Thursday, July 31, 2008

Garden Tips Landscaping With Stones

Writen by Carlo Morelli

A patio or a garden is a place where you expect to find comfort and peace, a place where you want to bring the nature closer to you, especially if you live in a city. For this purpose, you should symbolize the relation between nature and human, by using natural elements like stones or water. Landscaping with stones is the solely and the most at hand solution. If you intend to bring nature as close as possible, then the best option is definitely represented by the landscaping with stones, be it the case of water stones or regular, mountain stones.

What stones do is to bring completion to the process of creating a relaxing, comfortable and charming environment. Besides the plants or the small waterfalls, a beautifully organized landscaping with stones is sure to augment the value and the beauty of the space. The more precious the stones you're using, the more valuable can your propriety become.

If arranged correctly and with the help of a professional designer, your stone arrangements are sure to make a blast, a fantastic impression on the viewer and on your visitors. A skillful organization of the stones brings out that feeling of freshness, of peace and calm. Landscaping with stones, also named 'hardscape', requires great skills of organization, especially if the space doesn't allow you too much.

For this reason, the best job can be done by a specialist in this field, by a person who knows how to integrate and how to combine all the natural elements, be it the case of plants, trees and/or stones. A professional knows exactly what to place where and how to combine the components in order to attain your purpose. Therefore, I advise you not to begin constructing and decorating the landscaping with stones, unless you have previously had a meeting with a designer.

The amount of stone that you want to use in the decoration of your house depends on several things. In the first place, it depends on how much time and money you are willing to spend with the landscaping with stone. Some people keep it simple and decorate with stone only the driveway entrance, while others prefer a more rustic atmosphere by landscaping with stone almost every inch of their garden or they even go inside the house.

In the second place, it depends on what type of environment you want to create when landscaping with stones, because some prefer a simpler, a more modest, not too crowded places. In this case, they choose to use only a small quantity of stones.

The answer to this question is simple: anywhere you like. Most prefer the landscaping with stones in their patios, due to the fact that it is an open space and the stones seem natural outdoors. The patios are, in fact, what connect the interior to the exteriors, thus creating a bond between the house and the landscaping. The landscaping with stones actually creates outdoor living spaces, spaces that become familiar and relaxing. More extravagant people prefer decorating their entire house with stones. This landscaping with stones is therefore a matter of preference and choice when it comes to the amount of stones used. Some use stones only in their outdoor spaces, other use them everywhere, from their living-rooms to their bathrooms or balconies. You can use stones to decorate the walls, the paths in your garden, the interior or the exterior columns, for the outbuilding or in the water gardens.

An important aspect in the landscaping with stones is represented by the colors and by the shapes of the stones that you choose according to your desired style and imagination. For all these you should just consult a professional expert in this field.

Copper Mail Boxes

Writen by Elizabeth Morgan

Mounting a copper mailbox greatly adds to the attractiveness of your house and holds your mail with panache. Recessed copper mailboxes are even better, as they hold your important mail under lock and key thus keeping all your mails safely. These mailboxes are resistant to theft and vandalism.

Even if you are away from home for several days, recessed copper mailboxes keep your mail safe. These mailboxes can be accessed only with the key provided to you when you purchased them.

Copper mailboxes may look fancy, but there also copper mailboxes having huge storage capacity for bulk mail and large packages. Some copper mailboxes are also available in weatherproof types, and inhibit rusting to make it more durable. Decorative recessed copper mailboxes are reasonably priced, lightweight, user-friendly and easy to install.

Recessed copper mailboxes are approved by the United States Postal Service, and give you value for your money. They are so safe that they can even be installed outside your garden without fear.

Copper mailboxes are available in fancy shapes such as ducks, bird nests, houses, trellis, and eclectic designs, thus giving you a wide choice while purchasing them.

Mailboxes are usually available at your local home décor store, or you could purchase a ready-to-assemble kit and install it by simply following the instructions. You could also check the Internet to find stores that stock recessed copper mailboxes, or get a discount along with a warranty for mailboxes directly from the manufacturers. Finally, avoid keeping your keys in a location easily accessible to others.

Mail Boxes provides detailed information on Mail Boxes, Residential Mail Boxes, Copper Mail Boxes, Decorative Mail Boxes and more. Mail Boxes is affiliated with Foam Mattresses.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

How To Get Rid Of A Mouse

Writen by Emma Drosy

If your house has small opening, mouse may utilize these small opening to enter your house and you will definitely need to know how to get rid of mouse. The mouse may sometimes be very small to weigh less than even one ounce and will require small opening to enter your house even mouse can enter through a quarter inch crack. The mouse will try all type of food and items available to them in your house, although the preferred food for mouse is seed and grain. They can damage many daily use items, they can dig the places they found week on our house and mouse will also produce many offspring. They are the nuisances to not only us but they cause many losses to our valuables including clothes and foods.

Contamination of food can cause various diseases and we must try to get rid of these as soon as they enter our home.There are many metal traps available in the market and you can use a suitable trap. These are made up from metal wires with both the end open and a peanut or any other grain is attached to hook closed at one end and open at the other. As soon as the mouse tries to eat the nut, the other door is closed and the mouse is trapped inside the metal box. You can release the mouse in some field but try to release the mouse as far as you can.

Although there are various poisons available in the market for killing the mouse, you should avoid the poison as this may cause the mouse dead under your house. This will invite other animals such as cat to come and eat and is dangerous for the cats also. Further the smell may remain in your house or long periods. So the trap is best option to get rid of mouse. There are tall claims made by many ultrasonic repel device manufacturing and marketing companies, however these repel devices are rarely useful. These are based on damaging the nervous system of mouse and that may take months.

There are only a few useful techniques to get rid of mouse and you should use a proven method.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Advantages Of Aluminum Fences

Writen by Damian Sofsian

Aluminum is the preferred choice for fencing due to several inherent advantages of aluminum. The main advantage is that aluminum components do not rust as easily as iron. Aluminum fences are given a powder-coat finish that protects the surfaces. This kind of a finish also enhances its appearance and provides a smooth surface for painting, if desired. All the components of the fence are drilled and powder-coated prior to assembly. Extreme care is taken during assembly by using sturdy fasteners, brackets, and rivets. Wherever these fasteners, etc., need to be visible, attractive stainless steel ones are used. This provides both looks and strength.

As aluminum is an easy metal to work with, a plethora of style choices and adornment options are made available to clients. The flexibility of the metal allows for several designs that can complement the façade of the structure they are installed around.

A little bit of care exercised during manufacture can ensure a maintenance free fence. Aluminum fences also meet prescribed safety standards. They are easy to install and are thus cost effective, saving you plenty of money in terms of labor cost. The durability of aluminum fences is such that most of them come with a lifetime warranty.

The option of a powder-coating finish in various colors gives customers a wide variety of choices. This is one of the main attractions of aluminum fences. The powder coating rarely requires any kind of maintenance.

Another important factor in favor of aluminum fences is their competitive pricing. They are more long lasting and cheaper than the traditional wood or wrought iron fences. In case part of a fence is damaged, then the damaged part can easily be replaced without disturbing the rest of the fence. Being lightweight, aluminum fences are also easy to manage. Aluminum fences are available in four grades of quality. The lightest grade is residential grade and the heaviest is industrial grade. Hence, aluminum fences can fulfill both home and industrial needs.

Aluminum Fences provides detailed information on Aluminum Fences, Affordable Alluminum Fences, Ornamental Aluminum Fences, Aluminum Pool Fences and more. Aluminum Fences is affiliated with Installing Vinyl Fences.

Monday, July 28, 2008

3 Hillside Landscaping Tips For A Beautiful And Healthy Garden

Writen by Shrinivas Vaidya

Hillside landscaping is considered one of the challenging jobs by landscape designers. the simple reason for this is the problem of soil erosion and inability to hold water that is necessary for healthy growth of plants.

Before we dig into the possibilities of creating a hillside landscape I want to bring to your attention a very vital point that should not be overlooked. Unlike a plain land surface a hillside or a sloping land if formed naturally should never be disturbed. The form of the land thus formed because of accumulation of the ground elements such as soil, rocks or combination of these is the best possible form in that particular natural environment.

Always remember that "nature" has its own rules and deep thinking behind every minutest details, as humans we must first learn to pay attention and respect to these details and help or co-ordinate in the ecological process of any landscape form. True beauty and success of any landscape comes by working in accordance with natural growth cycle. of course we using our creative brains can certainly create beautiful hillside landscapes. Here I am trying to give you 3 possible options.

Option #1

Create Terraces in the for of plain lands. the number of such terraces directly depend upon the degree of slope. The plain land at various such levels above the ground level is supported by retaining walls constructed in stones. Arrangement to drip of water from the portion of soil the wall supports must be done at the time of construction.

Option #2

Instead of creating terraces, another option is to keep the sloped land as it is and create a "rock garden" on the slope. The main advantage of using this system is that the cost of constructing retaining wall gets reduced immediately. The rocks used in the rock garden are usually boulders that are used in wall construction.

Since the rocks have a considerable "self weight" no extra foundation is needed and they help in holding down the soil around them by prevention soils erosion. the space that remains around the rocks can be used to plant beautiful flowering plants that will cover the slope entirely. this creates an awesome design of rocks and flowers (hard and soft) landscape.

option #3

The third option is creating pocket trenches of slightly large trees at regular intervals horizontally and vertically. the pocket trenches are nothing but plain terraces (similar to option #1) but not for the entire length of the slope. The pocket trenches should be laid out that would be enough to hold a tree in place even if the tree grows bigger in future. The roots of these trees will eventually grow in all directions holding the soil in place and the plain trenches will co-operate in seeping of water in the internal parts of the slope.

The remaining portion of the slope can be creatively used using the rock garden ideas mentioned above with a combination of soft and hard landscaping.

I hope these ideas will help to develop a spark of imagination in your mind and you will be able to come up with more ideas to landscape a hillside.

Copyright Shrinivas Vaidya

Want to see a graphical presentation of hillside landscaping? Visit my website http://www.landscapingdatabase.com to learn some great tips on various aspects of landscaping for your home garden.

Concrete And Hypertufa Molds With Silicone Caulking Compound

Writen by Delmar Germyn

Before we start this project let me warn you that it is a messy business. You should have some rubber gloves, a couple of tubes of clear silicone caulking compound, (don't get the odorless kind) some Xylene, (this is for cleanup so get a pint or so) a can of paste wax, a small bottle of glycerin, and some acrylic crafters paint.

You should be able to get glycerin at a pharmacy; you only need a little so get the smallest bottle you can.

Crafters acrylic paint is in any craft store; again you need to get the smallest bottle. Any color you like is good. The rest of the stuff should be at your local building supply.

If you have tried to use silicone for molds before you probably noticed that there are a couple of problems.

1 – It is a little thick and therefore difficult to spread evenly.

2 – It does not cure evenly

3 - It sticks to the Master like glue! I guess that is why it is sometimes used for glue?

I will show you how to overcome these problems in this little essay.

The first thing you do is get the Master ready. He would like a nice coat of that paste wax. Put it all over him and smooth and buff him until the surface is nice and shiny. I told you this was a lot of work!

Take as much silicone as you think you will need to cover your Master and put it in a plastic bowl. The bowl should be big enough to allow you to stir the silicone.

A tube of silicone is about 10 ounces so you can get a rough idea of how much you have in the bowl by estimating how much you have taken from the tube. For each ounce of silicone add 5 drops of glycerin and a drop of paint. Mix these together and add them to the silicone. Go easy with this and only use minimal amounts. The more you use the weaker the silicone gets. Stir this until you have a uniform color. That is why you added the paint, without it it's is hard to tell if you have the glycerin completely mixed. You are using clear silicone so you can see if you have any air bubbles trapped in your first coat. You don't want any, so try to get it mixed as smooth and even as you can. Don't stir any more than you have to, stirring can create air bubbles.

You now have between 15 and 45 minutes to spread this over your Master. I use a soft plastic spatula about 1 inch wide. This seems a bit small bit it makes it easy to keep the silicone coating even. Make the first coat thin, about 1/8". It is the most important coat. This is the one that holds the details. The working time depends on temperature and humidity. If it is hot and warm you have 15 minutes! In a cool, dry place you will have 45 minutes or more. You may want to try spreading this on some throw away masters before you try to do your first "real" mold. You have to get a good, even coat on the first time. I can't stress this enough. If the first coat is no good you may as well start over.

It should be cured in about 3 hours. I wait a couple of hours before I start with my 2nd, 3rd, etc coats. These can be thicker and you don't need to worry about any air pockets. I don't mean that you can have huge air holes in the silicone, but small ones are not a major concern. You will want to build up to at least ¾ or more inches of thickness. Be sure to fill any undercuts on the outside of your rubber mold.

Nice day on the Bay! I went fishing once. The fish I caught told me to go home and start a Blog! He said fish taste awfull, throw me back and spend some time Blogging. Beware the Dreaded Theet O Vac! You can help Mankind overcome the Thetan problem that Ron L. Hubbard devoted over 35 years of his life to. Think about it. "decimus nusiri diegg" (Beware the Dreaded Theet O Vac!)

DelsMolds

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Sunday, July 27, 2008

Soil Erosion Control

Writen by David S

Soil erosion is a costly problem, so it is very important to plan ahead when buying a home. Making sure soil erosion control and rain damage prevention are done right during the original landscaping and building of your home will lead to a nicer overall yard and keeping your yearly maintenance costs down.

The by-product of soil erosion is sediment. You've seen this after a hard rain on your sidewalks and driveways. Sediment from soil erosion is the largest pollutant in our lakes, rivers and streams. If your yard sediment clogs up your storm sewers, it can cause flooding. Any uncovered land on your property, no matter how large or small an area, is susceptible to rain damage and soil erosion.

Sediment from yards can also be a major source of phosphorus in lakes and streams. When you get excess phosphorus, there is a higher likelihood of unhealthy algae blooms. These algae blooms cause an awful smell, and can kill fish and other water life. Rain damage prevention along with soil erosion control is the better way to keep our waterways clear and the environment clean. (Not to mention it is much more cost effective to prevent the damage than to try to restore something after it has been damaged.)

There are key ways to keeping your yard looking better. Some common ways of planning for soil erosion control and rain damage prevention are:

• Cover all stock-piled soil you have on your property. When these soil stock-piles are not in use, keeping them covered with a weighted plastic tarp will help with soil erosion control.

• Plant a temporary vegetative cover on your unfinished yard. When you have an area of your yard that is bare and won't be touched for a while, just plant something temporarily to help hold the soil in place. Annual rye grass is a good choice for this.

• Use mulch. Any areas of soil that are exposed and next to a hard surface, like a sidewalk or driveway, should be covered and stabilized by mulch or mulch and a temporary vegetative covering. There are many types of mulching products, including straw, straw netting blankets and wood fiber blankets. When you place these on large areas of bare ground, you are doing the best thing possible for rain damage prevention and soil erosion control.

• When your home landscaping is complete, permanently seed or sod your entire yard. This will stabilize the soil for the life of your yard.

Now that we have covered many soil erosion control methods, we can move to the rain damage prevention of your home.

When a house is built, water that lands on the roof generally runs off and is taken to the ground through gutters and downspouts. Gutters should be properly fitted from the start and pitched toward the downspouts. Keeping the gutters sloping to the downspouts will accelerate water flow, and will allow the water to flow easily. To keep this all from leaking, any joints in the gutters and downspouts should be caulked.

Downspouts are normally found on the corners of the house. All downspouts should be properly fitted with screws and sealers. At the bottom of the downspout, piping situated underground is connected and all water will be taken away from the house through subsurface drainage.

Although this design for rain damage prevention and soil erosion control has been around for many years, sometime it can be very costly. If any maintenance is needed, whether due to leakage or clogging, you can be looking at a hefty bill.

Now enters the "new kid on the block" for rain damage prevention and soil erosion control. There is a product on the market that actually extends your downspout far enough out into your yard to help keep your home safe from rain damage and soil erosion. Rainguard Downspout Extensions are placed on the bottom of a downspout and they roll out when it rains to drain the water away from your home. What is especially nice about these extensions are that they roll back up and out of the way when it is not raining.

So, as you can see, you have many options for soil erosion control and rain damage prevention in property you own and maintain. A rain storm does not have to be a problem for you or your environment.

This article was prepared for this soil erosion control site, please visit them for more information.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Landscape Plans An Essential Element

Writen by Andy Green

Landscape plans are essential to persons planning to landscape their gardens on their own. One of the common mistakes is not properly planning out all the activities in redesigning a landscape. This can often lead to the feeling that what started as a simple project is now just too much work.

One of the first steps necessary to landscape plans is determining the size of the area available to work within. This information can be obtained in two ways. The first is from another source such as local county records or the developer and the second is the do it yourself approach. Both approaches require measurements of your plot to be carried out. The first method only requires the confirmation that the plan is accurate and can then be used as the base of your design. The second requires more work.

The "do it yourself" method is actually very simple. Using a sheet of graph paper you can plot your own base plan. The first thing to do is determine the size of your plot of land. Find a suitable scale and ensure that the area measured can be plotted on one single sheet of graph paper. It is then important to measure the area on the plot that is occupied by structures such as houses and pools. The measurement of the house can be determined by simple measurements to the boundaries of the plot. It is important to make some copies of your base plan as mistakes do happen.

In the design phase of landscape planning it is important to put some effort into researching what options are available. Some great designs can be sourced from neighbors, libraries and on the internet. There are many styles or themes that can be followed dependent on the design of your home and the area available.

The next stage is using your base landscape plans to start putting in a loose sketch of the activity areas that you envision. This will include the decisions made in the research portion of the landscape plans. It should also take into consideration the movements that have to be made to walk around your yard as this will provide information on the design of pathways. At this stage the general placement and size of plants required should be included. It is also necessary to include necessities at this stage such as drainage, slope or gradient changes or other alterations such as stairs. Other details such as ponds and decks can be included at this stage.

In your final landscape plans you will then include all the details in a "to scale" blueprint that can be plotted on your base plan. All the materials needed as well as the particulars of the types of plants can be decided at this stage.

Andy Green is a successful webmaster and publisher of Landscapes and Landscaping. He provides advice on landscape plans at his website http://landscapes-and-landscaping.com.

Friday, July 25, 2008

A History Of The Romantic Rose

Writen by Charles Farricielli

"It was roses, roses all the way." - Robert Browning

"What's in a name? That which we call a rose; by any other name would smell as sweet."

- William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet, Act 2 scene 2

- Roses have a long and colorful history. According to fossil evidence, the rose is 35 million years old. Today, there are over 30,000 varieties of roses and it has the most complicated family tree of any known flower species.

The cultivation of roses most likely began in Asia around 5000 years ago. They have been part of the human experience ever since and mentions of the flower are woven into a great many tales from the ancient world. And there are so many beautiful stories that include roses through out the ages that we all can recognize. Greek mythology tells us that it was Aphrodite who gave the rose its name, but it was the goddess of flowers, Chloris, who created it. One day while Chloris was cleaning in the forest she found the lifeless body of a beautiful nymph. To right this wrong Chloris enlisted the help of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, who gave her beauty; then called upon Dionysus, the god of wine, who added nectar to give her a sweet scent. When it was their turn the three Graces gave Chloris charm, brightness and joy. Then Zephyr, the West Wind, blew away the clouds so that Apollo, the sun god, could shine and make the flower bloom. And so the Rose was... In another story, an ancient Hindu legend, Brahma (the creator of the world) and Vishnu (the protector of the world) argued over whether the lotus was more beautiful than the rose. Vishnu backed the rose, while Brahma supported the lotus. But Brahma had never seen a rose before and when he did he immediately recanted. As a reward Brahma created a bride for Vishnu and called her Lakshmi — she was created from 108 large and 1008 small rose petals.

Several thousands of years later, on the other side of the world in Crete, there are Frescoes which date to c. 1700BC illustrating a rose with five-pedaled pink blooms. Discoveries of tombs in Egypt have revealed wreaths made with flowers, with roses among them. The wreath in the tomb of Hawara (discovered by the English archaeologist William Flinders Petrie) dates to about AD 170, and represents the oldest preserved record of a rose species still living.

Roses later became synonymous with the worst excesses of the Roman Empire when the peasants were reduced to growing roses instead of food crops in order to satisfy the demands of their rulers. The emperors filled their swimming baths and fountains with rose-water and sat on carpets of rose petals for their feasts and orgies. Roses were used as confetti at celebrations, for medicinal purposes, and as a source of perfume. Heliogabalus used to enjoy showering his guests with rose petals which tumbled down from the ceiling during the festivities.

During the fifteenth century, the factions fighting to control England used the rose as a symbol. The white rose represented York, and the red rose symbolized Lancaster. Not surprisingly, the conflict between these factions became known as the War of the Roses.

In the seventeenth century roses were in such high demand that roses and rose water were considered as legal tender. In this capacity they were used as barter in the markets as well as for any payments the common people had to make to royalty. Napoleon's wife Josephine loved roses so much she established an extensive collection at Chateau de Malmaison, an estate seven miles west of Paris. This garden of more than 250 rose varieties became the setting for Pierre Joseph Redoute's work as a botanical illustrator and it was here Redoute completed his watercolor collection "Les Rose," which is still considered one of the finest records of botanical illustration.

Cultivated roses weren't introduced into Europe until the late eighteenth century. These introductions came from China and were repeat bloomers, making them of great interest to hybridizers who no longer had to wait once a year for their roses to bloom. From this introduction, experts today tend to divide all roses into two groups. There are "old roses" (those cultivated in Europe before 1800) and "modern roses" (those which began to be cultivated in England and France around the turn of the 19th century). Until the beginning of the 19th century, all roses in Europe were shades of pink or white. Our romantic symbol of the red rose first came from China around 1800. Unusual green roses arrived a few decades later. Bright yellow roses entered the palette around 1900. It was the Frenchman Joseph Permet-Ducher who is credited with the discovery. After more than 20 years of breeding roses in a search for a hardy yellow variety, he luck changed when one day he simply stumbled across a mutant yellow flower in a field. We have had yellow and orange roses ever since.

The rose is a phenomenal plant and is rightly known as 'the world's favorite flower'. No other flower has ever experienced the same popularity that the rose has enjoyed in the last fifth years. In temperate climates, roses are more widely grown than any other ornamental plant, and as cut flowers they are forever in fashion.

It has been estimated that 150 million plants are purchased by gardeners worldwide every year, and sophisticated breeding programs have produced a plant that dominates the world's cut flower market; the annual crop is calculated in tons. Roses have also made a tremendous contribution to the perfume industry. Roses boast an ancient lineage, and they are intricately entwined in our history and culture. As a motif, the rose has been and still is depicted in many national emblems. It has been adopted by countless political factions, and even by businesses and several international events.

"THE ORIGINS OF CULTIVATED ROSES"

Rose's species have a natural distribution through out most parts of the Northern Hemisphere. Paleontologists inform us that they become established in the Tertiary Period, which began 70 million years ago. This means that the ancestors of the rose predate the evolution of humans Europe and the Middle East- The Dawn of Rose Breeding Well before the Christian era, the transportation of useful plants had played an essential part in the expansion of civilizations. The sprawling Roman Empire together with the excursions of Alexander the Great in Asia introduced many species never seen before in the Middle East and Europe. The dog rose (Rosa canina), for example, was long thought to be a native of Britain, but was in fact brought there by the Romans. By about AD 1200 the first five groups of domesticated roses had already begun to evolve in cultivation: Albas, Centifolias, Damasks, Gallicas and Scots Roses.

"The Far East - the Birthplace of the Modern Garden Rose "

Although rose growing enjoyed high popularity in the gardens of Europe for many hundreds of years, it was not until the end of the eighteenth century, with the discovery of R. chinensis in China, that a major step forward was achieved. The revolutionary characteristic of this rose is its ability to flower repeatedly from early summer to late autumn. Some commentators have used the term 'perpetual flowering' but this can be misinterpreted and used too literally. 'Parson's Pink China', 'Slater's Crimson China'', Hume's Blush Tea-scented China' and Parks' Yellow Tea-scented China' – the first cultivated varieties – opened up a new vista of roses with a modern classical shape, a true crimson color with a very pale hint of the early yellows and a repeat –flowering performance. The Far East became the birthplace of the Modern Garden Rose, and the rest is history.

"East Meets West"

The introduction of roses from the Far East coincided rather neatly with the advent of modern breeding techniques. Although the sexual function of the flower, in particular the function of the anthers and stigma had been revealed in the seventeenth century, this discovery was not used in practical plant breeding for another two hundred years before this time, 'primitive' rose breeders would place two distinct varieties in pots together when both were in full bloom; they knew that there was a reasonable chance that the plants would cross-breed and produce seedlings with shared characteristics of the two parents.

In the early part of the nineteenth century, hybridists, primarily French amateurs, began a planned breeding program with very gratifying results. This was quickly followed up with some enthusiasm by rose-growing devotees all around the world. Soon, rose breeding without first planning the parentage became unthinkable. The subsequent g=progeny produced were identified by groups usually names after their town or country of origin, the hybridist and, in some cases, a wealthy patron. Thus, collective terms such as Bourbons, Noisettes, Hybrid Perpetual and Portland's came into existence with varying degrees of success. Eventually, the collective term Hybrid Teas was coined; 1867 is the date usually quoted when this modern group became a recognizable entity. Since that time, Hybrid Teas (also known as Large-flowered Roses), have progressed from strength to strength.

"The Last Fifty Years"

The early 1950s was a decisive time in the history of the rose. Gardening for leisure, rather than for food, became increasingly popular, and this coincided with the release of a new rose variety called 'Peace'. It is difficult to convey the impact this rose had on gardeners-simply put, everybody was growing it! 'Peace' almost single-handedly advanced the popularity of the rose out of all proportion to any other garden plant. In the last decade there have been many new schools of thought on the role of the rose in the garden. No longer are we subjected to endless formal flowerbeds solely devoted to this single genus. It is not that gardeners have lost their appreciation of these superb blooms, rather it is that they have discovered how wonderful roses can look when grown informally among other plants such as clematis, honeysuckles, delphiniums, lavender, spring bulbs and geraniums. Although disease still rears its ugly head on certain occasion, the rose has become a much more adaptable plant; varieties are available that can be grown as shrubs, climbers, ground covers or in pots. Nowadays, the rose has a place in every garden, even the smallest back yard, and it is telling that the Patio Rose 'Sweet Dream' is one of the best-selling roses today.

THE ROSE IN HISTORY as with most plants that have long been closely associated with the history of people, the rose has become deeply ingrained in our culture and beliefs. The Romans, who originally cultivated the rose as a medicinal plant, also used the blooms to enhance their festivities. The Greeks, however, accepted the rose as a complement to the progress of their culture. Whenever a secret meeting was held, the Greeks used roses to decorate the ceilings of their conference rooms. This indicated that everything discussed was confidential, which is the origin of the phrase sub Rosa. In fifteenth century England, roses were chosen to represent the two rival royal factions: the white rose of the House of York and the red rose of the House of Lancaster. The heraldic Tudor Rose emerged as the emblem of royalty. More recently, roses have been used as motifs to further the aspirations of political parties and national sporting teams.

"Evolution of the Rose"

Throughout the history of civilization, no other flower has been so immortalized and integrated into daily life as the rose. From poetry to music, from festivities to wars, Mother's Day to St Valentine's Day, and birth to death, the rose has held a unique role. There are over 4000 roses listed in this monograph, and they are testimony enough to convince even the ultimate skeptic that roses have a rich tapestry of evolution stretching way back in time. Just how the genus Rosa managed to, and continues to, evolve into one of the world's favorite flowers is an interesting horticultural puzzle. To fully appreciate the development of roses up to the present day, a brief exploration of the early history of roses before 1800 is needed.

Roses in Antiquity Fossil remains found on a slate deposit in Colorado indicate that roses estimated 40 million years ago in North America. Other important fossil findings through the Northern Hemisphere have confirmed the very ancient existence of roses growing as far north as Alaska and Norway and as far south as Mexico. No Wild Roses have been found to grow below the equator, although roses now thrive in the Southern Hemisphere thanks to the deliberate intervention of civilization. Where or when the genus Rosa originated is unknown in spite of the wealth of fossil studies. In theory, the early Wild Roses were most likely cultivated for their hips, which have some nutritional properties, as were their close relatives, the cherries, plums and apples. Most of these early species roses were five-petal, pink or white with some yellows from China. As civilizations developed trade, accidental crosses of there early species started the evolutionary process as they were grown along side each other.

Mention of roses appeared frequently in the written records of early civilizations, such as those of the Chinese, Egyptians, Greeks, Phoenicians and Romans. In 500 BC, Confucius wrote about the roses growing in the Imperial Rose Garden of the Chinese Emperor, Who also had an extensive library of books about roses. It is from such writings that we can glean a picture of rose distribution and cultivation.

The oldest rose we can identify today is Rosa Gallica, which gives very fragrant flowers of deep pink to crimson followed by brick red, sub-globose or turbine hops. The exact geographical origin of R. Gallica is unknown, but there are references to it by the Persians in the twelfth century BC; they regarded it as a strong symbol of love and commitment. The next identifiable rose was the very fragrant R. damasccena, which appeared in descriptive texts around 900 BC. In 50 BC a northern African variant called R. damascena semperflorens, the' Autumn Damask'. Captivated the Romans for its ability to give two bloom cycles instead of just one. Traced back to the fifth century BC, it is believed to have resulted from a cross between R. Gallica and T. moschata (the musk rose). Until the discovery and importation of China roses from the Orient in the late eighteenth century, R damascena semperflorens was the only repeat-bloomers known to the Western world.

Another rose of great historical importance was the Alba Rose, 'White Rose of York', the emblem of the great House of York during the fifteenth century Wars of the Roses. R. alba is probably a lot older, dating back to as early as the second century AD. In early European times, the evolution of the rose had reached a well-defined, simple family tree, which had five distinctive Old Garden Rose classifications: Gallica, Alba, Damask, Centifolia and Moss.

"Roses in the New World"

Of the 200 species of Wild Roses know worldwide, about 35 are considered indigenous to the Unites State, which makes the rose an American as apple pie. The first American species mentioned in European texts was R. Virginian; notable other species are R. Carolina, the 'Pasture Rose', R. setigera, the 'Praire Rose', R. California, R woods and R. palustris, the 'Swamp Rose'. Several of these are named after their naturally selected habitat. Captain John Smith wrote about the Indians of the James River Valley who planted Wild Roses to adorn their village surroundings. In 1621, Edward Winslow, a founder of the Plymouth Colony, planted lots of fragrant white, red and Damask Roses.

"Modern Roses "

In 1867, the French breeder Guillot introduced a medium pink variety called 'La France'. This variety was considered unique in that it possessed the general habit of a Hybrid Perpetual (Mme Victor Verdier', its seed parent) as well as the elegantly shaped buds and free-flowering character of a Tea Rose (Mme Bravy', the pollen parent). Recognition that "La France' demonstrated a new group was delayed for almost thirty years of acrimonious discussion in the popular horticultural magazine of the era. Gardener's Chronicle. Nevertheless, the first Hybrid Tea had been born! Although technical difficulties hindered the direct mimicking of Guillot's work, practical experience over the following twenty years finally resolved the problems and rapid expansion of the Hybrid Tea class with different colors and foliage took place. Hybrid Teas, now known as Large-flowered Roses, quickly replaced Hybrid Perpetual in popularity in gardens all over Europe and America. Planned breeding has now developed over 10,000 Hybrid Teas that demonstrate a wide range of color and blends and even stripes!

A striking specimen of a weeping stand form of the Polyantha Rose "The Fairy".

Roses, roses! Oh beautiful magical aromatic colorful specimens of the idiosyncratic planet. Live on to bring beauty, happiness and love to the people of this world.

By Charles Farricielli

Rosefarm.com International

Articles all about roses as listed on Rosefarm.Com International site.Rose recipies, rose petal info, rose romance ideas, rose poems." Ancient Rose Lore and more romance history, DRYING AND PRESSING FRESH ROSES,Famous Quotes About Roses and Love, Everything Magical the worlds best Rose Oil ! and so much more.

http://www.rosefarm.com/articles.php

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Fertilizing Your Water Lilies

Writen by Brett Fogle

Unfortunately, sunlight is not enough.

Your water lilies will grow, thrive, and bloom much better if you get in the habit of fertilizing them regularly.

The good news is -- It's Easy!

you can either remove your water lily from the pond to fertilize them, your sometimes you can even do it with the plants still in the pond...

I prefer to remove them so I can inspect to see if they are becoming overgrown, and possibly need dividing. This is really the best way, and a good time to kill two birds with one stone.

So, first - remove the pot from the pond. Then drain out any excess water, so you can see the surface of the soil and Rhiozome..

Next, here's a trick I use to fertilize my lilies quickly and easily...

Have a fairly wide tipped flathead screwdriver nearby, and then use it to punch a clear path into the soil and through the existing roots. Then give it a good twisting to hollow our your hole.

You'd be surprised how hard it can be to push a fertilizer tab down into a dense root pack - so try this next time and tell me if it isn't 100% easier.

Now that you have your 'holes' dug - take 3-4 water lily fertilizer tabs out (we like the Tetra Pond fertilizer tabs), and push them down into the holes with your index finger..

That's it -- you're done!

Then just cover up the holes and top off the plant with some fresh dirt, as we discussed in our last article - and you're ready to move onto the next one.

Once you've fertilized all your lilies, just slowly lower them back into the pond..

Here's another trick I use - Don't just drop the pot back into the pond, as trapped air bubbles can sometimes uproot the lily or some soil..

This is espcecially true new pottings, as the soil has not been properly 'set'. Here's what I do:

Lower the pot into the water, just enough to fill it with water, then raise back up out of the water until you see all the air bubbles disappear.

Do this a few more times, until you think you're removed all the air bubbles from the pot - then slowly lower it down into the pond.

There's nothing more frustrating than having a newly potted lily (or any plant) suddenly lift up out of the pot, dumping dirt all over the pond, and having to be repotted.. I'ts happened to me more than once..

So that's it for now, in our next article, we'll talk about trimming and pruning water lilies...

**************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
**************************************************

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Amaryllis Amaryllis How Does Your Garden Grow Quotorganically Of Coursequot

Writen by Marilyn Jansen

Her First Gardens

Her imagination would take her to faraway places where ancient gardens grew, outside castles in England or country farms around the world. She had no idea, when she began, about soil and water, or how to plan. She just got out there into the garden. Her soil was sandy, it had little nutrients; but she was more concerned with the design of her rows. She made the most unusual trenches that swirled in river-like forms and she imagined this is how a garden is planted. She placed the seeds carefully, as instructed on the package, one in each finger hole, about an inch apart, with a half-inch of dirt on top. For days she misted the squiggly rows until, seven days later, amidst the bare dirt, came little leaf pairs emerging from the earth. Each morning she'd look out to see how they were doing and sure enough, they grew into tall skinny zinnias. When they finally bloomed she had to laugh because even in the unhealthy soil they still presented many shades from salmon pink to magenta, bobbing on heavy heads almost falling over.

Cymbidiums My cymbidiums, oncidiums and phaleonopsis all grow in cinder and hapu fern like the Japanese ladies do.

The epiphytes with aerial roots grow so easily. They like the elevation up country I know. I learned that in a book about how certain orchids grow.

But mostly I've learned from others and by trying everything. I keep them evenly moist but never overwater!

My name is Marilyn Jansen.

I live on the island of Maui pursuing life as a writer and budding artist. I worked as a registered nurse for 14 years until I began to follow my true dream of expressing myself creatively through drawing, painting, writing, designing books, creating jewelry, and fashion designs and developing a line of food products to go with my cookbook. It is so fulfilling to pursue a dream with a passion!

I love to do Hawaiian Quilting, & Hand-painting on t-shirts. I plan to create DVDs of a craft series to go with small books. I have painted on tees for over 25 years and have taught teens and adults how to paint. They love it! It is fun and healing for the body, mind, soul & spirit. When creativity flows we feel alive, energized by the excitement overflowing from us. We also experience relaxation because we let ourselves go! It is my goal to get young people interested in gardening & cooking & sewing so they can develop passions of their own. Life is great when we slow down and enjoy the simple things and find beauty in everyday life. http://www.amaryllisofhawaii.com

Birds Love A Good Bird Bath

Writen by Morgan Hamilton

In case you like birds you must know that there is nothing more welcoming to the feathered creatures than a bird bath. That nice installation filled with clean, fresh water will be like an oasis for the neighborhood birds. And if you decide to make one, your kindness will be fully repaid by the daily visits of our entertaining and delightful flying friends. Just watching a bird bathing is quite a pleasurable and repaying experience itself.

Of course people may decide to build such a place for people too, but in fact a nice bird bath can simultaneously be the perfect garden accessory and service a good purpose. And if you manage to choose the right style to design it in, you'll definitely improve your garden setting. In the end you'll have something for all to enjoy – both birds and people.

A bird bath is the perfect device for bird watchers to use for attracting birds. Taking the time to create such bath is always rewarded by the view it offers afterwards. It gives the birdwatchers the possibility for a close proximity watching, and most of them guarantee that you can in fact attract more birds with a bird bath than with seeds.

This is absolutely true, because bird feeders, wonderful in my opinion, still do attract only seed-eaters and that's why the species that gather around them are much more limited. From time to time you can spot a finch or a bright red cardinal, but you are more likely to find around always the same visitors – mostly blue jays and sparrows is what you you'll see hovering near the feeders.

There are lots of birds that prefer fruits and insects to the seeds. Although species like waxwings, wrens and catbirds won't offer a great variety to your garden, they can not be found anywhere around the seed feeders. That is the main difference between the two, and areas with bird baths are much more abundant in species than the seed feeders as not all birds do eat seeds, but all birds drink water.

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning gardening. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting Bird Bath

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Planting Trees For Harvesting Is It For You

Writen by Gabriel J. Adams

If you have a lot of extra land and don't know what to do with it, then let me suggest growing trees. With growing trees you can earn a small income without having to do much work. Sometimes if you're lucky the government will even help you pay or provide the trees as long as you keep them planted a certain amount of time.

Now let us look at the types of trees to plant. The most commonly used trees are pines. They are fast growing, fairly hardy, and have good wood. They also have a fairly good chance of surviving a controlled field burning.

To start off you should make sure your land can handle the trees. Check the soil for nutrients and see if there is any chance of flooding. Natural disasters ruin tons of crops every year and it's no different for tree harvesters. Another good thing to have is flat or only mildly hilly land. This will greatly help when it comes time to harvest the trees.

When you start to plant your trees plant them in long straight rows. You should plant them fairly close together without causing them to lose sunlight. As they grow you will need to start thinning out the trees so that some of them can grow bigger and taller.

Some people will also burn out the underbrush in a controlled fire. This helps clear below the canopy of trees and will help strengthen them.

You can figure on at least 15 years per harvest with periods in between where you thin trees and sell them off as wood or pulp. This is a long wait but it doesn't require much work and allows you to get that unused land earning income. You can also buy land with trees already on it and harvest them. This will help with the mortgage of the land and will get the land clear.

Check out our website for tree seeds + germination instructions.

Monday, July 21, 2008

The Plant Philanthropist

Writen by Kenneth C. Hoffman

One year after we moved into our new ranch-style home, the Merion Bluegrass lawn was growing well and the basic flower beds were mapped out. A new home doesn't need repairs, but a myriad of needs kept cropping up to soak up any available money. A trip to the local plant nursery put us in shock when we added up the cost of perennials, mulching and proper bricks for the borders. I would search the want ads for bargain lots of building materials, garden tools, mowers and fertilizer with much success. When people move, they don't want to weigh down the moving van with old tools and bags of fertilizer. They practically give them away.

The one thing people would never part with are their perennials. Plants and trees are quite visible to the new owners and they usually expect that they go with the house. My whole winter was spent browsing the catalogs for hosta, iris, roses, and especially day lilies. Available in mouth-watering shades, these new hybrid day lilies come in different heights and plant habit. Some are good for along a fence, other make good border plants, each clump doubling in size every year. Unlike the road side day lilies that grow to four feet tall, bloom only briefly, and send out root runners to take over the rest of the garden, the hybrids are garden friendly. Unfortunately, a grouping of three roots cost about eight dollars, sending the cost of the needed plants into the hundreds of dollars.

One day, in a conversation with a local nursery owner, he revealed the source of some of his day lilies. The farmer lived in a nearby town and grew day lilies for a living. Some intense research turned up his address and I paid him a visit. Presented with row upon row of cultivated day lilies in every imaginable shape and color, I drooled over owning just a few of them for our garden. I parted with all the money I had, fifteen dollars, and went home with three starter clumps. Before leaving, I took a few pictures of his fields and some individual blossoms he had self propagated. I later made a set for him to keep. One low growing beauty sported forty blooms on each stalk (opening one per day) in tones of deep ruby red. Another met the dawn in diamond dusted five-inch-wide flowers in ivory and shell pink, showing an apple green center. A third boasted four inch blooms in a true lemon yellow.

The following summer, I received a call from the farmer. He informed me that he had sold his farm land to a developer and had already bought ten acres twenty miles further west. He had removed all he needed to seed the new day lily farm but was forced to leave hundreds of mature plants. The bulldozers were slated to start preparing the land for the new development the following week and if I would like, I could help myself to any number of plants for my garden. I almost dropped the phone in excitement. Here was presented to me the most desirable flowering perennials I could dream of for our garden! Free!! I thanked him and spent the next three days digging, boxing, and transporting the day lilies. The next July Fourth we had a barbecue party in the back yard. Ringing the gentle curves of the brick borders bloomed forty varieties of hybrid day lilies, glorifying our new garden and warming our hearts.

Retired portrait photographer now lives in a townhouse.

A Guide To Vines And How To Vine Beauty With Your Garden

Writen by Khieng Chho

If you find yourself bored with the usual assortment of flowers and shrubs in your latest landscape design, maybe it's time to do a little experimenting by adding VINES to your garden.

Advantages of Having Vines In Your Garden Vines are often overlooked as a lovely complement to your garden. Not only do they bring additional and much needed color and enchantment to your yard but also extra shade, screen and shelter when you wish to spend a quiet afternoon reading your favorite fruit.

Vines make maximum use of the vertical space in your garden; a feature you'd no doubt welcome when you've used up every inch of space of the soil.

What's more, there are also a number of vines that can provide you with edible fruit, bringing your one garden one step closer to Eden-like perfection.

Lastly, vines can also become quite useful when there are areas where you wish to avoid deep roots from appearing. Vines can serve as ground cover and help prevent slopes in your garden from erosion.

Adding Arbors for Your Vines
More often than not, people tend to add an arbor or two in their gardens when they plan to include vines in their list of botanical and horticultural jewels. Although an arbor surrounded by vines is a clichéd symbol, nobody can still deny its picturesque charm.

If you're of the same mind as well, just make sure that you choose rustic looking wood – painted, stained or treated – for your arbor. Keep in mind the maintenance costs as well when you're out for an arbor entryway for your garden.

The arbor must suit not only your personality and garden but also the color and structure of your vines as well. Since most vines are fast-growing, expect your arbor to be fully encased in vines in a year or two.

When the Vine Twines
Twiners - These are the type of vines that possess very flexible stems which twine around a support – an arbor or even a tree trunk, for instance – and examples of these would be wisteria, morning glory vine and hyacinth bean.

Root Attachment – These are the types of vines that attach its self – rather than twine – to walls, posts, roots or any adhesive disc for support. Examples of these would be the well-known English ivy and a number of forms of Virginia creeper.

Tendril – There are some vines that have modified stems or leaves that wrap themselves on supports; examples of these would be the popular passion flower – also known as clematis - and sweet pea vines.

Leaners – These vines do not possess any built-in structure that could use another object or plant for support; for that reason, these vines would have to be either tied to or woven through arbors, posts or any other structure. The best example of this type of vine is climbing roses.

Another Classification of Vines
Perennial – Example of perennial vines would be wisteria, Carolina Jessamine, gold honeysuckle and climbing roses. Annual – Example of annual vines would be moon vine and morning glory

Other Tips
When you're selecting the types of vines you wish to weave through your garden as enhancement, make sure that it's really something you wish to do. Vines after all take a long time – a few years more or less – to grow and establish and would look quite awkward in their early stages. It would be such a pity if you cut them off when you find yourself impatient with their slow growth.

Lastly, keep in mind that some vines are naturally heavier than others and would need a sturdier type of support for better growth and easier maintenance.

Khieng 'Ken' Chho - Online Vine Resources. For more, visit Ken's website: http://vines.wicwoc.com/

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Tomatoes Apples Of Love

Writen by Gwen Stewart

Native to the Andean region of South American and under cultivation in Peru in the sixteenth century, tomatoes (Lycopersicum esculentum) have been grown for thousands of years. The Spanish introduced them to the European cultures. Europeans were not open to trying tomatoes until the end of the sixteenth century, as tomatoes, being part of the nightshade family, were considered poisonous. Later, the French tried them and began to call them "pommes d'amour", apples of love. They felt that tomatoes carried aphrodisiac qualities. It wasn't until the 1900's when the tomato gained popularity in North America.

Scientific research shows the health benefits from this tasty fruit. In recent years, researchers discovered that tomatoes were natural sources of the element lycopene. This antioxidant has been shown in tests to dramatically reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and many cancers, including prostate and colon cancers. Tomatoes are an excellent source of phytochemicals, nutrients, fiber, and contain practically no fat or sodium. They are significant sources of vitamins A, B, and C and a source of iron and potassium. In fact, one medium-sized tomato provides 20 percent of the daily-recommended value of vitamin A and 40 percent of the daily-recommended value of vitamin C.

How To Grow

Tomatoes are very easy to grow from seed. In all, there are more than 100 types of tomatoes to choose from. Though most people believe ripe tomatoes are red, they actually come in many colours, including green, yellow, purple -- even striped. Unless you grow your own, you will not have the opportunity to experience the many varieties. If you don't have the time, buy tomato plants from garden centres. Look for different varieties as they are becoming more readily available from growers.

Six to eight weeks before transplanting, start tomato seeds by filling a seedling flat with a good quality seedling mixture. Use an excellent quality potting soil from the garden centre to make sure the soil is sterilized and has a high percentage of sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Don't use garden soil, as it tends to become hard and inhibits proper rooting of seedlings, and it may contain insects, disease, weed seeds, or chemical residue.

Sow seeds no deeper than the thickness of the seed: sprinkle the seeds onto the soil-filled flat and press them down gently. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of fine, horticultural-grade vermiculite to prevent drying. Water just enough to moisten the soil with a fine mist spray such as the sprayer on the kitchen sink or a mister bottle. Keep the seeds evenly moist to ensure the mixture never dries out as both germinating seeds and seedlings are very intolerant of dry soil and will die if they are dry for even a short time. Cover the flat or pot with plastic wrap or a clear plastic bag. Remove the plastic as soon as seedlings emerge.

Tag each container with the date planted and the tomato variety. To promote rapid germination, place the flat on a heated table, top of the refrigerator, or a heat register. Once they germinate and seedlings begin to appear, move them from the heat source into a location with lots of light. They need very high light levels to grow properly: a south-facing window without blinds or curtains is ideal. Use grow lights to enhance growth. Hang the lights 6 inches (15 cm) from plants and leave lights on for 14 hours a day.

Transplant the seedlings into larger, individual containers once the first 'true' leaves appear. After transplanting, fertilise once a week with a plant-starter fertilizer such as 10-52-10 at ¼ strength. As an organic gardener, I do not use commercial fertilizer, only fish fertilizer on my transplants. They are strong, healthy plants and are fed weekly until moved outdoors. Harden-off and plant them very deeply where the stems will develop roots helping the plant become established.

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need ample quantities of compost or decomposed manure. Mulch and water in dry weather to maintain soil moisture and stave off wilt disease and blossom-end rot. Blossom-end rot is caused by water stress or calcium deficiency. Watering regularly and evenly is the key to preventing blossom-end rot. Never water tomatoes from the top. Water tomatoes from below and water deeply.

In the garden, tomatoes are compatible with chives, onion, parsley, marigold, nasturtium, and carrot. Tomatoes and all members of the Brassica family repel each other and should be kept apart. Plant garlic between tomato plants to protect them from red spider mites. Tomatoes will protect roses against black spot. To make a spray for roses, place tomato leaves in your vegetable juicer, add 4 or 5 pints of water and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Strain and spray on roses when it is not convenient to plant tomatoes as companions. Label and keep any unused spray in the refrigerator.

In the kitchen, tomatoes can be used for salads, soups, juices, sauces, stews, baked dishes, sandwiches, stuffed, grilled, broiled, pasta dishes, and salsa. They combine well with meat, fish, poultry, pasta, rice, as well as other vegetables. Store tomatoes at room temperature. To ripen green tomatoes, place in a brown paper bag with an apple at room temperature for several days. If fresh tomatoes aren't available, use canned tomatoes or canned tomato juice, which are fine substitutes.

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Chores. She owns the website Gwen's Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the book and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2006. All rights reserved.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Enhance Your Garden With Beautiful Edging

Writen by David Chandler

Adding edging around your garden or landscape is as important as the garden itself. The edging frames your garden much like a picture frame. A picture can be interesting and beautiful but it needs a frame to enhance its appearance, so it is with your garden.

There are various types of garden edgings. Many people prefer to use something heavy and permanent, like a low brick wall, or rocks set together with mortar. However, not everyone is physically capable of creating such a structure.

Bricks set freely can be just as effective. They can be placed in a simple line, end to end, or stacked in a double row, with gaps in between. They can also be set diagonally, leaning against each other for support.

Another attractive alternative is to decorate short lengths of board with old tiles. Tiles can often be purchased very cheaply from re-recycling places. Glue your choice of tile along the board using outdoor glue. On each end of the board, tack a peg with one end pointed. This will be used to push into the soil to support your board and keep it off the ground.

Bush rocks can also be used to give your garden that finished look. They need not be too big, unless you have plenty of muscle or help. You may be able to gather rocks from a friend's farm, or from the bush if that is legal in your area. Otherwise, garden suppliers usually have plenty to choose from.

How about flowering plants or shrubbery to create a living border. Choose a plant that will be suitable for your climate and conditions. The pretty pink of alpine phlox is an attractive border and the plants can be divided and planted again and again. Many other plants can be propagated in this way, thus reducing the initial costs. Of course, your border will take a little more time to get established than if you bought all the necessary plants at once.

Gazanias are another hardy border plant that can be divided many times. Bulbs might seem like a good choice too, but remember that they will die down and leave your borders looking messy for ages. In addition, they remain dormant for at least six months, so if you plant anything else there you risk damaging the bulbs. Of course, you can dig them up and replace them with something else, but you may prefer a more permanent border edge to save on the workload.

If you have a larger garden, comfrey is a plant to consider using for an edging plant. Its thick growth habit will prevent any grasses intruding into the garden, and the leaves can be pulled for excellent mulch around roses or other plants. It has delightful, dainty flowers in season too. However, a small garden could be overwhelmed by more than one comfrey plant.

In a small garden attractive annuals like sweet alice, pansies, violas or petunias make great borders. For something a bit different, try an herb border. Then you can go out and pick your herbs any time you want. Chives have a crisp green color that would make your garden sparkle while strawberries will entice the kids out into the fresh air to have a healthy snack.

Some people prefer to simply bevel an edge around their garden with the shovel. This is a good option if your lawn has the sort of grass with runners, like kikuyu. Those runners can be kept under control by chopping them off every so often with the edge of the shovel.

Whatever option you choose, it will enhance your garden to have a beautiful edging. For more ideas on creating a border for your garden, visit the links at the bottom of the page.

For more information, visit these sites: The Garden Info Center and The Garden Design Guide

David Chandler, The Stock Market Genie

For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: "What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!" go to: The Stock Market Genie

Hydroponics Gardening An Introduction To Hydroponics Gardening For Beginners Part 18 Gray Mould

Writen by John R. Haughton

IS YOUR MOULD UNDER CONTROL?

Gray Mould (Botrytis blight)

This common fungus infects leaves, rhizomes, stems, flowers, and seedlings of many plants. The disease thrives on mild, moist conditions and often survives on infected plant debris. The fungus which causes the disease is Botrytis cinerea and it is known to infect large numbers of differing plant species, but is a serious problem in only a small number of them.

Botrytis blight can be a problem in greenhouses where the humidity is high and the temperature moderate. It attacks tomatoes, as well as cucumbers and other fleshy plants, and fruits such as strawberries and raspberries.

Botrytis blight can affect plants in various of ways. It may cause collapse of seedlings, blossom blight, fruit rot, stem and crown rot, or shoot blight. The first symptom is usually the appearance of water-soaked lesions. This is followed by tissues becoming soft and watery. The affected parts of the plant then wilt and collapse.

If the humidity remains high, the infected area quickly becomes covered with a gray-brown mass of fungus and spores. Lots of spores are produced and these are easily blown or splashed onto healthy foliage. If there is moisture present and other conditions are favorable, germination and infection can take place in as little as a few hours.

Varying in size up to 1/4 inch, flattened, black, Sclerotia may be produced on fleshy parts of stems and fruits. These structures allow the fungus to survive when conditions are not favorable for growth. The Sclerotia are not always easy to see as they may be embedded in decayed tissue or coated with soil and other debris.

The spores need a film of moisture in order to germinate and infect plants. This is why gray mold thrives in humid and moderate conditions. In greenhouses, good ventilation will help to control gray mold. The use of a small fan to improve air circulation will also help to keep this problem at bay.

The fungus thrives on plant debris and detritus, so cleanliness and sanitation is an essential part of gray mold control. Fallen leaves and dead plants, as well as any extraneous plant material, should be removed from the greenhouse and burned. This will greatly reduce the amount of infectious material available, and so limit the fungal spread.

In the event of a bad outbreak of Gray Mould it may be necessary to resort to some form of chemical treatment. There are a lot of suitable fungicides available through your local garden center, so ask for advice as to the best one for the particular crop you are growing.

A partner in a thriving retail hydroponics supply business, Rickie Haughton is the owner of http://www.hydroponics-gardening-information.com Your First Choice For Hydroponics Gardening Information, the Hydroponics-Gardening-Information website is packed with good content about all aspects of hydroponics gardening and offers a free Hydroponics Gardening Information Club membership to all subscribers.

Copyright (C) 2004, 2005, 2006, John R Haughton - All Rights Reserved

Friday, July 18, 2008

Outdoor Furniture Cushion Replacement Redesign Your Outdoor Space

Writen by Jennifer Akre

Cushions play an important part in adding comfort to your outdoor teak furniture. The better the cushion, the better the comfort and feel of the furniture. With the coming of latest trends and styles, cushions do not only act as a soft padding but they add fashion, style and color to your regular furniture. According to the surroundings and ambiance of your lawn, comfy, colorful cushions can be a perfect addition to your furniture to help brighten up the place.

For all those who want to give their outdoor teak furniture a unique and fabulous look, they must opt for outdoor furniture cushion replacement. Replacing cushion would not only lend it a new and attractive look but also make your old furniture as good as new.

Cushions also play a vital role in providing solidarity and durability to the furniture and also enhance the comfort level by keeping the body relaxed and in better posture while using the furniture. Well cushioned furniture can help in overcoming any sort of stress or strain from the otherwise hard and heavy wooden furniture.

Outdoor teak furniture with cushions are famous among homeowners as well as those living in apartments, who prefer to remain outside most of the time during summer days. One can easily find a wide variety of colorful, durable and comfortable cushions with all shapes and sizes to go with your outdoor teak furniture, according to your choice of style, design and price.

Different climatic conditions play a critical role in choosing the form of cushion replacement. If you are living in a place where the climate is tropical one, wicker ware is more suitable for you. You can find a number of airy, light colored outdoor teak furniture cushions, which are available in various colors. You can purchase such cushions for other furnishings such as couches, chairs, daybeds, end tables, etc.

There is a wide variety of outdoor teak furniture cushions that are completely weatherproof and, therefore, can resist wind, rain and humidity quite easily. Outdoor furnishing is most suitable for those who are living in such an area where the climate generally remains rainy.

Outdoor teak furniture covers can be purchased as well, matching the color of a deck or pool side set. Covers can be found separately for those who decide they want to provide added protection to their already purchased set of furnishings. For whatever the need or reason, covers are always a smart investment because they can add years to the life of outdoor furniture.

Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous niche home decor and patio furniture websites, makes it easy to find quality Unique Teak Patio Furniture and Timeless Teak Benches. A symbol of luxury and affluence. Rich quality and classic aesthetic. These are a few reasons teak furniture is the ideal choice for outdoor furniture and remains a sound investment. You deserve it - Click to enjoy: http://www.morethanteak.com.

Home For A Gnome

Writen by Debbie Rodgers

Kitsch is defined by several dictionaries as relating to poor quality or gaudy art objects that appeal to "low-brow" taste. But in the garden, kitsch categorizes folksy or commercial art that's viewed condescendingly by some, and with irony by others. It's this irony (this stuff is so bad it's good) that has made items such as pink flamingos and garden gnomes more widely popular in recent years.

Garden gnomes have long been popular in Europe, especially in the middle European countries of Germany, Austria and Czechoslovakia. In fact, the city of Usti nad Labem in the Czech Republic has declared 2004 to be the Year of the Gnome.

Worldwide popularity of these dwarvish creatures was given a boost after the release of the French film Amelie in 2001. The title character in that movie, frustrated by her father's refusal to travel in his retirement, abducts his garden gnome and sends it around the world with a flight attendant friend.

But from where did these garden creatures spring? The word "gnome" comes from the same root word as the verb "to know."

It is thought that gnomes were named by Paracelsus, a 16th century physician and alchemist. Paracelsus authored a theory of the elements that included the belief that gnomes had occult knowledge of the earth.

From that theory sprang folklore tales that established a mythical society for gnomes. People said that gnomes expressed greetings, farewells and goodnights by rubbing noses. They developed stories that the creatures lived to 400 years, with the male gnomes greying very early in life and indulging in pipe-smoking.

Gnomes were divided by folklore into different types, with the house gnome and the garden gnome being the most represented. People believed that gnomes were a good luck charm, a symbol that the forces of nature were on their side. In parts of Europe, statues of garden gnomes have been, and still are, considered status symbols of success.

So much have gnomes captured the popular imagination, that in July 2003 Australia saw "Take your garden gnome to work" day, and recently the BBC urged listeners to hunt out "gnome-infested" gardens in central England. Although tongue-in-cheek, the BBC's disclaimer to take no risks because they "believe (gnomes) are still a potential source of harm" carries on the folklore legends.

In addition, several gnome "liberation" groups profess to free the statues from enslavement in gardens across America and Europe.

According to legend, house and garden gnomes help with chores around the home, like sweeping the floor or planting. This is the reason many statues of gnomes hold hammers, axes or shovels, or are pushing wheelbarrows.

Many contemporary statues depict gnomes sunbathing, swinging and otherwise relaxing. Several modern artists have specialized in creating statues and painting of gnomes, and many people are avid collectors. Others have opted out of the gnome movement, based on the gnomes' legendary association to spirits and the occult.

Will there be a gnome in your garden?

About The Author

Debbie Rodgers owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Visit her on the web at http://www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on "Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space". Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com

Thursday, July 17, 2008

New York Flower District

Writen by Kent Pinkerton

New York flower districts have a large concentration of wholesale and retail florists in New York City. The district is a small stretch from the streets of 26th to 29th along and off Sixth Avenue. It is considered to be a virtual oasis of beauty in the middle of Manhattan. Any kind of selection of plant and flowers can be found or ordered through the vendors here at the New York Flower District.

New York flower districts have decreased considerably over the years. New Yorkers used to buy flowers for every holiday, especially Easter. Millions of flowers and some of the rare species are sold annually in the wholesale flower market in the vicinity between Sixth and Seventh Avenues from 23rd to 26th Streets.

One of the New York flower districts is the Garden District. Teleflora provides you information on the local florists in your city. It also ensures the quality and the freshness of the floral arrangements. These arrangements are made by a New York professional, giving your floral gift its deserved attention.

Capital District flowers are considered to be one of the major events of the New York flower districts. The Annual Capital District Flower and Garden Show is one of the major events. It benefits the Wildwood program. The participation of different vendors, attractive garden landscape displays, workshops, and demonstrations are a few highlights of this event.

Chelsea Garden Center is a popular flower district, with an indoor and an outdoor market. It has one of the best all around selections of plants and flowers available. Sometimes you don't even need to be buying to get a rush from the city's shopping. Walking down 28th Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues, one can see piles of roses furled tight on the sidewalks along the banks of orchids. It is considered to be the heart of the wholesale flower district.

New York Flowers provides detailed information on New York Flower Delivery, New York Flower District, New York Flower Market, New York Flower Shops and more. New York Flowers is affiliated with Thanksgiving Flower Gifts.

New York Flower Delivery

Writen by Kent Pinkerton

Flower delivery in New York City is known for its skill and quality. It can be done only by a few experienced florists. New York flower delivery consists of different shops in which you can order the flowers to be delivered. The flowers can be sent by ordering in various ranges of prices.

New York flower delivery can be done by simply ordering the flowers from the florists. Many florists in New York City provide you interactive service for your convenience. It is done online just by entering their respective websites and comparing the different price ranges for the different floral arrangements. The price depends on the flower and the arrangement. In general, the price range starts from as low as $20 to $25 for a well made bouquet for your loved ones.

Florists see to your satisfaction from the quality of the flowers, any accompanying gift, where the package needs to go, and an appearance that is just the way you imagine. New York flower delivery offers you reliable and the quick service. The florists provide you fresh floral arrangements in a wide range of choices.

New York flower delivery companies also provide international delivery. Albany, Binghamton, Bronx, Rochester, and Elmira are few of the major New York flower delivery areas. Studio Arts Florist is a company that has been delivering flowers for the past 50 years, with floral arrangements done by the top designers in the industry. Floral arrangements are delivered with reasonable price categories, to maximize effective service and delivery.

Most of the leading florists come with many attractive choices, like free delivery services and same day delivery. One can afford these floral arrangements and can order flower delivery for many different occasions. New York Flower delivery offers you various assurances for price, freshness, and service.

New York Flowers provides detailed information on New York Flower Delivery, New York Flower District, New York Flower Market, New York Flower Shops and more. New York Flowers is affiliated with Thanksgiving Flower Gifts.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Paths Paving Patios

Writen by Donnie Graham

Nowadays, a lot of newly built houses do not come with proper paths, due to the steep rise in building costs, but it's worth considering that nicely constructed ones can add value to the property. This applies to older houses as well—in this case, it might be a good idea to have a look around builders' merchants for slabs that match your walls—they usually have a varied selection. Even if you aren't thinking of selling in the near future, a well-constructed path will greatly improve the overall appearance.

It's best to do something like this in dry weather. You will need a spade, pickaxe, pegs, string, spirit level, 2m (6ft) length of wood (straightedge) for checking your levels, rake, brush, wheelbarrow, club hammer or rubber mallet, bolster, and a brickie's trowel. You might want to use an angle-grinder and a slab-splitter, both of which can be hired cheaply. Square slabs can be obtained in sizes ranging from 200mm (8in) to 600mm (24in), and you can also get other shapes, such as oblong or hexagonal. For lightweight paths, sharp sand is the best kind to use—your builders' merchant should be able to advise you.

Possibly, if you're anything like me, you'll want to see the results of your handiwork as soon as possible, but I'd advise a bit of patience. The secret to good paving is to make sure that you have a good, even, firm foundation. If not, the finished job will not just look untidy, but will also be a danger to anyone walking on it.

Mark out the area that you're going to pave with the pegs and string, and dig out at least 150mm (6in) of the soil. Remove the string, and check with your level and straightedge that what you have excavated slopes slightly away from the house—maybe a gradient of about 1:50. This of course is for any water to flow away from the house. In a situation where the path has to slope towards the house, leave a strip of gravel or chips 150mm (6in) alongside the wall so that the water can drain away. If a path is right up against a wall, remember that it must be at least 150mm (6in) below the damp-proofing course.

Lay a good base of hardcore (broken bricks, quarry chips, or concrete) in the trench, and press it down well, trying to keep it fairly even. Cover it with sharp sand, using the rake; use a straight length of wood to keep it even, not forgetting to use the spirit level to make sure that you keep the slight slope in it. When you begin laying the slabs, it's a good idea to use ply spacers between them, in order to have the same size gap for filling. Tamp the slabs down with the rubber mallet or what I use, my club hammer and a block of wood. Make sure there's no movement in the slab—if there is, lift it, identify the problem, fix it, and lay the slab again. Brush sand over your completed path, and work it well into the joints. You will probably have to do this a few times to make sure that the gaps are completely filled.

If you have to cut slabs you can do it using any of the following methods. If it's a good, compressed stone chip slab, a hammer and bolster is good enough for the task. Mark a line where you need to cut it. Chip lightly along the line with the bolster a few times, not being too heavy with the hammer! You will eventually find that it splits, hopefully exactly where you wanted it to. A slab-splitter can be hired if you have a few to cut. An angle grinder is the best option if you have to shape slabs around any obstacles. You have to be careful with this tool, as it can be very dangerous. Whenever you are cutting slabs, be sure to wear goggles, gloves, and a dust mask.

If you're going to cover a large area, such as a patio, make sure that you think and plan well ahead. You could look up garden landscaping sites on the internet, print some of them, compare, and develop a plan of your own from there. There's a huge choice of paving materials nowadays, so it's a wise move to consider what would work best for you. If you're new to the game, it's best to stick to a simple pattern, such as a regular grid—square slabs with the corners of 4 slabs meeting each other, a running bond—the joints are staggered halfway to look something like brickwork, and a herringbone design—made with rectangular pavers or slabs. If you feel more confident, you could attempt a random pattern, which is constructed using broken stones, slabs, or slates. This will take more time, and patience! If you have awkward shapes between slabs, you could use gravel or small quarry chips to fill in those areas, although they have a tendency to get scattered after a while. With large paved areas, it's probably best to hire a plate vibrator for a few hours, as it makes a better job of levelling the pavers, and gets the sand to settle much more tightly between the joints.

Important Factors To Consider When Buying A Power Washer

Writen by Bill Harden

Choosing and deciding which power washer to buy can be a tedious task if you don't know exactly what to look for in a power washer. There are so many sizes of power washer from various companies and if you purchase one which is not powerful enough for your needs, it will going to be a waste of time and money. Likewise if you buy a power washer that is too powerful and it damaged the surfaces you cleaned.

Here are some important factors to consider that will help you on choosing the best power washer. By getting the right power washer, you do not only avoid any damage but you save time and money as well.

Pressure

This factor is the first thing to consider since this determines the work value of the power washer. Pressure is measured in pounds per square inch and this determines how the power washer effectively breaks the bonds of the debris on the surface being cleaned.

Water Flow

Just like pressure, water flow determines the power washer's work value. This is also known as water volume which is measured in gallons per minute or litres per minute and the amount of water being thrown at the surface being cleaned. The water flow of the power washer affects the time it takes to clean a surface. A power washer with a higher flow rate will take less time to clean than a power washer with a lower flow unit.

Frequency of Usage

After you decide on how much power and water flow your power washer should have to get your job done, you should consider how often you would be using it. If you are a residential user of power washer, you will probably use it far less often than if you use it for agricultural or commercial purpose.

Quality of Parts Used

Some power washer manufacturers use the cheapest parts available so that they can sell their units also at a lower price. They would even treat these units as "throw away" meaning as soon as there is problem with the unit. You can just throw it away and purchase a new one. So it is always best to check the quality of the parts of the power washer that you will purchase, the higher the quality, the better. Here are some of the parts that you should look into:

· Motor
· Pumps
· Unloaders
· Valves
· Plungers
· Gun and Hose
· Accessories

Repair and Maintenance

While it is imperative that you purchase a power washer that is made of quality parts, it is also necessary that the supplier of the power washer that you would buy would have a good repair and maintenance program. Remember that no matter how well made a unit is, there is always a possibility that something could go wrong with it, thus repair is needed. It is better if you purchase from a company that offers replacement parts and can make repairs to your unit within a reasonable time frame.

By simply following the guidelines above, you can be confident that the power washer that you will purchase will sure meet your needs. And with these factors to consider at hand, buying a power washer that will operate properly and last longer will not be a difficult task at all.

Bill Harden is a freelance writer and building contractor! Visit the Powerwashing expert for more tips and ideas on your improving your home and business.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Dogs And Gardens 10 Tips For Enjoying Your Dog And Your Garden Too

Writen by Yvonne Cunnington

For as long as I've been gardening, I have shared my love of the outdoors with one-of-a-kind dogs ("mutts" to most people). I certainly can't imagine gardening without a dog keeping me company. Here are some tips to help you make this work for you too.

Set the ground rules first

  • Be clear about how you want your dog to behave in the garden. Set the ground rules for your dog from the start. As with people, pet habits, once established, can be a challenge to change.

  • Remember that bored dogs are most likely to get into trouble, so use walks and games to use up excess energy that might otherwise go into destructive garden behavior. (Your dog burns calories this way, and so do you!)

  • Decide where your dog is allowed to go and where you don't want him to go.

  • Be consistent. It doesn't help if you let the dog do what he wants when the flowerbed is weedy, but then expect him to respect the garden when it's all tidied up.

Dogs and gardens - training tips

Dogs like to be where people are, so when you're in the garden, take your dog with you for at least part of the time, and when you're not, keep your dog with you indoors.

  • When you're with your dog, you have lots of opportunities to encourage and train behavior you like and discourage actvities that are destructive to the garden.

  • To keep dogs out of flowerbeds, use a verbal cue such as "out of the garden." This works best if you're actually in the garden with your dog.

  • It may be expensive, but a fenced yard is a godsend for dogs and gardens.

  • Some people use invisible fencing – a system that delivers an electronic shock via a receiver in a special dog collar. Actual fences are more effective because they both keep your dog in the yard and other animals out. As well, your dog can't escape, ignoring the electrical shock when chasing a squirrel, for example, and then getting shocked when trying to get back into the yard.

Garden safety and your dog

When you have dogs or other pets spending time in the garden, choose alternatives to chemical lawn and garden care.

  • If you use pest control products, even organic ones, keep pets out of the garden when you're applying them.

  • Keep your dog away from treated areas for as long as recommended, usually until the treated area is dry or 24 hours.

Yvonne Cunnington is an avid gardener and dog lover. For more information about which garden chemicals you must keep away from your pet dog, see http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/Dogs-and-gardens.html | If you have problems with dogs and lawns, visit http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/dogs-and-lawns.html | For pet-friendly garden design ideas, see http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/Pet-friendly-garden.html

Transform Your Garden With A Wooden Playhouse

Writen by David Smithson

To create a perfect play place, start with a generic square playhouse (plans are easy to find online) or a pre-fabricated shed, available from most home improvement stores. Customize it with some paint, a few fancy features and a little imagination. Don't forget to have a ribbon cutting ceremony and a proper transfer of keys.

For the actor or actress, you can create a stage to keep their attention for hours. Add a marquee out front, a ticket window and numbered bench seats that wrap around an elevated stage. Don't forget to add storage for those all-important props, a changing area for your star and a curtained puppet stage.

Is there a knight or maiden in your kingdom? Then you need a castle. Start with a generic square playhouse and build on a tower, complete with rising staircase. You'll need a window for Rumpelstiltskin and climbing wall up to the window. Interior decorating should be rustic with a plain wooden table and crate chairs. Top off your castle with a kid-designed crest and flags.

Princesses will adore having a Tudor style home just their size in their backyard. To your square playhouse, you'll add window boxes for planting real or plastic flowers. Find or make a double Dutch door and install a few shutter framed operable windows to let in some light. Put up floral wallpaper or sponge paint with sweet pastel paints stenciled with hearts. Add a loft accessible by ladder and your princess will be in heaven.

Do you know an aspiring fireman or firewoman? Paint your box red, install double doors for easy "fire truck" access, a proper firehouse bell and a hose. Install a pole leading from the loft to the floor so your little firefighter can slide down, uniform up and rush out to fight fires. Don't forget the firehouse mascot – a Dalmatian made of wood.

Forts are classic and still tons of fun. These are ideal if you're limited on space because forts are typically tall and narrow. Entry to the second story can be via ramp, ladder or even climbing wall. Sandboxes make great play places for short ground level surfaces. Or add a garden if your little one has a green thumb.

Tower play houses offer plenty of space for a swing, slide, pole or sandbox underneath since it stands on stilts. Try a rope ladder up to the platform or set it up next to a tree and nail wooden rungs to the trunk for a ladder.

You aren't limited to a themed play house, either. Consider these mini-home additions:

• Patios or porches

• Landscaping with dwarf trees

• Zip lines

• Balance boards

• Bridges

• Skylights and sun roofs

• Slides

• Kitchen features

• Battery operated door bells

• Milk crate chairs and climbing blocks

• Mailbox

• Curtains and blinds

• Chimneys

• Anything else your young one's heart desires.

In addition to providing hundreds of hours of glee and entertainment, outdoor play structures also add to the resale value of your home. While the investment of a do-it-yourself playhouse will usually come in reasonably cheap, it can add 75% of it's cost to the value of your home. You'll recover much of the cost and get to take with you all the fun memories a wooden play house will bring.

David Smithson writes for Jacksons Garden Supplies, a UK based company specialising in wooden playhouses, garden summer houses & concrete garages.

For more information visit Jacksons Garden Supplies.

Monday, July 14, 2008

Home Composting 10 Ways To Make It Successful For You

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Gardening is a fun and invigorating activity. It keeps one busy and productive and brings the creativity and ingenuity in everyone. Gardening beautifies our homes but it also produces a good deal of yard waste. What better way to make this waste wok out for you than to use it to enrich your garden through composting? You'd be making your soil more fertile for the health of your plants and at the same time, you'd be helping you community dispose of waste in the cleanest, cheapest and easiest manner. Here are some simple ways to make home composting successful for you:

1. Select the best compost material. Composting is simply simulating, if not imitatinag nature's natural process of breaking down dead matter and using it to replenish the soil's nutrients. The best source would obviously be your own yard waste such as the dried leaves, straw and wood chips from your own vegetation. Experts recommend using "browns" and "greens". Browns are rich in carbon while greens are rich in nitrogen.

2. Correct combination of compost materials. To make home composting successful, it is better to combine different compost materials that to use just one type. Combine some of the materials mentioned in the above tip and shred them into small pieces to make them easier to store in case you might want to pile them later.

3. Use of manure can also mean successful home composting. Manure is also a rich source of organic materials and may come from a variety of animals such as chicken, ducks, pigs, sheep, cow and goats. They are rich sources of nitrogen which plants need in building up their tissues. It is best to layer this manure with dried leaves and to not simply add it into the pile s that it is effectively decomposed and incorporated into the compost.

4. Cold composting. Cold composting is easy enough to do which involves piling all the materials you have chosen as compost materials. Put them up in a pile and give them time to decompose, after months or a year, you'd have a rich compost from the decomposition of these materials.

5. Hot composting is more systematic and laborious than cold composting but it works. The pile should be at least 3- feet deep and is made up of alternating materials. Water is sprinkled regularly on the pile keep it most for microbial growth and action. Once in a while, you may mix the pile to expose the lower layers to oxygen and promote further decomposition of organic matter. This should generate some heat in the compost as gases are produced with the breakdown of organic matter.

6. Stink management is also a key to successful home composting. If the pile is not aerated enough, it begins to give off a bad odor. To resolve this problem, turn and mix the pile once in a while. Do not allow your compost pile to simply stink up.

7. Keep moisture level up but not too much. Adding too much water will waterlog your microorganisms which will not be good for them too and will inhibit their decomposing activities.

8. If the pile is dry and is not heating up, one has to do the entire pile all over again and this time cut the materials into smaller pieces. Add enough water also to make the entire pile moist to stimulate microbial activity.

9. No matter how you are promoting the decomposition of organic waste, you compost should not be a breeding ground for flies and ants that can be sources of diseases and may hard your plants in the long run. Another key to successful home composting is management of these insects by covering the pile with dirt. It does not do if these insects would proliferate in your compost because they may do more harm than your compost may do you good.

10. For a successful home composting, keep your compost pile within your yard. It should be contained within a particular space so it does not look like a dumpsite of some sort. Building a simple fence may do the trick. Your enclosure should also allow some air to get in through the sides.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com where you can learn what you need to know about gardening and landscaping from growing beautiful flowers to patio decor.

Deck Sealer

Writen by Jason Gluckman

Wood decks look great after they have been cleaned. Now wooden decks can be sealed with a clear sealer that does not let the wood turn gray. This synthetic resin sealer has no oils to allow algae and mildew to feed and grow on. Oil based sealants will seal a wooden deck. They will repel the water. They will also feed mildew and algae allowing the wooden deck to gray out and darken. Seal the wooden deck with an fortified sealer. It has no oil and penetrates deeply into the wood.

Wood decks built with CCA Treated lumber should be cleaned and sealed to keep the chemicals from washing out into the soil. Power washing can destroy a deck by shredding the soft wood on top. Oxygen bleach cleaners are non toxic and clean wood beautifully. Penetrating water repellants made of synthetic resins soak into the wood. These are not film forming sealers that will feed algae and mildew. Chlorine beach will damage all of the components of the wooden deck and it is toxic for the surrounding plants. Oxygen bleach is the way to clean for a beautiful finish that looks like a new deck. Always clean after stripping wood decks of old finishes.

Wood decks are also exposed to the harshest conditions of just about any other horizontal building material in your home. The wood that is laid flat to create the deck surface and handrails absorbs the full impact of the destructive u v rays during the middle part of the day. This same flat wood does not easily shed rainwater. Water can sit on the wood or in the worst cases, soak into unprotected wood via small or large cracks in the wood surface.

Decks provides detailed information on Deck Plans, Deck Builders, Pool Decks, Building A Deck and more. Decks is affiliated with Invisible Fences.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Drying Roses

Writen by Jan Nicholas

There are many reasons why you might want to dry your roses. Some people just want to keep a memento of a special moment. Perhaps they are a part of a wedding that you went to; maybe they were a gift from a mate, friend, or family member. Whatever your reasons for doing it, this is the section where you will learn to dry your roses properly.

There two ways drying rose petal can happen and that are cheap and relatively easy.

Air Drying

Air drying is by far the easiest and cheapest method of drying flowers including roses. It is simple; all you have to do is follow these simple instructions.

Start with perfect and unflawed roses on their stems. If the roses are not in perfect condition, they will wither and the petals will fall off.

Remove any leaves that may be on the branches.

Bunch them up together in a manner that lets them fan out. Tie the bottom with string or a rubber band.

Hang them upside down in a dark, dry place for two to three weeks to be certain that they are completely dry.

Sand Drying

Start by picking the roses that are in perfect condition. They shouldn't have any dew on them and the stems should be dry as well.

You can reinforce the stems and blossom with either white glue or florist wire.

For florist wire, you will want to cut off most of the stem. Leave about one inch of stem.

Push about 3 inches of wire through the stem and right through the flower head.

Next, you want to bend the end of the wire into a hook over each rose head and pull it down. This helps to keep the head secured to the stem.

When choosing to use the glue, begin by diluting the glue in a dab of water.

You will take a toothpick and dab a thin coat of the glue mixture at the base of each petal.

Next, you will work the glue into the base of the stems of each flower so that you can attach each petal to the base, wait till the glue dries completely

Now for the sand, slowly and carefully cover the flowers with sand in deep open boxes.

Make the sand in the box deep enough to hold the flowers upright.

Sit each flower in the sand filled box and slowly pour sand around the base, around the sides, and over and under the petals. You should pour the sand evenly so that you can preserve the flowers natural shape.

You will want to wait for the flowers to dry while facing upright.

Put the boxes with the roses in a dry space that is warm and brightly lit. This will ensure that your roses will maintain their bright color.

Let them dry for one to three weeks. If you want more muted colors, you will want to dry them in a more humid area.

To remove the sand, tip the drying container slightly so that the sand can fall off the flowers. Remove each flower one by one.

Now you have successfully learned how to dry your roses so that they are ready for you to do whatever you'd like with them. These dried flowers will make great decorations for any room in your house or office, or whatever else you'd like to do.

More gardening articles, information and tips at http://www.gardenarticles.com

Is Cedar Wood The Right Choice For Decking

Writen by Allison Thompson

In this article I will try to explain why red cedar wood is the ideal building material and why it is especially good as a material to use for decking.

Cedar is a really remarkable natural material because is can be used in so many different sorts of building products and seems to be especially good to use a decking timber. The softwood seems to lend some of its Pacific Northwest charm to the exteriors of many homes and offices and with its warm cinnamon tones that will age gracefully over time to a seasoned silver colour. Although it is attractive and has a lot of rustic charm, it has many natural properties that provide it with a built in resistance to both attack by the elements and by insects. Because of this cedar wood has become one of the more popular choices when people are planning to add a decking area to their property. Red Cedar in particular is not only robust but is durable and a visually striking material which will add value to any exterior of a property.

The Red Cedar is a native species found in the costal regions of the Pacific Northwest and is now used not just for decking part for many other building products also. The wood itself is naturally imbued with a high resistance to UV rays, moisture and damage by insects because of certain chemicals in it which protect it from degeneration, and this is the reason why this species has survived in an environment heavy in moisture. Also these attributes are a key reason why the Red Cedar has been so heavily relied on by the Europeans who settled in the region for use as tools and building materials.

So with these strengths in mind you also need to remember that because Red Cedar is a softwood is it very easy to work with. Not only its looks, but its natural protection against the elements and even the scent that is associated with it lends a warmth and general appeal that can easily be transplanted to your own garden when carrying out a decking project.

Not only does it have the benefits mentioned above which are ideal for using when building a deck, but it also does not contain many of the resins or pitch which are normally found in other sorts of wood. So when it comes to the time for applying a finish it is much easier and you have no need for any further protection against what the elements may throw at it. Cedar is in fact resilient enough to discourage the decking fastenings from corroding, a problem which can often lead to leeching of rust into other pressure treated decks. Not only is Cedar durable, but it is also lightweight and to add another level is not hard feat when building your deck. But once completed it will retain its natural feel and look that you will find reminiscent of the beautiful countryside of the Pacific Northwest, as well as the practical benefits such as heat insulation (this ensures that the decking will feel cooler when walking on it compared to many other wooden decks), it has great sound absorption and is very stable so it will be a structural benefit to the rest of your home.

Another benefit that Cedar wood provides is the colour range, which starts from an amber and goes up to a pinkish hue as it is taken from the heartwood of the tree. By the time the timber has been shipped and is ready to be used as decking lumber you will find that it has matured to a cinnamon (reddish-brown) colour. Then as it ages it will change colour yet again and this time turns a silvery grey colour, unless it has been stained. Now if you choose to stain it then the colour variations available to you become even greater.

Allison Thompson a work from home now living in Spain and is a partner in a small real estate firm. After working in this field for a number of years she decided to set up a number of sites relating to property matters and this one is related to decking and its benefits. If you would like to know more than please visit http://www.deck.householdfacts.info.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Beautiful Fresh Flowers Unders 30

Writen by Gerry Lewis

A trip to the florist may brighten the day of the recipient, but may empty your pocket book. How can you avoid being taken to the cleaners on your next trip to the florist? One factor that affects the price of a floral arrangement is its large variety of flowers. Some flowers are so exotic or difficult to grow that they simply come with a high price tag. Less expensive flowers can be very effective, however, and should not be overlooked as an option. One of the common florist choices that costs less is the carnation. In some cases, you can get twenty long stemmed carnations without a vase (as a flower bouquet) for under $30. Daisies are another of the less expensive florist choices and bring a spot of happy sunshine into a room. Proper care of flower arrangements, both at the florist and in the delivery vehicle, will help you get the best value from your floral dollars.

The first rule of cut flower care is to keep them refrigerated until they are to be used. The bouquet will not be as long lasting if it has been allowed to stand at room temperature for a great deal of time, such as at a roadside stand, before you get them. For the bouquet's trip to the vase, make certain you remove the leaves that would be under the level of the water. The leaves will decay if left on, and your whole bouquet will take on an unpleasant odor. Along the same line, change the water if it starts to look a little cloudy. Lukewarm water is best, and be sure to use the floral food included with the bouquet, it can be purchased for less than a dollar at the florist if not included with your arrangement. Stems should be cut at an angle to allow for them to be able to 'drink' best. Trimming the bottom inch of stem every day or two will also help your arrangements last longer. Choosing individual blossoms to arrange yourself is a way to save money at the florist shop. The Peruvian Lily(aelstroemeria) is long-lasting and available in a variety of bright colors, including oranges, pinks, and reds, but only costs about two dollars each. Cut tulips, a classic favorite, run about two dollars and fifty cents per long-stemmed bloom.

Another way to save at the florist shop is to ask about flowers that are starting to get a little bit old. In many cases a florist will discount these, and they will still give a few days of delight for a small price. This might be a way to enjoy one of the more exotic (read "expensive!) flowers for a few days.

For home decor, there are two inexpensive options. One is to grow your own flowering potted plants, and the other is to gather wildflower bouquets. These options save on costs at the florist. (In fact,fire the florist!) Of the flowering plants, African violets are well-known and consistent pleasers. They seem to thrive on neglect; blossoming out in multiple blooms when you least expect it. Some are so sparkly they glisten like sugar-coated candies. Others have a delicate white ruffle outlining each petal. Don't miss these beauties. Wildflower bouquets are very popular in country decorating. At certain times of year, daisies and various sunflowers can be found blanketing the countryside. Be sure to have the landowner's permission, or that the flowers are legal to pick before you make your own bouquet (There are endangered and protected varieties, just like animals!). Be your own florist by arranging these natural wonders in antique pitchers, old buckets, canning jars, or other country-style containers.

About the Author:

A great online resource for all floral and flower-arrangement issues. Check this out now ==>http://www.TheFloralTribute.com

Substitute For Popular Bonsai Species In Cold Climate

Writen by Patrick Desnoyers

Bonsai culture offers the greatest and most beautiful tree species on this planet. Since bonsai originate from asia, most likely from China and Japan, the most popular tree's are originating from this region.

Doing bonsai elsewhere in the world can be tricky. If your climate doesn't match the climate in Japan, you may not be able to grow successfully some of the most popular species. Your temperature range could be too cold in winter or too hot in summer. The best examples are the tropical species that cannot be grown year long in the northern climate unless you have the proper setup indoor or the winter could be too cold for hardy species.

Rest assure, nothing is lost. Many tree species originating from certain region or growing locally can be great substitute for a bonsai candidate. The most praised maple is without a doubt the trident maple. (Acer buergerianum) This specie is cold hardy to USDA zone 5 which is around minus 27 celsius. In Canada, the winters are getting harsher temperature. A great substitute would be the Amur maple (Acer Ginnala) which is cold hardy to USDA zone 2, minus 45 celsius. This species is a great replacement since it is very cold hardy, possesses small trilobed leaves and is a fast grower.

Other species liked from bonsai enthusiast are the Japanese pines. But, once again, cold can be a disadvantage. To the rescue comes the mugho pine. This pine will tolerate some very cold temperature plus it is a very tough plant tolerating many bonsai mistake. The mugho pine needles can be reduced much like the Japanese counterpart plus it displays a textured bark.

Another popular specie is the Chinese elm (ulmus parvifolia) but once again, cold is hard on this specie. For a replacement, the less known Siberian elm (ulmus pumila) can be as beautiful as the chinese one. Much like the Chinese elm, the Siberian elm as twiggy branching, grows fast and leaves are reducing well with proper technique.

Some others tree species are the American or tamarack larch (Larix Laricina) for an evergreen, the sargeant crabapple (malus sargentii) for a flowering and fruit producing tree or the European birch (betula pendula) for a broadleaf tree. These all displays beautiful characteristics. For instance, the American larch is the only evergreen to loose it's needles when fall show itself, the needles will turn from green to yellow for a few weeks before shedding. The sargeant crabapple will give you some nice white to pink flowers in spring and produce red fruit in autumn. The European birch as a nice white paperish bark that peel itself easily. Plus all these are moderate to fast growing tree that would yield a nice bonsai in a few years.

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Abatement Conflicts With Ecosystems

Writen by Lance Winslow

Often there are abatement conflicts with the eco-system that we do not learn for decades until we see cancer clusters in regions, which are so far out of the norm that we know something is wrong and then we trace it back to an environmental contaminant.

Generally such compounds and chemicals if used properly would never have caused and issue, but they were either miss-used by the abatement company, farmer or company. Perhaps they did not know, care or the spillage was unintentional. Thus whatever the reason the abatement procedure needed a round two. To abate the abatement material that was used or spilled you see.

In the end although the cancer clusters gave it away as a terrible wrong some 20-30 years ago there would also have been many other eco-system issues we may not have uncovered at the time such as the three legged frog syndrome or food chain collapse in the area.

Eventually Mother Nature has a way of cleaning things and everything will return to its proper balance yet we are much smarter than we were about things 2 or 3 decades ago and we can prevent much of this thru careful use of product and chemicals and by using special decision matrix protocols to minimize the negative affects and conflicts with the eco-system. Indeed we need to be thinking here in and considering this in 2006.

Lance Winslow

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Worms Use Worms To Make Good Quality Compost

Writen by Helen Downing

Using worms you can improve the performance of your compost bin, speed up the composting process, produce high quality nutrient rich compost, improve your garden soil and plants and help the environment! By using worms to break down your compost your plants and flowers will flourish! Worm composting has long been used in the United States and Australia as an effective and natural way of recycling kitchen and garden waste into rich organic compost or "black gold"

Worms eat kitchen and garden waste and turn it into "worm cast" a highly nutritious compost containing growth-promoting substances. This compost plays an essential role in feeding and maintaining the soil. Worms are so important that Charles Darwin called them "the most important animal in the history of the world". Unfortunately the overuse of insecticides and weed killers has discouraged our native earthworms.

Simply place the worms and the bedding they arrived in on the top of your compost bin and wait a few weeks. The worms will eat your waste and excrete it. What remains are very fine particles known as 'worm cast' This worm cast is highly nutritious for plants and flowers. It is also excellent for breaking up heavy clay soil

For further information on worm supplies contact www.leansmountworms.com

For inkjet cartridges contact www.directink.biz

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Tips For Ensuring The Safety Of All Ggardeners

Writen by Allison Thompson

Whether you happen to be green thumbed or you simply want to start gardening it is essential that you are prepared for any little surprises that may occur. You may want to create a beautifully landscaped lawn, or you might even want to grow some vegetables, or you could just want to surround your home with beautiful flowers. But whatever the situation you must keep in mind the following tips when you start any gardening project.

Firstly consider do you suffer from any pollen allergies. If you are like so many people nowadays you probably suffer from some type of allergy. This may affect you every day and during every season, but with all sufferers things can be even worse during the spring and summer months. This is because there is pollen in the air and everything will be in bloom and you may find it difficult to spend large amounts of time outdoors. So before you start any new project in the garden it is important that you consider whether you have any allergies or not and if you have to what extent do they affect you. If you find them be from moderate to severe it may be well worth avoiding working out doors.

The next thing to consider is whether you have an allergy to bee stings. More and more people are discovering that they are allergic to bee stings and in some cases there are people who require medication to help counteract the affect of a bee sting. Some people who have been stung by a bee will have problems with breathing and swallowing and some may have extensive swelling of the area around where the sting occurs, whilst others may have other problems that can be associated with bee stings. If you do get stung by a bee ensure that you remove the sting by flicking it out and not pinching hold of it to remove it (by pinching it you are actually injecting form the sting venom in to the entry site). It is during the later months of autumn that bees can be particularly dangerous and they should be avoided at all costs. If you find that you are allergic or that this type of allergy is common in your family then speak to your doctor about the best medicine to counteract this allergy before commencing any project in the garden.

Now we will look at the sort of clothes you should wear whilst gardening. It is very important that you dress to suit the environment that you will be working in. At times this may mean you will need to wear trousers and a long sleeved top especially if you want to avoid being stung or bitten by some insect. If living in a warm climate (Spain, Italy etc) you want to avoid being bitten by mosquitoes as this could result in potential health problems at certain times of the year. You should also consider wearing a good quality pair of gardening gloves to protect your hands and you should always be mindful of what you are actually reaching for, this is especially true in grassy areas where you will find visibility is diminished. Do not forget to be careful when working in densely populated areas of weeds, shrubbery or just where the garden is overgrown such areas could easily hid snakes, spiders or any other potential aggressor.

Whenever possible you should try doing your gardening either early in the morning or late in the evening. During the afternoon hours you will find it is the hottest period of the day and this is when the sun is at its zenith and produces the most power, which can leave you open to getting heat exhaustion or any number of heat related illnesses. So by deciding to garden during the coolest parts of a day and making sure that you drink plenty of fluids you will find yourself better equipped to your project finished easily and hopefully without any delays.

As well as the issues considered above, when deciding whether or not to do a project in the garden will depend largely on what sort of project and the amount of knowledge and skill you have. If you are just doing the basics, such as planting flowers or vegetable seeds, then there really should not be any problems. However, if the project you wish to undertake consists of a large amount of landscaping work, say you want to install a pond or you have decided to completely redesign the garden then you may wish to consider hiring a professional landscape gardener who can arrange for the work to be carried out without any real inconvenience to you. Wouldn't it be lovely to come home one day from a day at the office to find that garden you always wanted completed.

Allison Thompson a work from home now living in Spain and is a partner in a small real estate firm. After working in this field for a number of years she decided to set up a number of sites relating to property matters and this one is related to gardens and gardening. If you would like to know more than please visit http://www.gardening.householdfacts.info.

Patio Furniture Personalize Your Patio With Style

Writen by Amanda Taylor

Your patio is a great place to enjoy the outdoors. Whether it's a relaxing evening after a long day at work or a weekend afternoon of entertaining friends and family, your patio serves as an intricate part of spending time outdoors. To make the most of your patio, you should consider adding outdoor furniture to it. Patio furniture comes in a variety of styles and materials, making it possible for you to choose one that fits your personal decorating style. Some of the most popular types include teak patio furniture, wrought iron patio furniture, and wicker patio furniture.

Teak patio furniture looks great when it's used with just about any decorating style. It looks especially good with the rustic style, since it is usually left as a natural wood color. Teak furniture looks great on just about any wooden deck because the wood on the furniture and on the deck compliment each other.

If your style is more traditional, wrought iron patio furniture would be a great choice. Wrought iron furniture has a lot of shapes and curves to it, making it look elaborate and elegant for the English traditional style of décor. Wrought iron can also go well with other decorating styles since its slender, simple lines make it look plain enough to blend in with almost any outdoor setting.

Wicker patio furniture has been used extensively to compliment many outdoor areas. Beach houses often use wicker furniture for porches and sunrooms. Since it is lightweight, it's great for an area where you want to be able to move the furniture from one place to another. The woven, braided look that wicker patio furniture has makes it a very noticeable feature of a patio.

Patio furniture can provide you with a comfortable place to enjoy your outdoor area. With all the choices available in patio furniture, there is sure to be one that will fit your decorating style perfectly.

If you've enjoyed this article and would like more free information on Patio Furniture, visit the ultimate online guide for patio furniture at www.patio-furniture-depot.com

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Some Thoughts On Planting Roses

Writen by Marie Fisher

Although all kinds of gardening is my passion in life, nothing but nothing gives me greater pleasure than my beautiful rose garden. They are just so stunning, and I do really love the colors and the amazing varieties which are available.

To get the best from your rose garden however there are quite a few important pointers to bear in mind, and I would like to share some of these with you.

When the spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses have actually been a cherished aphrodisiac since Biblical times, and have been around for over 3000 years. Despite this, they still hold a particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they look and smell fantastic.

One of the most important rules of growing roses, is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day. It is also advisable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush, because many of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it's growth.

If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1-1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it.

When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, do make sure that you consider the growth characteristics of the rose in question.

To give you an example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them unrestricted growth, and greatly increases the potential for some superb looking blooms. Roses also look really beautiful in island beds mixed in with perennials, and miniature roses make great edging plants in front of the taller varieties.

If you plant them singly, shrub roses can make excellent specimen plants, or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage the unsightly parts of your garden.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass, and loosen the bottom of the hole. I suggest that you should also add some bone meal which is a slow acting source of phosphorus.

This leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.

The plant should then be placed in the hole very carefully and the hole refilled with soil, making sure that the roots are properly covered. Water the rose plant well, and let it absorb the water before applying the final covering of soil. When this has been completed, water the plant some more and create a mound of soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted.

Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves start to open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth, which varies considerably according to the climate you live in. If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with other people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level. The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature.

Where temperatures don't drop below -10 degrees F in either fall or spring, planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures drop below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferable. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.

The spacing of the rose plant is also highly influenced by the temperature.

In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow so large as when in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1-1/2 to 3 feet apart, but large vigorous growers such as hybrid perpetuals will need 3 to 5 feet of space, while the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthily if proper care is taken, but the gardener must be prepared to endure that cold and probably wet experience. In colder areas, roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th or thereabouts.

These few pointers will help to ensure that your roses grow well, and bloom nicely all summer long.

I would also like to share with you a few important additional thoughts on how you can avoid the diseases which can attack your roses.

To make sure that your most prized roses are in the pink or even red of their health, simply follow these tips on dealing with the most common rose health problems.

Black Spots On Leaves.

This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on the leaves, and they cause them to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays can be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.

Stunted Or Malformed Young Canes.

Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It also makes the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this particular disease, which could totally ruin your rose garden.

Blistered Underside Of Leaves.

A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring it will attack the new sprouts, and this disease can even survive the winter. What you should do is to collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall, and also spraying Benomyl and Funginex every 7-10 days will help.

Malformed Or Stunted Leaves And Flowers

The one most likely cause of this is the presence of spider mites. These are tiny yellow red or green spiders which cling to the underside of the leaves. They will suck the juices from the leaves, but the application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.

Weak And Mottled Leaves Showing Tiny White Webs Underneath.

This might be caused by aphids, which are small soft-bodied insects, usually brown, green, or red. Often found clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. However Malathion or Diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.

Flowers That Do Not Open Or Are Deformed When They Do Open.

Thrips could be the reason behind this deformation and unopened flowers, and it is characterized with slender brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings, which thrive in the flower buds. These will also suck the juices from the flower buds, so therefore you should cut and discard all infested flowers.

Using Orthene and Malathion will help to treat this health problem with your roses.

I do hope that this information regarding those diseases that your roses can fall prone to, have will prove to be very helpful in making your rose gardening more rewarding and fruitful.

About the Author

Marie K Fisher is an avid gardening enthusiast with a passion for exotic flowers and wonderful colors. She is a regular contributor to Garden Center Showplace a leading online Garden Center. For more details of the superb range of products offered, and also more Featured Articles and Tips on Gardening, visit http://www.gardencentershowplace.com.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Patio Design Expanding Your Home Outdoors

Writen by Nicholas Webb

A patio can be just like another room in your house. Effective patio design can mean that your increase the floor space of your home, by adding an outside room that allows you to entertain like never before. A patio can just be a rectangular slab of concrete with some plastic chairs and griller, but it can also be so much more.

 

 

What comes to mind when you think of a patio?

 

 

Patio design gives you the opportunity to create an outside living area – an extension of your home – for entertaining and relaxing all year round. For instance, people who like to entertain may want to consider a patio with an undercover kitchen and dining area. By adding a barbecue grill, a built in fridge and some quality outdoor furniture, the patio can, in itself, become a feature of your home.

 

 

When commencing a new patio design, it is important to remember that your new outdoor entertaining area does not need to be expensive. There are a variety of different patio surfaces to fit a particular style or budget, including concrete pavers, natural clay stones and bricks. There is no need to stick to one type of paving or surface - experiment. Pebbles, gravels, bricks and tiles, can all be incorporated. A contrasting brick edge can also be effective. Similarly, patio shades need not be extensive, just enough to cover the main cooking and eating areas; after all, why block out the view of your gorgeous garden in the midday sun or the stars in the sky on a clear night.

 

 

Consider textures, colors, and materials before starting

 

 

One of the most important considerations of patio design is landscaping. Plants help to soften the hard surface of a patio floor by providing color, texture and fragrance and they set the mood for an outdoor living space. Further, you might also like to consider the use of a water feature and some soft low voltage lighting or candles, to create a stunning patio setting for night time entertaining.

 

 

Finally, selecting the right furniture is the key to the perfect patio design. There is no need to spend thousands of dollars on the right setting; more importantly you want to select items that are durable, basic in color and rich in style and sophistication. Consider resin coated wicker or rattan pieces that can be dressed up with different cushions and throw rugs. These items can be changed regularly to cater for a themed party or more simply, to match the changes in your flourishing flower beds.

 

 

A patio design can be as elaborate or as straightforward as you want it to be. Patios can be arranged in any shape and size and can be refreshed regularly just like the interior of your home. Outdoor entertaining is an increasing pastime – enjoy it with family and friends!

Nicholas webb is the owner of  http://www.allabout-patio.com A site that providing user-friendly patio furniture and patio accessories consumer tips and buying advice for the outdoor lover. Check it out before parting with your money.

 

Sunday, July 6, 2008

How Do Different Types Of Fertilizers Affect Your Lawn Grasses

Writen by Jack Greenwood

There are four major types of lawn fertilizers available in the market today. They are granular, liquid, synthetic and organic. Let's take a quick look at each of them.

The most popular type of lawn fertilizer is the granular type as it is easy to use and last longer. There are two forms: quick release and slow release. A slow release form will provide fertilization over two to six months. The advantage is that there is no need to apply fertilizers for the next few months. The downside is that the result will take a longer time to show. On the other hand, the quick release form will show result in a shorter period of time but it is necessary to apply them on a more frequent basis. Quick release form tends to work better in cold weather and thus is the preferred choice during winter seasons.

Liquid fertilizers usually come in concentrated form and are applied by attaching a hose and nozzle to a spray bottle. This method of fertilizing the lawn is easy and required less effort. Being in liquid form also means that the nutrients are absorbed by the grass roots almost immediately. In addition to fertilizers, herbicides can also be added during this treatment. You can see the result in a very short time using this method. The downside to this method is that frequent application is necessary due to quick absorption of the nutrients.

Synthetic fertilizers are not natural fertilizers as they are chemically engineered. This type of fertilizers offers immediate release of nutrients that penetrate the soil very quickly. The application of this type of fertilizers needs to be repeated often as the result doesn't last long. They can also damage the lawn if not applied in the correct manner.

For totally natural fertilizers, try organic fertilizers. They are made from once living organisms and their by-products. These types of fertilizers are applied to the lawn by spreaders, rakes or even hands. Due to its organic nature, the nutrients are released slowly. The nitrogen level in this type of soil also tends to be higher.

There are many factors to consider when choosing the type of fertilizers. They include the condition of your lawn, the amount of effort you are willing to put in, the climate, cost as well as your personal preference. No matter which type of fertilizers, you choose you can be sure that your lawn will be strong and green as you consistently fertilize it.

Jack Greenwood is the webmaster of GreenLawnCareTips.com where he provides more information on lawn care and fertilizing tips. Sign up for a free 7-part lawn care mini course at this site today!

Beautiful Hoodia Plants

Writen by Patsy Hamilton

Gordonii is often misspelled. Sometimes you will see hoodia gordonil or hoodia gordini. These are not listed among the species protected by the governments of southern Africa, so one must assume that they are misspellings of gordonii.

Hoodia plants are succulents, not cacti, but most people think of them as cacti. A cactus is a type of succulent, just a different family of plants. Hoodia gordonii, sometimes spelled hoodia gordonil or gordini, is one of the hoodia plants found in southern Africa. It is often found growing in the sands of the Kalahari Desert, but sometimes appears in dry stony areas, growing under or near other dessert plants and bushes.

While all species of hoodia plants are protected by the governments of southern Africa. Some species are endangered. The hoodia officinalis delaetiana, for example, is only found in areas of Namibia and is rare and endangered. Hoodia gordonii (hoodia gordonil) is found in South Africa and Namibia and is not threatened with extinction at this time, but the governments feel that it may become threatened due to over harvesting. Hoodia gordonil has become and increasingly popular ingredient for appetite suppressants. The other hoodia plants are not believed to have any appetite suppressing effects, but their appearance is similar. So, the governments are concerned that the wrong hoodia plants will be harvested and sold. Because of this, trade regulations for all hoodia plants have been established and permitting is required to grow, sell or export hoodia gordonil or any other species.

Some reporters have referred to the plants as ugly, but the blooms can be quite beautiful and horticulturists have long been interested in cultivating the plants. Various species of hoodia plants can be found in green houses and herbariums. Though lovely the blooms have a very strong spell. The smell of the hoodia gordonil blooms have been likened to that of rotting meat. The blooms vary in color from pale pink to dark maroon or light purple. The blooms of other hoodia plants vary in size, shape and color. The hoodia alstonii bloom, for instance, is shaped like a five pointed star and is bright yellow. The hoodia officinalis delaetiana has a star shaped bloom as well, but it is much larger and light brown in color. Chris Moore has a large collection of plants at his home in South East London, including four different species of hoodia plants (no hoodia gordonil, if this is your plant of interest). His collection includes the rare and endangered hoodia officinalis. An exhibition of his collection can be viewed by visiting his website at http://homepage.ntlworld.com/chris.moore30444.

Whether spelled correctly (hoodia gordonii) or incorrectly (hoodia gordonil), interest in the many species of hoodia plants is sure to grow as news of the natural appetite suppressant spreads throughout the world.

For more information about hoodia gordonil or hoodia plants, visit the Hoodia Info Blog.

Patsy Hamilton is an editor of the Hoodia Info Blog.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Red Rose History

Writen by Damian Sofsian

Evidence suggests that the red rose is nearly 35 million years old. The most commonly available roses belong to two broad categories: the Oriental species and their hybrids, and the European or Mediterranean species and their hybrids. It is possible to grow a red rose anywhere in the world, if the species to which it belongs is selected according to climatic conditions.

Not surprisingly, therefore, ancient civilizations such as those of the Egyptians, the Greeks and the Romans seemed to have given the red rose a place of pride. Rose fossils have been found near ancient Egyptian tombs. Greek mythology is replete with references to the red rose being sacred to Bacchus, the Greek god of wine, and Venus, the Greek goddess of love. Cupid, of course, is inextricably linked to the red rose.

The Romans seem to have been rather preoccupied with the red rose. Their preoccupation was not just the result of their appreciation for its beauty and fragrance. They had discovered the medicinal properties of the red rose, and also found ways of capturing its fragrance in perfumes. In fact, there is evidence which suggests that they experimented with cultivation techniques and found ways to make red roses blossom beyond their natural peripheries.

The beauty of the red rose has always driven rose lovers to find ways and means of collecting them, displaying them and growing them. French Empress Josephine, particularly after her divorce with Emperor Napoleon, took to roses and dedicated a large space and resources to the cultivation and hybridization of roses. The palace of Malmaison became home to rose gardens with old and new species. Among these, the red rose received plenty of attention.

The red rose also has an interesting place in the history of England. Opposing factions in York and Lancaster fought for control over England in the 15th century. York was synonymous with the white rose and Lancaster with the red rose. In fact, the friction between these warring factions led to the coining of the term 'War of the Roses'. Lancaster emerged victorious, but this victory did not spell defeat for York. Tudor Henry VII and his bride from York facilitated the symbolic union of red rose and the white rose, and gave England 'the Rose of England'.

Whether it's red roses in England, or in any other part of the world, botanists credit China with the 'ever-blooming' variety. In the late 18th century, botanists succeeded in bringing these to Europe, and then the rest of the world. Today, including hybrids, there are over 150 species of roses. Several of these are red. There are different shades of red roses available today, and they are of different sizes.

Red Roses provides detailed information about red roses, red rose bouquets, long stem red roses, red rose petals and more. Red Roses is the sister site of Send Easter Flowers.

A Few Of My Favorite Backyard Birding Tips

Writen by Ronald Patterson

We feed and care for wild birds for several reasons. It could be as simple as giving something back to nature. You may enjoy the sights and sounds of birds or discovered that backyard birding is good for your health by relaxing you and lowering blood pressure. If you are like me, backyard birding is a passion. Yes, I love birds. I enjoy the sights and sounds. They bring my yard to life. Birds are entertaining, educational, and good for the environments surrounding us.

I've been feeding and caring for backyard birds for more then 40 years. I've learned a few things along the way and write about and share backyard birding tips. Here are some easy and practical tips to assist you in enjoying your birds more.

If I could have but one feeder, I would choose a well built Hopper feeder. A feeder that is practical and functional. It must be easy to clean and fill with plenty of drainage holes. My feeder must be large enough to encourage and attract the birds I want. Hoppers allow a greater variety of birds to feed.

My one choice of food would be black oil sunflower seed. Oilers are preferred by the largest variety of birds (even some nuisance birds). Oilers have an oil content up to 49% making them a high source of protein and energy for my feathered friends. A HUGE BONUS about sunflower seeds............... European starlings can't crack and eat them. That's correct, starlings don't have the ability to crack a sunflower seed and leave my feeder alone.

To prevent seeds from growing everywhere and to minimize the ever present chipmunk surprise from popping up here and there I will microwave my birdseed about a minute per pound. Steam cooked so the value remains. Another option is to place window screening under my feeders to minimize the mess. I can pick it up and shake it off at my leisure with no shell pile or germinating seeds.

Clean fresh water is a must and will attract birds faster then setting the table for them. Water sources can be a pond, bird creek, drippers, misters and of course the birdbath. Baths should be no deeper then 2" and have a course surface to assist in sure footing. Shiny glazes are slippery and all to often, an unsuspecting fledgling will slip and drown.

All of those fancy designs on the bottom of some birdbaths are magnets for dirt and algae. Yes, all the crud finds its way to the cracks and in between stones etc. Now your job becomes a bit more difficult to keep it clean and all to often we will ignore the through scrub down.

Water and food sources need to be in the open without under growth yet within 10 to 15 feet of protection.

What is backyard birding without protection and habitat? I could have the best food and best water sources however, without protection and habitats few birds will show and my kind deeds will be ignored.

By planting for birds and wildlife I encourage avian life into my world. Birds now hang around and nest in my habitats. My little world is filled with color and music everyday of the year I relax more. I am entertained and educated at the same time. Life is good!

Ronald Patterson has a passion for wildbirds. He's been feeding and caring for birds for more then 40 years. Ron is a "Wildlife Habitat Naturalist" and "Michigan Certified Nurseryman." He also lectures and writes about birds and other wildlife. His expertise and knowledge on birds, habitats, and plants makes him the ideal person to help you learn to garden for birds. Ron Patterson's writes a weekly newslettere called "Backyard Birding Tips." You can sign up today and have Ron give you friendly and often humorous advise on Attractting, feeding and caring for wildlife. Go to: http://www.backyardbirdingtips.com/

Sign up for Ron Patterson's newsletter today and start learning from one of America's backyard birding experts.

http://www.backyardbirdingtips.com/

Friday, July 4, 2008

Types Of Palm Trees

Writen by Kevin Stith

There are more than 2,500 species of palm trees in different parts of the world and most are available in the United States. Some of the most common species found in Florida and California include the Florida Royal Palm, coconut palms and the Canary Island Date Palm.

According to the structure of the leaves, palms are classified as palmate or fan shaped, pinnate or feather shaped and bipinnate. The only palm under bipinnate is the fish tail palm that carries the Caryota genus. Yet another classification of palms is named for their ability to survive extreme weather conditions like cold and drought. Cold hardy palm trees can withstand very cold winters and are the most common type of palms found in America. The drought hardy palm can survive on very small amounts of water.

In America, palm trees come in two different varieties -- Southern Palms and Northern Palms. The northern palms are cold hardy and can withstand extreme winter temperatures. The Pakistan Palm, Needle Palm, Saw Palmetto and the Windmill Palm are examples of cold hardy palms. They can be grown in minus temperatures but need adequate cold protection. The southern palms are found in southern parts of the United States and in coastal regions. They thrive well in saline soils and are best replanted during summers. The Cabbage Palm reaches an average height of 40-50 feet and is found in North America and South America. It is a flexible and adaptable outdoor variety that requires large quantities of water immediately after transplantation.

The Fish Tail Palm is native to southern Florida and southern California and thrives well in almost all varieties of sun and shade conditions. They do require fertile soils and reach an average height of 15-25 feet and an average width of 3 to 4.5 meters. To reach their average height of 60 feet, the Canary Island Date Palms need plenty of sunlight and survive well in well-drained, moist soils. They are native to Central Florida, Southern Louisiana and Texas and coastal California. The Florida Royal Palm leaves average around 36 inches and grow as tall as 50-80 feet. They require acidic soils and good sunshine and grow fast in well-fertilized soils.

Palm Trees provides detailed information on Palm Trees, Artificial Palm Trees, Silk Palm Trees, Types Of Palm Trees and more. Palm Trees is affiliated with Christmas Trees.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Northern Encore Tree Rose

Writen by Alan Summers

Finally a Winter-Hardy Tree Rose for the Northern Gardener Tree roses are amongst the most dramatic plants that one can add to his or her garden. In the South, they are used often to line walkways, in containers on patios or as an accent. Unfortunately, Northern gardeners have been unable to enjoy these beautiful roses for more than one year as they are not reliably cold hardy, without a lot of fussing - that is until now. This spring, Bailey Nurseries of Minnesota (developers of the Hydrangea Endless Summer) is introducing the first ever truly winter-hardy tree rose - 'Northern Encore.'

'Northern Encore' has been developed by Bailey Nurseries' award-winning, rose-breeding program especially for the northern gardener. It is tough, dependable and tip-hardy, even in zone 4 - a true low-maintenance tree rose. Unlike other tree roses which are actually 2 or 3 different roses grafted or budded together (the root, the stem and the top), 'Northern Encore' is the same hardy rose plant from top to bottom.

'Northern Encore' has soft pink single 2 inch blooms combined with highly disease-resistant, light green foliage. The whole effect gives the impression of fresh apple blossoms. Blooms come in clusters continually from late spring through autumn. 'Northern Encore' will mature at 5-6 feet tall, possibly more, but is easily pruned to the desired height. Your tree rose will work well as a vertical accent or planted in the landscape surrounded by low-growing perennials or bedding plants - or in a large container on a deck or patio.

Planting and Care

  • For best results, plant in spring.
  • Performs best in an area with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil.
  • Fertilize monthly with Rose-Tone from mid-March through mid-August.
  • Performs well in zones 4-7.

Click here to view 'Northern Encore' on the Carroll Gardens website.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Flower Power

Writen by Lara Velez

Ah...Spring. After months of cold weather, of course you think of flowers when spring arrives. I will cover many different angles of the beautiful flowers of Spring, including; edible flowers, toxic flowers, flower recipes, tips on how to care for them, and rose colors...what do they say? Come...join me...

The Best Flowers for Spring

Please note: Not all of the flowers in this article are edible. Please see the list below for which flowers are edible and which ones are poisonous.

Tulips - (from genus "Tulipa") From the Turkish for turban, after its rounded form. They are originally from the Middle East and are available November to May (January to April for British tulips).

Tulip Care Tips: Tulips continue to grow in water and will curve towards the light. Make allowances for this when putting them in a vase or wrap the stems tightly in newspaper and stand them in water directly beneath a light for a few hours.

Dill - The botanical name is Anethem graveolens. Graveolens means having a strong scent. Dill is available from spring to autumn. It is a cousin of the humble carrot. Dill has a pungent and tangy flavor. It is best used with breads, fish, cheese, salads, and vegetables - especially cucumbers.

Dill Care Tips: Part sun part shade, keep damp, but not over-wet.

Lily of the Valley - (from genus "Convallaria", full name "Convallaria majalis") It was first cultivated in1420. It is mostly available in the months of April and May. The Lily of the Valley signifies a "return to happiness". It is also frequently used in bridal arrangements for their sweet perfume. Traditionally associated with May 1st, especially in France where the "muguet" is handed out at special events.

Lily of the Valley Care Tips: Must not be left out of water too long. Keep cool and shaded.

Sweet Pea - Botanical name is Lathyrus odoratus - odoratus means scented. They originated in Italy and are available March to November. Sweet peas mean "delicate pleasures".

Sweet Pea Care Tips: Keep cool, always in water, and away from ripening fruit. Commercial sweet peas are treated after cutting to prolong their life; garden-cut ones may only last one or two days but florists' peas can last over a week.

Roses - (from genus "Rosaceae") Botanical name Rosa - It is originally from China and is now cultivated from America to Africa and from Eastern Europe to the Far East. It is available all year round and probably the best known and best-loved flower in the world.

Rose Care Tips: Limp roses can be revived by standing up to their necks in lukewarm water in a cool room. Do not bash the stems as this prevents them taking up water effectively.

Speaking of roses, the next time you buy them for someone special, make sure that you pick the right color for the person or occasion.

ROSE COLOR MEANINGS:

Red: love, respect, and devotion

Deep Pink: gratitude, appreciation, and thank you

Light Pink: admiration, respect, sympathy, and regard

White: reverence, humility

Yellow: joy, gladness, friendship, and social

Orange: enthusiasm, desire

Red and Yellow: gaiety, joviality, fun-loving, humorous

What about eating flowers? Well there are some you can and some you need to steer clear of!

POISONOUS FLOWERS:

DO NOT EAT: Lily-of-the-Valley, Bleeding Heart, Buttercup, Iris, Calla Lily, Narcissus or Daffodil, Lupine, Petunia, Sweet Pea, Monkshood, Periwinkle, Rhododendron and Azalea, Oleander, Delphinium, Clematis, Foxglove, Hellebore, Wisteria, Crocus, Poinsettias, Mistletoe, Nightshade, and African Violet...just to name a few.

EDIBLE SPRING FLOWERS:

APPLE - May - Slightly floral, sour

CHERVIL – May/June – parsley-like with a hint of tarragon, citrus

CHIVE – May/June – onion, strong

CORIANDER – June/Frost - like leaf, but more fragrant

ENGLISH DAISY - April/Sept – mild

DANDELION - May/July - like leaves, bitter

DILL - June/Frost - like leaves, but stronger

ELDERBERRY - May/June - floral, mild

GRAPE HYACINTH - April/May - grapey, bitter after-taste, slight sour

HONEYSUCKLE - May/July - honey sweet, perfumed

LILAC - April/May - perfumed, slightly bitter

MUSTARD - April/May - hot, mustard

GARDEN PEA - May/June - raw peas

PLUM - April/May - mild, like flower nectar

ROSE - May/Sept - perfume, sweet to bitter

GARDEN SAGE - May/July - flowery sage, slightly musky

SCENTED GERANIUM - throughout year - varies, slightly sour or bitter

SWEET WOODRUFF - May - sweet, grassy, vanilla

TULIP - April/May - slightly bitter or sweet

VIOLET (PANSY) - April/July - Mild, leafy green, some varieties sweet

If you plan on entertaining this spring...you may want to make a beautiful flower ice bowl for presentation of one of your cold dishes or use it as a centerpiece.

FLOWER ICE BOWL CENTER PIECE:

You will need:
assorted spring flowers...or just one kind
greenery (optional)
water
masking tape
2 glass bowls with a size difference of 2 inches

Place a few of your flowers on the bottom of the larger bowl. Place the smaller bowl in the larger bowl, on top of the flowers. Fill the space between the bowls, slowly, with water. Using a skewer to push them down into the water, add the rest of your flowers in the space around the bowl. Secure the smaller bowl in the larger bowl using the masking tape. Wrap the tape tightly across the top of the bowls, making sure that the smaller bowl is centered. Freeze at least 4 hours, or overnight. Remove from freezer and let stand for 5 minutes. Gently pull smaller bowl and remove your ice bowl from larger bowl. Put it in the freezer until you are ready to use it.

You can use these ice bowls to serve; salad, custards, fruit, sherbert, or you may fill it with fresh flowers and use it as a centerpiece.

This is also great for other seasons. Just change the type of flower and greenery to fit the season!

Copyright © Lara Velez

This article is free for reprint, ONLY if you keep the author box in tact, all links active, and do not change ANY part of this article.

About the Author: Lara Velez is a Homeschooling WAHM. She lives in the Sunshine State with her lovely daughters and husband. She is a published author, web publisher, web designer, and editor. She owns two successful websites, Moms of Faith: http://www.momsoffaith.com and, Home Business Resource Directory: http://www.homebusinessresourcedirectory.com She also owns her own business: http://www.mymonavie.com/HlthyLiving/mystory.asp

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Why Cotoneaster Makes A Good Bonsai Candidate

Writen by Patrick Desnoyers

One of the popular broadleaf species for bonsai is the cotoneaster. This specie is praised for it's small leaves, fruits and ramification which makes it a mame candidate. These preferred characteristics can also be accentuated by choosing a species of cotoneaster.

The cotoneaster multi-florus is by it's name liked for having many flowers, from white to pink, but it is producing larger leaves then other cotoneaster.

The cotoneaster microphyllus, by it's common name small leave cotoneaster, this one shows incredibly small leaves, which makes it the perfect tree for really small bonsai.

The most preferred bonsai candidate of cotoneaster is the cotoneaster horizontalis or commonly called rockspray cotoneaster. In all proportion this is the best choice, because it is a fast grower, small leaves, produce flowers early, and bear fruits at a young age.

Aesthetically, this one is a show stopper. In spring it displays wonderful colors with a mix of light and dark green for the foliage, white, pink and red for the flowers. As the growing season progress, leaves turn from a light green to a dark glossy green. In the meantime, the tree is preparing itself to support bright red fruit. In the colder climate, the cotoneaster loose it's leaves but keep it's fruit till early winter. The denuded tree with bright red fruit and white snow makes it a good subject for picture.

Cotoneaster can be propagated in many ways. The more common are by cuttings or by seeds. Growing a cotoneaster bonsai from seeds is easy compare to other species, because it is a fast growing tree and it's ramifying itself at an early age. I prefer to grow from seeds rather then cuttings, because in a growing season, a sprouted seeds can attain the same girth as a cutting. Germinating a cotoneaster seeds can be tricky.

Fortunately, the most common used cotoneaster as bonsai, are producing seeds that necessitate boiling water to scarify the seeds, before germination, compare to some cotoneaster species that requires an acidic treatment to remove the protective coating. In nature, this treatment is accomplished in the stomach of the fruit eating animal that ingested a cotoneaster berrie.

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

Types Of Orchids

Writen by Lee Dobbins

There are over 25,000 types of orchids and, in fact the Orchidaceae family is the most numerous in the plant world! These beautiful plants have been around for over 100 million years and plants can range from microscopic to reaching several feet in height. The flowers have a distinctive look with 3 inner petals surrounded by 3 outer petals and a cupped petal that is distinct from the others. Some orchids even resemble other creatures like bees, moths and lizards!

Although we think of orchids as a tropical flower they can actually grow in almost any climate. They can grow on the ground or on trees and even rocks. Orchids are classified depending on their water requirements. Paphiopedilum, Cymbidium and Odontoglossum need a moist environment all year long. Cattelya, Oncidium and Dendrobium only need water when they are actively growing and the vanda Ascocend doesn't really need water at all.

Cymbidium orchids are some of the most popular having 40 species and thousands of hybrids. These are one of the oldest cultivated orchids and can grow on the ground, on trees or on rocks. They can be found growing naturally in Japan, China, South East Asia and Australia. These are one of the easiest orchids for beginners and will flower every year if cared for properly.

Perhaps the most exotic of all orchids is the Cattleya which hails from South America. These are the orchids most typically chosen for corsages, however they have been over collected and many of these types of orchids are now endangered.

The Denrobiums are the second largest orchid genus and have over a thousand species. These flowers can be found in Northern India, South East Asia, Australia and Polynesia. They typically grow near the equator in tropical conditions, although some grow in climates with dry winters. While these are easy to grow, it is rather difficult to get them to bloom regularly.

Phalaenopsis orchids have long lasting flower and are rather easy to grow. These flowers are favorites at weddings and can be colorful in pinks, yellows and stripes. These are native to the Philippines and are quickly becoming a popular house plant.

Vanda orchids are another plant that is rather easy to grow. These plants produce flowers in vibrant colors such as blue, red, yeloow and orange. Flower spikes can have as much as 10 blooms that last for several weeks.

Orchids are a bit finicky to grow but these delicate plants will reward you with a soothing fragrance and beautiful distinct flowers. When growing orchids in your home, you need to remember to give them enough light, enough water and proper temperatures and fertilization. Orchids will need to be repotted every 2 or 3 years.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://orchids.garden-corner.com where you can learn more about caring for orchids