washer and locking bolt.

11.Ask a friend for help or use an ironing board for support when you lift the swing and its harness near the beam. After hooking the swing in place, adjust the chains evenly then get on the swing to test it.

Now you are ready to show off your new swing to your friends and family!

For more great deck swing related articles and resources check out http://www.yardndeck.com

Ceiling Patio Heaters

Writen by Hans Dekker

It is unavoidable, Fall is coming and we like to enjoy the outdoors as long as possible.

As Fall is drawing near. Outsite living enthousiasts like us like to extent their season.

And when winter is over and the first signs of spring are there we want to enjoy our patio again

Patio Heaters are a solution, and the type we discuss here are actually my favorite.

Ceiling patio heaters make a good alternative to portable patio heaters. Because they are permanently installed, none of the storage or maintenance problems associated with portable heaters are encountered. Simply turn the switch and the ceiling heater provides enough heat to keep you and your guests comfortable.

Ceiling heaters can be powered by either electricity or gas. If you use natural gas for heating your house, it's a natural extension to install natural gas ceiling heaters on your patio. However, if you don't have a natural gas feed, you can still install electric or propane ceiling heaters.

Many models of ceiling heaters for your patio operate with radiant heat. This efficient heating method heats objects and people without heating the air in between. This increases their deficiency and also means that the heaters are effective even on windy days.

There are many different styles of ceiling heaters for your patio. Some models hang from the ceiling and distribute the heat with a reflecting dome similar to the ones found in portable patio heaters. This type of ceiling heater usually uses propane or natural gas as the fuel source.

Electric ceiling heaters can be mounted directly on the ceiling for the most efficient use of space. They are safe to use indoors, so if you wish to enclose a portion of your patio for the winter season it can be heated with an electric heater.

Despite their ability to heat fairly large spaces, electric ceiling heaters are economical to operate. They are very efficient and are a good alternative when gas cannot be used for heating your patio. Their heat output can be adjusted with a heat regulator.

Another advantage of electric heaters is that they are silent and require no venting. Gas heaters usually hiss when they operate and they usually require a venting system to avoid the buildup of dangerous byproducts. If you have plenty of ventilation, then a venting system is not necessary, but if you use a gas heater in an enclosed or semi-enclosed area you should provide adequate venting.

You are free to publish the above article in your ezine or website, provided credit in the form of an (HTML clickable) hyperlink is given to the author.

Hans is the writer for http://www.patio-furniture-ideas.com/ and http://www.gardening-guides.com

Planting Bulbs Part 3 Watering Removing Foliage

Writen by Bill Prudehome

With fall on the way, it is time to consider planting bulb flowers that we want for spring blooming. Bulbs are one of the best flower investments for the cost, properly cared for they will provide spring color in your garden for years.

Watering Bulbs

It is important that after planting any spring flowering bulb that the beds be watered. Watering aids in settling the soil and provides the moisture necessary to commence root growth. Bulbs that are planted in the fall must commence to root before the cold weather sets in. Over watering at this time or any time can create bulb rot – avoid over watering. Drip irrigation works very well with all bulb plantings.

If your soil is dry, you should commence watering spring and summer plants as soon as the first flower buds appear on the plant. Do not just water the surface! The larger plant bulbs were planted 6 to 8 inches deep and water needs to permeate the soil to below that depth in order to reach the new root growth.

Continuous watering is needed throughout the growth of the plant from bud to bloom and early foliage, the plant needs approximately 1 inch of water per week (rainfall or supplemental watering). Try to keep water away from the blooms. If you are providing supplemental watering, use a drip irrigation or a soaker hose aiming the water at the base of the plant.

Shallow planted bulbs such as alliums will quickly rot if over-watered in the summer heat.

Removing Foliage

Spring flowers create a beautiful garden, with a wide variety of colors, shapes, and heights that is, until the blooms die, and you are left with a very unappealing quantity of green foliage. Although this could be unappealing, the foliage should not be cut or mowed until it turns a shade of yellow and dies naturally.

Little aesthetic problems are caused with the smaller bulbs such as snowdrops and squill as the foliage on these plants dies quite rapidly. Tulips and daffodils have much larger bulbs and much hardier and larger stocks of foliage. These plants may take several weeks to die naturally. Cutting the foliage prematurely can cause damage to the bulb and prevent it from growing next year. After flowering, the plant needs the green leaves to manufacture food (photosynthesis) that is then stored in the bulb for next year's growth. Prematurely cutting the foliage means that the plant can no longer manufacture nutrients.

If the foliage is a visual concern, you can divert attention from the foliage by planting bulbs in between colorful annual plants.

For additional information on Planting Bulbs
Part 1 – Soil Preparation, Fertilizing;
Part 2 – Planting Location, Planting Depth;
Part 4 – Staking, Mulching, Storing;

For additional information on gardening and landscaping or other home renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Rosemary

Writen by Briscoe White

Although I have not given up my love affair with Sweet Basil, my attentions have recently turned to anther – rosemary. Rosmarinus officinalis, a member of the mint family, is a wonderful culinary herb with an impressive background. This herb has had an important role in both legend and religion. Ancient Greeks used rosemary to adorn virgins before sacrificing them. The Romans believed it helped memory, and adorned the herb while studying. The herb supposedly turned from white to blue when Mary hung her cloak on it while fleeing Herod's soldiers and rosemary was always included in monastery gardens of Europe. Rosemary is referred to in literature as a symbol of remembrance and love and often used in wedding ceremonies. It is said that if there is rosemary in the garden, there will be a strong woman in the house! Used both as a culinary and medicinal herb, rosemary was believed to cure a host of maladies: depression, headaches, stomach ailments and was said to repel the Black Plague.

The name Rosemary is based on Latin words meaning "dew of the sea" and the plant is native to the rocky Mediterranean region. It has small light-blue flowers and narrow, pine-needle-like evergreen leaves that have a strong sweet piney scent and add a distinctive flavor to foods. Rosemary is a wonderful perennial for permanent landscape uses in areas where winters are mild enough making fine ground covers or handsome hedges. It does best in full sun with well-drained soil. Growth can be controlled by frequent pinching.

I have planted both 'Arp' and 'Hardy Hill' in our garden and have been delighted with the results. Both varieties have weathered three winters (Zone 7) with a prevailing winter wind relentlessly blowing, and each spring have brought the promise of renewed vigor. These upright, rigid growers with their intensely fragrant branches have been the backbone of many summer flower arrangements. They out-last their flower-cousins and their distinctive scent is an added bonus. In addition to use in arranging, rosemary is a must in any kitchen. Roast lamb is incomplete without rosemary!

In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of gardening experience. For further information on gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com

Enjoy Your Garden More With Garden Furniture

Writen by Angel Estrella

So, you have invested a lot of time, money, and hard work into developing your dream garden. Now that your work is finished, what will you do next? Stay inside and look out the windows at what you have created? Or buy some terrific garden furniture so you can sit outside in your creation, relax and enjoy the surroundings? I say you should buy the garden furniture, because you can't really enjoy the full benefits of your garden from your kitchen window.

Before considering any large purchases, you should definitely do some research. As many people are now into gardening, there are numerous resources to be found that will help you make the best decision. You want to buy the best garden furniture that fits your budget, so that it will last for years to come. One major thing to decide is whether you intend to store the garden furniture during the winter, or leave it as a permanent fixture in your garden. Obviously, if you plan to leave it outside year round, you should opt for the garden furniture made of weather resistant, durable materials. It is also important to look at how the garden furniture is put together, and at what type of hardware is used, which can greatly impact the usefulness and how long your garden furniture will hold up. Garden furniture can be found made from many different types of materials, and it is up to you to decide what will work best with your particular garden.

One should also try to choose garden furniture that will go well with the type of garden they have. You want your garden furniture to compliment your hard work, not detract from it.

If you opt to purchase all natural wooden garden furniture, you should take into consideration the amount of maintenance required to keep it looking well and in good condition. It most likely will need to be weather proofed every so often, and possibly stained occasionally depending on what particular type you select.

If you plan to spend a lot of time in your garden, you should take into consideration how comfortable your garden furniture is. No one wants to sit outside and have to worry about their aching back and legs, that is for sure. This is one time that you should definitely opt for as much comfort as possible. The idea is to enjoy your garden, and being uncomfortable would not make that an easy task.

It may also be a good idea to purchase some covers for your garden furniture, to keep it protected from weather and dirt when it is not in use. You should consider this as an investment, and so it is important to protect it to make it last.

No matter what type of garden furniture you choose to purchase, it will definitely be an added plus to your garden, one that you are sure to enjoy a long time.

Learn more about garden furniture - visit our website at http://www.best-garden-furniture-guide.info for garden furniture articles and reviews.

Your Rose Garden Planting

Writen by Robert Roy

Sometime during the year you will probably plant roses in your rose garden. There are many opinions on how to do this but I will tell you what has worked for me.

First let me distinguish planting rose into the rose garden that are dormant plants compared with those grown in pots or containers.

Roses which are dormant and bare roots grow well but usually don't bloom as long as those in the containers or pots. The latter are usually growing and not dormant. If you are buying dormant plants make sure that you are getting #1 grade. These will give you a much better crop during the summer to your rose garden.

Preparing The Soil

Pick an area that will get at least 5-6 hours of sunlight a day. Sun is a very important part of the growth cycle of your rose garden.

The soil should be a good loam and can be mixed with some clay. The loam should be down to a depth of at least 12-15 inches. Dig the soil out for the plant so that it will fit the plant with no damage to the roots and that the first bud spike will set about an inch below the surface.

I would also suggest that at the bottom of the hole you use a fork to loosen the dirt.

Now The Planting

Before setting the plant into the hole in the rose garden, I suggest that you mix some farm manure into the loosened dirt at the bottom. Trim any damaged roots and then set it into the hole.

Now that the rose is set into the hole be sure that the loam you put put around the plant is loose as well. Fill the hole to about 2/3 - 3/4 and tap it down. Water the plant and the dirt. Let the water settle then add the rest of the loam.

Be sure that the first bud spike is at least one inch below the surface.

For dormant plants mound the soil over the plant so it will not dry out. For plants that were in pots or containers there is no need to mound the soil in the rose garden.

It is fine to have a few inches of mulch around the plant base as this contains the moisture.

Watering

Roses should be watered about every 7 - 10 days and you need to water the base of the plant. If you water the flower it is easier for the plant to have disease infect it.

Although this presents as a diversion from orchids it is definitely in line with our additional items we have added.

Planting Season

Planting can take place between mid October and mid May. You should not plant or transplant after mid May until October. Good growing in your rose garden.

Did you enjoy this article? If you did sign up for more in our monthly newsletter. You will recieve free "All About Orchids" e-book and a 10% discount on an orchid plant.

Why Organic Vegetable Is Healthier

Writen by Sanggaya Lanny

No pesticides, no chemical fertilizer and no other harmful supplement! The vegetable is planted organically which means free from chemical residue.

For the non-organic, right handling system is necessarily required before cooking, ensure to wash throughly by the flowing water, so that the chemical residue can go along the water, or otherwise the chemical residue still attach to the vegetable, then what happen if we eat the toxins for long term consumption, especially for the children. They can be harmful for human health.

Organic vegetable is not only healthy but also believed can cure accumulated toxin substances inside the body. This phenomenon comes from the 'natural healing' or known as natural healing technique through natural healthy food. Eat free chemical food, in order to stop adding more toxin to the body and this will maximize body immune. Basic knowledge of the natural healing technique is telling that 'what we eat is the best medicine' means that the more healthier food we eat, the more healthier we are.

Organic vegetable is not only safe, but also consists of 10% – 50% antioxide compare to the non-organic vegetable. Antioxide plays important rules to reduce 'free-radical' as the main source of serious health problems, such cancer. More over, organic vegetable has C vitamin and higher essential minerals: calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus.

According to the publication of Coronary and Diabetic Care in the United Kingdom in 2004 by the Primary Care Groups and Trust that consumption of organic food will result the following advantages:
1. Reduce chemical consumption to the body
2. Stop possibility of genetic manipulation of agricultural products and their negative impact inside the body
3. Increase useful nutrition consumption such as vitamin, mineral and antioxide
4. Reduce diseases potential: cancer, allergy, heart attack and hyperactive to kids

Other advantages of organic vegetables compare to the non-organic vegetables are:
1. Tastier and sweeter: for instance beans, carrot and cabbage, you can also try chili, it has stronger taste and even hotter ;-)
2. Cabbage and lettuce have more solid textures and crunchy
3. Fresh more longer. You can keep the organic carrot for more than 3 weeks, but the non-organic only 3 days.

But you will find pale colour and holes on the organic vegetables. Why? because organic farmers only use organic pesticides and fertilizer and manual plantation process, while chemical supplements can result immediate reaction to pests and add more stronger colour to the vegetables.

Prices of the organic vegetables are even more expensive in certain markets. Why? because there are only few organic farmers. But health is everything and nothing can compare to it. Be healthy and happy eating healthy food!

More useful tips and information about organic gardening and organic food, just visit your website at www.gardening-organic.net

Lanny Sanggaya

Garden Furniture How To Care For Your New Wooden Investment

Writen by Marx Lomas

If you are ever in doubt how best to care for your purchases just ask your retailer or the manufacturer who should be happy to help. The information below should however be used as a quick reference in conjunction with the instructions provided with your garden furniture purchase. There are three main types of wooden garden furniture namely Teak, Iroko and Jarrah (Eucalyptus), this article will detail basic care advice for all three types of wood and can be applied to various others, in conjunction with manufacturer guidelines.

The furniture may be left untreated and will, over a few months, weather to a soft silvery grey this look is preferred by some people. However, the use of timber treatment or teak oil is recommended to keep the furniture looking at its best and slow down the natural weathering process. There are many excellent products available and various shades with which to treat the wood. Treated wood will maintain a glossy brighter colour depending on the type of oil used and the variety of wood. Cleaning wooden garden furniture is relatively simple, treated or not the furniture will need to be kept clean. An occasional wipe or scrub down as necessary with warm water and detergent, or timber cleaner, is recommended. The wood should be completely clean and dry before treating. After initial treatment regular light applications of timber treatment will be necessary to retain the finish, please see care label or fact sheet for full details.

Storage is always a problem especially if you live in harsher climates, if you have storage space it is best practice to put the garden furniture away for the worst months as this will keep it in peak condition. If you have no storage space get a specialist garden furniture cover preferably made by the same manufacturer as the garden furniture so the fit is correct, these will protect from water wind and sun. This practice will prolong the life and keep your new wooden garden furniture looking excellent. This leads to the next topic of weathering. As part of the weathering process, cracks and splits will appear particularly on the end grain and to a lesser extent on the surface, within a few weeks to months depending on your climate. But should not be too significant else I would suggest you contact you supplier. As with other close grain hardwoods such as oak, this is normal behaviour of the timber. Natural oils and minerals in the wood evaporate due to exposure to the elements. The furniture is designed with this in mind and its strength and durability remain unaffected

One last after though is to ensure proper care of your cushions if you have any, they are particularly sensitive to harsh weather conditions like strong sun which can bleach the colour, so cover them up or put them in storage while not in use. Observe the proper cleaning instruction as per the manufactures recommendations or cleaning labels.

Garden furniture is an excellent addition to any outdoor environment and is an expensive investment so take proper care of it and you will reap the rewards later.

Marx Lomas Styles Garden Centre - Garden Furniture Outlet

Japanese Beetles The Plain Truth About Traps And A Tiny New Winged Hope

Writen by Fred Davis

Every year visitors to our gardens here in Maine bring questions about some problem or other in their gardens. Not surprisingly, many have to do with near-Biblical hoards of Japanese Beetles, and the relationship between burgeoning numbers of these destructive insects and those readily-available pheromone lure beetle traps on merchant's shelves.

Well, what about Japanese Beetle traps? Do they really work? Or are they -- as more and more of us are finally realizing -- part of the problem? You may find my response to the following frustrated gardener's recent emailed plea for help enlightening. . .if not encouraging:

"Help! Japanese Beetles were especially bad this year. We put up three traps and had more beetles than anyone else in our neighborhood! What did we do wrong?"

Some things simply resist explanation, while solutions to other pressing gardening problems are so patently apparent that I'm surprised everyone hasn't already deduced the answer. To get to the core of the problem, during 2004 we conducted a survey of sorts, asking garden visitors about their experiences and thoughts on the subject.

About half of those queried felt there were increased populations of Japanese Beetles that season; the other half said there seemed to be fewer. Not surprisingly, most of the more beetles half had installed commercial pheromone traps in their gardens or on lawns. Japanese beetles literally flocked around those traps!

If anything can be faulted for increased numbers of these rascals in the garden, it certainly wasn't the above gardener. If trap manufacturers had bothered to print a simple advisory on the label, more folks would have been in the less-beetles half. Seems to me it wouldn't have taken rocket science to anticipate the hoards that would be drawn to precisely the wrong spot. . .the banquet table!

You see, beetles are attracted to traps from hundreds of feet away. Putting those traps in the midst of a garden is tantamount to sending out engraved invitations to the salad bar. True, many of them will eventually get caught in the trap but not before they inflict serious damage to nearby expensive or treasured landscape plants. If that's been your experience, you would be far better off buying traps for your up-wind neighbors to hang in their yards! Next year, if you feel you must purchase traps, locate them upwind and away from your garden (we found that 75' to 100' was an optimal distance for our circumstances). Just determine from which direction the prevailing wind comes and locate the trap there. A light breeze will carry the pheromone scent across your yard, beetles will detect the odor and fly out and toward the direction of their demise. Simple. . .cleverly deceptive. . .and notably effective.

Finally a predator! - A Tiny Winged Hope. Imagine, for a moment, that spring is about to burst upon the gardening scene. Adult Japanese Beetles (Popillia japonica) emerge from the ground, take wing, and begin a search for our roses, grapes, hollyhocks, maples, and Virginia creeper vines. . .not to mention mates! Since their introduction from the Orient in about 1916, these wretched little jewel-like insects have been the bane of gardeners and market farmers. The only marginally-effective controls during much of that time were hand-picking, application of BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) to lawns and mowed areas, or the spread of dangerous chemicals.

Now a new "star" has emerged onto the gardening scene: Istocheta aldrichi, a small Tachinid fly whose primary goal in life is to locate small beetles upon which to glue their eggs. It was actually introduced in 1922 specifically to parasitize -- and therefore control -- other destructive agriculturally-important insects. Their general appearance is much like common houseflies, the difference being that tachinids nearly always remain outdoors and feed chiefly on nectar, honeydew and, occasionally, pollen, deposit only eggs, and have extra bristle-like hairs on their abdomen. Common houseflies, on the other hand, have much shorter abdominal "hairs," seek out malodorous garbage, rotting carrion, smelly outhouses, and leftover food scraps upon which to deposit their live-born larvae ("maggots"). Tachinids have more or less recently developed a taste for Japanese Beetles. Here's how they get the job done:

*Tachinid flies over-winter as pupae in the long-dead shells of their beetle hosts, then emerge as adult flies during early June in the Northeast.

*Adults feed on the products of flowers (causing no damage in the process), locate a mate, then immediately begin the search for an appropriate host (mostly newly-emerged beetles) upon which to firmly glue from one to three eggs.

*Each female tachinid can deposit about 100 eggs over a fourteen day period. The deposited egg hatches within 24 hours and the resulting tiny larvae quickly burrows into the beetle's abdominal cavity where it proceeds to consume the insect .

*The now-parasitized beetle almost immediately falls to the ground and buries itself, where it perishes in a few days, usually without having laid its eggs. Compare that brief unproductive existence to the normal 28- to 40-day destructive lifespan of non-parasitized beetles.

*A few days after the host beetle dies, pupation (the next step in tachinid development) occurs, a stage that generally lasts about 1-1/2 to 2 weeks in ideal environmental and weather conditions, followed immediately by emergence of a second generation of these beneficial predator flies.

*Newly emerged adult tachinid flies repeat the sequence all over again until cooling fall weather signals the last generation of the season to remain in the ground until the following spring.

There are a great many types of tachinid flies that "specialize" in parasitizing a wide variety of insects including caterpillars like cabbage loopers and moth larvae and, of course, beetles. Field studies have consistently shown that from 40 to 50% of Northern New England Japanese Beetle populations are currently being parasitized by this very efficient little fly. So, follow these two very important new "rules":

If, while scouting your garden for Japanese Beetles, you spot one or more small, 1 mm whitish dots glued just behind their heads, don't -- repeat: don't -- destroy them. I know that's going to be difficult for most gardeners, but it's been shown that those beetles very shortly fall to the ground to be quickly destroyed by an even more aggressive foe than us. . .and those beetles will never have the chance to lay any more eggs or harm your cherished plants!

Also important is avoidance of toxic chemicals -- or even natural insecticides -- that might destroy or hinder the highly-desirable activities of just about any outdoor, nectar-feeding fly. It's all part of keeping a good thing going. . .and being a responsible gardener!

Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-frills gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com/